That's a 4th order BP design, yes. It calls for two 4" diameter vents. It should work well. For pro audio use, I tend to lean towards using shelf ports instead, as they can help in bracing the cabinet.
IT should be noted that the peak linear output of this design is likely to be around 117dB, basically the same as the SS15 slim using a Dayton PA310 driver. The differences? Well, the box is smaller (about half the volume), but you require considerably more power (350+W instead of 50W) to reach the peak linear level.
Another thing to consider is that the Infinity driver is rated at 300W RMS, so driving it anywhere near that for continuous periods is likely to result in power compression (voice coil heats up ->resistance rises ->output drops). So even if on paper the predicted peak output is the same, in practice the SSL15 will likely be louder (the PA310 is rated at 450W RMS - you'll be tickling it only with 50W input).
Where in the US are you?
I grew up in Orange County, California. I just started college at UCSD (San Diego).
This speaker design stuff is pretty interesting. Any idea what you would have to major in if you wanted to do this professionally?
if you want small -- here's this. A pair of them are almost equal to a ss15 in both cubic volume and output. Serious DJ work would require a quad of them. Roughly flat to 50hz, so you won't do the ultra low stuff, just classic rock. You can use your 3012lf in it for a test. You'll get more output than the eminator and a bit of a response hump at 60hz (which isn't exactly a bad thing, better a hump at 60hz, than at 120)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...00-high-efficiency-low-power.html#post3122010
The real answer is probably to custom design a TH for the 3012lf's if that happens to be the driver you are set on. Either that, or PPSL's with big power.
Thanks for that information - that looks interesting too. We are not locked into using the 3012LF's though. We only have that one already, and we could always sell it and start over with another speaker.
In post #10 of the forum thread you mentioned, you spoke of possible using the Dayton Audio ST305-8 12" Series II Woofer in a SS15-slim. I looked that up, and it seems to have lower efficiency that some of the other speakers. So even though it could take more power, the lower efficiency would basically cancel that out and you would get approximately the same output volume as the Dayton PA310-8? Is my thinking right on this? Those Dayton Series II's seem to spec out closer to a LAB 12.
My brother just texted me this morning that he was talking to someone who had an old beat up bass guitar cabinet loaded with an Eminence Kappa 15LF-2, which is one of the speakers that you listed as a good choice for your SS15. If he was able to get a good deal on that and repurpose that speaker to build one of your SS15's, would one SS15 be capable of keeping up with our two EV ELX112's?
Thanks for your help.
IT should be noted that the peak linear output of this design is likely to be around 117dB, basically the same as the SS15 slim using a Dayton PA310 driver. The differences? Well, the box is smaller (about half the volume), but you require considerably more power (350+W instead of 50W) to reach the peak linear level.
Another thing to consider is that the Infinity driver is rated at 300W RMS, so driving it anywhere near that for continuous periods is likely to result in power compression (voice coil heats up ->resistance rises ->output drops). So even if on paper the predicted peak output is the same, in practice the SSL15 will likely be louder (the PA310 is rated at 450W RMS - you'll be tickling it only with 50W input).
Hummm, there is no easy answer here is there? Do you have any idea how rugged these Infinity drivers are? You have used the Dayton PA310-8 before, are you pretty happy with it? They look pretty solid. Thanks.
I grew up in Orange County, California. I just started college at UCSD (San Diego).
This speaker design stuff is pretty interesting. Any idea what you would have to major in if you wanted to do this professionally?
Where in OC?
Yes, it would do almost what the WS 2x12" bass reflex does for bottom, and more top with one speaker and half the power.Any thoughts on a single lab 12 half width keystone cab?
I have a pair of the WS 2x12" for sale...
That said, making two cabinets instead of one uses more material, weighs more, is slightly larger, and requires two trips instead of one.
The OP wants to be able to do two systems, two Keystones would work fine.
The OP asked about power before, a SpeakerPower SP1-4000 is enough to "light up" 2-4 Lab 12".
Four drops a bit low in impedance, 3 in parallel would be cool.
The Keystone works well with a variety of speakers, and can be easily “tuned”, the dual Lab 12 worked best with the same exit size as the BC18.
The dual Lab 12 Keystone is more efficient than the BC18SW125, but won’t handle near as much power, the BC18SW125 can put out quite a bit more level as power compression is far less than the Lab 12".
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/185588-keystone-sub-using-18-15-12-inch-speakers.html
Since the price of neodymium went up so much since then, I now advise using the B&C 18TBW100-4, for a little more than a pair of Lab 12 output is increased a fair amount.
Art
In that regard i put in a votefor a pair of half keystones, lAb12 loaded. Any thought on using 1/2 material fort those cabs art? Dimensions should be about 14x22.5x45, only a tad larger than a slim t39.
1/2" flexes too much for my taste for sub use ( I hate to loose SPL to cabinet flop), and requires drilling before screwing to keep from splitting.In that regard i put in a votefor a pair of half keystones, lAb12 loaded. Any thought on using 1/2 material fort those cabs art? Dimensions should be about 14x22.5x45, only a tad larger than a slim t39.
Thanks for the vote, but it is the OP's choice. He still has not even defined a target frequency response, as far as I have seen.
My vote still is for the full size unit, get a trailer if it does not fit in the vehicle😉.
Art
Hummm, there is no easy answer here is there?
If there was, we'd be all using the same subwoofer solution 🙂.
Do you have any idea how rugged these Infinity drivers are?
They're car audio drivers, built to take a bit of abuse from idiots who overdrive them or use them in non-optimum enclosures. They should survive pro-audio use, if too much power isn't applied to them.
You have used the Dayton PA310-8 before, are you pretty happy with it? They look pretty solid. Thanks.
I'm quite happy with the PA310. It's not going to produce chest-thumping bass though - you'll need multiple of them for that 🙂.
He still has not even defined a target frequency response, as far as I have seen. My vote still is for the full size unit, get a trailer if it does not fit in the vehicle😉.Art
Our T39 is high-passed at 45hz, and we end up not getting anything much under 50hz. It is working ok for now but we really want a lot more low-end. We would like a good solid 40hz, even lower if we can afford it.
Actually I stated looking on craigslist for trailers this weekend bud didn't see anything decent that we could possible afford at this point. I also started looking at trucks and vans, but I really like the car I have now and would hate to have to sell it. Ahhhh - choices!!!!!!!!
Wow, those B@C speakers are monsters! It is something to dream about.
Although I have been pleased with the results using Lab 12s, the B&C are just better in every respect.Our T39 is high-passed at 45hz, and we end up not getting anything much under 50hz. It is working ok for now but we really want a lot more low-end. We would like a good solid 40hz, even lower if we can afford it.
Wow, those B@C speakers are monsters! It is something to dream about.
The Keystone is solid to 35 Hz, a pretty big difference from 45-50 Hz.
I find very little music has much LF missing below 35 Hz, but there is a lot of "action" below 45 Hz in music recorded after CDs were invented.
Harbor Freight has trailer kits, you could build something like the one I built below, and fit a system like in the picture (less lights) in it.
I like the car I have, but the trunk size definitely limited the system size too much.
I also hate unloading after a gig, and loading before a gig, with a 5 x 8 and the 4 x 8 my systems are ready to rock.
Art
Attachments
Last edited:
Our T39 is high-passed at 45hz, and we end up not getting anything much under 50hz. It is working ok for now but we really want a lot more low-end. We would like a good solid 40hz, even lower if we can afford it.
Actually I stated looking on craigslist for trailers this weekend bud didn't see anything decent that we could possible afford at this point. I also started looking at trucks and vans, but I really like the car I have now and would hate to have to sell it. Ahhhh - choices!!!!!!!!
Wow, those B@C speakers are monsters! It is something to dream about.
Measure and fabricate a cardboard model of the largest box/boxes that will fit in your car. If you have a size and a budget for drivers/amp/wood the people here will have the parameters needed to come up with a solution.
Plugyourears...have you looked over the PAL12 thread?
Seems if you want compact and solid 40hz (and lower even) then that may be perfect for you. If not, as others have said, go with a ported dual driver configuration. Just make sure you have the amp power and wall power ready for it!
Seems if you want compact and solid 40hz (and lower even) then that may be perfect for you. If not, as others have said, go with a ported dual driver configuration. Just make sure you have the amp power and wall power ready for it!
1/2" flexes too much for my taste for sub use ( I hate to loose SPL to cabinet flop), and requires drilling before screwing to keep from splitting.
Thanks for the vote, but it is the OP's choice. He still has not even defined a target frequency response, as far as I have seen.
My vote still is for the full size unit, get a trailer if it does not fit in the vehicle😉.
Art
only reason I ask is at that width it should be quite well braced y the internal cab parts. I understand your unwillingness to go 1/2 with the high power drivers, but for a single lab 12..... I'd be tempted.
I agree that if its going to be a "business" some serious thought needs to be put into the goals and methods they are willing to employ.
only reason I ask is at that width it should be quite well braced y the internal cab parts. I understand your unwillingness to go 1/2 with the high power drivers, but for a single lab 12..... I'd be tempted.
I wouldn't. Flexing panels = crappy upper bass response. I would not risk it at all.
Harbor Freight has trailer kits, you could build something like the one I built below, and fit a system like in the picture (less lights) in it.
Is that shell something you built?
Plugyourears...have you looked over the PAL12 thread?
Seems if you want compact and solid 40hz (and lower even) then that may be perfect for you. If not, as others have said, go with a ported dual driver configuration. Just make sure you have the amp power and wall power ready for it!
No, I don't think I have seen that. I will have to do a search for it later tonight. Thanks for the tip.
No, I don't think I have seen that. I will have to do a search for it later tonight. Thanks for the tip.
A nice thing about the Labs is you can use them in so many designs. Start with Welter's dual12 reflex then when you have a way to transport them build some larger horns.
I am guessing the dual12 will pull around 800watts from one channel of the iNuke 3000 at 3ohms, that should be enough to get you started.
I grew up in Orange County, California. I just started college at UCSD (San Diego).
This speaker design stuff is pretty interesting. Any idea what you would have to major in if you wanted to do this professionally?
See if there's someone in your area that has a setup similar to what you were thinking. That way you can listen and form your own impressions. You're on the opposite coast that I am so I cant help you our sorry.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Subwoofers
- Best Compact Tapped Horn Sub for DJ PA?