I'd be particularly be interested in if larger TX for WaveIO PS could bring SQ improvement?
Please post your observation if there is any?
Cheers,
Chanh
Please post your observation if there is any?
Cheers,
Chanh
I'd be particularly be interested in if larger TX for WaveIO PS could bring SQ improvement?
Please post your observation if there is any?
Cheers,
Chanh
No problem, that's why I want to use two separate toroids. I'll fit the toroid to the wav10 first to see if there is a difference as we already know there is a positive difference to the DAC PSU, Dispatch is between 3-4 weeks I'll keep you posted
Why bigger trafos might increase SQ
Hi, I stumbled accross this article by Eric Juaneda that tries to explain why overdimensioned trafos might improve SQ http://tech.juaneda.com/en/articles/powersupply.html Great to follow your builds, btw. Take care when (re)wiring AC ! All the best, Per
Hi, I stumbled accross this article by Eric Juaneda that tries to explain why overdimensioned trafos might improve SQ http://tech.juaneda.com/en/articles/powersupply.html Great to follow your builds, btw. Take care when (re)wiring AC ! All the best, Per
I have just emailed Canterbury Windings again to ask for a separate toroid for the wav10
I'm thinking 150va, I will let you know prices tomorrow
I would be interested in a group buy 😛
I am new to the forum, can anyone tell me if the Off ramp 5 can be used instead of the Wave IO and be connected I2S to the main board ?
Would someone be interested to try it knowing that I have an off ramp and do not have the skills to do it myself ? I would buy the rest of the components to try it.
Thanks in advance
Would someone be interested to try it knowing that I have an off ramp and do not have the skills to do it myself ? I would buy the rest of the components to try it.
Thanks in advance
Just some food for thought:
Using a bigger transformer is a way to lower the power supply impedance. I understand that for most people the exchange of the transformer is an easy way to lower the impedance.
However, there are also other factors that influence power supply impedance; just take a look at the complete power supply chain.
For instance:
What about the fuse? That's a tiny little wire where all power must pass!
The regulator itself is also in the way, that's why I use shunt regulators.
Another interesting point: big capacitance in a power supply slows down the supply, it looks like your impedance lowers, but that's mostly in the low frequence range, transients will suffer.
It is not always better just to go to extremes with these different "improvements". You might ruin the sound balance 😉
Using a bigger transformer is a way to lower the power supply impedance. I understand that for most people the exchange of the transformer is an easy way to lower the impedance.
However, there are also other factors that influence power supply impedance; just take a look at the complete power supply chain.
For instance:
What about the fuse? That's a tiny little wire where all power must pass!
The regulator itself is also in the way, that's why I use shunt regulators.
Another interesting point: big capacitance in a power supply slows down the supply, it looks like your impedance lowers, but that's mostly in the low frequence range, transients will suffer.
It is not always better just to go to extremes with these different "improvements". You might ruin the sound balance 😉
Thinking of building a dddac. Have been trying to read up, but lets just say this is an enthusiastic thread 🙂.
- in light of diminishing returns, should i consider 1, 2 or 4 decks?
- was thinking of getting cinemag 15b transformers to start, should i consider any other improvements in my initial build, doing it right first time?
- any new features/ boards in the near future that i should wait for?
Thanks in advance...
- in light of diminishing returns, should i consider 1, 2 or 4 decks?
- was thinking of getting cinemag 15b transformers to start, should i consider any other improvements in my initial build, doing it right first time?
- any new features/ boards in the near future that i should wait for?
Thanks in advance...
If anyone is interested, I may also order a 150v a transformer for the wavIO, again from Canterbury Windings, it comes in at £44+postage or £40 + Postage for 2 or moreFor us Brits If anyone is interested I'm just about to order a 300va toroid for the dac psu from Canterbury windings, who make very high quality audio grade toroids. If we order more than one there is a wee discount. Below is an excerpt from their email to me.
Price for 1 off: £52.90 + £9.00 carriage (UK mainland) + £12.38 VAT = £74.28
Price for 2 off: 2 x £44.90 + £10.45 carriage (UK mainland) + £20.05 VAT = £120.30
Good points Supersurfer. I have no fuses in my hifi, I use NVA amplification which is fuseless. The only fuse I have is in the DDDAC and put it there as this is my first official DIY build although I have been tinkering around with existing hifi for some time. I would love to remove the fuse in the DDAC PSU but not sure if the fuse is called for and it's not there if its just the PSU I'll fry or if its the DAC itself? maybe someone could advise.Just some food for thought:
Using a bigger transformer is a way to lower the power supply impedance. I understand that for most people the exchange of the transformer is an easy way to lower the impedance.
However, there are also other factors that influence power supply impedance; just take a look at the complete power supply chain.
For instance:
What about the fuse? That's a tiny little wire where all power must pass!
The regulator itself is also in the way, that's why I use shunt regulators.
Another interesting point: big capacitance in a power supply slows down the supply, it looks like your impedance lowers, but that's mostly in the low frequence range, transients will suffer.
It is not always better just to go to extremes with these different "improvements". You might ruin the sound balance 😉
I would not remove the fuse. As Doede explains in his psu doc "...Warning: there is NO overload or short circuit protection. Nor is there a thermal protection. For safety there is a fuse and that's it. All under the motto, less is better ;-) A little care with the handling of this supply is therefore needed..." Take care. All the best, Per...I would love to remove the fuse in the DDAC PSU but not sure if the fuse is called for and it's not there if its just the PSU I'll fry or if its the DAC itself? maybe someone could advise.
I could not agree more. One really has to know what he / she is doing. Doede is a VERY smart designer and personally I would start out with the standard / basic design - to establish a baseline. The only thing that I - as a not so experienced DIY'er - would embark on would be swapping the output capacitors, adding an ac-line filter, changing wire / sockets, etc. Right now I can only dream and enjoy your builds due to a severe muscle disease that keeps me in bed most of the day :-( Take care. All the best, Per...It is not always better just to go to extremes with these different "improvements". You might ruin the sound balance 😉
Very informative, thanks.I would not remove the fuse. As Doede explains in his psu doc "...Warning: there is NO overload or short circuit protection. Nor is there a thermal protection. For safety there is a fuse and that's it. All under the motto, less is better ;-) A little care with the handling of this supply is therefore needed..." Take care. All the best, Per
Good points Supersurfer. I have no fuses in my hifi, I use NVA amplification which is fuseless. The only fuse I have is in the DDDAC and put it there as this is my first official DIY build although I have been tinkering around with existing hifi for some time. I would love to remove the fuse in the DDAC PSU but not sure if the fuse is called for and it's not there if its just the PSU I'll fry or if its the DAC itself? maybe someone could advise.
It is not my intention to advocate fuse-less use of this design, or any other for that matter. I believe it is not worth risking burning down your house because of a mistake or flaw in ones diy audio equipment.
I only want to point out at there is more to gain than only using a bigger trannie. I use PHY fuses that are quite a lot better than the standard glass fuses, and I expect that there are even better, and more costly, fuses around.
I recieved my shunts today from Tentlabs for the new motherboard. I think this weekend I will heat up my soldering iron 🙄
To all, General Statement.... 😛
This (the last few pages) is exactly what I like to promote with my kits. They are "baseline", still very good, but room to tweak / improve, if you have TIME and BUDGET. Without tweaking there is still an end-result which can keep up with most other gear out there 😉
And by not making the kits highest possible component Level, they stay affordable for every one.... 😎
Keep tweaking and keep up the enthusiasm!!
Doede
This (the last few pages) is exactly what I like to promote with my kits. They are "baseline", still very good, but room to tweak / improve, if you have TIME and BUDGET. Without tweaking there is still an end-result which can keep up with most other gear out there 😉
And by not making the kits highest possible component Level, they stay affordable for every one.... 😎
Keep tweaking and keep up the enthusiasm!!

Doede
Very informative, thanks.
ermmm on the fuse, if you have all built in a Chassis and are not going to re- wire or changing or do other DIY Actions, you can try without any Problem to replace the fuse with a wire or solder a thick wire on top. JUST listen if you hear any difference... if it is better, you need to decide between gain of SQ or a more save piece of Equipment...
I have fuses inside and they stay... 😉
I have one fuse on the AC input connector. To me this is a better spot than behind the secondary winding of the transformers because the current is lower through the fuse.
I would be very interested to know your findingsIt
I recieved my shunts today from Tentlabs for the new motherboard. I think this weekend I will heat up my soldering iron 🙄
Hi,
So today I soldered in the new blue board with Tent shunt regs.
I also added single ended capacitor output (parallel to the direct balanced output that I use on my amps) so I can use the dac during the next listening session at Klaus his Goto system.
The S/P diff is not connected yet, I also need to modify my cd player for sp-diff out.
The Salas shunt reg also needed some modification because the current draw is higher. The dac runs at 1,16amps now, this is the limit for the Salas reg.
On the pictures you can also see the Raspberry Pi and Alix that I use for streaming. I2S out on the Pi is something I will connect later on.
I will refrain from noting listening results, first the board needs some time to run in. First impressions however are very good, better than the old board without shunts? Yes I think so 🙄
Regards,
So today I soldered in the new blue board with Tent shunt regs.
I also added single ended capacitor output (parallel to the direct balanced output that I use on my amps) so I can use the dac during the next listening session at Klaus his Goto system.
The S/P diff is not connected yet, I also need to modify my cd player for sp-diff out.
The Salas shunt reg also needed some modification because the current draw is higher. The dac runs at 1,16amps now, this is the limit for the Salas reg.
On the pictures you can also see the Raspberry Pi and Alix that I use for streaming. I2S out on the Pi is something I will connect later on.
I will refrain from noting listening results, first the board needs some time to run in. First impressions however are very good, better than the old board without shunts? Yes I think so 🙄
Regards,
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