You are welcome, all I did was follow TI schematic, I wanted a nice board for a TPA3118 instead of the 3116, it would be nice that Yuan jing brings out a board with the other IC of the TPA311xD2 family...
In my opinion the best board for self configuring its rsarvas design, diferent gain settings to choose, design based in the EVM board, wich its more elaborate than TI tipical from the datasheet.
This for your reply and thoughts, appreciate it. Maybe I should explain where I'm coming from.
I have an original Nuforce Icon that is about 12w per channel, running Panasonic bookshelf speakers rated for 100w forgot the ohms. Running on my computer through the toslink to Fiio toslink to RCA converter where the RCA goes to the Nuforce Icon. Anyway sounds great, bought it in 2008 so I'm looking to get in with the times. For a time i was consisting the Lepai 2020a but i was hesitant based on quality issues and getting what you paid for. I still wanted something great on a budget and i have some DIY knowledge coming from computers. I then stumbled across the TPA3116 and heard of its fame and it is more powerful at 50w per channel so I'm considering buying the best unit. However if there will be future revisions that will be the best I might wait.
I have an original Nuforce Icon that is about 12w per channel, running Panasonic bookshelf speakers rated for 100w forgot the ohms. Running on my computer through the toslink to Fiio toslink to RCA converter where the RCA goes to the Nuforce Icon. Anyway sounds great, bought it in 2008 so I'm looking to get in with the times. For a time i was consisting the Lepai 2020a but i was hesitant based on quality issues and getting what you paid for. I still wanted something great on a budget and i have some DIY knowledge coming from computers. I then stumbled across the TPA3116 and heard of its fame and it is more powerful at 50w per channel so I'm considering buying the best unit. However if there will be future revisions that will be the best I might wait.
Parallel Hook up
Can the amps on the YJ 2.0 be wired in parallel? I'm sure the answer is somewhere in this thread but I could not find it.
Pete
Can the amps on the YJ 2.0 be wired in parallel? I'm sure the answer is somewhere in this thread but I could not find it.
Pete
Here
A correction to the original post: In PBTL for the output filter you should have a cap of atleast 1uF instead of 0.68uF.
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These new blue boards seem very good to me from what I have read here. I have 4 on order and am really looking forward to hearing them.
You touched on a real dilemma when buying any modern electronics. It seems that most everything keeps getting better, at least in many ways. At some point you just have to bite the bullet and buy it, knowing that tomorrow there will probably be a better version. If you wait until tomorrow to order, then the better version comes out the next day.
At the price of these amps you can certainly throw them away in a year and get the very improved version.
Cheers,
Rod
Call me old fashioned but I still don't like to handle my electronics that way... times are achanging...
I would buy an improved blue YJ board with 4 mounting holes, anti thump and larger coils without blinking my eyes though 😉
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After reading the instructions for Parallel modifications, I'm not sure that I trust my soldering skills at this level anymore. Since I am building a Bi-Polar Tabaq I think I'll just "Y connect" the input to each amp channel and then hook each output to it's own driver. Should be plenty of power for a 3" Vifa full range.
There is a version used to sell by Audiobah (an EBay seller) - a green board (check out the updated pictures that KJA posted recently), which is readily hooked up in BTL mode without too much fiddling. I know this board is on sale in Taobao. It may be available (e.g. Aliexpress) through other channels (have not done a thorough search). I think someone in this forum has tried out this board - not sure whether it was tested in BTL mode though.
I am very interested in configuring the amp in BTL too since my 84 db speaker is too "power hungry".
Regards,
Non of the amps are bad, Just buy an amp and enjoy the music, don't wait for the component shuffling to finish, life is too short.😉
Thanks, I am still working on improvements.
I added a summer/LPF for use as a sub amp. I decided against a variable frequency and set it for fixed at 125Hz. Not sure if making it variable is worth the effort.
I am working on adding a shutdown/standby switch for battery operation.
Everyone's feedback helps make it more functional.
Wondering if I need to add a HPF for 2-channel mode?
Here is where I am at today, see attached.
Cheers
Rick
Rick,
Thanks for making this design. My only comment with the sub XO is that I would make the XO have an option for something higher like 200 to 250 Hz. These are the typical freq used in a FAST (Full range assisted subwoofer technology) with a full range driver handling 200 Hz and above and a helper woofer/sub woofer. I use this all the time and it sounds great. Another nice to have option is a high pass filter at same XO freq which I think you are putting in. 24dB/oct LR filters are nice.
Thanks
X
Thanks for making this design. My only comment with the sub XO is that I would make the XO have an option for something higher like 200 to 250 Hz. These are the typical freq used in a FAST (Full range assisted subwoofer technology) with a full range driver handling 200 Hz and above and a helper woofer/sub woofer. I use this all the time and it sounds great. Another nice to have option is a high pass filter at same XO freq which I think you are putting in. 24dB/oct LR filters are nice.
Thanks
X
It can be changed by changing the R's in the filter. ? is should it be fixed, selectable or adjustable? It comes down to a one time setup for your speaker system.
I do not know about FAST, sounds like too much over lap or too high a xo f for a sub. All you really need to do is fill in the range from 20-125Hz, where a satellite spkr would drop off.
I understand that people do not want to be soldering R's to play with the settings, so the best is have a selectable hi/lo active filter setup.
If it is changed it to a SVF, 2nd order, then adding a dual pot, it can be made adjustable freq.
Have to think about wiring, if the active xo is implemented. One source, needs to be split into two. I guess the simplest is to just have a 3.5mm "Y" cable.
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Interesting you guys are talking about active cross overs of this type, with these amps. Because I hope to experiment with bi-amping my speakers with a pair of these amps. Eliminating the passive cross overs in the speaker line.
My cross overs for my speakers are 2nd order butterworth. Hi pass is 1400hz and low pass is 1000hz. My hope is to try and match that as close as possible with an active set up. and the price of these boards is perfect for experimenting with. 😀
Ive got a pair of the new yj 2.0 blue boards on the way so I can get a feel for these types of amps. Though im not sure how well they'll lend themselves to being set up with a cross over mod????
We'll see...
Peace
Phil
My cross overs for my speakers are 2nd order butterworth. Hi pass is 1400hz and low pass is 1000hz. My hope is to try and match that as close as possible with an active set up. and the price of these boards is perfect for experimenting with. 😀
Ive got a pair of the new yj 2.0 blue boards on the way so I can get a feel for these types of amps. Though im not sure how well they'll lend themselves to being set up with a cross over mod????
We'll see...
Peace
Phil
FAST really does use a woofer to handle frequencies below circa 250 Hz so that the deep excursion bass duties are off-loaded from a full range driver which can now really be cranked up to put out much more SPL without hitting xmax. The best part is that the sound from 200 Hz to 20 kHz is from a point source so you get native phase, spatial, time coherence that full range drivers are known for, but now with some good bass punch from a real woofer. Below 200 Hz, the bass is non-directional so you think the kick drum is coming from the little 3 inch full range driver (a satellite essentially). We use much nice enclosures than the simple little stuffed cube sats that HT systems use. There are many threads on FAST in the full range forum. FAST can also be implemented with open baffle - where the sound is really spacious and open. A pot for adjusting this XO is probably best. Regarding splitting the signal - really an opamp fan-out buffer is the best choice here. Use a nice low noise opamp.
I am listening to a FAST right now in the Nautaloss Ref Monitor with XO at 225 Hz using 3.5 in Vifa TC9FD on the top and four 6.5 in woofers on the bottom - if you are interested - check it out here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/247598-nautaloss-ref-monitor.html
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Bass is non-directional below about 80hz and below (varies from person to person) not 200hz. And even with 80hz it's still only tones or notes that are non-directional, pulses can still be perceived as directional although generally with a very low degree of accuracy of horizontal direction. Vertical direction can still be detected much lower than 80hz although a typical listening room would prevent that.
If you like to build
For biamping< I have used the Marchand XM-1 for many years to feed amps for an ALPAIR 10/ Eminence ALPHA15 OB>. Its plug in models allow flexibility for frequency adjustments and the gain through it's buffers can easily be adjusted.
For biamping< I have used the Marchand XM-1 for many years to feed amps for an ALPAIR 10/ Eminence ALPHA15 OB>. Its plug in models allow flexibility for frequency adjustments and the gain through it's buffers can easily be adjusted.
There are many implementations of FAST set ups and each one will vary as to what the ideal might be for frequency crossover and slope. Relieving any full ranger of the lowest octaves is beneficial, integrating the sound field so the two drivers disappear and the sounds emerge as a unified field has as much to do with the room as everything else. The addition of a genuine super tweeter (i.e. 15kHz - 40KHz) also can bring a breath of realism when properly executed. Has anyone independently measured any of the TPA3116 amps for frequency output?
For those who got the YJ Danzz board, it'd be good to read Saturnus' comments regarding it, specially if you are going to mod it.
I've used those EPCOS caps, they are not that good. A relatively cheap and better solution would be changing to WIMA MKP10. Not the best cap around, but a good performer for the price.
I've used those EPCOS caps, they are not that good. A relatively cheap and better solution would be changing to WIMA MKP10. Not the best cap around, but a good performer for the price.