I got that one from China. I'll assemble another one from that batch in a bit and see if I have any issues.
I know its a driver issue - I have not seen the "rx/tx" light up yet.
China , huh ? 😡
I just closely studied it , it is different from the nano 3.0 on the arduino
site - the FTDI chip on the bottom of the official nano is a 28 pin SMD and mine only has 16 ???
A much smaller chip -
might be an issue , wrong driver for the wrong chip,
huh ? On top , however is the ATmega328 and the 4 leds.
OS
China , huh ? 😡
I just closely studied it , it is different from the nano 3.0 on the arduino
site - the FTDI chip on the bottom of the official nano is a 28 pin SMD and mine only has 16 ???
A much smaller chip -
might be an issue , wrong driver for the wrong chip,
huh ? On top , however is the ATmega328 and the 4 leds.
OS
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Mine installed different drivers. It shows up as USB-SERIAL CH340(COM6). Another thing to try is selecting a different board with an Atmega328 chip and see if it will write that way.
yup , fake pirated FTDI chip on this arduino .... FTDI's new drivers "brick" the
chip to punish counterfeiters.😱
Unable to get FT232R drivers loaded under Windows 7 64bit
FTDI driver kills fake FTDI FT232?? - Page 1
Exactly describes my experiences . At least it was not my fault.
Owwww !
OS
chip to punish counterfeiters.😱
Unable to get FT232R drivers loaded under Windows 7 64bit
FTDI driver kills fake FTDI FT232?? - Page 1
Exactly describes my experiences . At least it was not my fault.
Owwww !
OS
Mine writes fine in Windows 7. This is a 32bit machine though. Maybe try searching for CH340 drivers.
If that doesn't work send me a layout for your protection board mount and I'll send a different Nano with it.
Mine installed different drivers. It shows up as USB-SERIAL CH340(COM6). Another thing to try is selecting a different board with an Atmega328 chip and see if it will write that way.
The way they brick the chip is on the OS side , some have gotten around
(unbricked) by using old drivers. There might be a registry hack - delete any
FTDI entries , then use the old drivers. This is a PITA.
OS
Don't fight with it too long. It cost $3 with shipping. I have a few higher quality ones in stock.
Mine writes fine in Windows 7. This is a 32bit machine though. Maybe try searching for CH340 drivers.
That's my nest step - my son's core duo 32bit W7 - old drivers. I'll actually search for
OLD ones (2013). I'm sure the official arduino software includes this "counterfeit
killing" software as well.
PS - it's a challenge - to hack it.
OS
Arduino is all about open source and freeware. They won't kill anything. Mine installed itself.
Don't fight with it too long. It cost $3 with shipping. I have a few higher quality ones in stock.
You mean ones that actually have the 28 pin "official" FTDI serial convertor IC ?
(fancy FTDI symbol) ?
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You mean ones that actually have the 28 pin "official" FTDI serial convertor IC ?
(fancy FTDI symbol) ?
OS
I've got some Sainsmart ones with the cables and all.
I've got some Sainsmart ones with the cables and all.
Just looked at the sainsmart , at least they use the 28pin serial IC. Amazon reviews
say that the black ones are "bricks" and all the blue ones work.
This is how you "wade through" the heaps of chinese B$ in this world , let 1000
other "suckers" buy it first and then review the feedback. 😀
OS
To elaborate on the 28 pin ft232 serial chip , mine might not even be a 232. A fake
232 (or real one) is timed by the software to determine piracy - if a fake is determined
(by timing) , it get bricked in the registry. I'm almost sure I can get the counterfeits to
work. Even mine , which is not a real 232.
Below is the plate for the amp control board. I'm still committed. 😀
OS
232 (or real one) is timed by the software to determine piracy - if a fake is determined
(by timing) , it get bricked in the registry. I'm almost sure I can get the counterfeits to
work. Even mine , which is not a real 232.
Below is the plate for the amp control board. I'm still committed. 😀
OS
Attachments
To elaborate on the 28 pin ft232 serial chip , mine might not even be a 232. A fake
232 (or real one) is timed by the software to determine piracy - if a fake is determined
(by timing) , it get bricked in the registry. I'm almost sure I can get the counterfeits to
work. Even mine , which is not a real 232.
Below is the plate for the amp control board. I'm still committed. 😀
OS
Are both bends down? Is it just one bend on the left side?
Hi,
If you have the USB chip that has the pins in both sides then you need the CH340 driver. To use the Arduino nano need to have the usb chip with pins on the 4 sides. Look for the CH340 driver. I found it in a Chinese web side.
I found another link that you can try:USB-SERIAL CH340 Drivers Download for Windows 7, 8, XP, Vista
I never try it. Good luck.
If you have the USB chip that has the pins in both sides then you need the CH340 driver. To use the Arduino nano need to have the usb chip with pins on the 4 sides. Look for the CH340 driver. I found it in a Chinese web side.
I found another link that you can try:USB-SERIAL CH340 Drivers Download for Windows 7, 8, XP, Vista
I never try it. Good luck.
Hi,
If you have the USB chip that has the pins in both sides then you need the CH340 driver. To use the Arduino nano need to have the usb chip with pins on the 4 sides. Look for the CH340 driver. I found it in a Chinese web side.
I found another link that you can try:USB-SERIAL CH340 Drivers Download for Windows 7, 8, XP, Vista
I never try it. Good luck.
That actually worked , Tauro. RX/TX lit up (2 seconds) ... software said script uploaded.
OS
You're running then.😎 I'll send everything from my inventory then.That actually worked , Tauro. RX/TX lit up (2 seconds) ... software said script uploaded.
OS
You're running then.😎 I'll send everything from my inventory then.
I did not say that , I said it loaded with RX/TX confirmation.
I plugged it back in to the PCB , hooked my temporary rails up and tried
the power switch input - the (external) led stayed dim - nothing changed.
Is there anything else I need to consider to "bench test" the whole project?
PS - I'm not saying all is fine ... just that the uploading step seems to have worked.
The green bootloader light blinks after reset , then stops after a few seconds. This
started after the software confirmed a successful upload.
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If you loaded the sketch without modifying it the LED will stay dim for about 45 seconds. It will turn on the tube supply, pause for 30 seconds, turn on the inrush relay, pause for 10 seconds, turn on the power relay, pause for 3 seconds, then turn on the speaker relays and start sampling. At that point the LED will go bright of flash an error code. If that doesn't happen I'll send out another Arduino.
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