I'll let Dave correct me on this, but I think you could fiddle a bit with dimensions, as long as you retain the CSA (cross sectional area), and you could probably increase the overall height a little bit by extending feet or adding base plate, etc., but don't change the internal length or port dimensions.
Chrisb,
Trust a 45 degree chamfer on the front would give the MTs a slimmer appearance from the front?
And talking about finesse with the Planet10 Ken/Kels... loving that aspect with my CHR-Kens... 🙂 the control at the low end is superb.
-Zia
Trust a 45 degree chamfer on the front would give the MTs a slimmer appearance from the front?
And talking about finesse with the Planet10 Ken/Kels... loving that aspect with my CHR-Kens... 🙂 the control at the low end is superb.
-Zia
Half Tower damping technique
Chrisb,
We have covered the correct way of damping the Micro Towers in a different thread thanks to you and Dave.
Any tips for the Half Towers? From the plans it says line top, back wall, one sidewall. Is this recommended for the full height of the cab? Or limit the lining just to underneath the drivers to deal with internal reflections and then stuff the line?
Thx,
Zia
Chrisb,
We have covered the correct way of damping the Micro Towers in a different thread thanks to you and Dave.
Any tips for the Half Towers? From the plans it says line top, back wall, one sidewall. Is this recommended for the full height of the cab? Or limit the lining just to underneath the drivers to deal with internal reflections and then stuff the line?
Thx,
Zia
I'd line the full height of the enclosure with something like the Ultratouch etc, as well as experiment with stuffing the line. Building with removable back panel simplifies this type of fine-tuning
Chrisb,
I love the removable back concept. Last question (hopefully) before I post pics of the actual build 😀.
For such a shallow cabinet, will cleats ala Pensil be ok? Any adjustment to dimensions needed to compensate for the slight internal volume lost? 🙂
I feel using cleats would make the veneer and finish easier for me.
-Zia
I love the removable back concept. Last question (hopefully) before I post pics of the actual build 😀.
For such a shallow cabinet, will cleats ala Pensil be ok? Any adjustment to dimensions needed to compensate for the slight internal volume lost? 🙂
I feel using cleats would make the veneer and finish easier for me.
-Zia
I have some 2" thick Ultratouch to line my cabinets because I didn't want to order rolls of insulation from BC. I assume that I should be shaving/cutting mine down to a quarter it's thickness to put it into cabinets?
Thanks, the 2" stuff is easy to find at Canadian Tire so I figured that I would use it instead.
Unless the cleats are unnecessarily large ( 3/4" ^2 should be fine), I'd imagine the effect on CSA/Volume to be relatively minor, particularly if you're lining the walls with panel damping materials.
As to slot vs round ports, based on some listening a couple of years ago, we concluded they're definitely worth the effort acoustically, and are certainly easier to build to "non-standard" sizes. They can also add bracing as well as a nice aesthetic detail.
I need smaller arms, I am not a fan of working inside that cabinet with the braces in. Sound should be produced this week though, with the sonically unimportant step of veneer done by the end of the month barring some sort of end of the world type event.
If I put them in their final resting place without putting veneer on them I would be put in my final resting place. So I guess that technically putting them in the main system and leaving them there would still count as an end of the world type event.
Its inconvenient to put them there right now anyways, so they stay where they are being assembled and get a tripath amp with a DAP connected to test them out.
Its inconvenient to put them there right now anyways, so they stay where they are being assembled and get a tripath amp with a DAP connected to test them out.
I have made noise with them, but that was just after getting all the panels glued together, so the corners weren't beveled. It was also with unmatched EL70 drivers, not the ones that I got from Planet10. It would be extremely unfair to judge them at that point, as that isn't a finished product.
I am currently in a long drawn out war with veneer, but I am slowly beating it back and this weekend I should be putting on some finish and then installing the EL70eN.
I am currently in a long drawn out war with veneer, but I am slowly beating it back and this weekend I should be putting on some finish and then installing the EL70eN.