Hi,
You may have noticed, that I didn't draw the speaker cut-outs, as I don't have the speakers on hand. To complete the drawings it would be good to have the diameter of the cut-out hole, and the O.D. of the driver frame.
From what I can see you have it just like the drawing? I have the distance of the center of the first driver from the edge of the terminus @ 7".
I just moved the drivers in Hornresp by 1" deeper into the enclosure (e.g.: 8" for 1st driver), there is very, very little difference.
Regards,
You may have noticed, that I didn't draw the speaker cut-outs, as I don't have the speakers on hand. To complete the drawings it would be good to have the diameter of the cut-out hole, and the O.D. of the driver frame.
From what I can see you have it just like the drawing? I have the distance of the center of the first driver from the edge of the terminus @ 7".
I just moved the drivers in Hornresp by 1" deeper into the enclosure (e.g.: 8" for 1st driver), there is very, very little difference.
Regards,
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From what I can see you have it just like the drawing? I have the distance of the center of the first driver from the edge of the terminus @ 7".
Yes and in my actual board the first driver is at 7.70 since I cut the wrong end of the board. I think I will just recut the board since this is box #1 and it seems easiest to do now.
Thanks for the help
My next question is on bracing. I took your drawings and separated them out so we can talk about them easier
This board(s) as I understand it is 0.7" thick and runs down the center of the box. Correct?
Same as above, 0.7" thick and is used for the bottom of the box for support.
This seems to be the area that I will use for stuffing
More stuffing but what I dont understand is the 2" typical. Does there need to be a 2" brace there?
Same as above drawing. Is this a 2" board? or fiberfill needs to be about 2" surrounding the box (away from the speaker)
Another very nice drawing!
This board(s) as I understand it is 0.7" thick and runs down the center of the box. Correct?
Same as above, 0.7" thick and is used for the bottom of the box for support.
This seems to be the area that I will use for stuffing
More stuffing but what I dont understand is the 2" typical. Does there need to be a 2" brace there?
Same as above drawing. Is this a 2" board? or fiberfill needs to be about 2" surrounding the box (away from the speaker)
Another very nice drawing!
Hi,
Correct, the hatched area is for the stuffing.
The bracing is just suggestions, by the way I made a change on the first drawing you are referencing, but as I didn't intend this to be more than just suggestions, I didn't post it. I just like to make the braces where I can slide them a little bit to lock them in place, same for the size and location of the holes, suggestions only. You don't want the board solid, if you do you take up volume (again, that would probably not matter, the design is very forgiving).
The fiberfill needs to fill the whole cross-section. It may be a good idea to stretch some cheese cloth over the back of the drivers to keep the stuffing out of the drivers.
Ask if you have any more questions, I may be gone for the afternoon though.
Regards,
Correct, the hatched area is for the stuffing.
The bracing is just suggestions, by the way I made a change on the first drawing you are referencing, but as I didn't intend this to be more than just suggestions, I didn't post it. I just like to make the braces where I can slide them a little bit to lock them in place, same for the size and location of the holes, suggestions only. You don't want the board solid, if you do you take up volume (again, that would probably not matter, the design is very forgiving).
The fiberfill needs to fill the whole cross-section. It may be a good idea to stretch some cheese cloth over the back of the drivers to keep the stuffing out of the drivers.
Ask if you have any more questions, I may be gone for the afternoon though.
Regards,
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Thanks for all your help on this project! You have been a tremendous resource!
TB46 Does a great Job as does Bjorno. I have full faith in their designs after building one myself. The quarter wave pipe is an amazing design. I would reccomend a 1.5 inch baffle for this design. This cuts down on the internal bracing and helps create a much more solid surface to mount drivers of this nature...heavy drivers that have a big Xmax.
I am watching for the results of this one.............
Any sawdust?
About 8 sheets of birch worth...
Sorry for the bad pic, its with my camera phone. I will get some good pics when they are finished.
Actually I have been waiting for parts express to get the epic-12's in. I have been listening to 2 of them for a few months now and could not be happier!!!
Parts express JUST got the new shipment in a few hours ago and I went and bought the other 6
Correction, ive been listening to 2 of them for 6 months now.... I finally bought the other 6
I've been thinking about the Epic 12s myself, but I was thinking about using only 1 driver per enclosure. I've been messing with it in Hornresp, but I can't get it to look right.
Can anyone who knows Hornresp well try a sim with one epic 12, or will it just not work right without 2S?
Can anyone who knows Hornresp well try a sim with one epic 12, or will it just not work right without 2S?
Hi DrDyna,
Post #97: "...Can anyone who knows Hornresp well try a sim with one epic 12, or will it just not work right without 2S?"
If you like any simulation you can find in this thread, just enter it, cut the S1 to S4 area values in half (leave the Ls alone), change Driver Arrangement to 1 TH, and reduce Eg to 2V.
Same basic response, reduced overall SPL. The duct may be a little tight to fit the driver though.
Regards,
Post #97: "...Can anyone who knows Hornresp well try a sim with one epic 12, or will it just not work right without 2S?"
If you like any simulation you can find in this thread, just enter it, cut the S1 to S4 area values in half (leave the Ls alone), change Driver Arrangement to 1 TH, and reduce Eg to 2V.
Same basic response, reduced overall SPL. The duct may be a little tight to fit the driver though.
Regards,
Hi DrDyna,
Post #97: "...Can anyone who knows Hornresp well try a sim with one epic 12, or will it just not work right without 2S?"
If you like any simulation you can find in this thread, just enter it, cut the S1 to S4 area values in half (leave the Ls alone), change Driver Arrangement to 1 TH, and reduce Eg to 2V.
Same basic response, reduced overall SPL. The duct may be a little tight to fit the driver though.
Regards,
I must have been doing something really wrong, cause I went back and dug up bjorno's text file and imported it, now it looks a lot better.
So really, with one driver, it's just half of the CSA...and not quite as efficient. This is what I've got now, it looks a lot better than it did earlier.
Edit: Crap! I see what you mean about the duct being too small now.
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Hi DrDyna,
I don't want to sidetrack in this thread too much; but - when the back of the driver does not fit into the duct anymore - you can add a chamber around the back of the driver between the driver and the duct; e.g.: Vtc=10000[cm^3] - Atc=1000[cm^2] - Ap1=S2 - Lpt=1.80[cm]. You might also want to shorten L12 and L34 as you don't need to locate S2 and S3 between the two drivers anymore. At least in Hornresp that works out rather nicely.
Regards,
I don't want to sidetrack in this thread too much; but - when the back of the driver does not fit into the duct anymore - you can add a chamber around the back of the driver between the driver and the duct; e.g.: Vtc=10000[cm^3] - Atc=1000[cm^2] - Ap1=S2 - Lpt=1.80[cm]. You might also want to shorten L12 and L34 as you don't need to locate S2 and S3 between the two drivers anymore. At least in Hornresp that works out rather nicely.
Regards,
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