Wow, I don't see what all this cap swapping on C8 is about.. How in the world can you know what a cap is going to sound like in your system until they have been burned in? V-Cap suggests 300 to 400 Hrs. And some caps actually go through some real changes while settling in. Cap A may sound great brand new, only to be disappointing, after it's run for 300 Hrs., and totally the other way around, from bad to good. That's why we need to exchange burned in caps with each other. My system won't be done until fall probably.But after I've listened to it for a while with a V-Cap Copper in C8, I' will be contacting some of you forum members to see if you might want to exchange caps for a couple of weeks. This is the very front of your front end. It would be nice to try a few different burned in caps in that position, once all the other parts in your Shiga has had a chance to burn in. I believe this is the only way to tune your Shiga to your system, and your ears. Everybody's different. And until Shiga has settled in, and all new parts tried out are pre broken in, how can you tell what it will sound like in the long run.
Just rambling. Thank you for allowing me to think out load.
LDR on spdif output
hi guys,
would like to share that i have installed the ldr on r48 and r49. this configuration totally beats the vishay naked foils. deeper and wider soundstage, very dynamic, very transparent, images are more stable, sense of ease to the sound, the rhythm and timing is awesome where music flows as it was meant to be. just sounds more natural as well..
hi guys,
would like to share that i have installed the ldr on r48 and r49. this configuration totally beats the vishay naked foils. deeper and wider soundstage, very dynamic, very transparent, images are more stable, sense of ease to the sound, the rhythm and timing is awesome where music flows as it was meant to be. just sounds more natural as well..
Attachments
hi guys,
i recommend LDR on r48 and r49. it totally took thr performance to a higher level.. it sounds very natural..
i recommend LDR on r48 and r49. it totally took thr performance to a higher level.. it sounds very natural..
hi Clarence,
the LDR pad was made for me by Uriah Dailey, i wish that i could share the schematic but it is his design so im not in the liberty to do so. it is actually based on his resistor replacer.. please contact uriah here or through his website at buildanamp.com
regards
the LDR pad was made for me by Uriah Dailey, i wish that i could share the schematic but it is his design so im not in the liberty to do so. it is actually based on his resistor replacer.. please contact uriah here or through his website at buildanamp.com
regards
@Dimitris
0.1uF, 0.01uF is also on it way🙂
@Guarnera
I agree, it will need to mature. I have SIO's in my salas FSP and it took awhile before they settled.
Regards
0.1uF, 0.01uF is also on it way🙂
@Guarnera
I agree, it will need to mature. I have SIO's in my salas FSP and it took awhile before they settled.
Regards
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If you check the lightspeed thread, you can find how you can control the led side and adjust the resistance side with a very simple circuit.
From my experience, they need very good psu. It has been advertised that they work nicely with switching wall pucks too, but it is far from true.
LDRs are a nice way to also experiment with different attenuator values too... Tubo can you try making it a 14.2dB and see if you like it more?
I can comment only on products I have tested and scientificonversion s/pdif transformers are some of the best.
Scientific Conversion, Inc. - Transformers and Inductors
Regards,
Tibi
hi Dimitri,
for L-pad with around 14.2db attenuation, 400ohm series and (100ohm or 96.89 ohm shunt) is needed and will yield output voltage of 0.4V. pls confirm the exact values needed. I will try it when i get home.
As for Pi-pad vs L-pad, i didn't like the Pi-PAd. it sucked the life out of the music. How do we implement your t-pad on this board?
regards,
for L-pad with around 14.2db attenuation, 400ohm series and (100ohm or 96.89 ohm shunt) is needed and will yield output voltage of 0.4V. pls confirm the exact values needed. I will try it when i get home.
As for Pi-pad vs L-pad, i didn't like the Pi-PAd. it sucked the life out of the music. How do we implement your t-pad on this board?
regards,
Well you have to make sure that the output impedance is 75R. Unfortunately I have no ready calculator for the L-pad
by the way, I just received the 100nF Vishay 1837s to try in the laser mod and they are... black... did I mess up the order?
by the way, I just received the 100nF Vishay 1837s to try in the laser mod and they are... black... did I mess up the order?
Silver Micas, Opcons, Blackgates and Z-Vars arrived today. Now the Tent oscillator is on its way and I need to do the 4 mods on the laser head but then it should be on par.
How, does it sound so far? Marvellous!!!
Regards
How, does it sound so far? Marvellous!!!
Regards
laser mods
I just received an older version SFP101N-16P, it has the gold transparent ribbon cable and the 2 XLR5 smd caps are located on it. Does anyone have experience removing these and then what do you use as a landing for the 2 new caps for the mod. I have done this once where the XLR's were down flat and there we 2 very small pads left to work with. Also there is a partial cover over the pins that the mod attaches to, is it okay to remove? I hope someone out there has seen this before and can offer some advice. I think the dates are 2005 on motors if that helps. Thanks!
[camera batteries are dead so pictures later if it helps]
Steve
I just received an older version SFP101N-16P, it has the gold transparent ribbon cable and the 2 XLR5 smd caps are located on it. Does anyone have experience removing these and then what do you use as a landing for the 2 new caps for the mod. I have done this once where the XLR's were down flat and there we 2 very small pads left to work with. Also there is a partial cover over the pins that the mod attaches to, is it okay to remove? I hope someone out there has seen this before and can offer some advice. I think the dates are 2005 on motors if that helps. Thanks!
[camera batteries are dead so pictures later if it helps]
Steve
Hi Steve.
Search the thread for jazz35. He wrote a guide that Tibi posted. I believe all lasermods were in it.
No, sorry it was not included. I look it up later today as i will implement it myself today.
Regards
Search the thread for jazz35. He wrote a guide that Tibi posted. I believe all lasermods were in it.
No, sorry it was not included. I look it up later today as i will implement it myself today.
Regards
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shiga mk2 laser mods
attached are the mods for the laser. for trimmer, i believe tibi is using 100pf silver mica instead of 1000pf. im waiting for my 100pf silver mica to arrive.
attached are the mods for the laser. for trimmer, i believe tibi is using 100pf silver mica instead of 1000pf. im waiting for my 100pf silver mica to arrive.
The trimmer mod is not among the changes in the doc. Erik posted this http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kii-black-builders-thread-35.html#post3959278 🙂
Regards
Modification documents have been updated. When these will reach a final version, I'll put them in cloud for good. 🙂
Regards,
Tibi
Ups !!! Second file exceed forum size limit ...
Linked here http://vicol-audio.ro/docs/VicolAudio_Black Shiga MKII mods_Rev1.pdf
Regards,
Tibi
Ups !!! Second file exceed forum size limit ...
Linked here http://vicol-audio.ro/docs/VicolAudio_Black Shiga MKII mods_Rev1.pdf
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I am using this mecha
The toughest part is that you have no space to maneuver the soldering iron.
I do not remember which cap is which, but if you look at the leads in the ribbon cable it is quite easy to locate and use the solder points for attachment.
The ribbon seemed quite tollerant with heat. I used 350C degrees on my station and it did not even sweat
Don t remove the metal lid. It is protecting stuff. Both electrically and mechanically.
Ok, lasermods + one old idea done today.
The "bastard trimmer" as Dimitris put it is gone. I measured mine to 925R so I took an 820R 1% metal foil and sandpapered it a bit to 925R 🙂. - probably not 1/8W anymore 🙂. Tried to find an LT1086 to enhance the PS - got plenty of anything else 🙁.
Didn't have a 100pF silver mica so I put in an wima fkp 150pF for the trimmer mod whilst waiting...
So. PS needs to have an overhaul, 100pF SM is ordered, 3M adhesive copperfoil is on shopping list. Regs need to be built and installed. Tentlabs osc. is on its way. Going to try Salas new PS for V1/2.
Case and good cabling is on project desk. DAC needs better input circuit or the naked ones was an uneccesary cost. As now I only have a wolfson 8741 with 8804 as spdif input some years old - never used spdif before - only usb. So the usb on this one wasn't as good as the Audio Widgets so this ended in a drawer...
I am going to test a subbu dac if there is to be another GB and in the process to build a 9018km2 - but no hurry with that one.
So, how does it sound? Good 😉. LOL - such an understatement... I'll have to see what I have to do to keep my PS1 on par...
Actually very, very good but I'll use it as is for a few weeks now so I'll report then when things settle..
Oh, yes - took one sad decision today. Ditched and reused the laserhead from my old shiga that I shorted a few weeks back. But the MK2 is so much better so I'll try to think positively about it...
Regards
The "bastard trimmer" as Dimitris put it is gone. I measured mine to 925R so I took an 820R 1% metal foil and sandpapered it a bit to 925R 🙂. - probably not 1/8W anymore 🙂. Tried to find an LT1086 to enhance the PS - got plenty of anything else 🙁.
Didn't have a 100pF silver mica so I put in an wima fkp 150pF for the trimmer mod whilst waiting...
So. PS needs to have an overhaul, 100pF SM is ordered, 3M adhesive copperfoil is on shopping list. Regs need to be built and installed. Tentlabs osc. is on its way. Going to try Salas new PS for V1/2.
Case and good cabling is on project desk. DAC needs better input circuit or the naked ones was an uneccesary cost. As now I only have a wolfson 8741 with 8804 as spdif input some years old - never used spdif before - only usb. So the usb on this one wasn't as good as the Audio Widgets so this ended in a drawer...
I am going to test a subbu dac if there is to be another GB and in the process to build a 9018km2 - but no hurry with that one.
So, how does it sound? Good 😉. LOL - such an understatement... I'll have to see what I have to do to keep my PS1 on par...
Actually very, very good but I'll use it as is for a few weeks now so I'll report then when things settle..
Oh, yes - took one sad decision today. Ditched and reused the laserhead from my old shiga that I shorted a few weeks back. But the MK2 is so much better so I'll try to think positively about it...
Regards
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