Powering BBB, Hermes & Cronus
1) Just for now, I would give the Hermes, Cronus & BBB each their separate power supplies.
As I understand it, when I power down, the H&C should power down first, then the BBB, to avoid bricking the BBB.
2) Does it matter where the clocks go, X1 X2 ? If it does where does each go, I have the 45.1584/49.152MHz Rhea Pair.
3) Always forget this one, the long lead on the LEDs is cathode?
That gors to ground or the other way?
1) Just for now, I would give the Hermes, Cronus & BBB each their separate power supplies.
As I understand it, when I power down, the H&C should power down first, then the BBB, to avoid bricking the BBB.
2) Does it matter where the clocks go, X1 X2 ? If it does where does each go, I have the 45.1584/49.152MHz Rhea Pair.
3) Always forget this one, the long lead on the LEDs is cathode?
That gors to ground or the other way?
Strictly speaking - clock selection works like this:
X1 is selected when CS is low (typically this is used to select 44.1Khz family)
X2 is selected when CS is high (typically this is used to select 48Khz family)
X1 is selected when CS is low (typically this is used to select 44.1Khz family)
X2 is selected when CS is high (typically this is used to select 48Khz family)
nice,where did you source that battery from?Ooooh, music is playing here!
Just thrown together for now, but working first time and sounding great so far 🙂
The Hermes-BBB and the BBB itself utilize the same power source. The cronus is completely isolated from the BBB.
Seems you want a 3.7v lipo battery. eBay for example will give you many results in a search for "3.7v lithium polymer battery"
You can search for "062535 battery" for a 500mah one. I ended up buying this 1200mah one for mine because it was in UK stock.
Lithium Polymer 3.7v 1200 mAh Battery | eBay
hope this helps,
James
LiPo option
I have bought a couple of 3.7V 1050mAh LiPo LP-503562-1S-3, which has a NTC for temp control. Available from element14/farnell.
I have not come around actually using one, it's on the todo
I have bought a couple of 3.7V 1050mAh LiPo LP-503562-1S-3, which has a NTC for temp control. Available from element14/farnell.
I have not come around actually using one, it's on the todo
+1
Placed the order on 31st March, missed the first batch by a hairline. So looking forward to having them on hand with my DDDAC!
Attachments
I am a little behind in the second batch shipping (stomach bug earlier this week). I have begin shipping, but likely will not finish all the orders until early next week.
Sorry for the delay... Lots of boards and to build in these batches 🙂.
Received my package today 🙂
2x Cronus and 2x Hermes (1 for Amanero; 1 for BBB).
I plan to put all to the "digital source" in a separate enclosure and feed it with the teleporters to my dual mono BIIIse dac.
Now the questions start to raise:
How clean should the power be for the components?
should i use placid for the "input" side (Amanero/BBB-Hermes) and should i use placid for the "output" side (2x cronus) or is some cheap CRC voltage regulator sufficient? Or cheap for "input" and placid for "output" and teleporter?
How much power do i need? (BBB or Amanereo, Hermes, Cronus...)?
I would ike to use the two cronus via an Otto II to teleporter out --> CAT6 cable --> teleporter in --> short split cable to left and right BIIIse
Is this OK or is there a better way to connect things?
thank you in advance
2x Cronus and 2x Hermes (1 for Amanero; 1 for BBB).
I plan to put all to the "digital source" in a separate enclosure and feed it with the teleporters to my dual mono BIIIse dac.
Now the questions start to raise:
How clean should the power be for the components?
should i use placid for the "input" side (Amanero/BBB-Hermes) and should i use placid for the "output" side (2x cronus) or is some cheap CRC voltage regulator sufficient? Or cheap for "input" and placid for "output" and teleporter?
How much power do i need? (BBB or Amanereo, Hermes, Cronus...)?
I would ike to use the two cronus via an Otto II to teleporter out --> CAT6 cable --> teleporter in --> short split cable to left and right BIIIse
Is this OK or is there a better way to connect things?
thank you in advance
My build with Buffalo 3:
- DAC in synchronous mode
- stereo with "smart wiring" done on the Cronus; there is 3rd resistor on the other side
- BBB as I2C controller for ES9018
- BBB powered by LCDPS with shorted R3 to increase provided current
- installed headers for connecting peripherals (these were not part of my kit)
- (temporarily) disabled clock divider and BBB configured to 45/49MHz clocks
- USB WiFi adapter for network access
- DAC in synchronous mode
- stereo with "smart wiring" done on the Cronus; there is 3rd resistor on the other side
- BBB as I2C controller for ES9018
- BBB powered by LCDPS with shorted R3 to increase provided current
- installed headers for connecting peripherals (these were not part of my kit)
- (temporarily) disabled clock divider and BBB configured to 45/49MHz clocks
- USB WiFi adapter for network access
Attachments
He is doing the remapping of D1/D2 that you can already do right at the B3 - he just decided to do it at the Cronus instead. Note - if you are going to use the B3 in stereo remapped (with jumpers on the B3 joining data channels) only place resistors R5 - R7 on the cronus so that you don't short anything. Then you can play stereo PCM/DSD as normal on the B3 in remapped mode.
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I would use placid on the Cronus side - but it is not at all important to use it on the BBB side. The cronus will draw typically (with clocks we stock) < 200ma. The BBB > 1.5A especially when charging a battery.
Your plan for OTTO-II and the teleporter is fine - a slightly better wiring strategy would be to use 4 teleporters so that you can wire each receiving teleporter direct to each DAC. This would actually allow you to do "mono block" type DACs as well.
HI,
thank you for answering.
Does that mean on sending side also two teleporters connected to the output of otto II with "y"-type cable? If so, what would be thefts option for connection of the teleporters a: to BIIIse and b: to Otto. (wire to booth sides or uFl on Buf/Otto and wire to teleporter or a small pcb for direkt stacking?)
Sorry for so much questions but the answer may be of interest for others to.
Branko