Right Tibi 🙂, just missed the >/|| sign on the boards - OMG they are missing 😉. There is just >...
Regards
That's why we have tons of documentation, drawings and schematics that nobody bother to read. ;-)
Regards,
Tobo
Another one about R48/R49. Both are stated 75R as are the parts the links they point to... Could you use just one of these to achieve 75R?
This might need to be rewritten in some way.
Now, what about the puck?
Regards
This might need to be rewritten in some way.
Now, what about the puck?
Regards
You can chose R48 and R49 and can be any value you consider "optimal". There is also pi version.
We left a lot of options for people who know what they want and know how to do.
Again, I redirect you to vicol audio : shiga CD transport and vicol audio : Shigaclone mkII CD transport where with a simple scroll you have all information related to SHIGA.
Puck drawings are also there.
Regards,
Tibi
Well, why would I need the puck drawings if mine wobbles?
The thin rod will not do it for a longer time... Could someone please give me a price on a fitting motor with a thicker rod - say 5mm hardened steel or preferrably 5mm hard non magnetic rod.
Regards
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Ok. Now I see you edited a previous post.
I spent a lot of time making and testing CD pucks for Shiga MKII. These are far better than original magnetic one and will fit perfectly SFP101N-16P mechanic.
Please make a movie and send it to me via mail.
Regards,
Tibi
No, I don't believe you have better sight than me 😉.
Anyway. Yes, I understand this. You have done a remarkable good work!
Now, depending of how I press the puck in place affects the wobbling so there is the modification part left. If I choose to alter it - would the changes alter warranty or are we on our own to fix errors from manufacturing?. Is the transport though enough to be pressed on to ones liking? I would say NO! I would like an evolution on the spindle motor to have a thicker rod as a first step. The second would be a harder/tougher main plate. The original is soft and whimsy... The sled motor is OK but the rack doesn't always survive transport with an toroid in the same box 😉.
I belive as the pucks are hand made they have to be sold pinned to one transport as the tolerances are to your specs the closest to drawing - not the actual transport. If you widen your tolerances then some puck might rattle and you have about the same issue again. The important part is that there is an issue and you have to confirm it and have a plan of how to cope with it. Don't you agree? I have no other solution to this than that every puck is made for a specific transport or turntable if you wish.
Regards
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The wobbling you talking is a vertical one, not horizontal and I bet is related to CD.
The Shiga MKII puck is a ~50g one. If you make it lighter will not press enough the CD and this will slip. If you make it heavier will affect motor acceleration/deceleration torque.
As you may know a CD is not like an LP and during reading there are variation speeds depending on tracking and disk errors. CD mechanic need to react fast of these speed variations requirements.
As you observed, magnetic puck will press tighter CD and there is less wobbling.
You must know that this came at the cost of a huge amount of errors due magnetic puck will strongly affect first tracks on every CD, whatever this is a XRCD/K2/SBM one. This is happed due the fact that magnetic field from CD puck will interact with optical coils and will induce large amount of noise current.
On other side Aluminium CD puck will not exhibit such problems and perform far better than magnetic one. This is also very audible.
So, you need to balance and choose. Do you want to concentrate on music, or on a possible/probable wobbling which is easily corrected by Shiga MKII autofocus ?
Regards,
Tibi
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Hi Tibi.
Actually the problem is more complex. As the puck doesn't fit my spindle there is force needed. To spread this force to get it perfectly horisontal is not a part of my normal schemes as human - especially if it is to tight for my transport. I believe that is one of the compromizes with the magnetic puck. I would like to have a non magnetic puck that doesn't wobble and that doesn't need force to get at place or get off- easy as that and the small residues may be handled by the autofocus 🙂 Still I believe in a thicker rod and a more substantial plate as it is as I said very soft and whimsy. Now I don't have any contacts to get good prices on strong, non magnetic plates to be cutout but if there starts one - I'm in for a few.
Regards
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As far I see you want a better mechanic. I also want one.
There are few variation on the net, including CEC transport who is based on same SFP101N.
But, the performance we have achieved here with all modifications is far above that CEC.
So, I'll prefer to enjoy music and buy good pressed CD's who do not wobble. 🙂
Regards,
Tibi
So your recomendation is for me to buy cd's that doesn't wobble on my transport???
Do you have the coreolis functions needed in excel to decide at which angle I should put my cd in to overcome the effect?
Wouldn't it be easier to say that your AL puck seems to be out of order and ask me to send it back at your expence?
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Not quite the answer I expected... As so far there has been problems with:
Pinning not as it should - hardly my fault. On transport pin#1 is on your card pin#6. Easy - just have a look. Another issue about the cd door - Yes have a look on how danzup did - great - #1 is GND no mention of 2 and 3.
Broken transport out of the box - your answer Tibi - I handled it wrongly. I paid 20€ again to get what I was expected to have in the first place... So everything else worked - as the new transport solved my problem - agree?
To tight puck - well now I have 2 from you but it fits still as bad and neither the turntable rod or the platform will survive long with the forces needed. If I alter it how would that affect my possibilities to return it? Please answer on this.
You have done a remarkable job with the help of your team!!! But, it is more to it than open your purses to let money in - reputation needs to be there if you are to succeed!
Regards
You can't just take the money Tibi, a part of it must be funded to problems. Do you understand...
Regards
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Not possible to edit but I have one puck and two transports. It fits as bad on both. A scam? Don't think so but not in sync with production of the DA11V and for sure no testing of the actual items that are sent to customers.
So, I believe the community realy needs an answer on this from Vicol Audio. I presume that the company understands that there are more to success than selling?
I'll Put this to Vicol Audio as well - EU - nice in this case...
Regards
So, I believe the community realy needs an answer on this from Vicol Audio. I presume that the company understands that there are more to success than selling?
I'll Put this to Vicol Audio as well - EU - nice in this case...
Regards
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Turbon,
I do not have a problem in sending you a CD puck, but before to do so I need to understand your problem. It took two pages to conclude that you have tight CD puck.
If you look in CD mechanic datasheet you'll see that there are some tolerances.
Beside the fact you are continuous unhappy with a DIY product, you address this to me with trolling language which I do not agree. Therefore, until you'll learn to speak I chose to close communication with you.
Regards,
Tibi
I do not have a problem in sending you a CD puck, but before to do so I need to understand your problem. It took two pages to conclude that you have tight CD puck.
If you look in CD mechanic datasheet you'll see that there are some tolerances.
Beside the fact you are continuous unhappy with a DIY product, you address this to me with trolling language which I do not agree. Therefore, until you'll learn to speak I chose to close communication with you.
Regards,
Tibi
Well, the answer is not depending on my issues but issues in general where instructions or components bought doesn't work. Everything so far has been on the customers budget.
So far - well done but Vicol Audio needs to rise and show they are up to it.
Regards
kit transformer
The transformer I've received in my shiga kit is not the same as on the wiring diagram
Please help to connect it right.
The transformer I've received in my shiga kit is not the same as on the wiring diagram
Please help to connect it right.
Please Tibi, elaborate on the trolling language. I need to learn so I understand what is out of order.
Thank you.
🙂 Continuously unhappy? It sings as angels! But there is according to your words even more - so the first step is to get the CD lateral so wobbling was not an option I bought. Of course I was unhappy with the first transport "pristine" as you called it as all of your products are according to you. 2 teeths missing when I took it out of the box and according to you I broke it... How do you think that affects my feelings about Vicol Audio? Can You see it Tibi? I am long from unhappy but the things you send out - be sure of that they are pristine when you get them - when you test them and be extra sure that you pack them well - if they are pristine when the customer gets them - then and only then have you succeded.
I am happy but trying to solve issues that the seller should have fixed - that part I'm unhappy with and want to get resolved without work or money from me...
Regards
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The transformer I've received in my shiga kit is not the same as on the wiring diagram
Please help to connect it right.
There are two 115V primary black - brown wires.
For 220V connect middle black+brown wires together in order to get two primaries in series.
For 110V leave one pair black-brown isolated or cut them, but be sure these are not in short or touch anything else.
Secondary is blue - white - blue ==>> 10Vac - 0Vgnd - 10Vac.
The yellow-green is shielding and you may want to connect to the white.
Regards,
Tibi