Good point, right there! Interestingly, these can often sound boring and two-dimensional at lesser points in the tweaking journey - then, finally it all makes sense, snaps into focus, and one can hear enormous depth and character in the sound!
Some of my most spectacular recordings rely almost completely on synthesized sounds - quite incredible soundscapes are conjured up ... can make "proper" orchestral pieces sound a bit boring, in fact
, ...
I think when it comes to preference, you are just not going to get a global one. Speaker and driver manufacturers are aware of this, and even though specs are used for quality control, the listening perception plays an important part in defining quality control parameters depending on the regional target market and other system setup factors. For example, I just got some feedback from a local audio magazine editor, the only concern he had was that the bass did not have enough SPL although it was clean and revealing. After my explanation about the room size and recommended location for optimum performance, he did express that most consumers will not appreciate such consideration initially. This was a design trade off we had to make. Another bassist whom also does his own mixing at home felt it was the perfect thing for his application at home. I provided a Meridian Explorer DAC for the bassist to easily bypass all his other equipment by plugging directly into his iMac, and audio magazine editor used a variety of USB DACs, cellphone, it was a direct comparison against other active speakers which was due in a near release of reviews.
I would focus a lot in the interface spec recommendations as the basics, but have not yet seen manufacturers provide such information like input impedance curves, damping related curves, and how speaker impedance variation will effect performance. These should be the basics if you are not promoting a total system approach.
If you believe that sound-stage depth and sound-stage focus shift have something to do with an amplifier performance, then you are completely wrong.
I suggest you to read Mr. Linkwitz web site. You will find there a lot of information about those things you belive are due to amplifiers and perhaps you will be able to learn a lot of new things...
Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. Right now, my amp is two MOD86 R1.0s on a heat sink with a transformer and Power-86 board off to the side. It's in no condition to ship.
I expect to be busy with the Parallel-86 characterization (and hopefully stuffing more boards into envelopes) so I don't know when I'll have a presentable amplifier.
The Parallel-86 website went live Friday night: Neurochrome: Parallel-86
~Tom
Hi,
I try differents ways with "classical" LM3886, and (for me), PSU setup can change soundstage :
Dual mono sound better than single
safety loop breaker sound better without
battery powered sound better than toroid
But it's not TRUTH, it's mine, but I do not say that all poeple will hear these differences.
Now I would be curious to hear M86 with single psu and the same with dual mono.
Phil.
I try differents ways with "classical" LM3886, and (for me), PSU setup can change soundstage :
Dual mono sound better than single
safety loop breaker sound better without
battery powered sound better than toroid
But it's not TRUTH, it's mine, but I do not say that all poeple will hear these differences.
Now I would be curious to hear M86 with single psu and the same with dual mono.
Phil.
I use Linkwitz speakers and yes the lions share of depth and stereo soundstage perception is down to the loudspeaker dispersion characteristics, room acoustics, their positioning in the room and your seating position with regard to the loudspeakers; all this assuming competent, appropriate amplifier designs are used.
That said there are differences between amplifiers in this regard, even if in the grade scheme this is small compared to differences in speakers.
All my amplifier comparisons have been done on passive designs. Not with Pluto or LX Mini. When the performance is that brilliant with Linkwitz designs I feel no need to investigate alternatives for my own speakers.
Who knows though, maybe I will get the bug to fiddle with the recipe one day.
Hey Tom Thanks for considering ....When you do put it in a box I would be willing to pay for shipping both ways and write an extensive review....
Lawrence
That also seems to apply to MP3, at last partially. Some systems can play back a medium bitrate MP3 practically as good as a CD, and I suppose that in those rare cases, the interpretation of what it should sound like, has succeeded.
THD+N vs Power
Tom,
I have built v1. I was looking at the distortion charts, specifically THD+N vs Power. I am thinking about using the amplifier with a compression horn driver which is approx 110 db/w. At normal listening levels, 92db, I figure I need about 15 mW. As you decrease power, the THD+N increases. Is the increase all due to noise, or does distortion increase also?
Thanks,
Paul
Tom,
I have built v1. I was looking at the distortion charts, specifically THD+N vs Power. I am thinking about using the amplifier with a compression horn driver which is approx 110 db/w. At normal listening levels, 92db, I figure I need about 15 mW. As you decrease power, the THD+N increases. Is the increase all due to noise, or does distortion increase also?
Thanks,
Paul
use a Buffer, @ 110dB/W one does not need much gain/amplification for domestic duty. At most, maybe +6dB (2times gain)
A CDP with a maximum output of 2.2Vac passing an average music signal ~ 20dB below max, gives an output of ~220mVac.
Passing that through a Buffer to the 110dB/W speaker will give ~88dB @ 1m
add on +6dB of gain and you are 2dB above your target of 92dB.
The +4dB required to hit you 92dB target is a gain of 1.58times.
i.e. the 2.2Vac CDP signal gets multiplied to 3.5Vac and passed through a Power Buffer to drive the 110dB/W speaker to 112dB @1m
A CDP with a maximum output of 2.2Vac passing an average music signal ~ 20dB below max, gives an output of ~220mVac.
Passing that through a Buffer to the 110dB/W speaker will give ~88dB @ 1m
add on +6dB of gain and you are 2dB above your target of 92dB.
The +4dB required to hit you 92dB target is a gain of 1.58times.
i.e. the 2.2Vac CDP signal gets multiplied to 3.5Vac and passed through a Power Buffer to drive the 110dB/W speaker to 112dB @1m
I am about to fit my two Mod-86 boards, power supply and transformer in my chassis and I was wondering what the best layout is. In particular, I am wondering how sensitive the signal path is to having e.g. the AC power line running right next to it, or having the signal input/output wires crossing the power supply.
Basically, I would be happy if anyone could share a few "dos and don'ts" on how to organize the boards and wiring inside the chassis in the best way. I have a few options in mind but they all seem to include some compromises in terms of having signal wires crossing power wires, or having a Mod-86 sitting right next to the transformer and so on.
Thanks,
Soren
Basically, I would be happy if anyone could share a few "dos and don'ts" on how to organize the boards and wiring inside the chassis in the best way. I have a few options in mind but they all seem to include some compromises in terms of having signal wires crossing power wires, or having a Mod-86 sitting right next to the transformer and so on.
Thanks,
Soren
I have a few, which one are you referring to?
Probably not my new acquisition "Chassis Engineering",
which could be retitled "how to design car suspension for numpties"
Yes it is well enough written by a citizen of the USA that even numpties could understand the good bits and probably recognise the very few mistakes I have found so far.
Start on your wood/insulating work bench, without a chassis.
Mains (via a Mains Bulb Tester) way off to the left, then working progressively to the right,- transformer - PSU - Amplifier/heatsink - dummy load.
While you are in "testing" mode you are well away from dropping anything on the mains side.
Get this operational.
Then add on the input filters and adjust to find how tight they can be without affecting the wanted signal.
When you have that done you can attach even longer (flexible) cables between the modules. Moves modules and/or cables around. Find out which, if any, are susceptible to picking up interference. Use your mobile phone and land-line wireless phone as interference signals. If you have a fluorescent bulb table/inspection lamp, then use that as well.
After that you will have a better idea of where modules and cable can be placed when you "fold up" the assembly to fit in the box you plan to buy.
DO NOT buy the box first !!!!!!!
I was more meaning your posts on best wiring practice.
When I had the Westfield I used to have a copy of Carroll Smith's Nuts. Bolts. Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop) 1st (first) edition Text Only: Amazon.co.uk: Carroll Smith: Books which was referred to as 'scr*w to win' down the pub. Carroll Smith wrote some great books on racecar engineering.
When I had the Westfield I used to have a copy of Carroll Smith's Nuts. Bolts. Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop) 1st (first) edition Text Only: Amazon.co.uk: Carroll Smith: Books which was referred to as 'scr*w to win' down the pub. Carroll Smith wrote some great books on racecar engineering.