Been hearing a good deal with the Technics SL 1200's - Are the worth looking at and what would be a general cost for them?
Hope everyone had a great Christmas!
Hope everyone had a great Christmas!
SL1200 turntables...
do have a following. They just stopped production (that was announced in July of this year). There area couple of others out there that are similar as well, that are still in production.
Personally I am not a fan, however they do have some merit. I think a SL1200 with a hot-rodded RB250 arm would be interesting. There are quite a large number of modifications possible. Perhaps the BB ply plinth might be one to consider (a re-plinth).
Here (in Canada) a Rega RP3 with RB301 should cost around CAD $900 or so (maybe slightly higher). If a new SL1200 can still be had, they sell for about CAD$600 here. But that's a big "if".
do have a following. They just stopped production (that was announced in July of this year). There area couple of others out there that are similar as well, that are still in production.
Personally I am not a fan, however they do have some merit. I think a SL1200 with a hot-rodded RB250 arm would be interesting. There are quite a large number of modifications possible. Perhaps the BB ply plinth might be one to consider (a re-plinth).
Here (in Canada) a Rega RP3 with RB301 should cost around CAD $900 or so (maybe slightly higher). If a new SL1200 can still be had, they sell for about CAD$600 here. But that's a big "if".
Not for an SL1200. Makes more sense to go the SP10/15/25 route if you want a nice wood plinth. And you can choose pretty much any arm you want.
jeff
The SL1200...
... is relatively inexpensive compared to a SP10/15/25 .
Jeff, RJ et al: Unless I'm on serious drugs. I'd love one of the "big dog" direct drives. Sp10/15 or a Sony 2250 (?), either would be very nice. And of course if a SP series table could be had by RJ at a good price, that would be near the top of my "forget about it" list after adding a suitable arm. I still think the RB250 or RB251 is the standout to have after some upgrades. Hmm, used SP10/15, new (or used ) RB250/251, and then a respectable cartridge to start. Should be very do-able with an AUD $800 budget if time is taken.
The key here is time taken. RJ could keep using the CEC table (which themselves were not the worst on the planet) and assemble the pieces needed as they come available. I know there are other good DD tables out there, I just don't know what might be available in Australia as used pieces.
For belt drives, the Sugden BD-1 is very hard to beat (Jeff, just ask Dave). If I make it out to the coast this year I think I'll bring mine along to prove a point.
... is relatively inexpensive compared to a SP10/15/25 .
Jeff, RJ et al: Unless I'm on serious drugs. I'd love one of the "big dog" direct drives. Sp10/15 or a Sony 2250 (?), either would be very nice. And of course if a SP series table could be had by RJ at a good price, that would be near the top of my "forget about it" list after adding a suitable arm. I still think the RB250 or RB251 is the standout to have after some upgrades. Hmm, used SP10/15, new (or used ) RB250/251, and then a respectable cartridge to start. Should be very do-able with an AUD $800 budget if time is taken.
The key here is time taken. RJ could keep using the CEC table (which themselves were not the worst on the planet) and assemble the pieces needed as they come available. I know there are other good DD tables out there, I just don't know what might be available in Australia as used pieces.
For belt drives, the Sugden BD-1 is very hard to beat (Jeff, just ask Dave). If I make it out to the coast this year I think I'll bring mine along to prove a point.
I would clearly go for a 2nd hand Rega Planar 3. Much can be done to modify them, so that they can sound as good as or better than some more expensive brands. (see my thread on Rega Planar 2/3 significant mods)
I will be working on platter and tonearm isolation down the track, but the arm and motor isolation mods are very good...
I will be working on platter and tonearm isolation down the track, but the arm and motor isolation mods are very good...
Which can be found here -- http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/201610-rega-planar-3-2-significant-modifications.html
TigerScent -- That is a great thread, I especially like the motor isolation. Thanks for posting it!
Rega mods page...
6L6, thanks for digging up the Rega mods page by TigerScent
TigerScent, thanks for documenting your project. Nicely done.
Someplace I stumbled onto a Rega mods page. The guy makes metal pulleys (for both 50 and 60 Hz), motor mounts, improved bearings, metal sub-platters, metal platters (and acrylic too). But he's based out of North America.
I do like the idea of re-using the plastic sub-platter and filling it with silicon. If it ever gives trouble it can always be replaced or an acrylic or metal one devised. If any use a tt with a metal platter, this might work well, or you could do what Oracle did and use a thick elastic band.
To all: if a heavier platter is used, you should upgrade the bearing, and if possible upgrade the motor to something with a higher torque value. Remember there is only a few ways that you can control a platter:
6L6, thanks for digging up the Rega mods page by TigerScent
TigerScent, thanks for documenting your project. Nicely done.
Someplace I stumbled onto a Rega mods page. The guy makes metal pulleys (for both 50 and 60 Hz), motor mounts, improved bearings, metal sub-platters, metal platters (and acrylic too). But he's based out of North America.
I do like the idea of re-using the plastic sub-platter and filling it with silicon. If it ever gives trouble it can always be replaced or an acrylic or metal one devised. If any use a tt with a metal platter, this might work well, or you could do what Oracle did and use a thick elastic band.
To all: if a heavier platter is used, you should upgrade the bearing, and if possible upgrade the motor to something with a higher torque value. Remember there is only a few ways that you can control a platter:
- a higher torque motor
- a heavier platter
- multiple motors
- or a combination of the above
your all welcome...🙂
...actually I thought of the thick elastic band idea as well, and got one to try, but the one I have is too thick and would move the motor assembly...I guess it would need to be thinner but as wide as the sub-platter thickness...(or use a dual standard belts)...Also, it would need to be smooth/consistant so there are no speed variations....
...actually I thought of the thick elastic band idea as well, and got one to try, but the one I have is too thick and would move the motor assembly...I guess it would need to be thinner but as wide as the sub-platter thickness...(or use a dual standard belts)...Also, it would need to be smooth/consistant so there are no speed variations....
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TigerScent, elastic band...
My thought here is on the outer platter if using a metal one. I think the use of silicon caulking or RTV or similar is a smart one. Netter I think that just a belt on an inner. The bands I have seen in use are for the outer platter, and on the outside of it. I do know that some tables have been made with a cork /rubber gasket material glued to the inside of the outer platter (in the Rega and similar tables, the upper platter vs. the sub-platter). You would be amazed what a 1/4" strip of this material glued to the inside rim of an aluminium platter can do for dampening. Some folks swear by a dampening "paint", some sort of water based latex paint (I think) that was on one of the specialty turntable sites, can't remember which one though.
My thought here is on the outer platter if using a metal one. I think the use of silicon caulking or RTV or similar is a smart one. Netter I think that just a belt on an inner. The bands I have seen in use are for the outer platter, and on the outside of it. I do know that some tables have been made with a cork /rubber gasket material glued to the inside of the outer platter (in the Rega and similar tables, the upper platter vs. the sub-platter). You would be amazed what a 1/4" strip of this material glued to the inside rim of an aluminium platter can do for dampening. Some folks swear by a dampening "paint", some sort of water based latex paint (I think) that was on one of the specialty turntable sites, can't remember which one though.
I think you are talking about Groovetracer -- groove tracer
Personally, I really want one of the subplatters... 😀 😀 😀
Nope not Groove Tracer.
There was another , I can't recall where I found the information though.
There was another , I can't recall where I found the information though.
To the OP...
If you can stretch to around $800, shop around and see what is the best price you can get the new RP3 for, you might get one for a little more than what you stated.
If you can stretch to around $800, shop around and see what is the best price you can get the new RP3 for, you might get one for a little more than what you stated.
Maybe you're thinking of SR500. Great stuff!
Silent Running - high performance sound and vibration dampening coating for marine vessels
jeff
Then again, the new RP models will mean better deals on the P3, and even the P3-24 now goes for $999 new.
RaoulJuke's situation has changed...
...however I will not state his new reality (can't remember if was via a PM or in this thread so I won't). But it does not look like he will be investing in a turntable in the very near future.
Regarding the Rega mods I saw on a site, the fellow was Los Angeles based and is an engineer. It was a blog page.
Even though there are the Rega speed issues (whether real or imagined), these can easily be overcome particularly if a used P3/RB300 or P3/RB250 or any of the OEM versions could be had at a good price (Moth, Goldring, etc.). As funds permit upgrades can be done.
TigerScent's thread is excellent. With that in mind perhaps an upgrade path could be suggested:
The Rega Planar turntables are not the only game in town, but in stock form represent such a high value, mainly because of the tonearm. One could even skip buying a Rega and start acquiring the parts to make a custom turntable using the improved parts to begin with.
I am not a particular Rega fan, but I think one would be an idiot to suggest that a Rega is a poor purchase decision. I just like my Oracle, the old idlers I have and the very old BD-1 re-plinth better. Having said that I have had no experience with the most current crop of the Rega turntables, so I can't state from personal knowledge that the newest versions of the Rega tables and arm would compare the same (and based on all the reviews I have read, the current crop of Rega turntables are better than their predecessors). One of the standouts is the addition of the motor controller for the Rega turntables, and the upgraded motor.
...however I will not state his new reality (can't remember if was via a PM or in this thread so I won't). But it does not look like he will be investing in a turntable in the very near future.
Regarding the Rega mods I saw on a site, the fellow was Los Angeles based and is an engineer. It was a blog page.
Even though there are the Rega speed issues (whether real or imagined), these can easily be overcome particularly if a used P3/RB300 or P3/RB250 or any of the OEM versions could be had at a good price (Moth, Goldring, etc.). As funds permit upgrades can be done.
TigerScent's thread is excellent. With that in mind perhaps an upgrade path could be suggested:
- the use of silicon to dampen the Rega's plastic sub-platter is a good idea
- arm rewire
- arm structural mods (improved end stub, counter-weight and VTA adjuster)
- improved motor mount
- improved electronics to drive the motor
- improved motor
- acrylic platter
- improved chassis/plinth
The Rega Planar turntables are not the only game in town, but in stock form represent such a high value, mainly because of the tonearm. One could even skip buying a Rega and start acquiring the parts to make a custom turntable using the improved parts to begin with.
I am not a particular Rega fan, but I think one would be an idiot to suggest that a Rega is a poor purchase decision. I just like my Oracle, the old idlers I have and the very old BD-1 re-plinth better. Having said that I have had no experience with the most current crop of the Rega turntables, so I can't state from personal knowledge that the newest versions of the Rega tables and arm would compare the same (and based on all the reviews I have read, the current crop of Rega turntables are better than their predecessors). One of the standouts is the addition of the motor controller for the Rega turntables, and the upgraded motor.
Down the track, I am considering making a cast lead disc, which will house the sub-platter spindle, into a large circular cut-out in the plinth, ... and 'adhered' flat-flush with the plinth; with a black rubbery windscreen or similar adhesive; ie: Sikaflex. This would be for further dampening from the vibrations of the spindle etc...A ceramic or ruby bearing would be required really to minimize friction and resulting vibration further...
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...also, I have a brass solid piece of rod (looks a bit like the large weight of the tecnoweight) , which I will drill into, the same size as the stub, and flatten the sides until it is the required minimal distance from the pivot point (and required pre-determined weight), and have bottom heavy at the same level as the cartridge/stylus..., as the tungsten circular weight is not heavy enough to be close to the pivot point to minmize effects of interia due to record warp variations. Ill make a grub screw to tighten with allen key when properly adjusted...
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Regarding electronics, there is an ebay site where the fellow is selling a 'hercules 2 motor control' unit, for Linn and Rega type motors..., which looks rather good. There is another site where there is a DIY (I think 'Norton') large toroid transformer based solution...
I wouldn't mod Rega. Makes no economical sense. I'd enjoy it for what it is . Sell it and move on. Once you start putting the money in it, before you know it, you could spend into Linn , Nothingann, Michell category and still have Rega. My 0.2 cent. If you can rewire arm , do it but spending over $200-300 for somemone to do it ? Forget it. Than you see those Incognito arms dumped on ebay and it is really an incognito purchase 🙂
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