Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

what are you guys using as dac for this transport?

Hi tubo.

For now an cheapo DIY wm8741 upsampling DAC with SPDIF thru a DIR9001 from a guy named heartwinter... I have a wm8804 module I'll test also. Well, the PCB was cheap, otherwise very good parts... In the pipe is the cheap 9018km2 dac from syllable (he must be heartwinters twin - just as arrogant).

The sound is good and will hopefully be better with the mods described in this thread. 🙂

Regards
 
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So, where do the micas go?

Order is waiting to be completed...

Meanwhile I tried the wm8804 - broadend the picture considerably... I have to find out if I like it better...

Oh, yes - better indeed...
Regards
 
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I've tried 0.1uf pio k42u2 and k40y9 as bypass caps on the first filter cap on the power supply and i love the k40y9 in this position. it added more body and sweetness to the instruments and voices. the bypass cap in this position does play a factor on sound quality.
 
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$_12.JPG

This item is posted old version SFP101-16P for sale ebay. Without 101N can it be 16 pin? Will it work with your configuration? I did ask for clarification from seller. searchmeonline has one image only(above). Any experience anyone with this device?
Thanks!
Steve
 
I have not tried that yet...is mica on the two Vishay spots better sounding...what are your results AMIGO 😀

How about bandwith ...........?

Damn we have checked opposite directions with no direct reference spot to compare 🙂

I have checked a cheap 100nF vishay BC on the laser decoupling spot but not 1837.

The 1nF mica was better in my brief test, although it is big and it does not allow the sled to go all the way to the end on some CDs. I will get back to that spot again...

On the other three positions I went directly for 1nF mica.

Oh and I am using a 10nF silver mica on C11.

I am quite happy with the transport now, although I cannot be sure until I try the 1837... you don t know if there s something better until you hear it...

So far... best sound ever from my CD...
 
Yesterday I switched to separate V1 and V2, using two LM117 tracking pre-reg + reg combos, like in the schematic I posted a while back. Just using only two red leds for the 5V reference, instead of 3 leds and 2 diodes for the 8V reference.

422108d1401896259-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-117_tpr.jpg


Nominal results are about 100dB of line rejection mostly coming from the tracking pre-reg, and separate load rejection from the second chip.

Cost including a heatsink that acts mostly as a chassis is around 10euros

Excellent results with big improvement in dynamics and microdetails.
 
Tibi
Please confirm
To use an external clock with its own regulator. I just remove the clock on the board, use the ext clock pin for the new clock and grnd the clock signal to the grnd side of the c57 or C58 cap. For the power, I get the 8V from the pad with the V1-V4, and power grnd to the input grnd on J6 or to the grnd for the minireg.
Is this OK?

Thanks
 
Tibi
Please confirm
To use an external clock with its own regulator. I just remove the clock on the board, use the ext clock pin for the new clock and grnd the clock signal to the grnd side of the c57 or C58 cap. For the power, I get the 8V from the pad with the V1-V4, and power grnd to the input grnd on J6 or to the grnd for the minireg.
Is this OK?

Thanks

To use an external clock with its own regulator you need to remove C57, C58, Citizen XO.
External clock must be 16.9344MHz and 5V TTL-CMOS logic compatible.
If you have a low jitter clock powered from 3.3V, it may probably not work, or will generate more jitter than stock oscillator.
On the board is an external clock pad - XO3. Because you power your regulator from main 8V, GND will go trough J6. DO NOT CONNECT another GND at the clock because you make a huge ground loop who will ruin all your low jitter clock.
Use 8V from the pad with the V1-V4 ONLY if your external regulator is LDO.

Regards,
Tibi
 
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Now, woow and holy sh*t effects. How does yer trannys or if you like drivelines look like?

What kind of systems do one need to get the effects thru to free air and mi ears? Before I can start testing I need my old original transport working... In the meantime I'll watch your progress and learn 🙂 or maybe 🙁

Ok, I'll start as the one who asked.

Shiga -> "High Performance WM8741 Upsampling DAC - spdif thru WM8804" (for now) -> Mesmerize -> refurbished QUAD 303's -> Linn Kans V2 (refurbished by an expert - me 🙂 )

The sound I'm striving for is for myself - not for anyone to gasp over or to melt honey into anyones ears - purely to my own satisfaction. I hope it's the same or you greater flock of amigowannabes 😉 (as miself). So our mileages may vary of what is the best.

Regards
 
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Shiga MKII -->> 1.5m Furutech FX-Alpha-Ag for S/PDIF -->> Quad CS4398 DAC with output trafo -->> Vicol-Audio Silver-Gold interconnect --> Quasar Q17 amplifier -->> Vicol-Audio High density speaker cable -->> highly modified B&W speakers.

I have also a Subbu V2 DAC mounted by DanZup, an ESS9018S DAC, a pair of Triangle Genese Quartet, a pair of Vienna-Audio Beethoven.

Regards,
Tibi