I'm going to integrate the input and output together for my sub amps. Less parts to fall off that way.
In the automotive world the call the diode on a relay a clamping diode. See why my terminology is so messed up?
In the automotive world the call the diode on a relay a clamping diode. See why my terminology is so messed up?
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Well , it does "clamp" EMF. To "strengthen/harden" the OPS against the onslaught
of the EMF (a loose term indeed) ... 😉
I just have the IPS/OPS , must use what there is. Outside the plate , I highly doubt
the euro's will loosen over time - the PCB ones (blues) , have friction plates under the tightening screws.
Those big white euro's also have the plates , most likely for vibration resistance.
Automotive world experience definitely has it's place with an integrated sub/amp project.
OS
Next generation "Badger" ! Some might want a pair of these for main amps ,
as well.
Got your "hum" fixed ??
(mine is way beyond fixed).
OS
as well.
Got your "hum" fixed ??
(mine is way beyond fixed).
OS
I've been stuck to the couch, sick for the last few days so I never got back into the hum yet. I've got a bunch of that star quad microphone cable around that AndrewT was talking about. I'm going to see if I can find some shielded power cable around for the rail feeds.
Whoa , being colder in Canada keeps those germs in the rooms.
Winter is over here (finally) . -20C last week 25C and rain from here on.
Out of the house .. at last !! 🙂
Yes , shielded power cables. Nerd quality 20th century HDD cables ...
as long as it is a good heavy braid.
OS
I have some new help in my shop that keeps bringing every disease in with them (they both have young kids). I like to work alone. I never get sick then.
Looks like Winter is breaking here too. It's finally above freezing.
I've never seen shielded HDD cables. I'll have to look through some of our old servers. I've done lots of shielding with foil duct tape with good success but it doesn't like to do tight bends.
Initial testing with my POS scope looks good so far on the crossover. Waveform looks perfect up until full boosted volume, then it starts to get a notch in the leading edge of the waveform peak. It starts to attenuate power below 33hZ. 3db drop is around 27 hZ. It can be extended lower with boost but I'm going to do a little tweaking to see if I can get it to run lower.
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Wow! that bad boy wolverine MT-200 board looks mean.
Badger fans ... eat your heart out (400W badger).
OS
The JL audio amp = PMPO
Your slewmaster's PMPO would most likely be over 1KW -
by that metric ... 🙄
PS - I had one of those woofers - gave it to my sister for her
car. Good driver with a big voice coil/magnet.
OS
Next I need to build a test box for one of my ACI subs and try it out. Once the box is sorted out I can design the heat sink and put all this stuff together. I'm actually surprised how cool the amp runs. It's just screwed to some 6" channel. Running the amp at clipping barely gets the output devices above 100F.
I'll most likely be limited by my 350-400VA trafo's current to <200W @ 8R.
My woofer is 8R/185W. It has more Xmax than that JL , but only a 10".
My planned upgrade path is - Dayton Audio RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Same Qts , but 4R and 600W. My 1.5cuft box + the present port is perfect.
No real hurry , my present sub can still really shake things up nicely.
OS
I've never been too impressed with the JL sub, or any other small box sub for that matter. Back when I used to play with car audio I ran a couple junk MTX blue thunder 10" subs in a ported box with a 350W x 2 Alpine amp and they would blur your vision without making farting noises. In another car I ran a pair of free air OZ 10s. Same thing. As soon as they started putting 10s in less than 1 foot boxes the SPL has dropped dramatically and you need to drive them so hard that you hear the amp as much as the music.
The Qts of the woofer and the design (volume of the box) is a bigger factor
than even the amp driving it !
The same 10" I have when in the original Logitech box does not
even sound like the same driver as it does now.
Twice as loud as before and able to do 25Hz with no turbulance.
Car audio sucks for HT. Most drivers are not designed for <45hz
high definition ported enclosures.
They are for rear deck mounting or for being stuffed into cheap
furry boxes ! 😀
Also , most car drivers are barely efficient. 82-85db/1W/1M is
common.
Even that dayton is only 84db - It needs twice the power
to match my tangband's SPL (88db).
OS
My OZs were 92db. They were from the days before cars became boom boxes. There's not too much car audio gear I would run in my house but I use it to test out new amps though. I don't mind if I melt a crappy car speaker if something is wrong.
OZ's new ones are 86-88db. They don't look like cheepo pyles
or mtx crap.
Still , car audio is full of misleading specs - it's all a bunch
of marketing to the unknowing redneck "boomer" crowd.
OS
I don't think Oz is owned by the same company any more. I also remember when Pyle made good subwoofers, before being sold multiple times and turning into junk. Klipsch owned them briefly.
I haven't heard a car audio system that I enjoyed listening to for 15 years. Now they run 1000W to a bunch of boombox subs and run the rest of the system on nothing for power. I prefer to hear the sound above 120hZ along with the bass.
I haven't heard a car audio system that I enjoyed listening to for 15 years. Now they run 1000W to a bunch of boombox subs and run the rest of the system on nothing for power. I prefer to hear the sound above 120hZ along with the bass.
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