Great Nico! .im working on a budget tri-chipamp and 3ways speakers. going to use left over tassie oak floorboards glued to ply for ob type. see my first amp at
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/79303-chip-amp-photo-gallery-142.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/79303-chip-amp-photo-gallery-142.html
Hallo to everybody !
..this is my realization of a PtP n-hexfet stereo amp ("The Saint" 's design.. thanks man.!) with 1 pair of industrial 60Amp peak current fets & ecc83 triode buffer per channel, @ +/-33v rails, fused protection, soft start delay, descrete geared attenuator pots, a balance pot (hi-fi style) & 6 input selector+rec out, hand made to the bone.
This baby is absolutely a Work of art
SymAsym
Here is my SymAsym "AAK version". 100 WPC class A/B with softstart and temperature actuated fan circuit.
Link to original posting on diyaudio.com - LINK.
Here is a link to My SymAsym Web page.
Pics-
Here is my SymAsym "AAK version". 100 WPC class A/B with softstart and temperature actuated fan circuit.
Link to original posting on diyaudio.com - LINK.
Here is a link to My SymAsym Web page.
Pics-


lgreen nice one. I also retrofit old japaneese amps with some good stuff.
Great! Old japanese (and other amps) have plenty of room for connectors on the back and you can even reuse some of them, here I have kept the Onkyo speaker fuses in-use, they are probably 30 years old (using original fuses too). Also they have flat faceplates which makes it easy to replace or cover the original faceplate with your own metal. And the covers have ventilation slots for cooling.
Newer receivers and amps often use curved front panels which makes substituting your own panel much more difficult.
Edit- pic added
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
lgreen, sweeeet amp you made. Wiring looks a bit messy, but if it sounds alright, there's no deal 🙂
Sym
Actually for me, the wiring is super neat! I try and try but can never get really nice wiring like the rest of you people here.
Luckily there is no hum or hiss so I guess I was lucky.
lgreen, sweeeet amp you made. Wiring looks a bit messy, but if it sounds alright, there's no deal 🙂
Actually for me, the wiring is super neat! I try and try but can never get really nice wiring like the rest of you people here.
Luckily there is no hum or hiss so I guess I was lucky.
Or maybe there are just lots of wires from the softstart and the fan control system. I am used to minimalists gainclones 😀
here I have kept the Onkyo speaker fuses in-use, they are probably 30 years old (using original fuses too).
Nice,recycle is good,but better put a new one😉 like littlefuse with low serial resistence....
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a walk in the pass labs
Athens is hot in the summer time ...so got my shelf a walk in a more cooler area ...the pass labs
i made my shelf a generic B1 buffer just for listening pleasure .... well prooved a nice expirience
--nice drive
-- excellent dynamics
-- wonderfull colours
-- nice bandwidth
-- suprizingly noiseless
-- and most of all sounds amazingly natural
even though its a very generic construction and suffers from a few construction issues and small excecution mistakes still plays by far better than similar thingies i heard in the past
only seems that palys better with 24 volts than with 18 dont know if my imagination or ears or too much cofee play some game with me about that ...
regards sakis
Athens is hot in the summer time ...so got my shelf a walk in a more cooler area ...the pass labs
i made my shelf a generic B1 buffer just for listening pleasure .... well prooved a nice expirience
--nice drive
-- excellent dynamics
-- wonderfull colours
-- nice bandwidth
-- suprizingly noiseless
-- and most of all sounds amazingly natural
even though its a very generic construction and suffers from a few construction issues and small excecution mistakes still plays by far better than similar thingies i heard in the past
only seems that palys better with 24 volts than with 18 dont know if my imagination or ears or too much cofee play some game with me about that ...
regards sakis
Attachments
I have just completed my DCB1 and took some pictures.It can be considered as an upgraded version of Pass B1. It has a shunt regulated PSU made in a way that no copling caps are needed, so no need to place any capacitor in the signal path. It has Takeman resistors in the signal path and has been made the mod of upping the CCS current and changing the electrolytic bypass capacitor of the led chain to polypropilene orange drops (0.1uF) ones.
Its volume control is a lightspeed (LDR) attenuator, so no pots or switches or precarious contact points in the signal path. It is power supplied by its own regulated psu, feeded from the main preamp psu.
All signal wiring is Cat.5e network cable wires. I tried to made my bests in arranging a neat and separated wiring scheme. Chassis has been refurbished from an old telecom equipment.
Wonderful clean sound. No audible background noise, neither placing the ear near the speaker cone.
Regards,
Regi
Its volume control is a lightspeed (LDR) attenuator, so no pots or switches or precarious contact points in the signal path. It is power supplied by its own regulated psu, feeded from the main preamp psu.
All signal wiring is Cat.5e network cable wires. I tried to made my bests in arranging a neat and separated wiring scheme. Chassis has been refurbished from an old telecom equipment.
Wonderful clean sound. No audible background noise, neither placing the ear near the speaker cone.
Regards,
Regi
Attachments
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