If I ever build two more I'd use the cone corrected version. Just because. But the originals that I have are still a good design.
here is my version hope it helps
Attachments
-
xoc 1 design letters full.jpg94 KB · Views: 987
-
xoc 1 design side confirm.jpg66.1 KB · Views: 938
-
xoc 1 design side top view .jpg79.9 KB · Views: 944
-
xoc 1 design angles drawing components.jpg94.6 KB · Views: 897
-
xoc 1 design side measures.jpg41 KB · Views: 865
-
xoc 1 design front vew.jpg51.2 KB · Views: 425
The Danley cabinet doesn't have it.
It also doesn't have reflectors m,L, or k.
But has added bracing.
Take that with a grain of salt. Do what you want to your own cabinet.
It also doesn't have reflectors m,L, or k.
But has added bracing.
Take that with a grain of salt. Do what you want to your own cabinet.
Last edited:
Just curious but why is the correction method better than the disc?
I like the Xoc1 correction method because it utilizes the space bender while extending the horn path a bit. BUT it seems like the discs would provide better equal pressure across the cone as opposed to the method seen above. I will be building the drawing posted above in the near future but without the S1 addition.
I like the Xoc1 correction method because it utilizes the space bender while extending the horn path a bit. BUT it seems like the discs would provide better equal pressure across the cone as opposed to the method seen above. I will be building the drawing posted above in the near future but without the S1 addition.
I am very interested in what chrapladm builds and what drivers you use. My othorn build fell through due to cashflow issues and more pressing investments so I am now turning to the TH18 (missed out on 21inch driver sales). Right now my lighting rig needs more equipment/investment but these will be the next thing to start buying/building.
If these are good to 250hz I may match them up with some Danley SH95-HO's for my mobile rig.
If these are good to 250hz I may match them up with some Danley SH95-HO's for my mobile rig.
theres a reason the danley labs charts for their th118 only go to 200hz, and even then you have to deal with a 7db spike (around 150), and the phase starts to go wonky
Are you saying that is also true of this th18? from the response graph on page one it indicates a possibility for up to 240ish, but I could very well be misinterpreting.
we've agreed that the th18 (particularly the most recent) is VERY close to the danley box. I dont think you can expect *better* performance out of this box in comparison to the danley box.
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/danley/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/TH-118-spec-sheet2.pdf
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/danley/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/TH-118-spec-sheet2.pdf
Ok, then not a good idea to pair with the sh95ho, sm80 it is. Although the spec sheet does say -4db 35 to 250hz but phase isnt good.
Last edited:
I mean... with eq, you could give it a shot, I just would never run subs that high (narrowing dispersion, poor coupling due to shorter wavelengths, easily locate-able, highly directional in the upper freqs ).
Panel q
Those look just like the ones I built! AND they preform well!
Some have said you don't need the corner reflectors,but air is like water and I think water will flow better with them in the corners,
Do brace inside and make big holes in the braces,I built 2 cabinets and the one with bigger holes did sound lower and deeper at low freq. I am thinking the braces divide the horn if small holes are in the braces kinda like 2 horns?
I believe it "Q" should be 15 and 1/2 inches from the edge of the cabinet,or that's where I have mine at that gives a widening opening around the edge of Q,as drawn ,it looks like it constricts the flow there,😱Measure around the bend form the end of Q as long as it progresses bigger it's good.
The piece at S1 I believe helps move the positive push from the woofer forward down the horn ,if not there, would the front waves not stagnate because they would bounce back,maybe a comment from someone who knows?
Just my 2 cents,Good luck!!!!!!
Regards,
NS😀
🙂eyeballing stewin's model,it looks like pannel Q is too long.
Those look just like the ones I built! AND they preform well!
Some have said you don't need the corner reflectors,but air is like water and I think water will flow better with them in the corners,
Do brace inside and make big holes in the braces,I built 2 cabinets and the one with bigger holes did sound lower and deeper at low freq. I am thinking the braces divide the horn if small holes are in the braces kinda like 2 horns?
I believe it "Q" should be 15 and 1/2 inches from the edge of the cabinet,or that's where I have mine at that gives a widening opening around the edge of Q,as drawn ,it looks like it constricts the flow there,😱Measure around the bend form the end of Q as long as it progresses bigger it's good.
The piece at S1 I believe helps move the positive push from the woofer forward down the horn ,if not there, would the front waves not stagnate because they would bounce back,maybe a comment from someone who knows?
Just my 2 cents,Good luck!!!!!!
Regards,
NS😀
Attachments
Last edited:
I thought corner reflectors take away from the initial volume of the horn? I would think you would have to lengthen the horn to get that volume back.
Air is not like water when we are talking about soundwaves. The only reason you need the corner reflectors is where the distance between 2 parallel faces is over 1/4 wavelength of a freq inside the passband (will cause coloration)
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Subwoofers
- TH-18 Flat to 35hz! (Xoc1's design)