I am involved with a project to build a crazy high end audio listening room. The pour in place concrete room is going to have concrete boxes as part of the foundation to put 5 subwoofers in. These will compliment a YG Acoustics top end speaker system.
It seems building subwoofers is the best choice as using the concrete foundation as the enclosure seems pretty good. We would pour concrete to the correct dimension required. Extremely good amps would be located by each woofer to drive each one. The 5 are spead out over the room in well modeled locations.
So... The question is what driver. Im interested in suggestions. Price is no object. Performance is what counts. The bottom octave needs to match the performance of the YG's.
Some drivers have been suggested.
TAD TL-1801
AuraSound 1804
AuraSound 1808
AuraSound NRT 18-8
The questions then also begin for closed box or ported.
A Datasat will be used to do any electronic crossover needed.
Primarily the subs will be used for the LFE, but as the rooms main pourpose is 2 channel audio we might want to use the sub system for the very bottom octave on 2 channel audio from a 100% analog signal chain.
So... Any thoughts ?
It seems building subwoofers is the best choice as using the concrete foundation as the enclosure seems pretty good. We would pour concrete to the correct dimension required. Extremely good amps would be located by each woofer to drive each one. The 5 are spead out over the room in well modeled locations.
So... The question is what driver. Im interested in suggestions. Price is no object. Performance is what counts. The bottom octave needs to match the performance of the YG's.
Some drivers have been suggested.
TAD TL-1801
AuraSound 1804
AuraSound 1808
AuraSound NRT 18-8
The questions then also begin for closed box or ported.
A Datasat will be used to do any electronic crossover needed.
Primarily the subs will be used for the LFE, but as the rooms main pourpose is 2 channel audio we might want to use the sub system for the very bottom octave on 2 channel audio from a 100% analog signal chain.
So... Any thoughts ?
The types currently considered. http://www.xymox1.com/Junk/plots.pdf
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I'd go with sealed, and somewhere from 4 to 8 10" to 15" long-Xmax drivers in each. Multiple drivers improves sensitivity and power handling, while reducing power compression. The sort of "modest" sealed-box driver like the venerable NHT1259, where 1 sub was sufficient to shake a normal room, should be criminally insane if you array 20 to 40 of them.
For the best possible performance you're going to want two drivers per cabinet mounted push/pull.
Spread the cabinets about the room and have them work together with the YGs up to around 100Hz. This will give you a far more even bass response than simply having the YGs doing the bass alone as having the bass coming from multiple locations helps to smooth out issues with room modes.
There are several ideas about the best way to set up multiple sub woofer configurations, do some searching on the subject, you won't regret it.
Spread the cabinets about the room and have them work together with the YGs up to around 100Hz. This will give you a far more even bass response than simply having the YGs doing the bass alone as having the bass coming from multiple locations helps to smooth out issues with room modes.
There are several ideas about the best way to set up multiple sub woofer configurations, do some searching on the subject, you won't regret it.
Rod Elliott, Elliott Sound Products
Hi there: Take a read at Rod Elliott's diy project list for discussion of sub woofers. Google-up Elliott Sound Products. This system would fit into concrete boxes, however, requires a lot of power as Rod discusses in the project description. Since cost is not object to your project, you may wish to Google-up tapped horns at DSL, you can find some really big low down subs there. ...regards, Michael
Hi there: Take a read at Rod Elliott's diy project list for discussion of sub woofers. Google-up Elliott Sound Products. This system would fit into concrete boxes, however, requires a lot of power as Rod discusses in the project description. Since cost is not object to your project, you may wish to Google-up tapped horns at DSL, you can find some really big low down subs there. ...regards, Michael
If your drivers enclosure is in the foundations (sealed or reflex) how are you going to face the cones to the Music Hall? (I can't think of any layout possible where the woofers aren't at the same level or above.) 😀
No. If you want the ultimate you have to start thinking outside the box.. Horn Subwoofer Takes Up Crazy Man's Entire Basement
It's great to be able to look at something where budget is pretty wide open. Multi sub's have been pretty well proven so that's a given. Personally I think I would look for the sub's to cover the octaves below 60Hz. Anything higher seems to reveal the location which will detract from your main's. If it were me I'd probably opt for multiples of the Rythmik Servo sub's.
xymoz1:
2 pairs of TC sounds lms 5400 18 " drivers in Push pull per cabinet---- of course you need another 4 drivers to complete a stereo pair. You will also need some DSP unit and some high power amplifiers. Just make sure your house insurance is paid and up to date !!!!!
2 pairs of TC sounds lms 5400 18 " drivers in Push pull per cabinet---- of course you need another 4 drivers to complete a stereo pair. You will also need some DSP unit and some high power amplifiers. Just make sure your house insurance is paid and up to date !!!!!
+1
Cost is meaningless. The real question is : is size not a concern . Horns are where it's at, if you can live with their size and presence (though they don't have to be gigantic). I've seen innumerable folks throw 10-15k $ into their media rooms and then invest in a regular bass reflex sub
Hi Y'all,
Everytime I've heard "cost does not matter" the project was either not done or severely cost controlled. But anyway, Dick Burwen's sound room is still my favorite budget buster. 🙂 Just look for 20000 Watt Home HiFi, Burwen Sound Room and Burwen Studio.
Regards,
Everytime I've heard "cost does not matter" the project was either not done or severely cost controlled. But anyway, Dick Burwen's sound room is still my favorite budget buster. 🙂 Just look for 20000 Watt Home HiFi, Burwen Sound Room and Burwen Studio.
Regards,
Attachments
50 years ago the Rex Baldoc horns in HFN&RR a hyperbolic 15Hz horn adjusted so the peaks of the room and the horn interlaced for optimal smoothness. I think the mouth also slotloaded the entire wall so that there was no standing waves side to side.
But excellent 15" units and amps from say FM Accoustic like the FM1811 and I am sure that fantastic results can be obtained 😉
But excellent 15" units and amps from say FM Accoustic like the FM1811 and I am sure that fantastic results can be obtained 😉
Just maybe one note of caution - have you actually heard the "ultimate" you are designing for? It would be a shame to build out something for major $$$ and then afterwords decide you would have been better off with else. With a big budget maybe some of it should be spend traveling about and doing some serious listening. If you need another set of ears to be there with you I might be able to clear some time in my schedule. 🙂 Rumor has it those giant underground horns outside Milan are pretty good!
Yes, probably you can buy all the subs for the price of a single Goto driver... or YG Acoustics for the matter of fact. 😀
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