I suspect the Karlsonator 8 would work pretty well.
Here's an old working sim I kluged by abusing Martin King's old 'sections' sheet. There's no consideration of the effect of slot exit, but it gives an idea. (ignore the early working name... )
It would be interesting to see how X's much more comprehensive akabak sim compares. If the slight peak at 4-600 pans out, it's in the right place to fill in a dip in the FE208EZ's response at the same location. It's always nice to have complementary response..
Here's an old working sim I kluged by abusing Martin King's old 'sections' sheet. There's no consideration of the effect of slot exit, but it gives an idea. (ignore the early working name... )
It would be interesting to see how X's much more comprehensive akabak sim compares. If the slight peak at 4-600 pans out, it's in the right place to fill in a dip in the FE208EZ's response at the same location. It's always nice to have complementary response..
Very generally speaking, I find that 8" full ranges do better at recreating lifelike dynamics, but 6" ones tend to be sweeter sounding. So six of one, half dozen of the other...
the prototype Karlsonator 6 sounds good with a de-whizzered FE164 and also with the excellent and extended treble F6 L Cao. TheJessMan's graph of Karlsonator 8 looks very good and probably would be better if he used light fill in the stub rather than lining.
The Karlsonator 12 makes the usually weak and wimpy 12lta sound so good in comparison to reflex and open baffle that I'm hesitant to try other drivers.
Karlsonator 6 prototype
The Karlsonator 12 makes the usually weak and wimpy 12lta sound so good in comparison to reflex and open baffle that I'm hesitant to try other drivers.
Karlsonator 6 prototype
the prototype Karlsonator 6 sounds good with a de-whizzered FE164 and also with the excellent and extended treble F6 L Cao. TheJessMan's graph of Karlsonator 8 looks very good and probably would be better if he used light fill in the stub rather than lining.
The Karlsonator 12 makes the usually weak and wimpy 12lta sound so good in comparison to reflex and open baffle that I'm hesitant to try other drivers.
Karlsonator 6 prototype
Would the Vifa TC9FD-18-08 3-1/2" Full Range Paper Cone Woofer be the best speaker in a 6 or 8 inch speaker?
mini Karlsonataor for Aura NS-3's
Prezden,
The NS-3's can work well if you double them up in parallel in a 0.53x scale height and depth and 0.45x in width. Make the K aperture go up to a cusp rather than a slot for smooth flat bass response. Looks pretty good.
Prezden,
The NS-3's can work well if you double them up in parallel in a 0.53x scale height and depth and 0.45x in width. Make the K aperture go up to a cusp rather than a slot for smooth flat bass response. Looks pretty good.
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Thanks X- I would like to stick to the smaller single driver size so may order a pair of Vifa TC9FD instead and build to the same specs you posted way back at the beginning. I believe the Vifa TC9FD is the same as the Peerless TC9FD that sell at Solen for 14 bucks each. Or is there another option in the $20 range that would work well. I have used a couple TB- W3's but don't know how they would work in the Mini Karlsonator. Any suggestions?
Thanks again for all your help!
Thanks again for all your help!
Well guys, many moons have passed since I started this project.... I bought a new house, had a kid, and now I finally have some free time again to build!!!
The plywood is beechply, simply because that's all I can get at a reasonable price. It is CNC cut however, which saves me a lot of time!
It is still a toss-up between the Seas FA22RC-Z and the Fostex FE203En-S for the driver...
They both have merits but I feel the Seas might just be the better fit.
More pics to come as the glueing and clamping begins!!
The plywood is beechply, simply because that's all I can get at a reasonable price. It is CNC cut however, which saves me a lot of time!
It is still a toss-up between the Seas FA22RC-Z and the Fostex FE203En-S for the driver...
They both have merits but I feel the Seas might just be the better fit.
More pics to come as the glueing and clamping begins!!
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You let little stuff like that get in the way of your DIY speaker building?
LOL. Congratulations... That really is a pretty driver. Actually both drivers are pretty cool. I would want to try both if possible.
I suspect you can use the same cutout for either. Looks like the minimum hole for the Seas is 188mm, and the minimum for the Fostex is 183mm. They both have wide enough flanges you could probably get away with the same hole size, though the screw holes are probably different.
BTW, compared to the 'full size' Karlsonator 12, the Karlsonator 8 is: 86%D 79%W, 90%H. (might want to double check that, I did it in a rush)
Thanks Greg!
Yeah, I looked up the cutouts for both drivers and was torn.
I was planning to flush-mount the Seas but if I just went with surface-mount I could just drill two different patterns on two different axes and try them both...
Can anyone comment on diffraction issues with a fullrange and a Karlson enclosure with regards to flush/surface-mount?
Is there a smilie for "in over your head?"
Yeah, I looked up the cutouts for both drivers and was torn.
I was planning to flush-mount the Seas but if I just went with surface-mount I could just drill two different patterns on two different axes and try them both...
Can anyone comment on diffraction issues with a fullrange and a Karlson enclosure with regards to flush/surface-mount?
Is there a smilie for "in over your head?"
TC9FD & 4FE35-8 Combo in Same 0.53x scale Karlsonator
I got a request from a member to see what would happen if a TC9FD and a Faital Pro 4FE35 were to be used in the same cabinet. It is an interesting question and I think there may be an advantage from the standpoint that the improved efficiency (sensitivity) of the 4FE35 may help overall SPL and reduce the saddle between the lower bass peak and the mid-bass. More importantly, I think that the TC9FD has a better smoothness of the HF's. So what I would do is place the TC9FD in the lower position so that the HF's have more of an effect as they can escape the aperture in a direct radiator mode, and the 4FE-35 will have to principally, escape through the K-aperture. The TC9FD is also more pleasant to look at with a nice bezel compared to the 4FE35's industrial stamped steel ears hanging out. Wire both 8 ohm drivers in parallel for nominal 4 ohm speaker.
Here is the TC9FD and 4FE35-8 combo:
Here is the 4FE35-8 x qnty 2:
Here is the TC9FD x qnty 2:
Anyhow, it seems worth a try...
I got a request from a member to see what would happen if a TC9FD and a Faital Pro 4FE35 were to be used in the same cabinet. It is an interesting question and I think there may be an advantage from the standpoint that the improved efficiency (sensitivity) of the 4FE35 may help overall SPL and reduce the saddle between the lower bass peak and the mid-bass. More importantly, I think that the TC9FD has a better smoothness of the HF's. So what I would do is place the TC9FD in the lower position so that the HF's have more of an effect as they can escape the aperture in a direct radiator mode, and the 4FE-35 will have to principally, escape through the K-aperture. The TC9FD is also more pleasant to look at with a nice bezel compared to the 4FE35's industrial stamped steel ears hanging out. Wire both 8 ohm drivers in parallel for nominal 4 ohm speaker.
Here is the TC9FD and 4FE35-8 combo:
Here is the 4FE35-8 x qnty 2:
Here is the TC9FD x qnty 2:
Anyhow, it seems worth a try...
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