Thanks Guys,
I think that's the driver I will go with.
I saw some videos of this driver in Pensil boxes but not in the frugal horn XL. Can you guys comment how the sound compares between those two enclosures? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?
Cheers,
R.
I think that's the driver I will go with.
I saw some videos of this driver in Pensil boxes but not in the frugal horn XL. Can you guys comment how the sound compares between those two enclosures? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?
Cheers,
R.
Thanks Guys,
I think that's the driver I will go with.
I saw some videos of this driver in Pensil boxes but not in the frugal horn XL. Can you guys comment how the sound compares between those two enclosures? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?
Cheers,
R.
Difficult one to answer, specially since I have not heard the A10P in a Pensil or MLTL type enclosure.
However I have built and heard both the FH3 and the FH-XL, and the general impression is that the FH will throw a wider and deep sound stage. I suspect that the A10P FH-XL will go lower in room vs an A10P in Pensil, while the A10P Pensil might have a bit more energy in the upper bass. I have heard Pensils with other drivers, and yes - that does mean I am unable to make an exact cabinet vs cabinet comparison.
The Pensil cabinet is one of the easiest to build and has a much smaller foot print. The FH-XL will need more wood-working skills and is much deeper at ~23 inches. Planet 10 might have some FH-XL flatpaks - that can make building much easier.
ChrisB and Jeff (Vinylkid58) probably had some observations too - but again possibly not A10P for both cabinets.
Zia pretty much nailed it - none of us here have heard direct comparisons of every possible permutation of driver and "normalized" enclosure design, so eventually some extrapolation based on experience will come into play.
As I think I've said before about other driver models- if you are not constrained by the footprint and required clearance from rear/ side wall boundaries(or WAF) I'd generally recommend the FH or FHXL over other designs that I've heard.
Says the guy with an uphill battle of WAF every time
As I think I've said before about other driver models- if you are not constrained by the footprint and required clearance from rear/ side wall boundaries(or WAF) I'd generally recommend the FH or FHXL over other designs that I've heard.
Says the guy with an uphill battle of WAF every time
Says the guy with an uphill battle of WAF every time
Is there any other kind of guy?? 😀
To be fair, usually these guys have too many pairs of speakers (and amps), plus frequently contemplate new designs and additions of audio paraphernalia, hence WAF gets more critical with passage of time...
Mr. ChrisB - you got mail.
Hi all,
First, thanks so much for your help and patience with my questions.
When it comes to o sq, how does high freq compare on these speakers? Is the HF tipped up and bothersome as on some single driver speakers or is the sound freq evenly distributed?
First, thanks so much for your help and patience with my questions.
When it comes to o sq, how does high freq compare on these speakers? Is the HF tipped up and bothersome as on some single driver speakers or is the sound freq evenly distributed?
Hi all,
First, thanks so much for your help and patience with my questions.
When it comes to o sq, how does high freq compare on these speakers?
Is the HF tipped up and bothersome as on some single driver speakers or is the sound freq evenly distributed?
If you're talking about comparing the the HF performance of the 10.3(metal) to the 10P (paper), I think most folks who've heard both would find the former a bit more "detailed" and "crisp" , but certainly not as bothersome as say some Lowthers or even Fostex in the same size range that I've heard.
FWIW, I'm now find myself in the position of qualifying my earlier comments regarding preference for the paper vs metal version of this driver. That was based on initial listening to fresh from box drivers last year, as well as comparison of stock vs treated 10P. To make a long story short (yeah, like I can ever do that) - I found the paper to be an easier listen during the break-in period - after almost a year of operation elsewhere, the 10.3 metal settled in very nicely, and I could easily live with either.
I find the HF of the 10.3, as with the 7.3, to be amongst the best I have heard and certainly better than any Fostex I have had. Recently sold my Fostex FE208EZ/T90a speakers as I prefer the MA drivers now.Hi all,
First, thanks so much for your help and patience with my questions.
When it comes to o sq, how does high freq compare on these speakers? Is the HF tipped up and bothersome as on some single driver speakers or is the sound freq evenly distributed?
That was based on initial listening to fresh from box drivers last year
Fresh from the box means after a 300 hr or so low-level breakin with 98.5.
The metals take a long time to break-in.
dave
I would actually describe the 10.3M as laid back but detailed, if that makes any sense.
Mine are in golden ratio reflex boxes, which probably mellows them out a little. I'd expect them to sound more lively in a horn like the FH -- though the basic character would I'm sure remain laid back.
Mine are in golden ratio reflex boxes, which probably mellows them out a little. I'd expect them to sound more lively in a horn like the FH -- though the basic character would I'm sure remain laid back.
So would you guys recommend the 10.3 over the 10p?
Most people would be happy with either, i wouldn't say one is better. My preference is still for the paper.
dave
I have the 10p in the XL build and it sounds nice. I don't think you'll be unhappy. I went for the 10p for the slight increase in sensitivity.
Quick question, I have around 30 pieces of very nice 18mm plywood with 11 plys, the only problem is they are only 45cm wide by 160cm long. Will it make much of a difference to the tuning of the FHXL if it were only 45cm deep, chopping off the back edge of the curves?
Scott can correct me, but my initial response would be to not reduce the depth - as you're only talking about approx 7cm , I'd be inclined to biscuit or spline joint an additional strip / block to complete the bottom edge of curve.
Guys,
I have been offered a pair of alpair 10's 2nd gen in silver ( metal drivers ) brand new at a great price, my worry is will these be ok with my 10W set amp? i know the paper are more sensitive so just wondered if these would be ok?
I have been offered a pair of alpair 10's 2nd gen in silver ( metal drivers ) brand new at a great price, my worry is will these be ok with my 10W set amp? i know the paper are more sensitive so just wondered if these would be ok?
10 watt Set....
Hi Falcoron!
I have a homemade SIT-amplifier(Transistor) - at approximately 7 watt. I run my Alp12P very nicely on this amplifier. I tried it with my old Alp10.2 in FrugalhornXL and on good recordings it was really nice, but if the recording were low recorded - you did feel something was missing. My SIT amplifier is a clone of the one Michael Rothacher had good success with her on diyaudio, and is an variant of Nelson Pass SIT-amp.
So the newer Alp10.3 or Alp10P is maybe better suited to a low-powered amp.
But it will function on some recording - depends on your SPL and what kind of music your`e listening to.
Best
Olav
Hi Falcoron!
I have a homemade SIT-amplifier(Transistor) - at approximately 7 watt. I run my Alp12P very nicely on this amplifier. I tried it with my old Alp10.2 in FrugalhornXL and on good recordings it was really nice, but if the recording were low recorded - you did feel something was missing. My SIT amplifier is a clone of the one Michael Rothacher had good success with her on diyaudio, and is an variant of Nelson Pass SIT-amp.
So the newer Alp10.3 or Alp10P is maybe better suited to a low-powered amp.
But it will function on some recording - depends on your SPL and what kind of music your`e listening to.
Best
Olav
Hi Falcoron!
I have a homemade SIT-amplifier(Transistor) - at approximately 7 watt. I run my Alp12P very nicely on this amplifier. I tried it with my old Alp10.2 in FrugalhornXL and on good recordings it was really nice, but if the recording were low recorded - you did feel something was missing. My SIT amplifier is a clone of the one Michael Rothacher had good success with her on diyaudio, and is an variant of Nelson Pass SIT-amp.
So the newer Alp10.3 or Alp10P is maybe better suited to a low-powered amp.
But it will function on some recording - depends on your SPL and what kind of music your`e listening to.
Best
Olav
thanks Olav,
I dont listen to heavy rock at all or electronic thump thump 🙂 i like a more sedate sound these days with Pink Floyd being the rockiest of the lot, i like Jazz, a bit of Classical but not much. Blues, soul and easy listening singer song writers, a bit of wonderfull weirdness too like Howe Gelb (giant sand) Nitin Sawhney, et al so nothing too heavy. My room is 15' x 15' so not the best shape but its a great sounding room with no nasties. my amp has huge over specced trannies so tramps on very nicley. I use audionote E's at the moment but have run the amp with Living Voice with great results. Thanks
Guys,
I have been offered a pair of alpair 10's 2nd gen in silver ( metal drivers ) brand new at a great price, my worry is will these be ok with my 10W set amp? i know the paper are more sensitive so just wondered if these would be ok?
You should be fine for power - but note that the 10.2s didn't have quite the top end extension that the gen3 metals or papers do - to the point that some folks might want to add a tweeter? The new CHS50.2 that Mark is chatting about here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/263266-chs50-alpair-5-gen-2-a.htmlmight just do the trick
but note that the 10.2s didn't have quite the top end extension that the gen3 metals or papers do
I wouldn't say that the A10.2 has less extension than the A10.3 (it is certainly better on top than the paper in terms of range), but is not as refined up top as the new driver.
dave
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