Hi,
Bravo
!! Its the of the unique designs that I've come across in recent times !!
This just goes onto show that with little imagination,patience and hard work what can be achieved !!
Simple superb buddy keep it up 🙂 !!
Regards.
Bravo
!! Its the of the unique designs that I've come across in recent times !!This just goes onto show that with little imagination,patience and hard work what can be achieved !!
Simple superb buddy keep it up 🙂 !!
Regards.
Good to see... i've been contemplating such a build ever since i saw others using the blanda bowls... the MA Alpair 7 is a good fit with 9.1 litre. Make the slot port act as a stand.
dave
dave
Ditto. I have a pair of the Jordans which would fit very nicely in some of those. 7-8 litres sealed is ideal for use with a sub and no need for a reflex port.
Pity the nearest Ikea is a three hour round trip. Hm. Some plotting needed ...
Pity the nearest Ikea is a three hour round trip. Hm. Some plotting needed ...
MarkLai, those look excellent. What is the aluminum ring and How do they sound?
Have you thought about using twin subs, push pull, isobarik like the link in the next post to cancel out the forces?
The sanding is a bit of a nightmare, i went over every square inch but its creates some much fine white dust its hard to see what your doing. Did you find that it left a dusty/cloudy residue on yours? I ended up putting some natural oil on to help to get rid of it.
Have you thought about using twin subs, push pull, isobarik like the link in the next post to cancel out the forces?
The sanding is a bit of a nightmare, i went over every square inch but its creates some much fine white dust its hard to see what your doing. Did you find that it left a dusty/cloudy residue on yours? I ended up putting some natural oil on to help to get rid of it.
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Its a shame Ikea don't make the wooden blanda bowls in a 36cm version like the aluminium ones. I would love to make a isobarik sub like TNT on this forum, just my metal working skills are appalling.
Page 7 of the thread. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/80899-voodoo-vibration-loudspeakers-7.html
Page 7 of the thread. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/80899-voodoo-vibration-loudspeakers-7.html
I just finish my sanding today. I'll try to wax them first. If not good, I'll lacquar them.
I don't hear them yet. I've a Alpair6 base reflex, 7L, from EUVL which I like them very much.
The silver color AL ring is just an adaptor ring glued to the salad bowl. I find that it is too thin to drill screw holes onto the salad bowl, which is 8mm thickness only.
Single subwoofer is good enough for a small room which is typical in Hong Kong. Mark Fanlon knows that.. haha.
I don't hear them yet. I've a Alpair6 base reflex, 7L, from EUVL which I like them very much.
The silver color AL ring is just an adaptor ring glued to the salad bowl. I find that it is too thin to drill screw holes onto the salad bowl, which is 8mm thickness only.
Single subwoofer is good enough for a small room which is typical in Hong Kong. Mark Fanlon knows that.. haha.
very inspiring idea!
MarkLai,
I highly recommend reconsidering waxing first. although lovely as a finish, it is a nightmare to get off perfectly, and it must be perfectly removed if you want to lacquer them, or else the lacquer will come off where there is residual wax.
MarkLai,
I highly recommend reconsidering waxing first. although lovely as a finish, it is a nightmare to get off perfectly, and it must be perfectly removed if you want to lacquer them, or else the lacquer will come off where there is residual wax.
Blanda Matt
IKEA | Serve | Serving dishes & bowls | BLANDA MATT | Serving bowl
excellent idea
now i'm considering this project
There's a really simple way to take this project to the next level:
Put the tweeter in a sphere.
Here's why:
According to Blauert, our auditory cues are dominated by inter-level differences above 1600hz. A spherical enclosure improves the off-axis response of *any* loudspeaker. It doesn't matter if it's a woofer or a tweeter. The key is that our perception is more sensitive to frequency response above 1600hz.
Therefore, a spherical enclosure for your midrange and a spherical enclosure for your tweeter will both yield audible improvements. But you'll get the most "bang for your buck" with a tweeter enclosure.
Another nice thing about tweeters is that the enclosure size doesn't get out of hand.
For instance, if you're crossing your midrange over at 100hz, you should be using a sphere with a diameter of 42" across. That will control diffraction down to the crossover point, but it's also the size of a refrigerator!
OTOH, if you're crossing your tweeter over at 2000hz, you should be using a sphere with a diameter of just 2"! Naturally, this is very easy to do, particularly in an era of ubiquitous inexpensive neodymium tweeters. (Did someone say Vifa DQ25?)
The option that I *really* like is using something like the Ikea salad bowls, but with a full range driver. The Peerless 830970 goes all the way to 20khz, and can be crossed over at 500hz or lower.
An Ikea salad bowl and a Peerless 830970 cost less than twenty bucks BTW.
If you don't have an Ikea in your area, Wal Marts sells some bowls that work nearly as well, and have a flat face that make for an easy mount.
Read my thread here:
Improve Your Soundstage for $2 - DIY Mobile Audio
[/font]
Put the tweeter in a sphere.
Here's why:
According to Blauert, our auditory cues are dominated by inter-level differences above 1600hz. A spherical enclosure improves the off-axis response of *any* loudspeaker. It doesn't matter if it's a woofer or a tweeter. The key is that our perception is more sensitive to frequency response above 1600hz.
Therefore, a spherical enclosure for your midrange and a spherical enclosure for your tweeter will both yield audible improvements. But you'll get the most "bang for your buck" with a tweeter enclosure.
Another nice thing about tweeters is that the enclosure size doesn't get out of hand.
For instance, if you're crossing your midrange over at 100hz, you should be using a sphere with a diameter of 42" across. That will control diffraction down to the crossover point, but it's also the size of a refrigerator!
OTOH, if you're crossing your tweeter over at 2000hz, you should be using a sphere with a diameter of just 2"! Naturally, this is very easy to do, particularly in an era of ubiquitous inexpensive neodymium tweeters. (Did someone say Vifa DQ25?)
The option that I *really* like is using something like the Ikea salad bowls, but with a full range driver. The Peerless 830970 goes all the way to 20khz, and can be crossed over at 500hz or lower.
An Ikea salad bowl and a Peerless 830970 cost less than twenty bucks BTW.
If you don't have an Ikea in your area, Wal Marts sells some bowls that work nearly as well, and have a flat face that make for an easy mount.
Read my thread here:
Improve Your Soundstage for $2 - DIY Mobile Audio
[/font]
Hi Patrick, I did indeed read through all of your thread after it was linked on Audio Junkies. Perhaps i should just spend the extra 12 pounds for the 4x 12cm Blanda bowls and keep the spherical theme going.
Today however i have been casting champagne flutes with cement and a internal tapering tube. The notion is to replicate B&W tweeters as on the 800/nautilus/Signature Diamond series.
The first one has come out ok, i have taken off the front plate of my tweeter, so its just 30mm in diameter, i need to do a bit of adjustment to make it fit in. I'll try and post pictures tomorrow.
Anyone have any idea what tweeter the ones i have used are? (were listed on eBay as 'rare', they are peerless and have metal domes, the seller didn't have anymore information). 8 ohm. barcode reads: 8 429649 606244. For 20quid they seemed a bargain, if theres anything better at a reasonable rate and available in the UK im all ears.
Today however i have been casting champagne flutes with cement and a internal tapering tube. The notion is to replicate B&W tweeters as on the 800/nautilus/Signature Diamond series.
The first one has come out ok, i have taken off the front plate of my tweeter, so its just 30mm in diameter, i need to do a bit of adjustment to make it fit in. I'll try and post pictures tomorrow.
Anyone have any idea what tweeter the ones i have used are? (were listed on eBay as 'rare', they are peerless and have metal domes, the seller didn't have anymore information). 8 ohm. barcode reads: 8 429649 606244. For 20quid they seemed a bargain, if theres anything better at a reasonable rate and available in the UK im all ears.
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Mind is a 200mm outside diameter and approx. 184mm inside. That makes up just good 3 litre inside for the full range Alpair6. I hand sand flat the opening first, glue the bowl on a plywood and machine the bottom on a mill. Remove the "top" plywood and glue the bowl on the bottom. Then lath/mill all the rest. I'm lucky that I've a good machinest to help me.
Hi, they look great. Nice work.
Those look like nice drivers also, do you know if there is anymore information about them as the e-bay listing only provides very sparse specs...
Would there be any disadvantages in going for a vented enclosure, apart from a larger enclosure that is? I'm tempted to try something similar, but I would prefer to not use a sub for the time being...
Those look like nice drivers also, do you know if there is anymore information about them as the e-bay listing only provides very sparse specs...
Would there be any disadvantages in going for a vented enclosure, apart from a larger enclosure that is? I'm tempted to try something similar, but I would prefer to not use a sub for the time being...
first attempts at the champagne castings. Quite happy with the result, needs a good clean, and a file down so the tweeter fits. Fist one ended up smashing the glass, hopefully next one might slide out. If it works well, it is an incredibly cheap tweak.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
