I've got a question for you guys, since this seems to be the place to talk about it.
I've been spending the last few months or so narrowing down a list of various projects for what I want to build. I'm pretty sure I've decided on building a couple of dual SDX10 "wolfhorns" seen here however there is one other idea that I can't seem to stop thinking about.
I'm very curious to know if anyone has done a TH using a single TC Sounds Epic 12. I've looked all over and I can't seem to find one. I've tried using hornresp myself, but I can never get it to look right.
Before I spend too many more hours trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong, has anyone already tried this and has a design to share?
I've been spending the last few months or so narrowing down a list of various projects for what I want to build. I'm pretty sure I've decided on building a couple of dual SDX10 "wolfhorns" seen here however there is one other idea that I can't seem to stop thinking about.
I'm very curious to know if anyone has done a TH using a single TC Sounds Epic 12. I've looked all over and I can't seem to find one. I've tried using hornresp myself, but I can never get it to look right.
Before I spend too many more hours trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong, has anyone already tried this and has a design to share?
'Ran the numbers' using published specs awhile back out of curiosity, but that's all I recall seeing.
GM
GM
You're welcome!
Don't know, haven't built a DTS style TH yet nor has anyone built any I've posted AFAIK, so don't know if these smaller than typical alignments will work well at HIFI/HT power levels. For sure, they aren't going to be as efficient as larger ones such as Oliver posted.
Well, not everyone, I've yet to tackle learning SketchUp or any AutoCad type program.
GM
Don't know, haven't built a DTS style TH yet nor has anyone built any I've posted AFAIK, so don't know if these smaller than typical alignments will work well at HIFI/HT power levels. For sure, they aren't going to be as efficient as larger ones such as Oliver posted.
Well, not everyone, I've yet to tackle learning SketchUp or any AutoCad type program.
GM
Yeah, I've been messing with this all morning now. He demonstrates very well how to fold it in half, but if I did that, this thing would be around 3.5 meters long :S
I'll keep trying.
Hi DrDyna,
Once you have a Hornresp model you like, you have to decide on the form factor, e.g.: long and tall, or square(ish) and flat, or more like a cube. Then you can look around for existing designs for inspiration, after that it comes down to perspiration. 🙂
Post what you have, maybe we can help?
Regards,
Once you have a Hornresp model you like, you have to decide on the form factor, e.g.: long and tall, or square(ish) and flat, or more like a cube. Then you can look around for existing designs for inspiration, after that it comes down to perspiration. 🙂
Post what you have, maybe we can help?
Regards,
Well, the way L34 is shown in relation to L12 (Sorry if I mess these up, I'm still learning) makes the S4 section "stick out". Right now I'm taking inspiration from the dts-10 I suppose.
I'll attach a pic of my latest folding attempt, but I'm going to have to undo it all in a minute and start over and move my fold lines.
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Ok, it's starting to look like a proper horn now, I just have to double check all the dimensions...
Edit: Ugh, I messed it up somewhere.
Edit: Ugh, I messed it up somewhere.
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Hi DrDyna,
So you have your starting shape. The DTS-10 (12"drivers) has a very similar layout as the TH-SPUD (8"drivers). Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit
I just draw these boxes manually in AutoCAD. I make myself a side view of the respective driver. Then I start by drawing a roll-out of the horn shape. That gives me the angles between the dividers (assuming the other duct cross-sectional dimension being parallel).
Then I can draw S2 (see if the drivers fit), the back board of the box, and the 1st divider @ the respective angle.
S4 is on the other side of the drivers (in a 4 section TH), and further down the line (either a straight shot, or with a 90 degree turn) is S5.
In the corners I use soho54's method for determining the duct length.
Sooner or later you'll have to work your way from there (S2 and S4) to S3. I have not found a way to automate this, or to get it on the first try. Sometimes it takes quite a few iterations back and forth between the drawing and Hornresp.
I'll attach a stage in the SPUD drawing process:
Regards,
So you have your starting shape. The DTS-10 (12"drivers) has a very similar layout as the TH-SPUD (8"drivers). Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit
I just draw these boxes manually in AutoCAD. I make myself a side view of the respective driver. Then I start by drawing a roll-out of the horn shape. That gives me the angles between the dividers (assuming the other duct cross-sectional dimension being parallel).
Then I can draw S2 (see if the drivers fit), the back board of the box, and the 1st divider @ the respective angle.
S4 is on the other side of the drivers (in a 4 section TH), and further down the line (either a straight shot, or with a 90 degree turn) is S5.
In the corners I use soho54's method for determining the duct length.
Sooner or later you'll have to work your way from there (S2 and S4) to S3. I have not found a way to automate this, or to get it on the first try. Sometimes it takes quite a few iterations back and forth between the drawing and Hornresp.
I'll attach a stage in the SPUD drawing process:
Regards,
Cool, I'm going to have to take a look at that. I think I sorta fixed what I had before, I'll attach it. I'm going to have to do it one more time though, I'm missing some total length, I suspect it's the way I'm swinging pieces around.
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Maybe I'll call it the Tubahorn if I can get the length right. I need to figure out where ~50cm of length disappeared while folding. 😛
Actually just plugged that into Hornresp to see what my bad folds would actually sound like...and it doesn't look too bad to me, could you double check and make sure I entered the drawing properly?
Actually just plugged that into Hornresp to see what my bad folds would actually sound like...and it doesn't look too bad to me, could you double check and make sure I entered the drawing properly?
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Hi DrDyna,
Your layout looks a lot like the Don Snyder Lab12 layout: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/143714-lab12-tapped-horn.html
Your drawing seems to reflect your hornresp input (I added up the length as shown, but did not recalculate the cross-sections).
I would increase-both- S1 and S4, and let the Wizard fill in the rest. I would also shorten the overall length.
Bye the way, what is the driver (does it fit?), and are those measured T/S parameters?
Regards,
Your layout looks a lot like the Don Snyder Lab12 layout: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/143714-lab12-tapped-horn.html
Your drawing seems to reflect your hornresp input (I added up the length as shown, but did not recalculate the cross-sections).
I would increase-both- S1 and S4, and let the Wizard fill in the rest. I would also shorten the overall length.
Bye the way, what is the driver (does it fit?), and are those measured T/S parameters?
Regards,
Hey, yeah it does, that's cool. Just the mouth is on the side, I hadn't even considered that. This is my first try at making a TH without copying a design, although I did start with GM's .txt file for the epic 12.
Cool, I'm still doubting that I'm translating hornresp output onto the screen properly. If it looks right then I'm on the right track to do some more experimenting today. I've had a few "eureka" moments already (OHH, so THAT'S why they call it L34). I will try messing with S1 and S4. I'd actually prefer to shorten the length as well, if that means I could get the driver closer to to S4 (I think they look awesome)
edit: It's a TC Sounds Epic 12. I calculated the width of the enclosure to be 33 cm. I think it'd fit. Maybe I should check that, too. Might be a good reason to move it closer to the terminus.
If I use the DCR, the stroke is around almost nothing at 17 hz, but rises to around 2 mm right around 20 hz. I can up the input to around 30v before xmax sets in. I'm planning on miniDSP-ing out everything under 17.
Gonna mess with this design more today now that I'm a little more confident about my ability to put a hornresp schematic on paper, lol.
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