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#581
dubai2000 said:
Perhaps a question other people might have as well: if I want to replace the rectifier bridge in the TA3020 V2 amp with diodes, which values should those have?
Click to expand...

i just test some Schottky rectifiers, MBR20H200CT as rectifiers diodes for the TA3020 amplifier, and performs quite well. the advantage of this diodes is mainly given by the lower voltage drop than on a normal diode, and reduced generated heat. one important aspect is that the Schottky diodes usually have low reverse voltage, most common are 45-60V but there are also higher voltages, up to 150-200V, like the ones which i used. next step will be to test some SiC diodes
 
#583
Question about DC Supply on amps

Hi,
I'm trying to find which of your amps would be the best match for a PA cabinet. I will need 150Wx1 into an 8ohm load. The trick is that I'd like to be able to power it with DC current via a few SLA batteries in series. These will be used in locations where AC current isn't available. I can easily fit 2 or 3 SLA batteries in series providing 24-26VDC or 36-39VDC with plenty of current.

I'd even be open to one of your larger amps that didn't have to be bridged so this cabinet could also power a 2nd passive PA cabinet.

I was looking at the boards based on TA2022 and IRAUDAMP7 and maybe even one of the TDA892x Amp V2. Power wise, it looks like these could work, but I'm not sure which of these will work with a DC supply.

Thanks
 
#584
cnx said:
the available board can deliver up to 500W at 4 ohms and 280W on 8 Ohms.
i mention that the ic can work at up to +-200V but in a practical design will never be used at such voltages. up to +-140 to 160 is resonable. there must be a safety margin of at least 25% for reliable usage. even so, with +-140V rails you can get huge output power even in single ended, not to talk about BTL. for this, must use a complete redesigned pcb, with multiple output MOS-FET's and a much more tight layout, prefereable 4 layers with 3 oz. copper, very short and wide tracks, ground planes, etc....
Click to expand...

I am fascinated by amps that could run +/- 120 to 160 volts, because here in America you wouldn't need a transformer. One could simply rectify the 115 VAC line power directly. It would be cheap and light, although the heat sinks and caps could get pretty big.

Of course, such high power is impractical for my personal use. But the amp would be interesting. 😀

One practical application would be a subwoofer plate amp designed for multiple drivers in series. Then the series impedance would reduce the power consumption to reasonable levels and yet there wouldn't be the cost and weight of a transformer.
 
#585
benchtester said:
I am fascinated by amps that could run +/- 120 to 160 volts, because here in America you wouldn't need a transformer. One could simply rectify the 115 VAC line power directly. It would be cheap and light, although the heat sinks and caps could get pretty big.

Of course, such high power is impractical for my personal use. But the amp would be interesting. 😀

One practical application would be a subwoofer plate amp designed for multiple drivers in series. Then the series impedance would reduce the power consumption to reasonable levels and yet there wouldn't be the cost and weight of a transformer.
Click to expand...
1. that +/- 160v, so you can't so what you would want
2. no safety (which is a big fail if you think like that), noise, voltage peaks,... nothing good would come out of it
3. very bad thd current drawn from mains, you would desturb a lot of houses, until someone would be knocking at your door

just few points here🙄
 
#586
Saulty,

Take a look at DA-1. It's single ended so you could easily run it off of a stack of batteries. The other amps you mention all require +/- rails and would require double the amount of batteries to supply the negative rail.

I have a DA-1 that I'm about to put into a case with a 72v SMPS. Iv'e used it on 24v and would estimate it supplying around 100W, however, if you add another battery and get the power up around 36v I would suspect it to deliver your requirements.

col.
 
#587
Thanks Col. You are right. That appears to be only amp using a single supply. I haven't been able to track down the spec sheet for this though. The link is broken on the site and I couldn't find this one posted anywhere in this thread. Do you happen to have it? What chip does it use?
Thanks
 
#590
In theory the pin 1 of the molex connector, if I understood well, should be connected to the +5V to activate the mute function.. but in the molex connector there's no +5V pin available as in the other boards based on the TA3020.. so probably connecting it to a point of the board where there's the +5V used for the TA3020 or an external +5 (through a series resistor of 100ohms for security) should do the job.. In the datasheet of TA3020 and in the documents it says just "a logic high will activate the mute function".. I guess that this "logic high" should be the +5V but maybe I'm wrong. At any rate the mute function is not needed for anti-thump if you use the external speaker protection board..
 
#591
sgarbialan said:
In theory the pin 1 of the molex connector, if I understood well, should be connected to the +5V to activate the mute function.. but in the molex connector there's no +5V pin available as in the other boards based on the TA3020.. so probably connecting it to a point of the board where there's the +5V used for the TA3020 or an external +5 (through a series resistor of 100ohms for security) should do the job.. In the datasheet of TA3020 and in the documents it says just "a logic high will activate the mute function".. I guess that this "logic high" should be the +5V but maybe I'm wrong. At any rate the mute function is not needed for anti-thump if you use the external speaker protection board..
Click to expand...

Yes, I checked and tha logic high should be a +5v taken somewhere. But why not taking to the molex connector even those +5v if the idea was to use those +5v on the board? Bah, we'll see. Thanks by now, and happy 2010!
 
#593
First of all, Happy New Year to Everybody !!!!

on the latest version of the TA3020 amplifier boards i removed the +5V out from the connector to make sure that this voltage will not be improperly used to supply other stages which will require different voltage or higher current than what can be provided, and alterate the amplifier performances or even damage. anyway for pull-up the mute pin the 5V can be picked up from the board, the small 470uF cap which is on the bottom left of the board, the closest one from the mounting hole. this operation must be done with extreme care, to not short-circuit something or damage the board.
 
#594
cnx said:
First of all, Happy New Year to Everybody !!!!

on the latest version of the TA3020 amplifier boards i removed the +5V out from the connector to make sure that this voltage will not be improperly used to supply other stages which will require different voltage or higher current than what can be provided, and alterate the amplifier performances or even damage. anyway for pull-up the mute pin the 5V can be picked up from the board, the small 470uF cap which is on the bottom left of the board, the closest one from the mounting hole. this operation must be done with extreme care, to not short-circuit something or damage the board.
Click to expand...

That capacitor should be C31, at least on the V3b board, right?
 
#599
Hi,Cristi,would like to know if the 1000watts peak power is 1000watts with an output of +-45V as well as +-55v or if it's current limited and give more power in 55 volta than 45volts.And if it's current limited what is the peak current we can have from the output.
Also interesting to know if for example we can have 1000watts peak for each side of the
supply when driving amplifier.thanks
 
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