I just solder to the copper ground plane sometimes, works fine. Sure, it's not necessarily ideal but I'm not clever enough to do perfect grounding so I won't let it worry me too much.
Exactly the answer I was looking for - thanks.
How's it going at your end - have you found and fixed the problem ?
How's it going at your end - have you found and fixed the problem ?
Nope, I can't be bothered right now. I've just bought a new car so that's taking up most of my "hobby" attention. I just turn it on, listen to an album, then turn it off to cool down ready for the next one. I know that is very poor and I will do some proper fault-finding soon.
Hi
I have just got my hands on an Alpha One? I'm quite impressed with it considering it's age, especially with the size of the soundstage. Do any of you Alpha mods apply to the alpha one?
My frst problem is with the drive which will read cds if I give the disc a little spin myself, to get it started. If not it struggles, gives up and says no disc. Once it's going there are no probs with the sound. Any idea how I ight fix this?
I'll put it through my DACMAGIC eventually so I imagine it's not worth replacing the DAC, is that right?
I was going to leave the opaps to begin with to see if I could work with the character of the current ones, however I'm always open to interesting suggestions!
Finaly if anyone had the service manual I'd be very grateful if you would share it with me.
Many thanks
I have just got my hands on an Alpha One? I'm quite impressed with it considering it's age, especially with the size of the soundstage. Do any of you Alpha mods apply to the alpha one?
My frst problem is with the drive which will read cds if I give the disc a little spin myself, to get it started. If not it struggles, gives up and says no disc. Once it's going there are no probs with the sound. Any idea how I ight fix this?
I'll put it through my DACMAGIC eventually so I imagine it's not worth replacing the DAC, is that right?
I was going to leave the opaps to begin with to see if I could work with the character of the current ones, however I'm always open to interesting suggestions!
Finaly if anyone had the service manual I'd be very grateful if you would share it with me.
Many thanks
SRPP I/V output stage
Hi:
After trying several op-amps in my moded Arcam Alpha 5, running in class A, I must agree with Mr. Fikus when he said: "there is no better op-amp like no op-amp"!
Again I must agree with lampizator when he said the tube I/V output alone represents more than all mods you can do in the CD player.
Here my mods:
All digital caps changed for Os-con SPEC;
All power caps changed for Rubycon ZL;
Changed the resistors board for PRP metal film and some Takman;
LM regulators changed for best Motorola;
Diodes changed for Motorola;
Added some inductors before the power resistor of the digital chips;
NetAudio Clock;
NOS;
DEM;
Op-amps (tryed several among the best) running in class A;
SRPP 6N2P-EV tube stage for I/V output (the best!)
Here some pics about my I/V srpp tube output stage.
It is not look nice but it sounds amazing!
Hi:
After trying several op-amps in my moded Arcam Alpha 5, running in class A, I must agree with Mr. Fikus when he said: "there is no better op-amp like no op-amp"!
Again I must agree with lampizator when he said the tube I/V output alone represents more than all mods you can do in the CD player.
Here my mods:
All digital caps changed for Os-con SPEC;
All power caps changed for Rubycon ZL;
Changed the resistors board for PRP metal film and some Takman;
LM regulators changed for best Motorola;
Diodes changed for Motorola;
Added some inductors before the power resistor of the digital chips;
NetAudio Clock;
NOS;
DEM;
Op-amps (tryed several among the best) running in class A;
SRPP 6N2P-EV tube stage for I/V output (the best!)
Here some pics about my I/V srpp tube output stage.
It is not look nice but it sounds amazing!
Attachments
Some aditional notes
Future plans:
Make my salas shunt reg to feed the TDA1541A and SAA7310;
Feed all other chips with is own regulator (LM337T or LM317T);
Make two wood boxes like these ones for Arcam Alpha:
Sell my reference (until today, because the Arcam sound much more additive!) Electrocompaniet EMC1-UP player;
Read this: Electrocompaniet
Make my OWN opinion about the debate: which sounds better? vinil or cd?
ENJOY the music and pray for the sun! The winter are cold in Portugal.
Future plans:
Make my salas shunt reg to feed the TDA1541A and SAA7310;
Feed all other chips with is own regulator (LM337T or LM317T);
Make two wood boxes like these ones for Arcam Alpha:
Sell my reference (until today, because the Arcam sound much more additive!) Electrocompaniet EMC1-UP player;
Read this: Electrocompaniet
Make my OWN opinion about the debate: which sounds better? vinil or cd?
ENJOY the music and pray for the sun! The winter are cold in Portugal.
Attachments
DEM mod
Hi Andrew:
I have done your sugested DEM mod but I have a lot of noise in the sound!
Will you help me to solve the problem please?
Thank you,
Antonio
Hi Andrew:
I have done your sugested DEM mod but I have a lot of noise in the sound!
Will you help me to solve the problem please?
Thank you,
Antonio
Tell me what you have done and I'll do my best to help.
I made some mistakes too - don't mind admitting it.😱
Andrew
I made some mistakes too - don't mind admitting it.😱
Andrew
DEM mod
Hi again Andrew:
I follow your schematic.
I forget to say I have the player running in NOS mode - may it will be the noise cause...
Soon I will post some pics.
Many thanks for you quick reply,
Antonio
Hi again Andrew:
I follow your schematic.
I forget to say I have the player running in NOS mode - may it will be the noise cause...
Soon I will post some pics.
Many thanks for you quick reply,
Antonio
It might be NOS thats a problem - but the real problem is I don't know these things technically enough to make a statement - sorry.
In the end I took it ( DEM mod ) off because I too had some noise problems with it and instead I concentrated more on the power supplies which gave me really significant gains.
A little bit like SimonT's work but without so much reserve VA
Do you like the NOS sound ?
I recently did it on an Alpha 5 and removed the SAA7220 completely. There are certainly gains in sound quality in the bottom end and midrange but I'm still not sure about the hf roll off. I'm sure I can hear it.
It's never going to be a match for my old Alpha even without DEM mod.
In the end I took it ( DEM mod ) off because I too had some noise problems with it and instead I concentrated more on the power supplies which gave me really significant gains.
A little bit like SimonT's work but without so much reserve VA
Do you like the NOS sound ?
I recently did it on an Alpha 5 and removed the SAA7220 completely. There are certainly gains in sound quality in the bottom end and midrange but I'm still not sure about the hf roll off. I'm sure I can hear it.
It's never going to be a match for my old Alpha even without DEM mod.
Antonio - I just read your other stuff - those boxes look beautiful.
Please let us know how the machine sounds with wood cases.
That's very interesting to me.
Please let us know how the machine sounds with wood cases.
That's very interesting to me.
Another note for the record
Earlier in this thread, I noted that I had added smt organic polymer decoupling caps (ESRD Series 7.3 x 4.3 mm 16 V 8.2 uF Polymer Aluminum Electrolytic ) directly to the 14 pins of the TDA. I had added these without removing the stock caps supplied by Arcam.
While chasing down a different issue, I removed the stock caps leaving only the SMT caps. Oh my goodness! Very strong positive move. Another layer of clarity is exposed. Started with the Tantalum. Clear change for the better. Out came the needle nose pliers and MKP extraction took about 1 minute. Anyone following the SMT cap on pin approach... do yourself a big favour and remove the stock caps and dispatch them to the dust bin.
BTW, I am picking up an Arcam Black Box Dac in a few days. Kind of for the nostalgia value since I have had so much fun abusing this alpha. One appeared for sale in my area and I have claimed it. Now continue on the look out for any thrift shop special that has the S1 or 2 chip.
Earlier in this thread, I noted that I had added smt organic polymer decoupling caps (ESRD Series 7.3 x 4.3 mm 16 V 8.2 uF Polymer Aluminum Electrolytic ) directly to the 14 pins of the TDA. I had added these without removing the stock caps supplied by Arcam.
While chasing down a different issue, I removed the stock caps leaving only the SMT caps. Oh my goodness! Very strong positive move. Another layer of clarity is exposed. Started with the Tantalum. Clear change for the better. Out came the needle nose pliers and MKP extraction took about 1 minute. Anyone following the SMT cap on pin approach... do yourself a big favour and remove the stock caps and dispatch them to the dust bin.
BTW, I am picking up an Arcam Black Box Dac in a few days. Kind of for the nostalgia value since I have had so much fun abusing this alpha. One appeared for sale in my area and I have claimed it. Now continue on the look out for any thrift shop special that has the S1 or 2 chip.
Oh my, life's been hectic with a new job, career, change of location, car and other things. The hi-fi has well and truly taken a back seat.
Now, however, I'm settling down again and had a look in my old Arcam to address the disc stopping when warmed up problem.
I took a little video for fun, but it doesn't show much!
Fault finding on highly modified Arcam Alpha cd player - YouTube
Now, however, I'm settling down again and had a look in my old Arcam to address the disc stopping when warmed up problem.
I took a little video for fun, but it doesn't show much!
Fault finding on highly modified Arcam Alpha cd player - YouTube
Is it definitely not a mechanical issue?
I've seen problems with those disc clamps before and it can sometimes help to only have one of the springs attached that pull the top flap down.
Lee.
I've seen problems with those disc clamps before and it can sometimes help to only have one of the springs attached that pull the top flap down.
Lee.
Schottky diods
Hi there,
could you let me know the type of the schottkys you used for the mod on the Arcam Alpha cd Player? I currently have BYD33G types in mine. They are apparently 400V, is that necessary? I have seen lots of People recomending schottky 11DQ10 wich are only 100V. Would they last or should I better use 11DQ20 (200V)?
I would be greateful for your advice.
Thank you.
Hi there,
could you let me know the type of the schottkys you used for the mod on the Arcam Alpha cd Player? I currently have BYD33G types in mine. They are apparently 400V, is that necessary? I have seen lots of People recomending schottky 11DQ10 wich are only 100V. Would they last or should I better use 11DQ20 (200V)?
I would be greateful for your advice.
Thank you.
Still there ?
If you are still waiting.......and waiting....
11DQ10 are fine - I used uf4002 from memory.
What have you managed to do so far ?
Like it ?
If you are still waiting.......and waiting....
11DQ10 are fine - I used uf4002 from memory.
What have you managed to do so far ?
Like it ?
Hi Andrew! We meet again.
Another suggestion. in my current DAC I am using super soft fast recovery diodes recommended by Oliver Mai in his Red Barron project. Sound is great.
Fairchild Stelth ISL9R460PF2 600V/4A/22ns Mouser 512-ISL9R460PF2
Another suggestion. in my current DAC I am using super soft fast recovery diodes recommended by Oliver Mai in his Red Barron project. Sound is great.
Fairchild Stelth ISL9R460PF2 600V/4A/22ns Mouser 512-ISL9R460PF2
Hi Walter 😀
Another tip from ...thank you !
I'll get a few and see what happens.
I missed all this stuff and so came back a few days ago following the purchase of an astonishingly cheap player ( actually two ) that has a chip on board that sings like a bird...in fact it's possible it's going to blow my old faithful to pieces after I've fixed a few things.
I'm getting excited all over again....which is slightly worrying !!
It always means spending money !! hahaha
Another tip from ...thank you !
I'll get a few and see what happens.
I missed all this stuff and so came back a few days ago following the purchase of an astonishingly cheap player ( actually two ) that has a chip on board that sings like a bird...in fact it's possible it's going to blow my old faithful to pieces after I've fixed a few things.
I'm getting excited all over again....which is slightly worrying !!
It always means spending money !! hahaha
Thank you for your reply, I was not desperately waiting (-:
Until today I changed all the ELCOs on the Audio board, changed the couple caps to Nichicon Muse 100uF 25V (do not know if that was a good choice?? What do you think?) and changed the SAA7220P/B to a NOS board from NET Audio.
Is it worth changing the ELCOs on the digital board ore are they not so important?
How big an improvement should I expect changing the BYD33G to schottky 11DQ10 or the recomended Fairchild Stelth ISL9R460PF2 600V/4A/22ns Mouser 512-ISL9R460PF2 diods? The comments I have read online are not really unambilious and the BYD33G are as far as I know not bad either.
Thank you for your reply and hope to receive other good hints.
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