• Disclaimer: This Vendor's Forum is a paid-for commercial area. Unlike the rest of diyAudio, the Vendor has complete control of what may or may not be posted in this forum. If you wish to discuss technical matters outside the bounds of what is permitted by the Vendor, please use the non-commercial areas of diyAudio to do so.

Hermes-BBB/Botic cape for BeagleBone Black

Jump to Latest
#141
Russ White said:
You sure you have the firmware on the BBB working correctly? Make sure you follow Miero's instructions. Also make sure you set the clock mode to 3.

See here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/258254-support-botic-linux-driver.html

and some more specific help here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/258254-support-botic-linux-driver-69.html#post4305174
Click to expand...
Yes, thanks. I have been running the botic driver for quite a while now. The clock mode was already set to 3.

What does led3 not working indicate?

I'll just try a fresh copy of botic to be sure.
 
#142
All 4 are typically lit. You might have an LED backward? The 3 user LEDs are not assigned any particular meaning by default (yet) - but the enable LED means that the output of the isolator is enabled - thus sending the master clock to the BBB. By default the 3 user LEDs are pulled high because they are still set to input with internal pull-up.
 
#143
Russ White said:
All 4 are typically lit. You might have an LED backward? The 3 user LEDs are not assigned any particular meaning by default (yet) - but the enable LED means that the output of the isolator is enabled - thus sending the master clock to the BBB. By default the 3 user LEDs are pulled high because they are still set to input with internal pull-up.
Click to expand...
Thanks, just switched to Fedora 21 ARM with botic enhanced kernel. EN led is now lid and I got sound!
So it was some software/config issue.

Now let's see if DSD works...

BTW I have not seen led 3 lid yet...only EN, 1 and 2. More testing...
 
Last edited:
#144
I've got everything up and running, got isolated I2C working after adding the needed pull-ups. After that I was able to get DSD going (*) on my DAC. Happy days 🙂

(*) my AK4490 based DAC needs programming via I2C to switch between PCM and DSD playback.
 
#148
linuxfan said:
The PS Audio I2S-over-LVDS method is discussed on the forum here -
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/237690-ps-audio-i2s-interface.html#post3645239

If PS Audio's use of LVDS is equivalent to the TPA Teleporter (it would certainly be worth checking)
then your Cronus-to-HDMI connections should be -

MCK to pin 10 (TMDS Clock+)
GND to pin 12 (TMDS Clock-)
BCK to pin 4 (TMDS Data1+)
GND to pin 6 (TMDS Data1-)
D1 to pin 9 (TMDS Data0-)
GND to pin 7 (TMDS Data0+)
D2 to pin 3 (TMDS Data2-)
GND to pin 1 (TMDS Data 2+)
Click to expand...

Thanks very much for this Linuxfan, will try this first before resorting to Teleporter (if I have to) and thanks also for the link to the PS Audio thread, I wasn't aware of it.
 
#149
druidaudio said:
will try this first before resorting to Teleporter
Click to expand...
Oops, I wasn't totally clear, and you appear to be under the impression that you can wire straight from Cronus I2s outputs to HDMI - and this is wrong - you still need a Teleporter to convert Cronus I2S to LVDS, because your Wyred4Sound HDMI input needs to be LVDS.

In my earlier post I should have said "Cronus-to-LVDS-to-HDMI".
 
#150
linuxfan said:
Oops, I wasn't totally clear, and you appear to be under the impression that you can wire straight from Cronus I2s outputs to HDMI - and this is wrong - you still need a Teleporter to convert Cronus I2S to LVDS, because your Wyred4Sound HDMI input needs to be LVDS.

In my earlier post I should have said "Cronus-to-LVDS-to-HDMI".
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification, shall need to add Teleporter to my Hermes/Cronus order. Again, many thanks for your help on this.
 
#153
Hi Russ,

thanks for a great product!

I have a question about a battery connection:

I've connected + and - battery wires to the + and - terminals on the Hermes. And it seem to supply the voltage when cutting the power, but looks like it's not charging the battery, because it's now drained to 3.3V.

Looking at battery solutions for BBB on the net, I noticed that TP5 and TP6 on BBB are shorted. Is that what J1 on Hermes is for? Should it be shorted in order to charge the battery?
 
#156
UART on Hermes-BBB usage?

I've just tried the UART connection on the Hermes-BBB with a FTDI USB to serial cable. I do not get any output.

Do I need to do anything special to get it going?
The cable works when I use the J1 serial header on the BBB itself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom