I know the Red Wine amps used sealed lead batteries to power their Tripath powered amps, they got favourable reviews. I built one very similar but with linear/toroidal PS. In my mind the whole battery powered thing is a lot of hassle and investment, there aren't many power amps out there using battery.
Still would be interested if anybody tries and compares to a good regulated linear supply.
RWA also uses some caps and what not to decouple batteries. They've been using LiFePO4 for awhile now instead of SLA as well. (safe as opposed to LiPo)
I prefer linear, that's why I've been designing one. But it has to be up to my snuff so it isn't usual or overly cheap.
I've used AMB sigma-11 and sigma-22 linear regulated power supplies for numerous audio projects. Not "el cheapo" but a very good design and a good track record.
I recently tried 4 different supplies with my new SMSL TPA3118, and the sigma-11 came out on top to my ears. It was previously serving duty in my DAC, so I built up another one a few days ago and I'm using it now. Working and sounding great.
For my amp/load the continuous current draw is quite low. The sigma-11 seems to also easily handle any high current peaks, per its design. Are the monster 12A and 20A power supplies really necessary for these chips? Anyway, a good PS makes a difference.
BK
I recently tried 4 different supplies with my new SMSL TPA3118, and the sigma-11 came out on top to my ears. It was previously serving duty in my DAC, so I built up another one a few days ago and I'm using it now. Working and sounding great.
For my amp/load the continuous current draw is quite low. The sigma-11 seems to also easily handle any high current peaks, per its design. Are the monster 12A and 20A power supplies really necessary for these chips? Anyway, a good PS makes a difference.
BK
I prefer linear, that's why I've been designing one. But it has to be up to my snuff so it isn't usual or overly cheap.
Well I am certainly interested in what you have/are developing for a linear PS. I have a 120va toroid, rectifier/caps and LM338 regulator which seems to do a good job. Not top shelf by any means but cost effective.
The Astron are just super cheap used. A transformer new is about the same price or more.
I think most people aren't expecting the 3116 or like to be competitive with more expensive things. Although with cheap PSU caps and SMPS units you'll have to live with a non-competitor I suppose.
I think most people aren't expecting the 3116 or like to be competitive with more expensive things. Although with cheap PSU caps and SMPS units you'll have to live with a non-competitor I suppose.
The Astron are just super cheap used. A transformer new is about the same price or more.
I think most people aren't expecting the 3116 or like to be competitive with more expensive things. Although with cheap PSU caps and SMPS units you'll have to live with a non-competitor I suppose.
Do you want to share or outline what you are working on?
I feel I have done all the mods on Danzz boards I have and very happy. Optimising the power supply is a good next step.
I've used a shunt regulator between a 12V SLA battery and the filter-less SURE TPA3110 amp and this provides better clarity and dynamics.
Evidence suggests that SLA batteries are quite but only before they're put under load.
Simple Voltage Regulators Part 1: Noise
Evidence suggests that SLA batteries are quite but only before they're put under load.
Simple Voltage Regulators Part 1: Noise
Problem with my amp
Hi all,
I have a YJ blue board and wanted to do some mods. I began by replacing all 4 of the stock bootstrap caps, which I thought was simple enough as a first mod. After switching on the amp, I am now only getting sound from one channel, whereas the other channel is giving off a popping/thumping noise ever second or so. Was working fine several days before I did the mod.
I couldn't see anything obvious after visually inspecting the board, traces, etc. I removed the bootstrap caps to check them and they measure fine. Any ideas what else I can check, or what might be causing this?
Thanks!
Hi all,
I have a YJ blue board and wanted to do some mods. I began by replacing all 4 of the stock bootstrap caps, which I thought was simple enough as a first mod. After switching on the amp, I am now only getting sound from one channel, whereas the other channel is giving off a popping/thumping noise ever second or so. Was working fine several days before I did the mod.
I couldn't see anything obvious after visually inspecting the board, traces, etc. I removed the bootstrap caps to check them and they measure fine. Any ideas what else I can check, or what might be causing this?
Thanks!
Why is this so? Batteries must be the quietest of all sources. Max amps of linear supply can't be higher than a lead acid - think of a car battery with 450 amps of cranking current for starter motors.
Don't ask me why but I used SLAs before I got the Astron and I've used batteries for other TPA chips along with other linears and SMPS. The Astron sounds better.
Nice work Rewind! Mundorf on steroids! This reminds me of Mad Max's souped up Mustang Mach3 from the Road Warrior :..
Actually the interceptor was an a Australian built xb gt falcon coupe......I cried when he crashed it.
The Astrons are not 12A or 20A, not so massive as their specs. AMB s11 is a 8A powersupply if Astron specced it.
Hi all,
I have a YJ blue board and wanted to do some mods. I began by replacing all 4 of the stock bootstrap caps, which I thought was simple enough as a first mod. After switching on the amp, I am now only getting sound from one channel, whereas the other channel is giving off a popping/thumping noise ever second or so. Was working fine several days before I did the mod.
I couldn't see anything obvious after visually inspecting the board, traces, etc. I removed the bootstrap caps to check them and they measure fine. Any ideas what else I can check, or what might be causing this?
Thanks!
A good bootstrap cap and connection to the amp is perhaps one of the most critical parts for operation in that the amp will not work without it. Put the original cap back in and double check your solder joint to make sure it is not a cold solder joint. Check connection at pin pad to chip. This is classic symptom of bad bootstrap cap. A fried or shorted input cap will cause a similar symptom too.
Make sure your bootstrap cap is rated for at least 50 volts as the voltage swing at output pin can be 2x supply rail.
It makes me think of using a lead acid rechargable at 24 volts
A fully loaded 24V sla battery might let the overvoltage protection of the chip kick in.
As i mentioned about 200 pages before i have good success with using three 6V sla in series.
They usually give about 19V - 20V supply-voltage which seems to be good compromise between power, efficiency and sound quality (from my noob-perspective).
This brings me directly to my question:
I have built a new subwoofer.
It should play ~89db @ 1W.
The driver is rated for 4 Ohm.
For now i use a red yj-board modded to pbtl.
When i use the sla-batteries the sound and power are almost too good to be true considering the very low costs for this project.
When i now switch to a laptop-brick that is rated for 90W, the sound-quality becomes ... not so good.
at very low volumes evrything is still fine.
but at higher volumes each time a bass-drum should be played, i only get not so funny noises.
when i leave the setup as it is and only switch the ps for the batteries, everything is fine again.
What is wrong with my setup?
The Astrons are not 12A or 20A, not so massive as their specs. AMB s11 is a 8A powersupply if Astron specced it.
I just got a Astron RS-12A. Per the spec sheet, rated for 12 amp instantaneous and 9 amp continuous.
There are two TO3 transistors mounted to a good size heat sink on the back of the unit, so I think the 9 amp continuous number is reasonable.
I do agree calling a 9 amp continuous power supply a RS-12A is somewhat misleading, but that's why there are spec sheets. Probably the marketing guys did that one.
Randy
I just got a Astron RS-12A. Per the spec sheet, rated for 12 amp instantaneous and 9 amp continuous.
There are two TO3 transistors mounted to a good size heat sink on the back of the unit, so I think the 9 amp continuous number is reasonable.
I do agree calling a 9 amp continuous power supply a RS-12A is somewhat misleading, but that's why there are spec sheets. Probably the marketing guys did that one.
Randy
Google Astron and you will find it may be 5A continuous.
Google Astron and you will find it may be 5A continuous.
The RS-7A is 5A cont.
I am going on by the Astron website
Astron specs
Randy
I believe in advertising too 🙂
I received my Sure TPA3116 and let me say that this amp sounds much more musical than my other digital amps. Really liking the sound. Very happy so far. Hopefully, it will get better. I cannot believe this amp is only $30 shipped!
Audiocircle has a tread you currently have latest post in, cheap 12 supply or something like that. Post #61 there is reasonable for new Astron RS12 powersupply. Poster happens to own one too, quality is not worse for inflated specs, just not what they advertise.
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