It will make a very minimal difference, as long as the drivers are maintaining there same positioning from the center.
Will be ordering soon. What effect does an 8.0 mH 0.54R inductor (Erse 18AWG steel core on PE) have on the crossover if replacing the 8.2 mH 1.2R inductor?
When I designed the xover that was actually the part I was originally designing for. Solen's lack of an 18ga iron core is the only reason a different part was looked at. Using the Erse inductor will give a .5db rise to the woofers level, with no negative effects.
Pics of box attached.
Of the 8 pieces in the box, only 4 are unique and there are only 3 unique sizes.
Inner volume for each woofer is 12"x7"x9" and the ports are 1.61"x6" (6.5" effective with the back baffle adding 1/2"). The pipes are 1.5" PVC. Outer dimensions of box are 8"x24"x13" HWD.
Crossover is likely going to go on the backside.
Of the 8 pieces in the box, only 4 are unique and there are only 3 unique sizes.
Inner volume for each woofer is 12"x7"x9" and the ports are 1.61"x6" (6.5" effective with the back baffle adding 1/2"). The pipes are 1.5" PVC. Outer dimensions of box are 8"x24"x13" HWD.
Crossover is likely going to go on the backside.
No. The low impedance is 6 ohms at the top of the woofers range right now, that's the important part. It would be lower with the 4 ohm woofers. The mid dips to 4 ohm, but it's not an issue that high in frequency, any receiver could handle this speaker.
Gosh darn it, I want to keep the crossover inside but the easiest way to do that is to take out the internal chambers.
It won't be a big deal if the volume is shared between the drivers, right? At the volumes this will be playing at, and the source material, the woofers shouldn't be modulating the mid.
Maybe, but that's a huge risk on your part. I really advise against it. Looking at your drawing, the area next to the ports on each side should be able to fit the xover if you split it up. Tweeter woofer on one side, mid on the other.
Yes, that would work. I thought of another option as well (slightly more expensive). For each wire:
1) Drill a hole to suit a small bolt or machine screw (M3 or #6-32)
2) Fit the screw through the hole
3A) Spade or ring terminals can be fitted and tightened with a nut opposite the head, OR
3B) Use a copper or brass screw and solder the wire directly to the screw.
This could be made very air-tight, especially if the right washers are used.
1) Drill a hole to suit a small bolt or machine screw (M3 or #6-32)
2) Fit the screw through the hole
3A) Spade or ring terminals can be fitted and tightened with a nut opposite the head, OR
3B) Use a copper or brass screw and solder the wire directly to the screw.
This could be made very air-tight, especially if the right washers are used.
Last edited:
Anybody know the flange thickness on the Silver Flute W17RC38 drivers? Fortunately the Fountek and Vifa both have the same 4.3 mm flange thickness but no info I can find on the SF woofers.
Based on what WinISD Pro is telling me, the way I have it designed now I will have impedance peaks at 20 Hz and 82.7 Hz. Is this OK?
Nah, I live in Canada where I dare not work in the garage yet. I did order all the parts though!
Wait, what do you mean by "higher tuning"? The tuning you recommended, 2" x 6.5" in a 10L box, gives a Fb of 55 Hz. The tuning I was using gave an Fb of 42 Hz.
Just a guess that if the impedance peak went up in frequency you raised the tuning. Still a minor consideration.
I use winISD to figure out what is reasonable or desired. Then I look at what box dimensions get me the volume required and proper driver placement (you already had the baffle, so all I could play with is depth). After that everything goes through Response Modeler which combines the baffle effects, and bass alignment. That is the point where infinite baffle measurements are modified to a specific speaker.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.