Now I'm suspecting some of my mods to be the problem.
Stock DC power caps on my board were some that say "nichicon 1000uF 25V. I've put in the Sanyo (not panasonic, but same product number!?) 330uF Oscons. Anythin weird here?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291276879958?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT bouught these.
But on mine, it says: 345 SEPF 330 25V, not 130 SEPF 330 25V.
Stock DC power caps on my board were some that say "nichicon 1000uF 25V. I've put in the Sanyo (not panasonic, but same product number!?) 330uF Oscons. Anythin weird here?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291276879958?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT bouught these.
But on mine, it says: 345 SEPF 330 25V, not 130 SEPF 330 25V.
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Now I'm suspecting some of my mods to be the problem.
Did you ground the pot?
I sometimes have buzzing unless I ground the pot (just add a wire from the pot body to the ground plane on the board....)
Nope. Smaller package with different dialectic. Wouldn't matter if max V is same. The V rating here is irrelevant as twice needed i.e V before + V after.
Decoupling slightly different in V requirement of cap than bypass, but using same rule neither improves, nor degrades.
With mlcc there is also question of how many layers in any given cap. More layers in same size cap means thinner dialectic between each layer.
All other things being equal, pick the thicker cap.
IMHO
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Oh well. Thats a 3116 HSDZ board gone to the big amp in the sky to play harmoniously with the class A angels tonight. 
Got the pin 17 desoldered and lifted. Had the resistor & cap secure. After tidying work station somehow managed to knock amp board off desk, and the impact knocked pin 17 right out of the IC body!
Gonna try luck on ebay with a very cheeky best offer for another pair of the HSDZ.


Got the pin 17 desoldered and lifted. Had the resistor & cap secure. After tidying work station somehow managed to knock amp board off desk, and the impact knocked pin 17 right out of the IC body!

Gonna try luck on ebay with a very cheeky best offer for another pair of the HSDZ.

Why not try a good 3116 ampboard, after all solderingfun the blueboard still isn't a good 3116 amp.
How is this board? It's saying 2X100W and from looks it's also having two TPA3116 chips.
Any suggestion, should i go for it.?
TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel 2 100W Digital Audio Amplifier Module for Arduino | eBay
Any suggestion, should i go for it.?
TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel 2 100W Digital Audio Amplifier Module for Arduino | eBay
Why not try a good 3116 ampboard, after all solderingfun the blueboard still isn't a good 3116 amp.
open to suggestions.
can get the hsdz delivered for $10 each in uk. cant be more expensive.
also, only needs to be 2x50W, dont need the twin IC boards.
Why not try a good 3116 ampboard, after all solderingfun the blueboard still isn't a good 3116 amp.
The clone of Audiobah's green bord have a good reputation. According to someones, it has much better SQ than YJ blue/black boards. Except for 2 elko's all other parts are smd's.
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I still think the original YBDZ Wiener sounds great with just swap of two OSCON's.
Online Shop Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design|Aliexpress Mobile
In fact, I am going to order two more now...
Online Shop Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design|Aliexpress Mobile
In fact, I am going to order two more now...
Just found that the HSDZ blue boards sell in China for ¥67 each. That's £0.35 or $0.55 each.
http://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=44129013869
I think I am just gonna put in an extremely low offer for 2 boards, and see what I can get them for!
Those green audiobah copies sell for ¥48 or $0.39 or £0.25 in China.
http://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=36143080261
Best thing to do is look on eBay for "best offer" from china seller and go in low!
http://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=44129013869
I think I am just gonna put in an extremely low offer for 2 boards, and see what I can get them for!
Those green audiobah copies sell for ¥48 or $0.39 or £0.25 in China.
http://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=36143080261
Best thing to do is look on eBay for "best offer" from china seller and go in low!
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Nice simple looking mono amp
http://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=40299666698
http://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=40299666698
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Those green audiobah copies sell for ¥48 or $0.39 or £0.25 in China.
????
That is original board, YJ copied. Your prices need x10 🙂 It is better than the worst.
xrk's linked board is better and standard closer to good 3116 ampboard. However AC1308 does have better pop-prevention, part of offpop being 1uF versus 10uF inputcapacitors.
I still think the original YBDZ Wiener sounds great with just swap of two OSCON's.
Online Shop Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design|Aliexpress Mobile
In fact, I am going to order two more now...
You can find dozens of similar opinions like this:
"I just attended the California Audio Show featuring some very high end gear, and my friend and I agreed that a properly implemented TPA3116 amp can stand on its own with many of the amps we heard. I think that's the draw of these amps--that they can perform at a very high level at a fraction of the cost of more expensive amplifiers. The trick is matching speakers with these amps." (bolded by me)
I'm not as technical guy as most of you, but I have an idea for the "ultimate version" for TPA3116.
Using precision resistors like these:
http://www.caddock.com/Online_catalog/Mrktg_Lit/TypeUSF.pdf
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/417658.pdf
and these (including input capacitor):
http://webbuilder2.asiannet.com/ftp/1722/MCHL.pdf
http://www.mundorf.com/english 1.1/Broschuere Einzelseiten/MLGO.pdf
Volume control (stepped attenuator) with Vishay Zfoil resistor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stepped-att...812?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c404b2cec
CineMag input transformer, Coilcraft for outputs.
Batteries for PS. RedWine Audio is walking on similar avenue:
6moons audio reviews: Red Wine Audio Liliana
I know this wouldn't be a cheap chinese stuff anymore (total cost somewhere few hundred $), It's hard to say whether it is worth to try, or not, but (maybe) we would know what's really inside of TPA's "soul".
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Just found that the HSDZ blue boards sell in China for ¥67 each. That's £0.35 or $0.55 each.
1 Japanese yen = 0.008177 U.S. dollars, 48¥ = 54 U.S. Cent. What a price! Does someone understand the chinese pricing policy? 🙂
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Those green audiobah copies sell for ¥48 or $0.39 or £0.25 in China.
????
That is original board, YJ copied. Your prices need x10 🙂 It is better than the worst.
xrk's linked board is better and standard closer to good 3116 ampboard. However AC1308 does have better pop-prevention, part of offpop being 1uF versus 10uF inputcapacitors.
Why X10? 😕
I do not believe it to be possible to sell those boards for $0.54. There must be a mistake in pricing or currency units etc. The TPA3116D2 chip in qnty sells for about that much alone.
Just found that the HSDZ blue boards sell in China for ¥67 each. That's £0.35 or $0.55 each.
????
I think I am just gonna put in an extremely low offer for 2 boards, and see what I can get them for!
Those green audiobah copies sell for ¥48 or $0.39 or £0.25 in China.
????
Best thing to do is look on eBay for "best offer" from china seller and go in low!
I am certain that you mixed up the exchange rate.
67 RMB is ~ £7.02
I do not believe it to be possible to sell those boards for $0.54. There must be a mistake in pricing or currency units etc. The TPA3116D2 chip in qnty sells for about that much alone.
Ahha... Realise the mistake. Typed yen into Google instead of yuan. Although, searching the site, the chips themselves sell for as low as ¥6.... That's £0.60 each!
Still, China slumping at moment. Sellers taking best offers could go extremely low.
I'm still trying to figure out what the problem is with my board. How much noise (even with source disconnected) is normal? How much worse should the noise get if I turn on the tv that is near by? How would I go about solving these issues?
YJblue+oscons+4,7uF Wimas.
YJblue+oscons+4,7uF Wimas.
I'm still trying to figure out what the problem is with my board. How much noise (even with source dionnected) is normal? How much worse should the noise get if I turn on the tv that is near by? How would I go about solving these issues?
YJblue+oscons+4,7uF Wimas.
Did you also change the return input(neg) decoupling?
try tack soldering balanced inputs to bottom legs of decoupling cap all 4 nearest chip. this will show if input circuit is responsible. if it persists its input caps or traces or input connection. if it stops then after input.
i found my same issue was input caps.
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