Use post 33 for tips and ideas. Plywood is stiff so probably only need a brace from tip of divider plate to back wall. Maybe tip to bottom wall. Also top narrow channel to top wall.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...lsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-4.html#post3565605
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...lsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-4.html#post3565605
Use a coaxial or add a K-tube tweeter or add an external dome tweet at top. K tube or coax will have best matched dispersion similar to K-aperture.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/279043-daytonator-pa130-8x.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/279043-daytonator-pa130-8x.html
Use a coaxial or add a K-tube tweeter or add an external dome tweet at top. K tube or coax will have best matched dispersion similar to K-aperture.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/279043-daytonator-pa130-8x.html
A k tweeter? What about a ribbon in the panel above the woofer? Or on the same panel? That photo has coaxial i see, did you test both yourself ? What size is this it looks decent to be portable but i have nothing much to scale except the board on top (amp?). If i go "semi-solid" (portable in size but still need to be wall plugged) id stick a krk plate at the back. Would that affect sound you think?
I see. I thought they were accomplish this by "counter" vibrating. Then it would very easy to stick a tweeter on the panel above the woofer or the one at the back still inside. Facing the back of the speaker moving the impedance down to get louder (from 8 to 6 for example - these are potato numbers). I like the ribbon idea but i still dont know what you call a k tube tweeter... do you mean pre amplified with a k lamp?
IG's old "K5"
So i guess you removed the front panels there to show i can put something in the three holes abovs the displayed driver right? You mounted a small panel above the fin leaving some space correct?
that is IG's old K5 - I think he used a small dome tweeter to drive the K-tube.
its frequency response was not as good as the Karlsonator type. The three holes are the vent. It probably tuned around 100Hz.
The first speaker made this way was John Karlson's "X15" which debuted in 1965. It had a 3" cone drive wooden asymmetric projector that was changed to a slotted pipe around 1966 and a CTS 15" woofer made for organ & bass guitar use.
A K-tube on top works well - even for very tall K-coupler. That could be made sturdy enough for portable applications with schedule 40 pvc and a plywood mount.
its frequency response was not as good as the Karlsonator type. The three holes are the vent. It probably tuned around 100Hz.
The first speaker made this way was John Karlson's "X15" which debuted in 1965. It had a 3" cone drive wooden asymmetric projector that was changed to a slotted pipe around 1966 and a CTS 15" woofer made for organ & bass guitar use.
A K-tube on top works well - even for very tall K-coupler. That could be made sturdy enough for portable applications with schedule 40 pvc and a plywood mount.
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Yes i read about the original which brought me to this design.. well more sidetracked as i originally am designing a boombox ^^ k tube i am now guessing is the port tube above the speaker? And the tweeter would go at the end of it,inside, right?
yes - the dome tweeter or compression driver would go inside the rear chamber. The tube probably should be the same diameter as the tweeter dome.
here's a K-tube shoved into the throat of a 15 inch coaxial in my 15 inch klam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mupb8X6iZ6I
here's a K-tube shoved into the throat of a 15 inch coaxial in my 15 inch klam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mupb8X6iZ6I
So the tube is kind of around the tweeter on the coaxial (hence the matching diameter) and place far enough to dont disturb the displacement of the woofer part correct?
Some K-tubes
Regarding my coax - I have a number of pairs of Eminence coaxial speaker, all with an approximate 2" x 5" high frequency horn. In that klam, I simply jammed the pipe down the horn. When converting a regular coax with the cone used as the horn, the dust screen would be removed, and the pipe beveled to get a smooth fit and decent transition. Glue the pipe.
typical 12 inch Eminence coaxial with 2.5" voice coil and 80 ounce ferrite magnet.
Faerber K-tube
Wolf von Langa K-tube with electrodynamic driver
Carl Neuser - one of his earlier 2-way 15 inch K-couplers with Klipsch K33E and ~52mm diameter tube - he how uses a bent wood curved upper reflector and perhaps one of his laminated maple veneer K-tubes which are very inert
one of my Acoustic Control 115BK Collaboration Series K-couplers topped with a custom
aluminum K-tube. 115BK is directly related to the Transylvania Power Company K-coupler
a home version of the Transylvania Power Company Karlson topped with "THE TUBE" and loaded with classic Altec drivers. This is a good size to make a K-tube for two way operation with crossovers higher than 1K2Hz. Use 1 inch inside diameter PVC or ABS pipe, make it about 5.3 inches long with a half ellipse slot based on an 11.6" major axis ellipse with a minor axis of pi* the outside diameter plus 1/8" for the starting gap
Regarding my coax - I have a number of pairs of Eminence coaxial speaker, all with an approximate 2" x 5" high frequency horn. In that klam, I simply jammed the pipe down the horn. When converting a regular coax with the cone used as the horn, the dust screen would be removed, and the pipe beveled to get a smooth fit and decent transition. Glue the pipe.
typical 12 inch Eminence coaxial with 2.5" voice coil and 80 ounce ferrite magnet.
Faerber K-tube
Wolf von Langa K-tube with electrodynamic driver
Carl Neuser - one of his earlier 2-way 15 inch K-couplers with Klipsch K33E and ~52mm diameter tube - he how uses a bent wood curved upper reflector and perhaps one of his laminated maple veneer K-tubes which are very inert
one of my Acoustic Control 115BK Collaboration Series K-couplers topped with a custom
aluminum K-tube. 115BK is directly related to the Transylvania Power Company K-coupler
a home version of the Transylvania Power Company Karlson topped with "THE TUBE" and loaded with classic Altec drivers. This is a good size to make a K-tube for two way operation with crossovers higher than 1K2Hz. Use 1 inch inside diameter PVC or ABS pipe, make it about 5.3 inches long with a half ellipse slot based on an 11.6" major axis ellipse with a minor axis of pi* the outside diameter plus 1/8" for the starting gap
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so they are tubes placed in front of the tweeter. I see most tweeters are placed on the top of the speaker rather than inside (eg the two last photos) and fo the van langa is all totally open baffle (the faerber looks super cool though) - Neuseer's look like something I would like to achieve. The upper plate is detached from the central one right? looks like a gap at the bottom. I guess it makes a difference having it on the top but it would get damaged more quickly if i want to make it portable. appreciate the info - there is always a gap between theory and practice so is great to get info from people who tested (and did so objectively most of times and not just say "this is better because i have it -or it suits more my ears")
now what about this - sorry im being painful but is difficult to know where to go when you are a noob - if i reduce that design you are talking about by half (12"/18") and shove in a 5/6" woofer (or mid woof - not a puppy anymore but not yet a real woof) with a 2" tweeter with so a tuned k-tube on the facing down panel. Would that work? Would that pack enough bass without unbalance the sound much? If is unbalanced, does a HF/LF pot would help? a soft EQ maybe?(on the source for example like a phone app or so)
it was designed around the Fostex FE166EN but the driver got destroyed in the builder's flooded basement. Its got pretty good flexibility in driver parameters to do well with the L Cao F6 whose qts is over 0.6 - maybe around 0.7 - I'll have to re-measure my F6 pair. They're way more sensitive in the midrange than an Eminence Beta10cx and somewhat more than than Eminence's Delta Pro 8a. Bowed acoustic bass sounded good with the F6 - - FE164 had a leaner sound due to lower qts and probably more subjective "snap"
Be sure to ask xrk971 what to do when picking a K-project - I think his akabak model for the Karlsonator has been pretty good and there are several scales which have worked. The dual PA130 XKi built in the XKi thread would be a neat and punchy little speaker for relatively low driver cost.
I want a new K which can reproduce a drum kit near live levels - the original Karlson K15 from 1951 can do it - - I think a good "K-10" can come close. Maybe a Karlsonator 10. I have 0.62 scale K15 and Karlsonator 12's loaded with Beta10cx and one old "K10" loaded with a Delta 10A which can probably do a good job once I make an appropriate crossover.
Be sure to ask xrk971 what to do when picking a K-project - I think his akabak model for the Karlsonator has been pretty good and there are several scales which have worked. The dual PA130 XKi built in the XKi thread would be a neat and punchy little speaker for relatively low driver cost.
I want a new K which can reproduce a drum kit near live levels - the original Karlson K15 from 1951 can do it - - I think a good "K-10" can come close. Maybe a Karlsonator 10. I have 0.62 scale K15 and Karlsonator 12's loaded with Beta10cx and one old "K10" loaded with a Delta 10A which can probably do a good job once I make an appropriate crossover.