I believe thermal issues should occur if listening at real volume than the reccording !
It could be also too slow without horn due to the huge X-max needed !
It could be also too slow without horn due to the huge X-max needed !
I don't see heat as a problem. If this is going to be the best small speaker, we can make the enclosure out of aluminium. The power requirement is only for headroom - the average power might be 30w, but 10dB peaks (kick drum, etc) would need 300w to cleanly reproduce.
Chris
A 5" driver EQ'd to 35 Hz? If you are lucky, the driver suspension is designed to quickly limit cone travel past Xmax. If you are unlucky the vc former smacks into the top/bottom plate when you apply enough power with your LT EQ...
Have you calculated the SPL that can be generated by a 5" driver at 35Hz given the driver's Xmax? I doubt it is very much... maybe that is enough for a small room at close range. Or headphones.
It would probably be rather hard to improve over this, excepting top octave response.
Oluv's Gadgets: Review: Bose Soundlink Mini II - lots of improvements and still on top?
Oluv's Gadgets: Review: Bose Soundlink Mini II - lots of improvements and still on top?
That is what i did when i designed my house.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/planet10/493-fall-listening-space.html
dave
It's been done already commercially and retails for $500. Albeit the two speaker boxes are fused together in a svelte 16 liter package. But it sounds phenomenal and digs deep - definitely 50Hz. They use a long bass reflex port.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/282896-sonos-play-5-a.html
I wanted to see if it could be DIY'd but probably not for less than $500.
PLAY:5 Wireless Speaker - The Ultimate Listening Experience | Sonos
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/282896-sonos-play-5-a.html
I wanted to see if it could be DIY'd but probably not for less than $500.
PLAY:5 Wireless Speaker - The Ultimate Listening Experience | Sonos
Yes, I know of the Sonos Play 5. I've studied the design, and it is beyond amazing, and truly deserves the "ultimate wireless speaker" name. There is no way you can DIY something better whole package wise for $500, even $1000 would be tough. It nails so many things perfectly - ruler flat response from 30Hz - 20KHz in vertical mode, DEEP (F3 at 27Hz) bass, extremely wide dispersion from the unique waveguide, flat power response, minimal acoustical lobing, plays very loud with excellent sound quality, minimal cabinet vibration, and excellent limiter.
Trivia, the Play 5 is actually sealed, and it digs down to 27Hz, and I've measured it with my own equipment outdoors.
I just wanted to see if I can make something even smaller, and even better sounding by using some ridiculously high end drivers.
I'm surprised it is sealed. Earlier versions were definitely vented. How are achieving deep bass then? Are you sure there's no passive radiator? I guess you have one?
The first gen is vented, but the second gen (current one) is sealed. I'm sure there are no passive radiators. They are putting a ridiculous amount of boost on the woofer, I'm guessing up to 20dB boost in order to get a 4'' woofer to hit 27Hz flat, backed with a sophisticated limiter to keep the woofer in check. The woofer has quite a substantial motor structure. I'm rather amazed to see not one, but 3 woofers of this quality in a speaker that costs only $500.
The SB15NRXC30 has:
--Xmax +/- 5mm which can provide 88db/1m SPL at 45Hz per pair
--Xmechanical +/- 10mm which can support 96db/1m SPL transients at 45Hz per pair
--Setting the Linkwitz transform to 35Hz produces flat SPL at 45Hz, which matches on-desk close distance usage model. ----->Headphone speakers
Charlie, you are correct that a normal 5" midrange in an equalized small sealed box is best suited for very close range listening.
Widening the front baffle to 6.5" allows using standard modest cost 6" midbass like the "Anarchy" with +/- 12mm to deliver strong bass with high watts, or SOA midbass like the Satori MW16P to deliver exceptional clarity, with modest cost construction and modest cost cabinets.
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bcodemz, your test quest shows the high sensitivity to front baffle width, and advanced thin-wall cabinet availabililty for high quality sound.
Popular monitors with 5" midrange average 7.4" front baffle width.
Bass Reflex Port used for increased efficiency even with extensive DSP + amps.
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JBL LSR305 5" Two-Way Powered Studio Monitor $149 each
Dimensions (H x W x D) (11.75 in x 7.28 in x 9.88 in)
Frequency Range 43 Hz-24 kHz
Max Peak SPL 108 dB SPL C-Weighted
rear pipe port
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Focal CMS 50 $300 each
5” mid-woofer reaches 55Hz
Frequency response (+/- 3dB) 55Hz - 28kHz
Maximum SPL 107dB SPL (peak @ 1m)
100 magazines awarded the CMS 50 best studio monitor
Dimensions with rubber feet (HxLxD) 11-3/8" x 7.-1/2" x 7-15/16"
front slot port
Bass Reflex Port used for increased efficiency even with extensive DSP + amps.
---------------------
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JBL LSR305 5" Two-Way Powered Studio Monitor $149 each
Dimensions (H x W x D) (11.75 in x 7.28 in x 9.88 in)
Frequency Range 43 Hz-24 kHz
Max Peak SPL 108 dB SPL C-Weighted
rear pipe port
======
Focal CMS 50 $300 each
5” mid-woofer reaches 55Hz
Frequency response (+/- 3dB) 55Hz - 28kHz
Maximum SPL 107dB SPL (peak @ 1m)
100 magazines awarded the CMS 50 best studio monitor
Dimensions with rubber feet (HxLxD) 11-3/8" x 7.-1/2" x 7-15/16"
front slot port
Attachments
A FAST using a small midtweeter could have a narrow front, so could fit 6" woofers on both of the side walls, while keeping to the ~7 litre volume limit.
I'd do that, using high power pro woofers (e.g. B&C neos) in a metal case.
For cooling: use heat pipes (of the type used for CPU cooling) to thermally couple the woofer motors to the case, or add an external liquid cooling system (again, repurposing high performance computer stuff), This would help their ability to take a stupid amount of power / equalisation.
I'd also listen as near field as possible, for example, mount them in an egg / hooded chair, so that the speakers are a hand span away from the listening position. That would increase effective SPL like crazy, and take the room out of the equation.
I'd do that, using high power pro woofers (e.g. B&C neos) in a metal case.
For cooling: use heat pipes (of the type used for CPU cooling) to thermally couple the woofer motors to the case, or add an external liquid cooling system (again, repurposing high performance computer stuff), This would help their ability to take a stupid amount of power / equalisation.
I'd also listen as near field as possible, for example, mount them in an egg / hooded chair, so that the speakers are a hand span away from the listening position. That would increase effective SPL like crazy, and take the room out of the equation.
Maybe the same Anarchy woof but firering towards the ceilling Like the Pluto but EQed in a monitor box with a ScanSpeak 10F at 90° just above like the famous Linkwitz stuff ?
PS: metal cabinet ? Oh no : surface vibrations Accelerator ! (= best to avoid it ! or glue foam on each pannels side outside and inside)
PS: metal cabinet ? Oh no : surface vibrations Accelerator ! (= best to avoid it ! or glue foam on each pannels side outside and inside)
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Hi,
There is nothing ultimate about a small loudspeaker, just for
sure there will be a number of inevitable trade-offs involved.
For sure the ultimate small loudspeaker so far has been
the LS3/5A, given its reputation. I heard a pair many
moons ago, and they where surprisingly good.
Bagbys Continuum is a modern update. Continuum, Pr
Shame they have removed the technical write up.
YMMV but IMO its near the best small speaker you can build.
rgds, sreten.
There is nothing ultimate about a small loudspeaker, just for
sure there will be a number of inevitable trade-offs involved.
For sure the ultimate small loudspeaker so far has been
the LS3/5A, given its reputation. I heard a pair many
moons ago, and they where surprisingly good.
Bagbys Continuum is a modern update. Continuum, Pr
Shame they have removed the technical write up.
YMMV but IMO its near the best small speaker you can build.
rgds, sreten.
Hi,
I should add for no subs involved. Satellites
for subs are a different ballgame altogether.
rgds, sreten.
I should add for no subs involved. Satellites
for subs are a different ballgame altogether.
rgds, sreten.
So if I had to take a shot at this cost no object I'd .........
Build a box 4.25" wide, 10" tall and 10" deep
I'd mount a Tang Band W-8 2022 on either side , wired in parallel dual opposed
I'd mount a single Scanspeak 10F on the front baffle offset towards the top.
The I'd mount a Dayton ND20 neo tweeter on top.
Six channels of amplification and DSP.
Very costly in an aluminum cabinet but fairly efficient and capable of significant output and extension.
.......or just build a bigger box! Lol
Build a box 4.25" wide, 10" tall and 10" deep
I'd mount a Tang Band W-8 2022 on either side , wired in parallel dual opposed
I'd mount a single Scanspeak 10F on the front baffle offset towards the top.
The I'd mount a Dayton ND20 neo tweeter on top.
Six channels of amplification and DSP.
Very costly in an aluminum cabinet but fairly efficient and capable of significant output and extension.
.......or just build a bigger box! Lol
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