After some weeks, I am now ready to say that these mods gave me an audible improvement. A little more magic
I will replace the 15-volt regulators as well. This time with Dexa, I think they will fit on the heatsinks.
I really surprised by the results.
I do not know if you have made reforms in the output (which is an important step).
In my case the clock of tentlabs was the icing on the cake but the cake was ready.
There were no weak links in the chain.
Apologies if I wasn't clear, I ment to say replacing only the original crystal with the TentLabs one and not with the whole PFM clock circuit.
Ahhh I understand ... The circuit of the Flea is a low noise regulator, I think it's best to keep the original crystal and clean feed with tension rather than what they say.
Also have to try. I never tested separately and now I do not want to desolder the crystal.
A hug.
Matias
The two mentioned transformers are very expensive , I don't think they bring you more improvement that an output caps remove or better regulators...
I am using the XLR out DC coupled balanced transformers from PRO gears bypassing also the inputs caps in my modded 640Av2 whit very good results
Marco
Mod's in mind - ntil now
Hi there.
I'm still on the way to make some mods.
I have open'd the Dac Magic, and looked around, also at the service manual.
Before I'd do anything, I have tried to aquire some knowledge.
1. There seems to be a rather big difference between op-amps build upon either FET or standard transitor technology. FET(ex. AD8620) should be more "soft" in the sound, and standard transitors should be more precise. (ne5532 and lm4562). And i kind of like the dynamics in the ne 5532. And have borrowed the benchmark DAC 1, that also incorporates the ne5532. and its has a extremely firm control of the lower bas region, and simply sounds like a DAc magic, after a tweak-up in all reagions.
I could use the AD8620. but they are more expencive, no much, but noticeable. Thus i need to change the 7815 to 7812. But that should be ok. I change the transformer to a lower voltage one. so that the voltage diff wont be to large, and the linear regulator has to dissipate to much heat.
2. i have looked at these.
NewClassD UWB Regulators
They should be wuite nice. Especialy because they are well priced and close to these:
Superpower Super Regulator by Belleson
that normaly separates from big ones like buron and teddyreg.
But Newclassd cost's half. and since it's a Danish product, shipment is free
Still in doubt about how much to change. I believe that the 5V for the digital domain and crystal, is essential. But what about the +/-15 volts for the op-amps??
3. What about the crystal. Matis, sounds like the crystal is only the tip of the iceberg. and it still cost's a lot of money for a good one.
Of course theres a lot of electrolyts/caps to change, but I think that can be a little tricky, since they are not always the same size as the ones used originaly in the Dac magic. that will take som work to fiddle with.
4. im still rather chicken, when it comes to the output caps. shortcut them or not. People say that voltage offset wont be a problem
, but I really like my Musical fidelity pre amp, and would like to keep it
Any comment is greatly appresiated.
Maybe there should be some different recipes, on how to mod your dac magic. Like "Ajcrock" number 3 from the bottom and up, of this page:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/142184-opening-new-dacmagic-19.html
There could be instructions with up's and down's, for both chicken's like me and the one's that like more adventure
Hi there.
I'm still on the way to make some mods.
I have open'd the Dac Magic, and looked around, also at the service manual.
Before I'd do anything, I have tried to aquire some knowledge.
1. There seems to be a rather big difference between op-amps build upon either FET or standard transitor technology. FET(ex. AD8620) should be more "soft" in the sound, and standard transitors should be more precise. (ne5532 and lm4562). And i kind of like the dynamics in the ne 5532. And have borrowed the benchmark DAC 1, that also incorporates the ne5532. and its has a extremely firm control of the lower bas region, and simply sounds like a DAc magic, after a tweak-up in all reagions.
I could use the AD8620. but they are more expencive, no much, but noticeable. Thus i need to change the 7815 to 7812. But that should be ok. I change the transformer to a lower voltage one. so that the voltage diff wont be to large, and the linear regulator has to dissipate to much heat.
2. i have looked at these.
NewClassD UWB Regulators
They should be wuite nice. Especialy because they are well priced and close to these:
Superpower Super Regulator by Belleson
that normaly separates from big ones like buron and teddyreg.
But Newclassd cost's half. and since it's a Danish product, shipment is free
Still in doubt about how much to change. I believe that the 5V for the digital domain and crystal, is essential. But what about the +/-15 volts for the op-amps??
3. What about the crystal. Matis, sounds like the crystal is only the tip of the iceberg. and it still cost's a lot of money for a good one.
Of course theres a lot of electrolyts/caps to change, but I think that can be a little tricky, since they are not always the same size as the ones used originaly in the Dac magic. that will take som work to fiddle with.
4. im still rather chicken, when it comes to the output caps. shortcut them or not. People say that voltage offset wont be a problem
, but I really like my Musical fidelity pre amp, and would like to keep it Any comment is greatly appresiated.
Maybe there should be some different recipes, on how to mod your dac magic. Like "Ajcrock" number 3 from the bottom and up, of this page:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/142184-opening-new-dacmagic-19.html
There could be instructions with up's and down's, for both chicken's like me and the one's that like more adventure
1 - If your intention is a simple reform in the output stage, I recommend you try different alternatives, because the change of sound is very important. According to my personal taste and the tests I did, the OPA1612 are best to replace the NE5532 (are more musical and less analytical than the LM).
2 - Did not try any commercial product, because I found them very expensive and I decided to BBB regulators (in Spanish Bueno (Good), Bonito (nice) and Barato (cheap)).
3 - Do not quite understand your observation.
4 - In Argentina there is a saying: Who don´t take a risk don´t win.
A hug.
Matias.
2 - Did not try any commercial product, because I found them very expensive and I decided to BBB regulators (in Spanish Bueno (Good), Bonito (nice) and Barato (cheap)).
3 - Do not quite understand your observation.
4 - In Argentina there is a saying: Who don´t take a risk don´t win.
A hug.
Matias.
Dac magic mods
1- Do you meen that OPA1612 is the best if I only fiddle with the output stage? Or should I choose differently if I want to change the linear voltage regulators to something better?
2. Ok - i will try to optain my own experiences here
3. Just trying to find out, if changing the crystal, made any noticeable change in sound.
4. Got it I also read your input on "less is more".
5. Some say that you dont need to change all the electrolyts, but simply could ad an tanatalum. I'm not sure that would be enough - but would like to learn more
1- Do you meen that OPA1612 is the best if I only fiddle with the output stage? Or should I choose differently if I want to change the linear voltage regulators to something better?
2. Ok - i will try to optain my own experiences here
3. Just trying to find out, if changing the crystal, made any noticeable change in sound.
4. Got it I also read your input on "less is more".
5. Some say that you dont need to change all the electrolyts, but simply could ad an tanatalum. I'm not sure that would be enough - but would like to learn more
1 - If you change one opamp 12-volt, regulators will have to change and adapt the circuit. I think it's better to start a safe mod and then see if you want to evolve, the OPA1612 opamp is the most beautiful sound I've heard (drawing a comparison to discrete circuits or polarized in class "A").
3. If you change only the glass will have a better long as it's best cut, it really needs to change is the power of the oscillator.
A hug.
Matias
3. If you change only the glass will have a better long as it's best cut, it really needs to change is the power of the oscillator.
A hug.
Matias
Sorry translation error.
Did you mean crystal.
Jitter specifications with the original oscillator is 130 ps.
The crystal is not the best, but I agree that reform is expensive.
have you tried opa1642, matias? i'm planning to use them instead of LM4562. OPA627 is just waaaayyy too expensive for me
I did not try OPA1642, I have a friend who tried in his Marantz, also tested the LME49720 and OPA1612 (this was the best for him too).
It is also very subjective. If you like very detailed sound even at the expense of musicality maybe you like the LME, but for me the best relationship is OPA1612, (if you just want to change an opamp on the other).
The 627's are another world and not as expensive as it looks, how complicated is the weld between the wima's, You get to go crazy.
Matias
It is also very subjective. If you like very detailed sound even at the expense of musicality maybe you like the LME, but for me the best relationship is OPA1612, (if you just want to change an opamp on the other).
The 627's are another world and not as expensive as it looks, how complicated is the weld between the wima's, You get to go crazy.
Matias
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OPA627 is really rather long in the tooth now - have you thought of OPA827 instead? It's much cheaper on TI's website ($4 vs $12).
yes I did mean crystal
I dont think it is that expensive. just wanted to know how much performance I could expect.
I can see that tentlabs claim to have less than 1ps of jitter. that should 130 times better than the original. question is what it does for sound
yes I did mean crystal
I dont think it is that expensive. just wanted to know how much performance I could expect.
I can see that tentlabs claim to have less than 1ps of jitter. that should 130 times better than the original. question is what it does for sound
This is the review of change.
Google Traductor
Thank you
Do I need a dedicated power supply for the Tentlabs XO, like you did?? Or could i simply replace the old XO with the one from Tentlabs??
I am thinking of changing the 5 V supply for the entire cicuit. Currently looking at this one:
NewClassD UWB Regulator
some say that Super Teddyreg are better. But I'm in doubt.
Some comparision of different regulators can be seen here:
Superpower Super Regulator by Belleson
i have tried opa827 before. while they sound good, i think they're a little mid centric with less treble extension compared to ad8620 or LM4562. but i gotta admit, the mid is really, really, really good..
@Matiasro
Thank you again
Even though the translation is a bit difficult at times
But I'll manage
Cheers