speaker cable myths and facts

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Actually, this sort of exercise does throw one away from the nice comfort zone of Ohm's Law, etc, and for a second contemplate what really is happening in the little world of the electron: say you have a cable with high resistance at one end and low at the other, and you stick a battery between the 2 conductors, at the centre of the cable ... what is really happening down there that makes the electrons want to whiz to the 'right' end ...?

The electrons don't whiz anywhere they drift lazily at approx. 0.24 mm/sec or slower, so they are not whizzing to the end of the cable.
 
marce, I know I have to be 100% technically correct when you're around - no latitude for any sloppiness permitted ... ! 😉, 😉 ...

On that basis, I shall replace the precise term 'whiz' with the equally precise term, 'ooze' ...

Happy now ... 😛, 😀 ?
 
MITsound said:
I might be wrong, but I view any added piece, (even solder) as a barrier in the signal chain.
You are wrong.

davym said:
I quite like the idea of the crimp type RCA plug, I have a couple of 75ohm leads for digital which use them, cheap and decent enough quality
Unless done extremely well, crimping is inferior to a good solder joint. This is partly because copper is soft so the crimp gradually becomes loose. Fortunately digital audio is quite robust and can cope with poor connections. Grub screw connections can suffer from the same problem so need to be checked and tightened every few years.
 
Unless done extremely well, crimping is inferior to a good solder joint. This is partly because copper is soft so the crimp gradually becomes loose.
Too true. Add in that you have to have exactly the right connector for the wire diameter, the correct crimp tool (expensive!) and the skill to do the job right. I very rarely see good hand made crimps, they are better made by a machine on a production line
 
They use crimped connections in aeroplanes and other high vibration vehicles, such as my ex car! But either method requires the joint to be created properly otherwise it will be prone to failure...
We could start a new discussion, which sounds best a crimped or soldered connection:devilr:
 
They use crimped connections in aeroplanes and other high vibration vehicles, such as my ex car! But either method requires the joint to be created properly otherwise it will be prone to failure...
We could start a new discussion, which sounds best a crimped or soldered connection:devilr:
Skilled technician with correct tool and correct crimp connector for the cable, not something found in the toolbox
 
The "cables do not have a sound of their own" motif is all about pontification and semantics. Strictly speaking neither an amplifier nor a cable has a “sound”. (Except perhaps a faint hum or 'ommmm' sound.) 🙂

The rub is this: if one gets accustomed to thinking in terms of the perfection of single parts/components of a system, one loses track of the possibilities offered by evaluating systems as systems of (perhaps) “less than perfect” components, and that these types of systems might produce better (subjectively experienced or measured) results than systems composed of “more perfect” components.

Thinking in terms of perfection is a conceptual trap. Which is not to say it isn't handy.. It offers one the yet untested security of unassailability in exchange for saving one the trouble of actually evaluating complex systems.

Jacques, I agree with most of what you say here. OTOH, if you take the easy way out and get only perfect components for your system, that system will also be perfect. But much more expensive/complex that it needs to be, most probably...

jan
 
How likely is it that a cheap audio lead will be crimped to aerospace or safety-critical vehicle standards? However, I suppose it is conceivable that factory crimping is no worse than factory soldering. For DIY soldering is the only option.

Both methods still have to be learned, you can still create a bad solder joint, personally I have used both, but soldered joints are my preference🙂
 
Do be aware that commercial cable is cut with a flying lead cutter, probably not a prop job,,,,, in any event the cable is squeezed tightly by the machine right at the cut point, thus work hardening the copper in the cable. You may have noticed this with cheap zip cord to wall wort or other connections, where the copper wire eventually breaks, a short distance back from the connector. Then this work hardened wire is again grabbed tightly, stripped of insulation and a connection is crimped on. Not a problem for we who use our own hands, but something to keep in mind in the same place the other litter is kept.
 
Actually, this sort of exercise does throw one away from the nice comfort zone of Ohm's Law, etc, and for a second contemplate what really is happening in the little world of the electron: say you have a cable with high resistance at one end and low at the other, and you stick a battery between the 2 conductors, at the centre of the cable ... what is really happening down there that makes the electrons want to whiz to the 'right' end ...?
Electromagnetics is founded on basic principles. Unless there is some changing field around, your electrons are not moving around trying to get to the lowest resistance.

Consider your proposed argument with the cable as being a cone of copper: thick at one end (make it 10000 strands if you want), and tapering to a point at the other (say one strand only). The effective resistance of this cable at the end of the day only cares about the thin end since it is the highest resistive portion. Contrary to intuition, current flows out of the negative end of a battery (cathode) whereas the positive terminal is where current flows in (anode). This is because of the negative charge of an electron being repelled by the negative electric field at the negative end of a battery.

When you connect the battery to our copper cone, the negative electric field at one end of the battery is going to push the electrons away while the positive end will attract them in. Where the high resistance is makes no difference whatsoever (neglecting phenomena such as eddy currents and hysteresis) as negative will always terminate on positive.
 
Who said it did? Movement creates the effect. Cables move. Fortunately decent cables in a decent setup will produce such a small effect that it can be ignored. Some 'audiophile' cables in an 'audiophile' setup might (just) give an audible effect? The owner will then bang on about the 'air' and 'detail' he hears, and the 'discrimination' of his equipment and ears.
 
Who said it did? Movement creates the effect. Cables move. Fortunately decent cables in a decent setup will produce such a small effect that it can be ignored. Some 'audiophile' cables in an 'audiophile' setup might (just) give an audible effect? The owner will then bang on about the 'air' and 'detail' he hears, and the 'discrimination' of his equipment and ears.
I believe you did. No one had mentioned it until you said some cable had 10nA of "tribo current". There is no such thing as triboelectric current, only charge, and discharge. Your cables, even if rubbed by a masseuse into the carpet will not have an induced current due to the triboelectric effect. Your charge is on the outer surface of the insulation which means by default, and electric field generated by the rubbing is perpendicular to the electron flow in the cable. As there is also no conductive element for the field lines to terminate within the cable, there is no force on the charges flowing in the cable which would cause any form of current flow.
 
Since I've experimentally observed tribo effects in PTFE-silver interconnects, I will have to respectfully disagree. The rubbing comes between the conductors and the insulators as the cable is stressed (in a mechanical sense).

In speaker cables? Highly unlikely.
As a fellow enthusiast and engineer, may I ask how you measured said effects and to what level? I ask because even if so, gold type metals such as copper, silver, gold and platinum all have minimal free charges, and those that exist are negative. PTFE, while having a large amount of free charge, is also negatively polarized.
 
PTFE and silver are also on the opposite ends of the triboelectric series. It's pretty easy to generate enough charge to create a significant transient voltage across high-ish impedances. This isn't DC, remember- if charges have a path to dissipate, they'll take it.

I've told the story several times on this forum about how I accidentally discovered this. It was quite embarrassing. 😀
 
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