TPA3116D2 Amp

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#2,604
I would like to order two mono boards to use for active speakers, I did order two 3118 mono boards but that was three months ago and i don't expect to ever see them. So my question is, is there a general consensus on what is the best designed board? Had anyone heard the hi amplifier one for example?

Thanks
 
#2,605
I've been following along here since the beginning ( almost ). With a few exceptions this thread has remained true to the topic, something anyone who hangs out here knows is pretty rare for a thread this long. This is not the subject I wish to address though....

Saturnus ( I believe )mentioned several pages back about the output filters attenuating the upper register somewhat when using an 8 Ohm speaker on these YJ blue/black boards such as I have. My own experience with this board has borne this out. What I would like to see, as my knowledge of electronics is not anywhere near the majority of the posters here, is some more information on what parts to change, and recommendations on how to do it. I have read the TI data sheet, and my problem is that I have no idea how to remove the SMD inductors to replace them with some item having a value suitable for the aforementioned 8 Ohm speakers.

I'm sure that I am not the only follower of this thread who is curious about this. Is there any chance that someone has already done the mod, and would share the results, or some guidance as to the mechanics of the thing?

Thanks,
John
 
#2,607
mightym said:
I've been following along here since the beginning ( almost ). With a few exceptions this thread has remained true to the topic, something anyone who hangs out here knows is pretty rare for a thread this long. This is not the subject I wish to address though....

Saturnus ( I believe )mentioned several pages back about the output filters attenuating the upper register somewhat when using an 8 Ohm speaker on these YJ blue/black boards such as I have. My own experience with this board has borne this out. What I would like to see, as my knowledge of electronics is not anywhere near the majority of the posters here, is some more information on what parts to change, and recommendations on how to do it. I have read the TI data sheet, and my problem is that I have no idea how to remove the SMD inductors to replace them with some item having a value suitable for the aforementioned 8 Ohm speakers.

I'm sure that I am not the only follower of this thread who is curious about this. Is there any chance that someone has already done the mod, and would share the results, or some guidance as to the mechanics of the thing?

Thanks,
John
Click to expand...

Irribeo posted this link at post #2519:
Understanding output filters for Class-D amplifiers | EE Times

The information in this article should be helpful.

Regards,
 
#2,608
and my problem is that I have no idea how to remove the SMD inductors
Click to expand...
Hot air machine or two soldering irons, depends on how much pad is exposed. Best to use some liquid flux or pre-heat/tin the existing joints, then heat at the same time, use the iron tips as a means to remove the component from the heated pads. It takes a bit of practice and using a good board is not the best to try for the first time. First try on some junk pcb, like an old PC motherboard, everyone has a junk one lying around don't they 🙂
 
#2,609
mightym said:
I've been following along here since the beginning ( almost ). With a few exceptions this thread has remained true to the topic, something anyone who hangs out here knows is pretty rare for a thread this long. This is not the subject I wish to address though....

Saturnus ( I believe )mentioned several pages back about the output filters attenuating the upper register somewhat when using an 8 Ohm speaker on these YJ blue/black boards such as I have. My own experience with this board has borne this out. What I would like to see, as my knowledge of electronics is not anywhere near the majority of the posters here, is some more information on what parts to change, and recommendations on how to do it. I have read the TI data sheet, and my problem is that I have no idea how to remove the SMD inductors to replace them with some item having a value suitable for the aforementioned 8 Ohm speakers.

I'm sure that I am not the only follower of this thread who is curious about this. Is there any chance that someone has already done the mod, and would share the results, or some guidance as to the mechanics of the thing?

Thanks,
John
Click to expand...

On the blue boards removing SMD inductors is not that hard. First remove the nearby capacitors to make room. Then make sure your solder iron has a chisel tip. Chisel tips are really really helpful for SMD and tight spaces. Just be careful not to rip the pads off. Adding a good amount of solder as you pull the inductors off helps.
 
#2,610
That is good information. I was able to use gel flux paste and my soldering iron to remove the stock inductors. This is a good test of one's patience.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-231.html#post3864285

I also replaced the input caps and power supply DC decoupling caps. Details for those parts replacements are covered several posts down from the one cited above.

A friend of mine across the country with less electronics construction experience was able to perform identical mods following the same method. As Wushuliu said, you might have to remove some of the surrounding caps to get to the solder pads. That's what my friend had to do using his basic $18 Weller soldering iron.

We both agree the modified YJ blue amp sounds significantly more transparent and more refined. I felt like I had a new music collection as I was able to hear a greater level of detail with a better sense of timing in the music.
 
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#2,612
Hi, finally got to finishing mounting the blue YJ board in a case. This is the first time I really used it for playing music. I used a 12V Rcore transformer, 25 A rectifier and a 22.000 µF 40V Kendeil cap as a power supply. DC Voltage is around 16V DC. The case is made of steel and aluminium. It is configured as a power amp so no volume potentiometer.

First thing I noticed was the hiss with no source connected (even though I used 100 kOhm to GND on each input). Second was that my DAB+ tuner refused to receive signals. I had to use EMI ferrite coils around the speaker cabling to be able to use the amp with the tuner...The case was not connected to PE (yet) but after connecting it to PE the problems became somewhat less irritating. If I touch the output cabling in the amps case the tuner will refuse again. There is a problem either with RF on the outputs and/or it strays back to the inputs. That could very well be the case considering it is virtually silent when a low impedance source is connected. With no input cabling it is hissing way too much for my likings.

Impression it that it sounds remarkably good. It absolutely needs a metal case connected to PE. You can't mount these in plastic cases. I will experiment further.
 
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#2,614
"I don't use a virusscanner as I don't have virusses" ... Same 😉..... But I don't use an FM tuner but a DAB+ tuner. It may very well also have impact on DACs etc. Radiation of RF can have nasty influences on audio equipment (and TV's and telecom devices too).

It radiates like hell !
 
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#2,615
jean-paul said:
"I don't use a virusscanner as I don't have virusses" ... Same 😉..... But I don't use an FM tuner but a DAB+ tuner. It may very well also have impact on DACs etc. Radiation of RF can have nasty influences on audio equipment (and TV's and telecom devices too).

It radiates like hell !
Click to expand...

Yes, Class D amps do "radiate like hell"....Your statement was that it "absolutely" needs a metal chassis... which isn't the case for me and others I know. I've built over a dozen amps with the tpa3116, most of which are not in metal cases. I've also had no issues with numerous DACs used with them,
I'm not saying one shouldn't put them in metal chassis, just that it isn't absolutely necessary. it could be conditionally necessary though.
 
#2,617
I am not sure if the OP, mguntrum still follows this massive thread but it would be good if he puts a link to Rhing's list of mods to soup up the blue amp in post number 1. That is good info and can get lost too easily.

Someone made a wiki maybe we should post good stuff on howto's there?

Good info from Rhing here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-231.html#post3864285
 
#2,619
jean-paul said:
Well, I tend to do things not "because I can" but in the technical best way possible. An EMI radiating device is not on my list of favourite devices 😉

But how to tame it ? I will try to make it quiet.
Click to expand...

I understand your position. My dilemma is that I prefer the sound of these amps when they aren't wrapped in metal. I'm glad (and I suppose even lucky) that the RF issue has not been a factor for me.
 
#2,620
Did you measure it (or did you check with an oscillope) ? You won't die from EMI (I hope) but in my case it makes DAB+ impossible.

BTW my linear class AB amp is better than the YJ board for now. Maybe it needs some extra hours to sound optimal. Anyway, there is no input filtering at all. I think I will start there and possibly I 'll add ferrite beads everywhere. Or I'll give up and just use my linear amp.
 
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