I'm beginning my fifth full range build, and I'm curious to hear about some of the best ways to conceal plywood edges. I've used tape, and it's okay, but the stain didn't match exactly plus it doesn't stand up to sanding. I've also mitered the edges, which worked great on a tiny box, but I doubt I can pull it off with a regular circular saw and a 6 cubic foot box. The box will be 48" tall by 19.5 deep by by 13.5 wide. It's a basic bass reflex design with a rear port. I'll be installing audio nirvana classic 10 drivers. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
The likes of Marshall round rout the edges.
Then cover it with tolex.
I cover my boxes in thin hard wearing carpet. It covers a multitude of sins !
I have just built a folded horn speaker and covered half in carpet and the horn part and rear are painted black.
Then cover it with tolex.
I cover my boxes in thin hard wearing carpet. It covers a multitude of sins !
I have just built a folded horn speaker and covered half in carpet and the horn part and rear are painted black.
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For my next build I plan on leaving the front baffle natural birch and painting or dyeing the rest of the box black. If you do rabbets then not only is the box stronger but only a half or a third of the thickness of the plywood is showing.
If not already practiced with dealing with raw birch or maple veneer's tendancy to blotchiness when staining darker colours, I'd suggest a cut plan that leaves sufficient off-cuts on which to experiment with finishing products and processes. There are some excellent stain sealers or pre-conditioners that will help even things out. Once an initial color coat has penetrated raw veneer, it's much harder to correct.
Right Chris - I usually use Zinsser sealcoat which is a dewaxed shellac. Thinning the first two coats with denatured alcohol works good for blotchy wood I've found, even pine.
Make it an all edge look, quite attractive! 😉
But I'll be honest, this big its easy to get cracks with humidity changes. But it sure was pretty.


But I'll be honest, this big its easy to get cracks with humidity changes. But it sure was pretty.

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If you use baltic birch plywood, show it off. I did this on one of my guitar amps I built. The flat areas are anigre veneer. The finish is natural Watco danish oil with Minwax finishing wax after the oil has cured.
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that's a pretty thing - have you been running it long enough to assess impact of heat on the top panel?
If you use baltic birch plywood, show it off. I did this on one of my guitar amps I built. The flat areas are anigre veneer. The finish is natural Watco danish oil with Minwax finishing wax after the oil has cured.
I agree. BB is really attractive when finished well.
that's a pretty thing - have you been running it long enough to assess impact of heat on the top panel?
Hi Chris,
Thanks. Very little heat comes from the sub-miniature military tubes. It's a 2 watt amp. So no heat issues with the cabinet.
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If you use baltic birch plywood, show it off. I did this on one of my guitar amps I built. The flat areas are anigre veneer. The finish is natural Watco danish oil with Minwax finishing wax after the oil has cured.
Gotta say that looks great! I just have it in my head that the edges need hiding, but maybe not.
Gotta say that looks great! I just have it in my head that the edges need hiding, but maybe not.
Thanks. Just remember this is baltic birch not the normal plywood found at Home Depot. Big difference. Baltic birch is usually void free between the layers.
Yeah, i was gonna say. That's some darn nice looking ply! Where did you get it and what is it called?
Yeah, i was gonna say. That's some darn nice looking ply! Where did you get it and what is it called?
Baltic Birch plywood from my local supplier (Ganahl Lumber), not Home Depot or Lowes. I got the flamed Anigre veneer from Rockler locally. I bought a bunch of it years ago for cheap.
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