Group Buy: Rectifier bridge with 4-layer pcb

[Sergelisses]

Hi Peranders

I have received the PCBs .

The work of professional

Thanks

Serge

 

[peranders]

Hi Peranders,

Could I use 0.047uF capacitor and 10R as my snubber?

Thanks.

You could try it.

 

[2Bak]

Received mine today.

Very nice PCB!

Thanks.

Jan

 

[neskor]

I just received the PCBs .

Thanks

 

[coolnose]

Received mine mid week...... looking great !

Thank's a lot!

BTW, anyone tried building the bridge like this sjostromaudio.com - RFB02 The high current ultra fast rectifier bridge

 

[peranders]

This was a tweak by Mr. Ruschkowski (user here also) but I don't know if he is the only one tweaking the bridge like this.

 

[coolnose]

Thanks for your input P-A! I will try to contact him, you woulndn't have his username/avatar by any chance ?

Thing is I will be using schottkys and that leaves so much unused space on the board... would be a crime not to try to use it

Cheers,

Max

EDIT: Never mind, just found him...

 

[PauloPT]

Hi peranders,

Am I too late to order a couple of boards?

Kind Regards,
Paulo.

 

[peranders]

I'm afraid so.

 

[PauloPT]

Hi Per-Anders!

Seems you can't receive PMs...

I mailed you at your site.

Thanks!

Cheers,
Paulo.

 

[peranders]

The PM is switched off (easier to answer emails when you are mobile). Please use email.

 

[JeroenR]

newbie question...

I tried soldering components to one of the boards today and failed. I cannot get the solder to flow to the other side of the board. Is my soldering iron to weak? The joint also looks brittle, not good.

The iron has a label saying : 24V/48W and has a max temperature of 420 C.

Should I just get a bigger gun?

Won't I damage the MUR's with so much heat?

Thanks,

Jeroen

 

[peranders]

More juice or longer time.

If the tin doesn't melt on the component side the isn't too much.

 

[JeroenR]

Thank you.

I will get a stronger iron tomorrow. The nearby electronic shop biggest was 30W, think I need to look further...

Jeroen

 

[housing]

Thank you.

I will get a stronger iron tomorrow. The nearby electronic shop biggest was 30W, think I need to look further...

Jeroen

Get a small soldering station like the Hakko 936 that I use. You will find it invaluable when you further develop your interest in DIYing.

 

[JeroenR]

Get a small soldering station like the Hakko 936 that I use. You will find it invaluable when you further develop your interest in DIYing.

Thanks.

I have a Velleman soldering station but that is 48W and max 420C. Your Hakko is 60W and max 480C. Perhaps that little bit more makes the difference.

Jeroen

 

[housing]

Thanks.

I have a Velleman soldering station but that is 48W and max 420C. Your Hakko is 60W and max 480C. Perhaps that little bit more makes the difference.

Jeroen

May be. That extra juice may help. But I rarely use the max 480C except when soldering components to very heavy copper planes.

 

[JeroenR]

Ok, I bought a cheap 60W iron and that works. Solder is now flowing through.

A few of the joints looked brittle afterwards (not shiny but matt) so I removed those and redid them. Is this caused by warming the solder for too long?

I hope the MUR's survive, still have to do those.

Jeroen

 

[JeroenR]

results...

 

[housing]

Hi P-A,

Do you still have more of these PCBs?

Thanks.