IMO, this player is so good after the prescribed mods that it is a pity to use it only as a transport.
Thank you ,Thank you
Got the manual and guide by Brent
Will mod the servo section first
Much easier to work with external PS
Glad to know if SPDIF output can also be improved
Adding a 50-100va transformer for the servo section is the most important thing to do.
Good smoothing caps after the tx + bridge helps too.
Clocking the 8.46 should come next imho. The rest as Ian said will bring further benefits but those two are definitely the priority mods imho.
Running a coax from the decoder out to the spdif phono socket will isolate the signal from some noisy tracks etc.
Lee.
Good smoothing caps after the tx + bridge helps too.
Clocking the 8.46 should come next imho. The rest as Ian said will bring further benefits but those two are definitely the priority mods imho.
Running a coax from the decoder out to the spdif phono socket will isolate the signal from some noisy tracks etc.
Lee.
The 63 makes a fantastic transport if you feed the +/- supply with a 50VA + transformer. Fit 2x large value caps (22000uF preferable)
You don't need to clock the dac either as it is not used when using as a transport run that 16.9 clock direct to the decoder. Clock the servo. Fit separate regs to the servo and decoder chip (4 in total). Fit caps like Oscon SEPC on the 5v rails to those chips after the regs. Once run and tested get rid of the fuses on the pcb as they do not help audio at all
Brent
You don't need to clock the dac either as it is not used when using as a transport run that 16.9 clock direct to the decoder. Clock the servo. Fit separate regs to the servo and decoder chip (4 in total). Fit caps like Oscon SEPC on the 5v rails to those chips after the regs. Once run and tested get rid of the fuses on the pcb as they do not help audio at all
Brent
"Lift C521 at the dac side and attach a 16.934Mhz clock feed from the dac clock using a buffered output - this clocks the decoder direct"
Not able to locate C521, 16.934 Mhz XO clock already to original place
Sorry if need to repeat
Not able to locate C521, 16.934 Mhz XO clock already to original place
Sorry if need to repeat
I've done quite a lot of mods, but it sounds as though I might've missed the most important thing! So am I correct in thinking that it's as simple as getting a 50-100va 12v-0v-12v transformer and wiring it to u308-u309-u310 in place of the stock tx secondaries? I already have 22,000uF smoothers on those rails.
Do'es anyone have a spare jm01 connector off a cd67, someones butchered on on a player i have and soldered the wires directly to the pins and i would like to take it back to stock?
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
Yes get it done. I've been saying this for a few years now. 😉
Or build a large off board +/- 12V supply and wire into the unit
Brent
Thanks Brent. OK, and the driver regs - just so I'm clear - in the case where I'm just cramming another toroid in, can they go up to 12v then, or do I need to stick with the 8v jobbies?
To do the job properly I would remove the original tx and fit 2x other tx for display and output. But cramming in another TX will do a cracking job. 50VA is fine and can be squeezed in. Running a 12V tx will give you approx 16.8V dc so headroom should not be a problem.
Brent
I'm actually having trouble finding a suitable 15v-0-15v transformer. You can't use a 2x 15v type, can you?
Check the service manual. In the 1st few pages, there are pin outs for each chip. You need the XTI (xtal in) pin. Dont worry about asking these questions, there's a guy selling 63 mods on eBay who's been modding these players for 10 years?? He had to ask the very same question here last year!!!!!!!
That's normally done for a reason! 😉
Yep! Connect 1 wire from each winding together and that is your centre tap to gnd!
On another note, I wonder what Zorkai pressure sensitive adhesive is. The only reference I can find to it is that it's blu-tak under another name?
Thanks Ian! That opens up a lot more choice on the RS site. Sorry, I'm still being a bit thick here on which wires to connect to get my centre tap. Could I wire red and brown in the following ASCII art, for example?
|+----- Vsec (green)
||
||
|+----- 0v (red)
|
|+----- Vsec (brown)
||
||
|+----- 0v (blue)
|+----- Vsec (green)
||
||
|+----- 0v (red)
|
|+----- Vsec (brown)
||
||
|+----- 0v (blue)
Oh man, sorry... that's the worst. Thanks for your wasted effort regardless. I'll stop being lazy and try to figure it out myself.
Ben, I'm pretty sure you can just connect the zeroes together and tie that to your other grounds, it will be your centre-tap replacement. The other ends become + and -, depending how you connect it to your bridge rectifier.