Hello all,
For the last year I derived my horn sub using a Dayton SPA250. Lately the SPA died (transformer) and now I am looking for a replacement.
The horn has 2 Lab 12 driver wired in series.
I was wondering what you guys are using?
Any recommendation for a budget Amp?
thanks
For the last year I derived my horn sub using a Dayton SPA250. Lately the SPA died (transformer) and now I am looking for a replacement.
The horn has 2 Lab 12 driver wired in series.
I was wondering what you guys are using?
Any recommendation for a budget Amp?
thanks
The Behringer iNukes are getting good reviews, and the built-in DSP is very useful.
How much power do you need?
Chris
How much power do you need?
Chris
Thank you for your reply, Chris.
As for the power I need, I am not sure how to do the math.
What I do know is that my listening room is about 370 sq foot and I need to drive 2 Lab 12 drivers.
As for the power I need, I am not sure how to do the math.
What I do know is that my listening room is about 370 sq foot and I need to drive 2 Lab 12 drivers.
You could certainly use an amp capable of 400-600w/ch with the lab 12s, if you get a pro amp I'd suggest rewiring the cab to put 1 driver on each channel.
Hello,
I am using the new Crown XLS 2502 DriveCore 2 for subwoofer use in my theater. The 2502 maybe overkill for your needs and its expensive. But this one should work
Crown XLS 1502 DriveCore 2 Power Amplifier 2 x 525W at 4 Ohms. All of the amps in this series has adjustable input sensitivity, 1.4 volt or .775 volt. So you could use the LFE from a receiver without needing anything else in the signal chain. I can't comment on fan noise as of yet, I don't think that it has turned on yet.
Regards,
Matt
I am using the new Crown XLS 2502 DriveCore 2 for subwoofer use in my theater. The 2502 maybe overkill for your needs and its expensive. But this one should work
Crown XLS 1502 DriveCore 2 Power Amplifier 2 x 525W at 4 Ohms. All of the amps in this series has adjustable input sensitivity, 1.4 volt or .775 volt. So you could use the LFE from a receiver without needing anything else in the signal chain. I can't comment on fan noise as of yet, I don't think that it has turned on yet.
Regards,
Matt
I'd probably go for an NU3000DSP. You could put each driver on each channel, or wire in series and bridge, or parallel both drivers to one channel and run something else off the other. Lots of flexibility. The fans are quite loud, though.
Chris
Chris
Thank you all for your help.
Could someone shed some light on the calculation of SPL and electric power consumption?
For my horn sub, Hornresp predicts about 110db (1 w 1 m). This should be pretty loud.
In that condition how does one calculate the electric power needed?
Could someone shed some light on the calculation of SPL and electric power consumption?
For my horn sub, Hornresp predicts about 110db (1 w 1 m). This should be pretty loud.
In that condition how does one calculate the electric power needed?
370 ft^2 is a little smaller than my room and 110 dB/W/m + some room gain is pretty loud, though to hit the 115 dB/listening position THX cinema reference up around 80 Hz with a little dynamic headroom will require another 5-10 W, so using one of the [so far] recommended prosound amps for other than its DSP is incredible 'overkill', i.e. a little 20 W chip amp is all you need.
Every 3 dB is a doubling of power, so +3 dB = 2 W, +6 = 4 W, +9 = 8 W, etc., and since sound power rolls off at up to 6 dB/doubling of distance, then 2 m = drops down to as low as 104 dB, 4 m = 98 dB, etc., though a typical HIFI/HT room usually limits it to 3 dB or less.
GM
Every 3 dB is a doubling of power, so +3 dB = 2 W, +6 = 4 W, +9 = 8 W, etc., and since sound power rolls off at up to 6 dB/doubling of distance, then 2 m = drops down to as low as 104 dB, 4 m = 98 dB, etc., though a typical HIFI/HT room usually limits it to 3 dB or less.
GM
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