TPA3116D2 Amp

You want Vcc/2 (as it is commonly labeled) to be AC referenced to GND, not AC referenced to a capacitive divider resulting in half of any and all noise on the supply lines.

Makes sense?

Makes sense - so I should flip C26/C28/C30/C32/C34 from being referenced to VGND and change it to normal GND if I want to keep the voltage bypass on the op-amps.

Should I delete C27/C29/C31/C33/C35? Perhaps I should just keep one or two in order to maintain bypass on VGND on the various portions of the board... Thanks again for the help!
 
Also, I've seen arguments for having the series resistor in the virtual ground generator (R21) in front of and behind the feedback. Currently, I have the feedback listed as AFTER the series resistor because I was thinking that the op-amp would compensate for any voltage droop occurring across the series resistor. Should I change this?
 
Ca someone make, for red YJ board, labeled picture. Like one in wiki.
tpa3116_yj_blue-black_label_v2.0.jpg
 
Also, I've seen arguments for having the series resistor in the virtual ground generator (R21) in front of and behind the feedback. Currently, I have the feedback listed as AFTER the series resistor because I was thinking that the op-amp would compensate for any voltage droop occurring across the series resistor. Should I change this?

This should be moved to Analog line Level:

Analog Line Level - diyAudio

No further comments on this thread.

My apologies to TPA3116.

Doug
 
Hi,

Fellows maybe you may like to use battery to power the 3116 instead of PSU or Linear PS. I use 4*12 Vdc battery connected in series and parallel to give me 24Vdc. I can play music continuously for more than 4-5 hours without the need to charge them in between times. I use them on my TK2050 and will test them on my latest purchase, a 3116.

Give it a try and you would be pleasantly surprise.

What Ah rating for 4-5 Hours ?
 
Hi,

I've juste received two sure TPA3116 boards.
The stock board sound pretty good 🙂 .

As I remember much better than the YJ 2.0 red board, I will try this board again.

I will try changing the main power caps to OSCON type.
Concerning the snubbers mod, maybe I'm wrong, but I've read that this mod is already part of the design ?

PS : As writen before, don't' forget to swap +and - on out1 on this board !
 

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Hi,

I've juste received two sure TPA3116 boards.
The stock board sound pretty good 🙂 .

As I remember much better than the YJ 2.0 red board, I will try this board again.

I will try changing the main power caps to OSCON type.
Concerning the snubbers mod, maybe I'm wrong, but I've read that this mod is already part of the design ?

PS : As writen before, don't' forget to swap +and - on out1 on this board !

The 330uF/25V Panasonic SEPF OSCON caps have been working very well in my Sure TPA3116 amp. This amp includes the bootstrap cap snubber circuit, so aside from the OSCON cap upgrade, this amp is almost plug and play-ready. KJA 2013 says a higher power supply voltage >14VDC seems to bring the most out of these Sure TPA3116 amps.

image.jpg

Note that I took the 4x 2,200uF/25V Panasonic FM off-board power supply caps out. This amp doesn't need them.
 
Sure TPA3116 amp

Can by adding any of these below components give more fidelity to the Sure TPA3116 amp ?

CineMag CMLI-15/15B input transformer
10uH Coilcraft SER2915L-103KL inductors
Vishay-Dale RN55 resistors
KHOZMO ACOUSTICS 48 position 50k "stereo" balanced Stepped Ladder Attenuator with upgrade 4x (CAR-455) - 50K 0.4W Charcroft Z-Foil Resistor
http://www.partsconnexion.com/conrtols_attenuator_khozmo.html

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/car455-charcroft-zfoil-resistor-p-9867.html
 

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Hi,

I've juste received two sure TPA3116 boards.
The stock board sound pretty good 🙂 .

As I remember much better than the YJ 2.0 red board, I will try this board again.

I will try changing the main power caps to OSCON type.
Concerning the snubbers mod, maybe I'm wrong, but I've read that this mod is already part of the design ?

PS : As writen before, don't' forget to swap +and - on out1 on this board !

Please, may you comment what they claim:

Comprehensive click-and-pop reduction circuitry minimizes noise coming into and out of shutdown or mute.

Does it really work?

Ty