Best electrolytic capacitors

Mostly pre-dating ROHS, and also used in very hot environments with poor ventilation.
For example the non-pet version of Chinsan caps, very awesome for audio, will fail in a fanless computer despite the 105c rating. Recently, the new and improved version, ROHS plus PET are not so useful for audio but do withstand heat (new version works fine wherever performance is unimportant).
 
Last edited:
Is it recommended to use 1000uf/35v silmic2 x 10 pieces in parallel rather than one 10000uf Mundorf AG Mlytic? The reasons are paralleling the caps will reduce the esr by 10 times and the ripple current of each silmic 2 caps is 1.6 Amps and x 10 will be 16 amperes. If I take just Mundorf it gives only 4.8 amps. But i dont have the esr for the silmic2 i believe using this will reduce the esr substantially resulting strong psu.

Does anybody knows the esr of the silmic 2 I couldnt find it in the datasheet.

I found this kind of psu system in Aussieamplifiers ..
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/nxv101_2_1.jpg

whats your opinion. Which is better in this case?

price wise both come to close but ripple current will be pretty high and esr will be pretty low. Im only concerned with the signature of these two caps.

If the signature of elna silmic 2 is better then its better to use these as psu caps. The ripple current using in 10 parallel caps is higher than the Mundorf Mlytic HC+ which is phenomenal... but if anybody says to use Silmic 2 as psu it would be great.. On bulk purchase we can get better pricing on silmic2
 
Is it recommended to use 1000uf/35v silmic2 x 10 pieces in parallel rather than one 10000uf Mundorf AG Mlytic? The reasons are paralleling the caps will reduce the esr by 10 times and the ripple current of each silmic 2 caps is 1.6 Amps and x 10 will be 16 amperes. If I take just Mundorf it gives only 4.8 amps. But i dont have the esr for the silmic2 i believe using this will reduce the esr substantially resulting strong psu.

Does anybody knows the esr of the silmic 2 I couldnt find it in the datasheet.

I found this kind of psu system in Aussieamplifiers ..
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/nxv101_2_1.jpg

whats your opinion. Which is better in this case?

price wise both come to close but ripple current will be pretty high and esr will be pretty low. Im only concerned with the signature of these two caps.

If the signature of elna silmic 2 is better then its better to use these as psu caps. The ripple current using in 10 parallel caps is higher than the Mundorf Mlytic HC+ which is phenomenal... but if anybody says to use Silmic 2 as psu it would be great.. On bulk purchase we can get better pricing on silmic2

Good question. Ask Mundorf therefore.
Some years ago I had an integrated amplifier from Einstein (model: "THE AMP", internal as dual monaural version) for repair.
Each half uses 19x 1000uF in parallel mode. After addition of one additional 10.000uF/63V (Siemens LL) with srew terminals for each half sound quality enhances dramatically.
Schematic and outside pictures you will find in the attachement.
 

Attachments

  • Einstein -The Amp- .jpg
    Einstein -The Amp- .jpg
    38.6 KB · Views: 1,674
  • C_tmp_Einstein The Amp_ckt.pdf
    35.9 KB · Views: 591
  • Einstein The Amp rear view.jpg
    Einstein The Amp rear view.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 1,632
Good question. Ask Mundorf therefore.
Some years ago I had an integrated amplifier from Einstein (model: "THE AMP", internal as dual monaural version) for repair. Each half uses 19x 1000uF in parallel mode. After addition of one additional 10.000uF/63V (Siemens LL) with srew terminals for each half sound quality enhances dramatically. Schematic and outside pictures you will find in the attachment.
You got more low bass didn't you? Was it overall cleaner sounding?
Did it affect the vocals too?

P.S.
I also like rectifier-3,300uF-Diode//resistor-10,000uF//2,200uF-Cable-330uF-amp (per each rail) for audio amplifier. These have jobs. The 3,300uF-diode//resistor is a filter (CRC and the diode paralleled with the resistor simply limits the voltage drop of the resistor and it also limits the price of the resistor, since a 3w will do fine due to the assistance of its parallel diode sharing the workload), the 10,000uF is for low Clean bass sound, the 2,200uF is for warm/drum/impact, and the 330uF (directly at the amp) is for nice vocals (220uF for more forward or 470uF for more laid back and they must be really good quality).
All together, you can see the big picture. It is overly complex to some and elementary to others, which is to say that it is ordinary or "middle of the road" which is the intention--a reliable place to start.
P.P.S.
Conversely 19*1000uF says to me "warm warm warm" many times and might be useful to cause LM3886/LM4780/LM3875/LM3876 non-inverting amplifiers to play with a more level response; however, such a "laid back at the cost of lower frequency noise" tuning is probably unnecessary for non-shouty amplifiers. I find it fascinating that adding a 10,000uF to this cleaned it up. Perhaps your 10,000uF cap is a high efficiency (low esr) model, in which case it would attempt to "win" the contest of peers and be doing more work (especially speaker return support) than the rest of the caps (the most efficient cap takes on more of the workload). Given different efficiencies, possibly you made a version of CRC. Anyway, Kudos!
 
so using more caps will gives more currents like 16amps in the above 10 caps in parallel case. So I understand using one big cap will increase bass so that the big caps gives enough current to the amp but parallel caps will give more current and that too pretty quickly than the one big cap. It would be a mystery to consider that big cap cleans up things. well even Elna Silmic 2 are also pretty good caps cant we consider that?
 
You got more low bass didn't you? Was it overall cleaner sounding?
Did it affect the vocals too?


P.S.
I also like rectifier-3,300uF-Diode//resistor-10,000uF//2,200uF-Cable-330uF-amp (per each rail) for audio amplifier. These have jobs. The 3,300uF-diode//resistor is a filter (CRC and the diode paralleled with the resistor simply limits the voltage drop of the resistor and it also limits the price of the resistor, since a 3w will do fine due to the assistance of its parallel diode sharing the workload), the 10,000uF is for low Clean bass sound, the 2,200uF is for warm/drum/impact, and the 330uF (directly at the amp) is for nice vocals (220uF for more forward or 470uF for more laid back and they must be really good quality).
All together, you can see the big picture. It is overly complex to some and elementary to others, which is to say that it is ordinary or "middle of the road" which is the intention--a reliable place to start.
P.P.S.
Conversely 19*1000uF says to me "warm warm warm" many times and might be useful to cause LM3886/LM4780/LM3875/LM3876 non-inverting amplifiers to play with a more level response; however, such a "laid back at the cost of lower frequency noise" tuning is probably unnecessary for non-shouty amplifiers. I find it fascinating that adding a 10,000uF to this cleaned it up. Perhaps your 10,000uF cap is a high efficiency (low esr) model, in which case it would attempt to "win" the contest of peers and be doing more work (especially speaker return support) than the rest of the caps (the most efficient cap takes on more of the workload). Given different efficiencies, possibly you made a version of CRC. Anyway, Kudos!

Yes much more low bass. But much more clean and tight bass at the same time. Actually better sound in all respect. Please note: my english is too bad as that I could describe it like a test report in the us magazine "ABSOLUTE SOUND".
Unfortunately I haven't perform exact measurements at those days.
I assume, that commonly many small capacitors is a better solution as any few big capacitors, but for investigation this by compare you must use the same kind of caps, e. g. either only SILMIC or only MUNDORF, otherwise you get no clear statement.
 
Last edited:
I have heard mention many times of the superiority of 10 x 1,000uF Silmics (often quoting low combined ESR for the result) but I also found better results from 10,000uF Nichicon, Sikorels, 'T-Networks', etc

I did try some combinations with the Nichicon GoldTone range and the single 10,000uf "outperformed" the 3 x 4,700uF in // and this was better than 10 x 1,000uf ones, allowing about 100hrs for each set to "break-in" - but this might only apply to the GTs, mind you, and in the Class A amp that was used (First Watt F3).

In amp power supplies, the same type of the caps are normally used for C-L-C or C-R-C supplies and rather puzzled by this "rule" (?) - the first cap after the bridge (the ripple cap) has a quite difficult job to do, getting hammered by severe large current pulses of short duration every 1/100Hz and the usual specs about max current capacity, etc, etc are pretty meaningless for this use - the second cap (the filter cap) has a different job and here the ESL, ESR, rising impedance/freq, transient current capacity, etc, is a good starting point and of more use.

So, the single/multiple "choice" has more to do with how the caps are used, rather than "better" or "Best" (IMO, naturally!)

(Also, when using power supply caps, a lot are chosen for their ability to get rid of supply noise, especially diode/transformer spikes, etc)

... my 2c
 
Thank you very much! It seems that capacitance value, capacitor efficiency, and other datasheet figures are worth at least as much consideration as the brand name and model.
if you want to get more information in detail, ask there:
Jens Both
Elko-Consulting
Sieker Landstraße 123 b, D-22927 Großhansdorf
Phone: 0049 (0)4102 63757, jens.both@t-online.de
found by the URL
Elko-Consulting
Mr. Both works a long time for Valvo/Philips (development manager, manufacturing electrolytic capacitors).
There are several reports from him regarded caps. Search for "Bad Caps".