I tried using lathe tools, they would just grab and stop the whimpy drill press, but the belt sander worked pretty well. That said, four parts (and one throw away part took nearly four hours, not quite "production level" speed 😉.
Might use a drawknife and spoke shave for mine. 😀 In all seriousness, I was starting to wrap my mind around this design and I am now totally lost on this plug? Is it a phase plug? Not really familiar with them. Are these used on the Danley and others or Welter Systems exclusive?
1) The plug reduces the enclosed volume in front of the cone, raising the cut off frequency of the band pass enclosure.1) I was starting to wrap my mind around this design and I am now totally lost on this plug?
2)Is it a phase plug?
3) Are these used on the Danley and others or Welter Systems exclusive?
2) No.
3) DSL uses various cut outs to achieve similar ends.
Smaller mid drivers have smaller enclosed volume in front of the cone, so have a higher cut off frequency, reducing the need to reduce the volume further, as it would make the response extend higher than desirable, the acoustical band pass is a positive feature of offset horn designs.
I thought that the mids would be desirable to have them go higher than current 1.2k or thereabouts to reduce load in CD and the upper band pass on the mids is really limitation of cancellation due to cone reflection off of the CD diaphragm.
There are flat cone woofers now that are interesting from this standpoint as they don't need a volume filler plug.
Dayton LS10-44 for example.
There are flat cone woofers now that are interesting from this standpoint as they don't need a volume filler plug.
Dayton LS10-44 for example.
FinBot,
Thanks again for drawing this up. I was hoping to but...life got in the way ;-)
Per your request on checking dimensions, I think there may be some errors on the side wall port cutouts near the throat. Reference the center image in post 58 on page 6. The height of the port is marked 3.125" and the short length closest to the throat 1". If I am using the Sketchup dimension tool correctly, the dimensions in the model are 2.875 and 0.875 respectively.
The overall length of the port is unclear as there are different dimensions for the top and bottom port as shown on the left image in post 58.
Art,
Are the top and bottom ports on the side walls the same length(depth)? One is marked 3.75 and the other 3.375.
I'll try and do more checking this weekend.
Thanks again for drawing this up. I was hoping to but...life got in the way ;-)
Per your request on checking dimensions, I think there may be some errors on the side wall port cutouts near the throat. Reference the center image in post 58 on page 6. The height of the port is marked 3.125" and the short length closest to the throat 1". If I am using the Sketchup dimension tool correctly, the dimensions in the model are 2.875 and 0.875 respectively.
The overall length of the port is unclear as there are different dimensions for the top and bottom port as shown on the left image in post 58.
Art,
Are the top and bottom ports on the side walls the same length(depth)? One is marked 3.75 and the other 3.375.
I'll try and do more checking this weekend.
They should all be 3.75" front to back, one had a typo.Art,
Are the top and bottom ports on the side walls the same length(depth)? One is marked 3.75 and the other 3.375.
Thanks for your feedback Rocksteady. It is valuable to have more eyes checking the work. (especially with my easily distracted mind!)
I believe the ports are all intended to be symetric.
While they wont be used in the saw cut plans, I can use them to make smaller templates you can print on paper or cut with a plotter....and draw on the points to drill the 1/2" and 1" holes super accurately.
OK so we are about to transfer the model to SOLIDWORKS and get my furniture maker friend expert to work out the modeling for the front horn.
Then it's on to the sawbenches!
I believe the ports are all intended to be symetric.
While they wont be used in the saw cut plans, I can use them to make smaller templates you can print on paper or cut with a plotter....and draw on the points to drill the 1/2" and 1" holes super accurately.
OK so we are about to transfer the model to SOLIDWORKS and get my furniture maker friend expert to work out the modeling for the front horn.
Then it's on to the sawbenches!
Looks great Fin, can't wait to hear them live!
Thanks again Art for giving tirelessly, your work will be powering the dance floor at many small parties around Melbourne for years to come.
Thanks again Art for giving tirelessly, your work will be powering the dance floor at many small parties around Melbourne for years to come.
Cut Plans
The model has been recreated in Solidworks 2013. The first draft of the cut plans are ready.
The model is shown in MM. There are slight deviations in the translation but it measures up to less than 1% overall.
We are going to work on the secondary horn a little later when we work out the safest and most accurate way to do the steep angled cuts.
Take a peek!
The model has been recreated in Solidworks 2013. The first draft of the cut plans are ready.
The model is shown in MM. There are slight deviations in the translation but it measures up to less than 1% overall.
We are going to work on the secondary horn a little later when we work out the safest and most accurate way to do the steep angled cuts.
Take a peek!
Attachments
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WOW! Fantastic work detailing everything.
A hangover of conversion to metric has created a lot of measurements in fractions of mm. So we will tweak it a bit to make it more comprehensive.
50.8mm can become 51 etc.
And I think we will remove the DADO trenches on the top and bottom pieces, as it's more work, and also having the Vertical walls all the same makes it easier to cut many pieces on one saw setting resulting in a more square fit.
( Back and Sides, and Left and Right Horn walls)
How did you find the learning curve using solidworks. Looks like you got the hang of it pretty quick?
Also, what are the best prices and place have you found to get the drivers in Aus?
Good job btw
Also, what are the best prices and place have you found to get the drivers in Aus?
Good job btw
I got the cheaper Ferrite version of the Compression driver as it was 200 (AUD) dollars cheaper.
Crossfader Australia
Considering shipping, turns out the cheapest place to get them for me worldwide was a few blocks away from home!
For the B&C 10" drivers, I got two off PartsExpress. Ebay. Because its a bit cheaper for shipping to use Ebay Global.
When we do a bigger order (if the prototype is going to work for us) I guess we would go with Parts Express again...simply because they are reliable and fairly cheap.
Our goal is to build FOUR SynTripP units.
Crossfader Australia
Considering shipping, turns out the cheapest place to get them for me worldwide was a few blocks away from home!
For the B&C 10" drivers, I got two off PartsExpress. Ebay. Because its a bit cheaper for shipping to use Ebay Global.
When we do a bigger order (if the prototype is going to work for us) I guess we would go with Parts Express again...simply because they are reliable and fairly cheap.
Our goal is to build FOUR SynTripP units.
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Nice, thanks mate.
I assume the 3060 is the ferrite version of the 3050.
Celestion CDX14-3060 Compression Driver - Crossfader Australia
Linked for the aussies who ever build this.
Thanks for the PE global eBay shipping trick too.
I assume the 3060 is the ferrite version of the 3050.
Celestion CDX14-3060 Compression Driver - Crossfader Australia
Linked for the aussies who ever build this.
Thanks for the PE global eBay shipping trick too.
Splendid work Finbot!
4 questions, I like to keep designs as simple and homogeneous as possible:
1. Would it be possible to swap all the 18mm ply parts for 12mm?
2. Would it be possible to use 12mm ply instead of 20x20 cleats to secure back panel?
3. Skip the 4mm dados?
4. I see you excluded the "cone plugs" seen in arts pictures, could you exclude them in the cabinet aswell? (Might be a question Art is more qualified to answer)
4 questions, I like to keep designs as simple and homogeneous as possible:
1. Would it be possible to swap all the 18mm ply parts for 12mm?
2. Would it be possible to use 12mm ply instead of 20x20 cleats to secure back panel?
3. Skip the 4mm dados?
4. I see you excluded the "cone plugs" seen in arts pictures, could you exclude them in the cabinet aswell? (Might be a question Art is more qualified to answer)
Fin,The model has been recreated in Solidworks 2013. The first draft of the cut plans are ready.
The model is shown in MM. There are slight deviations in the translation but it measures up to less than 1% overall.
We are going to work on the secondary horn a little later when we work out the safest and most accurate way to do the steep angled cuts.
Take a peek!
Nice work!
On my table saw the fence can be moved to the left side of the blade, the steep angle cuts are then done with the pieces run through standing up against the fence.
A few observations on your first draft:
1) SynTripP is misspelled.
2) You have used a different part naming than detailed in post 61.
Part "H" (you call item 5) has been installed reversed, the longer portion should attach to "D" (you call item 4), not to part "A" and "AB" (top and bottom panels).
3) There is no detail of the pole swivel mount parts.
4) The side panels don't show the handle cut outs.
5) The Throat Adapter Plate is incorrect.
6) You have no details showing the cone filler or the routing ring to prevent the cone from hitting part "E" (you call items 1 & 2).
7) The grill frame which makes the transition angle from first to the second portion of the horn has not been detailed.
Art
Hey Art!
Yep the model is quite a way from being finished, and I do intend to get to those parts over the coming weeks.
We have done just enough to get a prototype iteration up and running.
We got a bit excited and wanted to post something to show the progression!
I'm going to attempt to round off a lot of the measurements (50.8mm up to 51 etc) Easier to work with.
The cone fillers are planned to be 3D printed at this stage. Less labour.
Will post more progression soon.
Yep the model is quite a way from being finished, and I do intend to get to those parts over the coming weeks.
We have done just enough to get a prototype iteration up and running.
We got a bit excited and wanted to post something to show the progression!
I'm going to attempt to round off a lot of the measurements (50.8mm up to 51 etc) Easier to work with.
The cone fillers are planned to be 3D printed at this stage. Less labour.
Will post more progression soon.
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Art did some tests on the Eminence N314T driver which perhaps he might wish to share his results on.
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