Hi Soren,
I have a problem with my 1021 rev2 5% dac.
I have two of these dac cards running in bal-left and bal-right. I connect I2S directly from Odroid C1+ (which is very similar to Pi). It plays PCM 44.1 to 192 without problem. However, when I play DSD, it can't play correctly. It shows L11M in serial listening mode when I play DSD2.8 DSF file. I can hear the music with lot of white noise. Both cards behaves the same.
I was not having the same issue before with two rev2 012 cards.
I have a problem with my 1021 rev2 5% dac.
I have two of these dac cards running in bal-left and bal-right. I connect I2S directly from Odroid C1+ (which is very similar to Pi). It plays PCM 44.1 to 192 without problem. However, when I play DSD, it can't play correctly. It shows L11M in serial listening mode when I play DSD2.8 DSF file. I can hear the music with lot of white noise. Both cards behaves the same.
I was not having the same issue before with two rev2 012 cards.
I use MPD for playback, if I set DoP="yes", playing DSD2.8 will result dam shows L44. When I set dsd_native="yes", playing DSD2.8 will result L11M
Balanced dual mono questions
I just ordered a second dam1021, I intend to run it with my current one to do balanced dual mono. After staring a Spikestabber's implementation pics for a while, I think I understand how this needs to be done.
My main question, then: what's the "neatest" way to parallel connections between boards? In particular, I2S wires should in general be as short as possible. I envision short jumper wires running from the USB device to the first dam1021, then pin headers between the first and second dam1021 (i.e. the boards are "stacked" on top of each other). It's the board-to-board connection I'm not sure how to do in a neat and modular way (i.e., I'd rather not solder the two boards together).
Thanks!
I just ordered a second dam1021, I intend to run it with my current one to do balanced dual mono. After staring a Spikestabber's implementation pics for a while, I think I understand how this needs to be done.
My main question, then: what's the "neatest" way to parallel connections between boards? In particular, I2S wires should in general be as short as possible. I envision short jumper wires running from the USB device to the first dam1021, then pin headers between the first and second dam1021 (i.e. the boards are "stacked" on top of each other). It's the board-to-board connection I'm not sure how to do in a neat and modular way (i.e., I'd rather not solder the two boards together).
Thanks!
I don't know the Odroid C1+ or how it behave in DSD mode so I can't help much. I can tell that the different dam1021 versions are exactly the same on the digital audio inputs, assuming same firmware versions.
An input board with the additional balanced kit will do just that, they are still available http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/269943-input-switch-boards-soekris-dam1021-dac.html
Take a look at the documentation , and the schematics in post #332 in the GB thread. You can use that to do your own wiring even if you don't want the input board.
In my original plans I was going to use your input board, it looks great! One question, in a balanced dual mono config, are the serial interfaces for each board still available independently? I'm going to copy Spikestabber's solution and use a USB hub for the Amanero and two serial interfaces, so I can still control each board independently.
But the main reason I didn't use your input board is the added size and power requirements. I'm going to try to cram everything into a smallish case. Your board adds some length to the dam1021 which ends up being longer than my case. Plus I'd have to put another power supply in the case as well. It's going to be tight as-is with the two dam boards, two serial-to-USB boards, USB hub, regulated 12v supply for the dam boards and transformer! If I can't fit all that in there, I'll just get a new case and grab your input board while I'm at it.
But anyway, my question was specifically what kind of pin header hardware to use. I'm pretty sure I understand the logical wiring. I mean, I can fashion some "Y" jumper wires to go from the Amanero to the two dam boards. But I just thought there's got to be a neater/cleaner way to achieve the same end result. Just not sure what that is.
Well,
dimdim is one lucky fellow to be friendly with one of the GREAT FELLOWS of DIY audio!
My audio life has been enhanced by you both. Had long wondered if you had crossed paths ...
Makes me happy to hear of this.
dimdim is one lucky fellow to be friendly with one of the GREAT FELLOWS of DIY audio!
My audio life has been enhanced by you both. Had long wondered if you had crossed paths ...
Makes me happy to hear of this.
Its I wanted to listen with possible future systems my freshly revised speakers before calling the crossover design done and screwed back in the cabinets guts. The local DAC guys enthusiastically responded and soon a parade of hardware and streamer jargon happened in the house. Many thanks.
You could use 2x13 pin SMD connectors mounted on the opposite sides of a PCB, which is the approach I used for the input boards.
You could also offset the DAM boards lengthwise relative to each other and use the more common through hole 2x13 connectors mounted on the opposite sides of a PCB. Mechanical mounting on the offset DAM boards will be a bit more tricky in this case, but certainly doable.
I guess I don't fully understand how this would work. I'm thinking your input board acts as the "T" connector. So Amanero (or equivalent) to your board, then your board does the "T"/parallelization to each dam1021. Could be I'm just not understanding how your board works!
Assuming I'm not completely off, I can't figure out what serves the purpose of the "T" connection without using your board.
In my mind a simple solution would be to use those typical male pin headers (like what actually ships with the dam1021). Solder on one board "face up" and solder the other board "face down". Then all I'd need is a "T" jumper wire: a jumper wire with one female connection on one end (like normal), but the other end has two female connections (i.e. looks like the letter "T"). Then I just need board spacers that are the same height as this "T" jumper.
But I haven't been able to find such a jumper wire. Wouldn't be hard to make, of course, but for a tidy-looking result I was hoping to buy such a thing pre-made.
Edit: I think all I really need are just extra-long pin headers, so they can stick out of both the top and bottom of one board. Then I can use jumpers to the Amanero on top, and maybe put female sockets on the bottom board and just plug in directly...
Another question, while I'm at it: hardware volume control will need a stereo pot, right? I.e. a dual (matched) pot, one for each board? Or can I parallel the volume control and use one pot?
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I'm quite interested to know the other options of having two dam1021 boards together for dual mono balanced.
I have the normunds boards..but am still working on this project. so far I have this...
tiny photo I know..but i'm still waiting for my simon tuned o-core trafo's, and my chassis. Patience Patience...also psu's from OPC. the Lt3042's...my amp of choice also is OPC's bal bal and se se....which I HOPE someone on here has used the BAL BAL and SE SE with their soekris dam1021.... I would love to hear how they did it and how well it sounds. 😀 I'm receiving the rest of my parts next week sometime!
In my mind it would of been cool to see two dam1021's side by side in dual formation, but I understand normunds design as it's practical this way. keeps connections short. Albeit I would love to see it layed out like a Wavedream or MSB dac. In all it's glory of the discrete resistors.
I need a BIG chassis to do this...but it's on my bucket list to figure it out.
I have the normunds boards..but am still working on this project. so far I have this...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
tiny photo I know..but i'm still waiting for my simon tuned o-core trafo's, and my chassis. Patience Patience...also psu's from OPC. the Lt3042's...my amp of choice also is OPC's bal bal and se se....which I HOPE someone on here has used the BAL BAL and SE SE with their soekris dam1021.... I would love to hear how they did it and how well it sounds. 😀 I'm receiving the rest of my parts next week sometime!
In my mind it would of been cool to see two dam1021's side by side in dual formation, but I understand normunds design as it's practical this way. keeps connections short. Albeit I would love to see it layed out like a Wavedream or MSB dac. In all it's glory of the discrete resistors.
I need a BIG chassis to do this...but it's on my bucket list to figure it out.
says the 1121's will be released in March... but that's not happening. Can we get an idea of when they will be available? I'm happy to pre-order two of them... very minimum at least one if they are limited. the .02% is fine, but .01% would be great!
Indeed, I do count myself lucky to have met Salas in person.
In person he is the nice and wise person you would expect him to be, (perhaps even nicer and wiser).
Plus he has a killer sound system - he is being too modest. Especially his newly revamped speakers. A truly "monitor" sound, and an excellent match to the Soekris'.
Soekris Europe*»*OEM Line - dam1121*»*OEM Line - dam1121-02
234€+tax, shipping, etc., orderable on the 20th.
I should note that the price is actually not bad. I originally compared it to what I had paid for my Rev1 0.02%. Compared to the current Rev4 0.02% the price is OK.
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I noticed the europe site had them, but wondered if the USA site will have them to ship. Otherwise shipping might be a bit expensive. 😀
Anyone know if there is any more information on the 1121's? diagrams etc? I would like to see a breakdown of the pinout's of these OEM boards. Ideally i'd love to get two of them and run them in dual mono balanced. they are much more compact! yet the best part is that they can benefit from an excellent psu with ultra low noise.
the price is fair, and if I was offered them today I would pick up two.
US will of course have them too, EU just updated their website during the weekend and will also be a little faster shipping as they don't need to cross the atlantic first....
I'm working on the manual right now, will be up in a day or two.
Sorry was very busy and haven't had time to post.
Yes, extra long pin headers are the trick. Attach them to the top board, so you have equal lengths on top and bottom which you can then plug into the board below. Parallel the I2S, SPDIF, ISO 3.3V, ISO GND, GND's and volume pins. (yes paralleling the volume is fine)
Don't parallel any of the others like the +3.3V or isolated serial ports. Use only the top board's +3.3V/1.8V to power your SPDIF toslink and Coaxial SPDIF biasing.
I like this setup as it saves a lot of space, and someday want to stack a quadrant of them for a digital crossover setup. Buffering may be required for more than 2 boards however.