Hello everyone!
I've some news about cables and connectors.
As already stated by Tom this amp benefits a lot from a good power cable, hook-up wires and connectors.
As power cables I've tried an XLO2 chinese clone, a self made OCC copper cable and a OCC aluminum power cable.
With both Sonar (a supposed japanese brand but I suspect it is the chinese Ya audio) and chinese fake-Oyade connectors.
All of them are way better than standard PC cables with more authority, soundstage and bass extension.
So my suggestion is to get at least one of those chinese cables that costs not much (35-50$)
Regarding power I've also swapped my standard IEC inlet with the base model from Furutech - 9$ (brass, gold plated, cryoed).
I wasn't expecting nothing big but actually it makes a big differrence 😱
More authority, refinement, soundstage. I reccomend it!
As output hook-up cable I've used a 1.2mm single core copper cable (PVC insulated).
I've swapped that one with a 1.2mm single core OCC copper cable (Teflon insulated) from DIYHifiSupply.
Wow, a big difference!
More refined and bigger soundstage.
And finally input wire and connectors.
I've swapped the Tasker microphone cable with the same OCC cable but 0,8mm.
A nice improvement.
Than swapped also RCA sockets from a no brand brass one to both Valab RCA's and CMC 805-2.5F.
Another nice improvement.
Valab's are good and cheap but, IMHO CMCs are way better particularly about soundstage.
Finally I've made another cable with Acrolink single core wire 0.6mm (6N copper) and CMC805 connectors...
Wow, this wire makes a difference! Refined, big soundstage, musical.
Simply gorgeous.😎
Note:
In this post I'm recomending:
I've some news about cables and connectors.
As already stated by Tom this amp benefits a lot from a good power cable, hook-up wires and connectors.
As power cables I've tried an XLO2 chinese clone, a self made OCC copper cable and a OCC aluminum power cable.
With both Sonar (a supposed japanese brand but I suspect it is the chinese Ya audio) and chinese fake-Oyade connectors.
All of them are way better than standard PC cables with more authority, soundstage and bass extension.
So my suggestion is to get at least one of those chinese cables that costs not much (35-50$)
Regarding power I've also swapped my standard IEC inlet with the base model from Furutech - 9$ (brass, gold plated, cryoed).
I wasn't expecting nothing big but actually it makes a big differrence 😱
More authority, refinement, soundstage. I reccomend it!
As output hook-up cable I've used a 1.2mm single core copper cable (PVC insulated).
I've swapped that one with a 1.2mm single core OCC copper cable (Teflon insulated) from DIYHifiSupply.
Wow, a big difference!
More refined and bigger soundstage.
And finally input wire and connectors.
I've swapped the Tasker microphone cable with the same OCC cable but 0,8mm.
A nice improvement.
Than swapped also RCA sockets from a no brand brass one to both Valab RCA's and CMC 805-2.5F.
Another nice improvement.
Valab's are good and cheap but, IMHO CMCs are way better particularly about soundstage.
Finally I've made another cable with Acrolink single core wire 0.6mm (6N copper) and CMC805 connectors...
Wow, this wire makes a difference! Refined, big soundstage, musical.
Simply gorgeous.😎
Note:
In this post I'm recomending:
- Buy/make a good power cable with quality plugs (all chinese fakes are good too) and big section cable, a chinese clone is cheap and fast. 35-50$
- The Furutech base inlet, it makes a difference. 9$
- If you want quality RCA sockets without spending too much CMC 805 are a good choice. 7-8$/pair
Attachments
Last edited:
Hi All,
I beg to differ. I have original Oyaide plugs and they are excellent (if expensive). I have some fakes that I was mis-sold a few years ago and they are reasonably well made. But, ethics aside, there are some dogs out there:
Original thread...
Warning to others
Some alterneatives included in this thread.
Caveat emptor etc.
Cheers
Jon
Hi Jon,
probably my statement was somewhat confusing...
Those fake Oyades are way inferior to the original ones but they're still well made, made from brass, cheap and way better than standard connectors.
As you can see in the attachment Sonars are quite identical, probably the same chinese manifacturer but this time they 'invented' a Japanese brand 😀
Sonars IEC contacts are made from copper, schuko is brass, USA connector copper.
The seller of fake oyades don't say they're Oyades... but on the connectors is printed a nice Oyade brand...🙁
I don't encourage using fakes, I'm only saying that they're suitable.
In fact I've buyed 4 Sonars couples, the fake Oyade were only for comparison...
Attachments
Fair enough, Dario. But there are still some 'orrible copies out there that I would not like plugged into my wall.
Cheers
Jon
Cheers
Jon
Please, let's not turn this into a debate about plugs and wire.
I can see Andrew smoldering.
Dario, thanks for the report. The one thing this should make clear to everyone is that copper is, indeed, fine for this project. In fact, I would avoid silver. Better copper (or better whatever) is even better for this project.
Use the best attachments you can find, and the amp will respond by sounding better. There is no section of this amplifier that will not repay your efforts to improve it.
Leave it at that for now.
If you want to discuss specifics of construction and materials for these various attachments, please go to the old thread that I started for the previous build: The New MYREF C thread, where linuxguru was recently reconfiguring the PCB, and thorough discussion of all elements relevant to building this amplifier are welcome and encouraged.
Peace,
Tom E
I can see Andrew smoldering.
Dario, thanks for the report. The one thing this should make clear to everyone is that copper is, indeed, fine for this project. In fact, I would avoid silver. Better copper (or better whatever) is even better for this project.
Use the best attachments you can find, and the amp will respond by sounding better. There is no section of this amplifier that will not repay your efforts to improve it.
Leave it at that for now.
If you want to discuss specifics of construction and materials for these various attachments, please go to the old thread that I started for the previous build: The New MYREF C thread, where linuxguru was recently reconfiguring the PCB, and thorough discussion of all elements relevant to building this amplifier are welcome and encouraged.
Peace,
Tom E
I agree completely but I've still some silver to try... I'll report about it. 😉
Tom,
In weeks no one wrote here, possibly because people were scared to be bashed for nothing? 🙄
Obviously I can move my reports to the other thread but I think that no one has the right to act like this...
Frankly I'm tired...
It's also obvoius that I'm not talking about you...😀
there have been 174 posts in the last month.
Having read through them, I count ~37 to do with building and build problems.
Having read through them, I count ~37 to do with building and build problems.
Yes, I've been surprised and disappointed at the way this thread died. Perhaps there is an element of intimidation, perhaps people are just busy with other things during the summer.
To avoid conflict with Andrew, I suggest we move our discussion to the other thread, which is regularly watched (although, it, too, has mysteriously fallen silent over the past week) by most MyRef builders, or should be, after reading this post. There will be fewer restrictions on what is considered suitably on topic.
If no one else cares to contribute, at least you and I can continue our discussions without interference. That is the thread that propmpted this entire process and group buy, and it can still be productive for us and others.
Dario, sometimes it's better to simply avoid conflict. If Andrew wants this thread to be more sharply focused on the technical and objective aspects, I say let him keep it that way. I, too, am tired of this bickering.
No more subjective posts here. Please go to the old thread to give listening impressions and other subjective reports. Everyone is encouraged to participate.
Peace,
Tom E
To avoid conflict with Andrew, I suggest we move our discussion to the other thread, which is regularly watched (although, it, too, has mysteriously fallen silent over the past week) by most MyRef builders, or should be, after reading this post. There will be fewer restrictions on what is considered suitably on topic.
If no one else cares to contribute, at least you and I can continue our discussions without interference. That is the thread that propmpted this entire process and group buy, and it can still be productive for us and others.
Dario, sometimes it's better to simply avoid conflict. If Andrew wants this thread to be more sharply focused on the technical and objective aspects, I say let him keep it that way. I, too, am tired of this bickering.
No more subjective posts here. Please go to the old thread to give listening impressions and other subjective reports. Everyone is encouraged to participate.
Peace,
Tom E
and Andrew T will read and when appropriate contribute to the discussion on trying to tune the sound of MyRefC.
Update: MyRef_C Ultimate BOM Documentation v1.6
Here is the lastest updated documentation file for this group buy. The only addition is Uriah's guide to build the LDR attenuator.
It is located in "LDR volume control\Lightspeed-2-1.pdf".
MyRef_C_Ultimate_Documentation_v1.6.rar
Regards,
Regi
Here is the lastest updated documentation file for this group buy. The only addition is Uriah's guide to build the LDR attenuator.
It is located in "LDR volume control\Lightspeed-2-1.pdf".
MyRef_C_Ultimate_Documentation_v1.6.rar
Regards,
Regi
Actually, my amp is almost finished with almost cabled inside. I've been using it daily since 1 month more or less. I am having a problem with induced noise (FM radio) in my right speaker. I've changed speaker cables between both outputs of the amplifier and the problem remains, so I have to check my speaker cabling. With music is inaudible, so is not a hassle at the moment.
It is somewhat parked while I'm on holydays 😀
It is somewhat parked while I'm on holydays 😀
cleaning circuit boards
I hope to get my order for my choice of upgraded components and 5V PS out this week and will have a easy job of finishing up the soldering of my boards. What is the best way to clean the flux off of these boards? I have available to me just about any organic solvent or alcohol, as well as, a sonicator and various detergents. I'd be nice to get the residual flux out from under the flush mounted caps but maybe that is impossible. I don't think the flux I have used is very corrosive or anything. It was from a flux pen and the core of the 2% silver solder I used so nothing bad there, I think. I assume it'd be a bad choice to submerge the whole thing.
How do I best deflux my boards without purchasing a specific deflux product?
Is the best option to just use a purpose built product like a deflux pen?
TIA,
rick
I hope to get my order for my choice of upgraded components and 5V PS out this week and will have a easy job of finishing up the soldering of my boards. What is the best way to clean the flux off of these boards? I have available to me just about any organic solvent or alcohol, as well as, a sonicator and various detergents. I'd be nice to get the residual flux out from under the flush mounted caps but maybe that is impossible. I don't think the flux I have used is very corrosive or anything. It was from a flux pen and the core of the 2% silver solder I used so nothing bad there, I think. I assume it'd be a bad choice to submerge the whole thing.
How do I best deflux my boards without purchasing a specific deflux product?
Is the best option to just use a purpose built product like a deflux pen?
TIA,
rick
You only need to deflux the solder-side - there won't be significant flux that would have ingressed through the through-holes to the component side during manual soldering. Iso-Propyl Alcohol on a scrap of paper towel will clean out the solder-side surface flux just fine, and it's generally non-toxic.
I use to put some isopropilic alcohol in a recipient and brush the boards with an old toothbrush. After the first cleaning it will have visible marks yet, so discard that alcohol and repeat the procedure as many times as you requiere. I am alright doing it twice.
Regards,
Regi
Regards,
Regi
I like to brush both sides of the board, because if you only clean the solder side, the mix of flux and alcohol will flow through the vias to the component side. After some seconds, when the alcohol evaporates, the flux will remain on the component side as white dots and shadows.
Hello, friends
Last night I've finished with assembling all parts. I have to say for the first project it was hard to bear in mind all the steps. Much patience was needed from myself to lead the idea to the visual end. And visually I'm satisfied 😀.
But not audially 🙁.
Because after connecting my 'babyC' to the preamp I couldn't hear any sound - nothing from the speakers, not hum-noise-crackle at all. I tried two preamps with it (ss and valve) - results the same.
Can you, please look at my pics, maybe some connections are not correct ?
The power on-boards voltages - both measures within 25,8V and both LEDs lights ON.
Please, advise me what route should I go next to raise my amp?
some details: I've soldered LM318 directly to the board, and settle LM3886 as down close to the board as possible (maybe it's not good idea?)
Thanks,
Vladimir
Last night I've finished with assembling all parts. I have to say for the first project it was hard to bear in mind all the steps. Much patience was needed from myself to lead the idea to the visual end. And visually I'm satisfied 😀.
But not audially 🙁.
Because after connecting my 'babyC' to the preamp I couldn't hear any sound - nothing from the speakers, not hum-noise-crackle at all. I tried two preamps with it (ss and valve) - results the same.
Can you, please look at my pics, maybe some connections are not correct ?
The power on-boards voltages - both measures within 25,8V and both LEDs lights ON.
Please, advise me what route should I go next to raise my amp?
some details: I've soldered LM318 directly to the board, and settle LM3886 as down close to the board as possible (maybe it's not good idea?)
Thanks,
Vladimir
Attachments
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.