Dx Blame ES .... based into the Blameless, i am trying a new amplifier

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Ok, now its time to say some words.. :)
first of all:
Hallo all together, i´m volker from germany, Rudis companion, bulding this famos amp...
And please regard, my english isn´t the best of all, it takes some time for me finding the right words...but i try my best ;-) A little bit very german english, i think you can understand this with a big smile in your face.
@ Carlos:
I have heared this dx-amp from Rudi, and it was very good, nice clear sound...but there was missing a litte bit of power...so i have taken some bigger transformers and more µF, because these sankens are very good and can do more work.
And there is another fact: It´s the first time for me building something like this, i have only repared some Luxmans in the time ago...and its Rudis layout of pcb, making me some headache....sometimes there is no place to get a right position for soldering.
Ok, lets speaking about a 10mm Aluplate for mounting the amp....
Rudi did´nt know all my inspirations and he had spoken to you without all these informations.
yes, i will build this amp like this, but without any case. And i will have a look at the themperatures, and after this, i have some Options to do. There is enough space for headthinks, if nessesary, there are some headthinks underfloor too keep away any hotspots, there are big openings in the future case for airflow....and so on....i will do it step by step, but first of all this amp must do some greate sounds, otherwise there will be no case :)))
Best audiophile regards from germany, volker
 
I am glad you came to talk with us dear Volker

I am very happy to have you here.

In Brazil we have an amplifier made the way you will do, it is the Nashville, a professional amplifier, but, the one uses a fan to help cooling.... internal schematic is Leach amplifier copy.

The Nashville NA2200 was very famous during the eigthies, and used that thick and bit aluminium panel you said, also in the bottom, but, in the back panel, there's a very fast fan blowing air... it was 100 plus 100 watts, so, average was around 50 plus 50 watts..almost the same you will have.

In the picture it is the lower one, the one has a ventilation grille at the front panel.

Please, post images during your construction, people loves that, i do love that too.

aufwiederlehsen.

Carl
 

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Nashville, the Brazilian audio industry, is still alive.

and their products were considered top!

I do not like Leach amplifier sonics, but i am not the brazilian majority... i have other type of sound i love.

This blue colour, painted over a black panel, the ones that does not shine too much...man!.. this looks very good to my taste.... i love this blue colour... called Turquoise blue.

My people loves USA, reason why they go copying ideas that came from there, also brands and schematics...some are licensed, others not.... the 2 rigth side models are from 1981, using TIP41 and TIP42 as drivers, toroidal transformer and Leach amplifier schematic.

regards,

Carlos
 

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taj

diyAudio Member
Joined 2005
Your monitor picture is str-e-e-e-e-e-ched very wide. 30% aspect ratio distortion. I think you'll need some Blameless circuitry to reduce that.

[Edit] Here's my desktop photo...

..Todd
 

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taj

diyAudio Member
Joined 2005
I tried that stuff once. It's pretty good, almost like beer.

It must have been really hot weather. That's the only way it can trick you like that. It's a "Canadian" problem, we're not used to hot weather, so we're tricked easily by these foreign "beer" when we're out of our elements. Not a problem if you're going to say, Germany or Ireland, or those places that aren't typically hot, they have real beer there, and we can sniff it out reliably. In fact it's difficult to find fake beer there. But in hot places we gotta be careful. That's why I posted that photo, as an identification aid. (As demonstrated though, it's okay if you add lime).

..Todd
 
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taj

diyAudio Member
Joined 2005
Updated drawing. The polarity of the VBEM capacitor is now correct. (And I had to replace the fuses too :rolleyes:.) The high-res PDF file is attached below the preview.

..Todd
 

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Ok,
Hey Carlos,
i think now it´s time to put all this things together, or not ;-)
That was a lot of work, and i hope this amp will have a good sound :)
Some parts are missing, chinchkables and the sankens, but i have to mount the pcb firstly...
happy regards... volker
 

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More two Dx Blame boards exiting the board factory

more two lovely amplifiers will be constructed very soon.

Fell strong emotions...increase your volume...wait this youtube small video upload..them click to play and hold tigth yourself not to fell down from your chair:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uQpsX_EdtQ

regards,

Carlos
 

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This is a very common and usual source of mistakes.

People use to invert these transistors... be aware this happens, everyday, and with several folks...be attention about that.

There are modern units that have not the metal appearing, these you must identify leads using your multimeter.... colector is in the center...you have to identify the base, and emitter will be identified as a consequence.

Carefull with the ones have metal tabs appearing, these ones have the heatsinks "hot", with positive and negative rail supplies...so, do not let them touch one each other or touch resistance leads or anything alike that.

regards,

Carlos
 

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22pf and 500pf are perfect!

First one is out around 20 percent out and the second one is near 10 percent.

This is within the tollerance...to the first one, the limit is 27pf...the second one will transform a sinus sinal to a triangle, when you install a 1500 picofarads capacitor in place..then, doing that, you gonna have triangle at 20 kilohertz... and will start to polute sonics.

You have triangle at and above 60 kilohertz using the standard capacitors.

The compensation one, at the VAS, can be 100pf...but all those ones should be 60 volts or more , as they will face audio swing.... and they should be Silver Mica, as voltage there is variable....people told me Silver Mica remains it's capacitance stable while face variable voltage, when the ceramics does not keep capacitance so stable as Silver Mica units.... people told me, and this i had no chance to check...maybe one day i will be sure about...using just in case.

So, 27pf and 500pf are perfect!

I am very glad to have you building Meanman.... very good that!

regards,

Carlos
 
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