Problem is that the super tweeter in my setup is handling a great deal of range I believe it shouldn't be, because I decided last minute that I couldn't do the X-Over myself and got a Dayton Prebuilt that cuts it at 5.6k...I know this is already WAY too low...I know.. I'm going to be correcting this and seeing if I need to replace it or not once I can order the new X-Over stuff that Dave recommended. Cut out the Dayton X-Over and start from there.
sounds like nice drivers....needing a good X-over
you should try and start with 6db filters
then go to 12db, on some slopes
experiment with zobels
carefully adjust levels with resitors
experiment with acoustic damping materials inside box
maybe also try acoustic damping with felt on outside surface
you should try and start with 6db filters
then go to 12db, on some slopes
experiment with zobels
carefully adjust levels with resitors
experiment with acoustic damping materials inside box
maybe also try acoustic damping with felt on outside surface
Agreed Sir 
So I might think of this as a creating a 3-Way X-Over for this speaker rather than a new speaker. Hmm I might indeed. I'm going to start by trying to phase out this Dayton, it does a decent job of speaker separation...but it does only that. So when I get my refund I believe I will start by purchasing the components to build a high pass. I believe if I remember right that .75mfd is what I will need to start crossing over the FF125 effectively into the FT17. Not sure on low end yet though.
Included is a shot of the speakers are they are now.
So I might think of this as a creating a 3-Way X-Over for this speaker rather than a new speaker. Hmm I might indeed. I'm going to start by trying to phase out this Dayton, it does a decent job of speaker separation...but it does only that. So when I get my refund I believe I will start by purchasing the components to build a high pass. I believe if I remember right that .75mfd is what I will need to start crossing over the FF125 effectively into the FT17. Not sure on low end yet though.Included is a shot of the speakers are they are now.
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I actually do have some used authentic Boston Acoustics midranges and tweeters on hand. Not sure which model numbers they are, but you just gave me a great idea, I'll put them up for sale in the swap meet area. I do have a pic of the tweeters.
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is the tweeter in a waveguide, or is just shades I see ?
tweeter and midrange are very far apart from each other
but a waveguide would explain it
woofer is also mounted very low, unless its a sub, crossed very low
if its supposed to work as a 3way, the drivers should be closer together
many ways to improve this speaker
tweeter and midrange are very far apart from each other
but a waveguide would explain it
woofer is also mounted very low, unless its a sub, crossed very low
if its supposed to work as a 3way, the drivers should be closer together
many ways to improve this speaker
No all three speakers are Free-Air. With the lowest cone being a sealed enclosure of its own. I did want to use the Low woofer as a sub. I only want it handling lower freq's. But I also understand that it may be best to set all three close together to get speaker cohesion. I'm slowly learning from my mistakes, I've always learned through practice and this taught me what not to do.
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In a different perspective ,those speaker cabinets are very good indeed
Major work has to be in the Xover . The woofer mounted very near to the floor has a bonus of +3dB from the floor (+ 3dB each surface ,so when positioned in angle you would expect +9dB) ,so it may gain in efficiency to reach the other two units . As usual ,when working with low Xover frequencies ,it may be advisable to run the mid-hi and the woofer (sub) sections with different amplifiers ,actively crossed .
But I'm not encouraging a journey through an unknown path ...As Tinitus said ,the best way is to start from basic configurations then evolve . For example ,if you see your mid-bass having too excursion and you fear it breaking ...then it's time to examine 2nd order...and above.
Major work has to be in the Xover . The woofer mounted very near to the floor has a bonus of +3dB from the floor (+ 3dB each surface ,so when positioned in angle you would expect +9dB) ,so it may gain in efficiency to reach the other two units . As usual ,when working with low Xover frequencies ,it may be advisable to run the mid-hi and the woofer (sub) sections with different amplifiers ,actively crossed .
But I'm not encouraging a journey through an unknown path ...As Tinitus said ,the best way is to start from basic configurations then evolve . For example ,if you see your mid-bass having too excursion and you fear it breaking ...then it's time to examine 2nd order...and above.
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The tweeter and midrange need to be as close together as possible. The woofer can be farther though, because at bass frequencies the wavelengths are much longer. Plus it's better to have the woofer closer to the floor, you avoid floor bounce cancellation and gain boundary reinforcement.
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Not sure if it would matter but I was hoping to crossover all three using Passive only, specifically lowest woofer handling 375-400hz and down then FF125 From that up to 10k then FT17 beyond that. Non Outlet dependent.
I realize running the woofer off a plate amp would be the best solution for simplicity and efficiency. However, I would prefer to not have ANOTHER 2 outlets used and limit speaker placement based on those. I realize the two upper speakers are separated rather largely but I have yet to notice any pronounced issues between them separating the sound stage oddly.
I realize running the woofer off a plate amp would be the best solution for simplicity and efficiency. However, I would prefer to not have ANOTHER 2 outlets used and limit speaker placement based on those. I realize the two upper speakers are separated rather largely but I have yet to notice any pronounced issues between them separating the sound stage oddly.
Flush mounted midrange and tweeter are better, less diffraction off the edges of the tweeter flange and midrange frame.
Read this article about mounting tweeters and woofers.
Zaph|Audio
I have never had a AVR . If it has 5 channels ,they're enough to run those speakers in that manner . Are they independent and reachable from the input connections ?
Again ,the simpler way to start that way would mean to built passive RC/CR filter networks and see if they fit (your purposes ).100 nF for highpass ...considering as 47 K amplifiers' input impedance.
Again ,the simpler way to start that way would mean to built passive RC/CR filter networks and see if they fit (your purposes ).100 nF for highpass ...considering as 47 K amplifiers' input impedance.
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