Hello all,

I am building my second project. My first one was Speakerdesignworks Aviatrix. This one will be a 2.1 channel portable boombox using the following parts:

• TPA3116 Bluetooth 4.0 Digital Amplifier
• Dayton Audio SD215A-88 8" Sub
• Markaudio Alpair-7 Gold Cone 4" Full Range Driver
• Mean Well MW NES-150-24 24 VDC 6.5A 150W Regulated Switching Power Supply

It is to be portable, so I want it strong and light. I will use 3/4 multi-ply and want a candy red paint on it with a brown/tan grill cloth. I got my inspiration from the design on parts-express. Just enter the following after the parts-express web URL:

/project-gallery-speaker-project-the-podzuma

It is made to look like an older amp. I didn't include the battery as it would cost too much and make it heavier. The way I'm building it should have good output from 30hz to 20khz.

So far I have the amp, PS, and Sub-woofer. I will get the wood next and start building while I save up for the full-range speakers as they are 85 dollars a piece. The other thing I will do are the mods per FFcossag on youtube to lower noise floor and improve the crossover which is around 60-80hz. The full range can play down to 52hz. Based on his mods, the sub will start to attenuate at50hz with much more between 60-80hz. 80 was -6dB if I recall.

I think I will build the cabinet with a large enough amp/PS chamber so that I can put in batteries down the road if desired.

I should be able to fit two Power-Sonic PS-12120F2 12v 12aH batteries in there, but it would weigh 16 extra pounds. That's a ton more.

I'm Brad, from near Ann Arbor MI.
I started messing around with electronics in the 1980's in high school and for a while thought that's what I wanted to do. Then in College I discovered that all the classes were on Digital Matrix math! ughh. I switched majors to Mechanical Engineering. Years passed, and while trying to listen to my TEAC V-850X cassette deck - which was banished to the basement- along with my LP's- discovered it did not work. I turned to the internet and found that it was probably belts, they were available, and not too expensive. I repaired the TEAC, and was filled with confidence. That led me to research the Pioneer SX-1010 I had been using as a tuner for a decade, as it had a failed power amp section. I found out that it was a well regarded unit, and parts were available! Long post a bit shorter- I fixed it, and its in service now. That rekindled my electronics hobby, and now many projects later, I'm building a version of the Forewatt preamp from scratch. There is a thread on it in Tube.
I've learned and read a bunch here, but just now joined.

Hi all,

I wonder if anyone can recommend me what they think is the best all around fullrange driver is? The criteria I have in mind are price, bass, treble extension and loudness.

Would be great to hear!

Edit: I'd be looking to use a small enclosure of perhaps around 6l - no massive TL or something. Also, I have a powerful DSP for equalisation.

Edit 2: Okay seems like 6l is very unreasonable so I can shift this requirement, perhaps rethink the enclosure shape. 12l is acceptable. For some extra information regarding the intended usage: the speakers will be used in a fairly small room around 4x4x3m high. They will be used for relaxed listened perhaps around 90db max at 1m. It would be nice to have a little headroom. For me, reasonable extension would be -3 of 60Hz minimum. I'd like to see the high end response get past 10kHz without problems.

I know the rule of thumb is to keep the end of the port (inside the box) away from any walls by a distance equal to the diameter of the port.

However, although great in theory, how big of a deal is this in real life in terms of chuffing or other negative effects? Let's say I build a sub similar to this SVS one, having a flared 8" port that runs straight towards the rear without any bends, where the distance from the edge of the end flare is very close to the bottom of the sub (e.g. 10mm) inside the box:



This one would have the port end close to both the botton and side wall:



Perhaps far from ideal but so many commerical designs seem to be built like this:






Also on the outside, the port is very close to the floor - certainly no diameter away from this "obstruction".

As long as you tune the length of the port to account for any resulting boundary effects, why should I not go ahead and just to this? Especially if the only other option available is to mount the port on top facing up?

If I do it, is it better to keep any fill away from the critical distance or would it be better to strategically add some around there to mitigate any turbulence?

Speaking of which, does nobody stuff their boxes any longer, say for 15-80Hz? A friend of mine said that's old school and to go ahead if I like wooly and loose bass....🙄

Hi! I have been living a while now with a speaker consisting of FaitalPro HF206 mounted to a PH2380 horn, crossed at 600hz to a FaitalPro 15PR400. I'm using a minDSP 2x4 HD for crossover and EQ.

The point of this speaker was to be confident that my system could handle full THX reference level. At high levels the horn sometimes sounds really resonant, and especially deep male voice are recreated horribly bad. Distortion at high frequency is also very evident even at 10-15db below reference levels.

So now i'm trying to decide whether i should try a different horn, like the Eminence H2EA, or if i should buy a good midrange, like the Scan-speak 15m Discovery and make it a 3-way with a 27TFFC i have lying around.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Hi All,

With all this time at home I have started in sorting out my junk pile. This week I am working on the orphan singletons. Can anyone guess who made this driver?

I have found no markings at all!

John

Hi,
My sad story starts with a complete rebuild of a Wurlitzer 1400 jukebox - all done and restored, but I'm not happy with the audio quality - it sounds hollowed out, like missing the mid-range. The previous owner had the amp "professionally restored" and it does look like it was done by someone who had done this before. I did notice that none of the resistors had been replaced so did a test and found most were pretty far out, so replaced those. I also tried different tubes, different cartridges, and several other easy things before breaking out the scope.


I've not done a ton of work on tube amps, so there is a possibility that this is working exactly as designed, but I don't think so. I used a sine wave at a constant Vrms input of about .7v after the coupling cap after the first tube that deals with the Wurlitzer Cobra carts. This is comparable to what I see there when I play a record. Then measured the output on the dummy load, calculate the gain, and plot a frequency response curve. What I'm seeing is a signal with peaks at about 40hz and 3Khz that drops off fast above and below and sags way down in the middle with a low at about 500hz. This seems pretty consistent with how I'm interpreting the output. Plenty of bass, highs are there, plenty of volume, but not much in the middle.


So, I traced through the amp and the response is much more flat from there, through the first 6SJ7 and up until the output of the first 6SN7 that I understand is configured as a cathode follower. From there the signal goes into a choke and resistor in parallel and then splits with two caps into the two volume pots, bass pot and assorted passive components (the treble pot is at the input to the cathode follower). I've double checked all of the wiring, the values, and the measurements of these components and everything seems to be good. The only thing that I question is that the 6SN7 cathode is measuring 37VDC and the schematic shows it as 3.5VDC. The plate is a little high (262V vs the schematic of 250V). I did disconnect everything from the output and measure the AC signal there and it does not have that strange big dip - I only see that on the output when it's connected downstream.


I'd really appreciate any help - I am happy to attach pictures, plots, or take more measurements. I'd really like to beat this thing!


Thanks,
-Steve.

Hello, I would like to ask for help and advise with my first speaker design.
My goals:

• Small on wall HT sealed sattelite with internal volume under 10l
• bass extension 60hz so I can cross it with sub somewhere between 80-120hz
• at least 85db sensitivity
• wide sound sound dispersion and good of axes

My work so far:
Choosen drivers:
Scan-Speak Discovery D2604/833000 with WG PCT-300/WG-300
Dayton audio RS180-4
Baffle desing based on Mr. Heissmann Cinetor Cinetor-Evo, Monitor | Home theater speakers
To meet the goal to keep internal volume under 10l, I want to use capacitor tuning like in this project: http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_Black Box.pdf
Volume needed for woofer based on WinIsd is 5,5l for Qtc 0,988.
My crossover in vituix for choosen drivers based on traced SPL graph from test: Test Scan-Speak Discovery D2604 / 833000 with Waveguide and FRD and ZMA files from Dayton.

I've tried to keep crossover point as low as possible cause that nasty double peak breakup of woofer. Thanks to low fs of tweeter 475hz it should be possible but I'm not certain. I will redo crossover once I will measure drivers when I buy them.
My questions:

1. 1. The main concern 1400hz crossover is almost 3 times of tweeters fs, but is it enough? Should I go higher?
2. 2. What do you think of my crossover. Is that peak around 4200hz problem?
3. 3. What do you think of capacitor tuned box? Is there some problem that I overlooked?
4. 4. Will I be really able to hit over 85db like vituix show?
5. 5. I also want to build my d-class amp from ICEpower modules. Based on WinIsd simulation anything above 54 watts will push woofer to excursion. How much power do I need 100 watt amp or 200?
6. 6. Also little bit of topic. Is 60hz low enough for 80hz crossover with sub? I've read on audioholics forum that half octave below is enough.

Hello Folks,

Doing my first Vacuum amp recapping and I found this component. I guess it's a capacitor of some type since it seems to have a uf marking on it. Ca anyone enlighten me?

Shoudl I consider replacing it? I can't figure out it's value?!?

Many thanks,

Romain

Is it possible to just use 2 fast recovery diode in place of a rectifier?

SOLD

Hi all, I've just got interested in building my own speaker after I watched a few youtube videos . I was looking at buying a decent bluetooth speaker recently but after seeing so many people building them I thought I'd give it a go, I'm a diy type of person anyway.
I'm not building from scratch and would like to repurpose a pair of old P.A type speakers. Both have 10 inch 8ohm speakers both blown, aswell as tweeters with horns, the cabinets are rated at 110 watt continuous 220watts program and 440 watts peak.
I was looking to make them both mono bluetooth speakers but I'm unsure which amp board to use as I have no experience and dont want to ruin the crossovers or blow the tweeters any help would be appreciated or if anyone could point me in the right direction I would be gratefull.
Also I would like to ask if this is advisable or if I should just start from scratch ?

apologies if this is the wrong place to ask first time using a forum

Can I safely parallel the three pins of two adjustable regulators to increase the current handling limit?

hello to all
can someone help me?
the problems is the left channel audio has gone 'wooley' and muffled
must checking the capacitors or truth solder?
the schematics of IV stage?
someone have schematics
some proposal?😕😕

Hello everybody

A while ago, I got myself a 2nd hand Teradac TDA1543 NOS. (I haven't got it here right now, so I can't look up any details, sorry)

It arrived defective but I still kept it (thought it was a bargain).
Teradac themselves do not respond to inquiries.
I have at least some spare case and parts.
Before I rip it apart, maybe it's easy?
I have 😕 no idea of how electronics behave, so I have to try to give you a description of what I hear...

Here's the symptoms:
SPDIF is unresponsive (no sound at all)
USB outputs a staggered signal, like, on-off every 1/2 - 1/4 seconds.

Does this tell you anything (what could be the cause)?
Under guidance, I could take some measurements (DMM only)
thank you
take care!

david

I have 8 sets of PCB's made by PCBway using files from Nelson Pass.

$10 each or $15 for a pair.
Shipping in USA is only $7.20 via USPS Priority mail
Shipping overseas isn't worth it considering shipping could be 2 - 4 times PCB's price.

no need for extreme power 150w at 8ohm or close.
This old torodial has some history so i can not scrap it and i need to do something with it other than scrap.
I am torn between cheap class-d irs2092 or SS amp.

Our webhosting management team is performing a manual backup task at the moment which is causing the forum to run very slow. This situation will also result in double posts appearing.

The slow response time is "normal" given the circumstance and currently the preferential option versus turning off the forum in the meantime. If it gets very slow, we'll put the forum into read-only mode, or maintenance (closed) mode. Hang tight 🙂

Forum seems very slow out here in California. Don't know why, other sites seem okay so far.

Hi all,

I've seen several older threads on this topic, but none quite get to this idea.

Like several others, I'd like to be able to provide phantom power via bettery to those that require 48v.

There are several schematics which are designed with this in mind, but they seem to involve essentially building a voltage converter. I was wondering if I could do something really simple like connect a decent 12v battery and a 12v to 48v step up converter and just wire that to the pins of an XLR cable.

Am I missing something here?

(And in case it isn't obvious, I'm definitely not an electrical engineer. I know enough to have built a bunch of PA systems and even made some portable ones thanks to batteries and voltage converters, but this is a step beyond some of that.)

This is for live use in a rock setting, so it doesn't have to be 100% noise free. I just want it clean enough and to ensure I don't do something stupid that might destroy a mic I actually like.

Thanks!

I was given some very nice OPT's a while back, 3k4 Z pri, 8r Z sec, 50w lots of laminations, would do 100w easily. They have been wound to reduce inter winding C, 5 sections pri, 4 sections sec, so, brilliant LF and LF response. So far with a proto-typed LTP I've got a flat response from 100hz to 50khz with no NFB.

I've already built 120w monoblocks, so not looking for high OP, I've wound a mains toroid for 420v HT/B+ (though there are taps for 450v) @ 1A. I've wound the OP HTR's for series connection and have two 6.3v HTR windings as well as a -100v bias/CCS winding capable of 500mA if needed, which it won't be. For the knocked up prototype the HT psu is simple, big 450v 1100u cap, with RC filters/decoupling for PS & IP stages.

I could knock up a pretty simple class AB1 low THD amp (but where's the fun in that) but am wondering about maybe trying to make it 2nd H heavy going for a bit sound sculpturing, whether this will work or is a good idea have no idea as yet.

To make things hard I'm trying to use octal valves for the front end and PS, so can't use any beefy 12BH7/ECC99/12B4A/6S4A type B9 valves, stuck pretty much with Russian 6SN7/6H8C's though I did try triode strapped 6AC7's in a LTP which I have loads of, which worked well. The triode strapped curves for this valve are very linear, have also tried a 6H8C LTP. The first = less than 1% THD @ 20v RMS OP, but 3H is higher than 2H, but by only a few dB. The 6H8C LTP about the same, under 1% THD, 2H predominates. Both using CCS tail.

Drew a load line for the IP, bog standard common cathode stage, 50k Ra, 1k5 Rk, but gain is low, about 4X unbypassed, better obviously bypassed with a cap. Could use a triode strapped pentode here or parallel two triodes.

This is all off the cuff so far, just mucking about getting a feel for things. If you had the same OP stage, what would you do? Triode strap the 807's ( pointless as have UL taps on the OPT)?? Run in AB2? Direct couple PS and OP stage; would need another winding on the mains tfmr to get -300v ish, but could be done? Cascode LTP? Any ideas suggestions welcome.

Andy.

I have a pair of simple 2 Way American Studiocraft 110 Studio Monitors circa 1970's.

I have them hooked up to my Desktop via a Rotel RX-850 Amp.

They're a lot of fun and very competent near field speakers.

I popped the drivers this afternoon to look inside.

6" Woofer & 1" Tweeter both wired directly in parallel to the Binding posts.

There is no traditional crossover as such.

The internal electronic component is a yellow part.
It has the following printing on it: " 2.2 +- 10% 250VMP ".

It's wired directly between the -ve Binding Post and the -ve Terminal of the Tweeter.

Is this a 2.2 μF Capacitor or is it a Resistor?

Thanks

Cliff

WANTED Dayton Audio IB385-8 15" WTB

Dayton Audio IB385-8 15"

Thanks

Happy Birthday Hugh

Gaetan

Good evening all. Hope everyone is safe and healthy.

It has been some time since I first dove in to diy speaker building. GRS BOFU clones in something that, I think, were TL enclosures. It's been a long time so that may be incorrect.

Anyhow, I have been toying with the idea of a pair of open baffle speakers, using full range drivers.

Historically, I have run terrified of trying to use x-overs, so my experience and final outcome have been muted by ignorance.

This post will be the first of many questions to come, but it's kind of important.

I would like to keep the size of my initial experiment on the small size.....something on the order of 17-20" W X 25-30"H

I have no clue what driver(s) to use yet, and zero foundational understanding of crossover design.....yet. This research is starting now.

My question is regarding room placement. I envision putting these speakers on the floor at either end of a 20'X14' room with sheetrock over brick walls and a 10foot ceiling, wood floors.

Further, I envision them placed roughly 2 feet from the back wall and 2feet from each side. Generally speaking, is this distance roughly what is needed to experience the speakers open-ness?

Or would they, generally, need to be further into the room?

Thanks in advance. I'm currently reading searches, so hope to find the recommendations for drivers and info on how to actually build a pair that sound nice elsewhere on the forum.

Otherwise, I'll be back with questions I'm sure.

I almost decided on building a pair of corner line arrays..
Room is 20x16,5 feet.

I haven’t heard other recommendations on listening distance other than close isn’t good with line array.

Speaker will be in corners on each end of the short wall and toed in 45 degrees.
Anybody got a recommendation for listening distance?


Best regards

Ben

Complete dac board from CAL CL-15 HDCD player

PCM1702 with Power Boss power supply(BIG)
Fully discrete output (i/v)
'Super cap" on dac power pins
PMD100 HDCD decoder
CS8412
Twin transformers

This board has a bad main processing ic , so the unit would no longer turn on.
I sold the disc drive ; only the board and chassis are left

Very well engineered circuit board. Bypassing the main ic or rerouting the power to the dac section will be required.

$75+ shipping. Chassis available for just additional shipping. .

Im building an amplifier using ICE power 500ASP+500A preamplified with a Nutube B1. I was thinking on having all in the same case, would this impact negatively?

Attached is my layout

Hi, I am willing to sell The Soundeasy BoxCad Bodzio soft for 240EUR
Or possibly exchange for Daytons audio OmniMic V2 Precision Measurement System.

Actually I need a soft just to create FRD files , that is esasy to use. Soundeasy was too complicated for me
A

Hello

Please, how to make clipping indicator for bridge amplifier (e.g. TDA8954 BTL mode)?
I found many different circuits, but nothing BTL. Everything loudspeaker to GND.
How to btl output?

hi all


i have montarbo w440a

amp board have 2 pair of mje 15035&15034

1 of the pair are shorted and became faulty after a problem in amp board

i need replacment for it


i didnt find it in my country
i will put schematic for amp

thnx

Walt Jung has long been an advocate of 2 op amp (or op amp + buffer) composite circuits and points out their advantages – check his web site; “Op amp Audio” series

Gerald Graeme has also advocated 2 op amp composite amplifier, with high loop gain from 2 pole responses – “Amplifier Applications of Op Amps” 1999 devotes a chapter to composite op amp circuits and their compensation

This sim circuit topology is close to circuits I have built and I have verified that they can achieve measured 1KHz harmonic distortion (and 1KHz IMD from 1:1 10KHz + 11KHz) below my 160dB instrumentation limit



Composite amplifiers can reduce active device contributions to audio frequency distortion to unmeasurable levels (1 V input, 20 KHz sim results: )



The output op amp is a modified integrator that provides large audio frequency gain, those in the know will object that the loop phase response, which exceeds 180 degrees around 100 KHz invites oscillation or poor recovery from clipping



(the Loop Gain Probe is available from the LtSpice Yahoo group files area - just cut it out and delete .prams lines if you don't want to use it)

The clipping response is greatly improved by the symmetrical clamping diode bridge that holds the input op amp to +/- 1 V output when the output op amp saturates, this means that the input op amp is held in its linear operating region, its contribution to loop gain and phase shift is minimized, and its output only has to slew ~ 1V to when recovering from saturation ((1.6 V @ 20 KHz input, V(n005) is Lt1022 output)



Simple back-to-back diodes would also provide for the improved clipping response, but the bridge reduces diode capacitance and nonlinear conduction current that add directly to the feedback error voltage and cause nonlinear distortion

(distortion and phase margin # may be off slightly, I plotted those with all 1N418 diodes before it occurred to me to reduce clamp voltage with Schottkys, this means diode feedthru may be slightly higher due to higher capacitance form lower reverse bias on D1,2)

I have the drivers and I am running them in a test enclosure now, connectted to a DSP and a three channel amp. Right now it is being crossed at 500 and 4K and sounds fine. The baffle is a trapezoid. The drivers are as follows.

SB23CACS45-4 8" Ceramic Woofer
SB12MNRX2-25-4 4" Norex Midrange
Fountek NeoCD1.0 True ribbon tweeter

My measurements aren't too good, my office is small and cluttered so there are a lot of hills and valleys. I will haul it all outside at some point and get a cleaner picture. Here is my Xsim3d (Had to zip it)file and some pictures.

This thread is a continuation of the EnABL Processes Thread here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100399&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

This thread is for the objective side of things. If you wish to post your listening impression, please post them here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119676

Hi All,

I have these drivers on hand and wanted to try using them together in a sealed 2-way. Also on hand are PE 0.38 cu.ft. cabs.

The 8" Daytons seem to have similar FR to the 7"s, and John Krutke paired the 7s with the H1212 in his BAMTM design, with 4th order electrical slopes on both sides, XO at 1,450 Hz. So I'm wondering if a quick and dirty way would be to use the same (or very similar) crossover with mine.

I am definitely on a budget and have little time to do a full-blown, down-to-the-last-detail design (I'm unable to use any XO software because my free spreadsheet software isn't fully compatible), hence wanting to use on-hand drivers, etc., and just achieve a listenable design, if possible.

So, do you feel these drivers are reasonably compatible, and how adapatable, if at all, is the BAMTM XO for it? If it should be modified I'd appreciate thoughts on that.

Sorry but my resources and technical skills are still limited (after all these years), so I'm still climbing the learning curve.

Thanks for your help!

Just like the title says, I'm looking for a pair of MQ 5k SE parafeed output transformers.

Thanks,
John

Hello.
If you have an opamp/jfet which produce 1nV/hz and a resistor that produce 3nv/hz of noise before. Do you have 4nv of noise or 3nv of noise ?


Thank you.

Hello all. Pray everyone is healthy heart mind and body.

Is there any nice working circlotron project?

With pcb perhaps?

I tried looking. Mike have one juma have one but not really have a pcb or guide. For my level of diy still need that lol

Hi everyone, a friend lend me a TVC (Music First Audio Classic), I putted between my dac, Hugo 2, and the power (First Watt J2) and made some test.

For my surprise I noted my amp more "vivid", with more separation and tight bass. So I made some measurements, and a I found a cut in frequencies over 5 khz. I tested with the amp full open, half and with +6db boost, always the same. But it seams the only effect, every other frequencies looks the same after attenuation.

My procedure, put Pure Pink Noise from Tidal and up the DAC volume until get 80 db. tested with AudioTool, then draw the peaks for 1 minute.

My results:

Without preamp (direct from dac to power)


With preamp full open:


No pream (zoom):


Preamp (zoom):


Are my results consistent with your experiences?

Thank you,

I am trying to determine the type and frequency of the filters in some vintage speaker crossovers (Wharfedale Denton, Linton), but can find no online documentation. There are plenty of resources, written calculations and software, that allow you to determine the component values given the frequency and filter type, but I need to go the other way round. Once you get above a first order filter, the topology seems to stay the same, but the Q of each part of the filter (2 in the case of a second order) varies for each type, and so therefor does the component value.

I can iterate through a software tool trying lots of different frequencies, but I have to do this for Butterworth, Bessel, Linkwitz-Reilly, Elliptical, etc, which is a lot of work for an oldy like me. Also, I have yet to stumble on software tools for filter types other than LR or Butterworth. What if my filter is a Bessel?

Anyone know of a shortcut of any kind, either written or in software?
Much appreciate any help. Thanks.

I am repairing a pair of JBL LX300 made in Denmark (first 5 pictures). There are two main versions Mk1 and Mk2 and maybe a third also made in Europe. The version in the LAST picture and crossover are made in USA.
My speakers are 4 ohms versions but I believe them being of similar system impedance as the US 8 ohms nominal version (measured 4.3 vs. 5.8 ohm MK1). I ONLY have one damaged midwoofer THE OTHER IS MISSING.

Vb=14.6L/Fb=50Hz
Calculated alignments are Vb=14.6L/0.52ft3(+/-16L)/Fb=50Hz with port size (D-L) 6cm/2.36"-14.8cm/5.82".

Physical and Mounting Info:
Outside Diameter (external diam. of driver) = 184mm
Bolt Circle Diameter = 167.5mm
Number of Bolts & Size = 4 @5mm
Front Mount Cutout (internal diam. of driver) = 142mm

A serious candidate to the MK1 6.5 in. (165mm) JBL 406G-1 mid-woofer (5.8 Ohm, 90dB) is the SB Acoustics SB16PFC25-08 with the basket made of composite material.

Edit: Now I know Mk1 and Mk2 don't have the same crossover and drivers. Midwoofers are different. Alternative drivers to JBL A606 don't exist but very close with similar parameters like Davis Acoustics 17MP6GR (-2dB) and Audax HM170X2 (-1.5dB, discontinued) both 8 ohms.

is this TPA3116 Bluetooth Amplifier TPA3116D2 2.1 Channel Digital Audio HIFI Amplifiers | eBay and good? i have a similar tpa3116d2 amp but i am having problems makign a proper metal box for it so i thought maybe is should just buy a completed setup like that aiyama one. this is the amp i allready have (also made from aiyma but from what i can see in the pictures the board looks diferent) TPA3116 Subwoofer Amplifier Board 2.1 Channel HIFI Bluetooth AMP 2*50W+100W | eBay

moreover i am also looking into this amp Dayton Audio - DTA-2.1BT2 100W 2.1 Class D Bluetooth Amplifier with Sub Frequency Adjustment whould it be worth it for the price of 130 dollars? or should i stick with the cheaper options?

Hi all,

I recently purchased a Elekit TU-882R (like the one here) except the one I purchased was from Japan (I got it for $80 shipped).

Now, I know I can just buy a converter to convert our American 120v down to the 100v used in this Japanese model - but I'm wondering how difficult it would be to do some more extensive internal modding/to swap out the input transformer to be able to run this straight to the wall.

I'm a newb, but I have a soldering iron and have soldered some small projects - I also have a Bottlehead S.E.X. 3.0 kit on the way so I can do that first to get some more experience before diving into this - but just curious - is this just a matter of getting the right transformer and swapping them? What's the best path forward?

Thanks!

Hello

How about Silicon Labs Class D Driver IC SI8241 / SI 8244 ?

isolated drivers, voltage up to ±750 V input-to-output and output-to-output isolation,extremely low propagation delays enable faster modulation frequencies for an enhanced audio experience

Why this IC not becoming popular in DIY and Class D amplifier ?

Everywhere all known commercial, DIY and chinese Class D Designs / Amplifier using IR / Infineon or TI Chips

Is 5 amps normal for a 5000w korean amp at idle?

Hey guys,

I’ve been considering grabbing some Eminence NSW6021-6 drivers here in the UK, I can get them for ~£720 ($895) each which I think is reasonable given the high end performance.

I have a few concerns though, on the Eminence website in the FAQ it says: “ All Genuine Eminence loudspeakers (those speakers listed on this website) are supported by a 7-year warranty against any manufacturer’s defect in the continental United States.” But that is no use to anyone outside the US, also it goes on to say that they supply kits for their “Pro” range, but no mention of the NSW6021. This is a big turn off for me an a potential international customer. I don’t want to end up with expensive drives that are not under warranty or cannot be repaired in the event of an accident or misuse.

Does anyone know if there are in fact recone kits for the NSW6021? Or are there any Eminence dealers who would be able to answer that otherwise?

I very much want to be using these drivers, but if they cannot be repaired then I’ll have to search for something else suitable which can, although these driver appear to be the best 21” drivers for the cabinets I intend to load them into.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Danny

**We're on round #5!!!**

So over the years people have asked about the old version, made by someone else.

It's probably time for an updated one. This one is a bit different. You may notice it does not have following capacitors after the choke. I have tried both ways, and my preference is strongly without the following X2 capacitors. Also the capacitors prior to the choke are not varied in size because overall capacitance is more important - and they won't randomly resonate with each other.

The other major change is the addition of bypass resistors for the chokes. These don't ruin the filtration, but they do a good job of quieting the chokes that can get excited by different combinations of things on the mains.

Click to expand...

Gen1 w/comoco's


Here's how it is different in settling time from the original.


Here's a comparison between resonances.

*2oz copper PCB (1oz is standard)
*Weco 983ZD terminals, copper alloy and can accept 2 wires for daisy chain. These are also safer, particularly if you use solid core wire that otherwise likes to make cold solder joints you can't see.
*X2 rated capacitors for safety, 4x 0.47uf. They are alternated for CFC (capacitor field cancellation).
*Discharge resistor for X2 capacitors
*Coilcraft Comoco choke w/fuse or Bourns 8120/8121-RC choke w/o fuse & 15/16A/20A(*) max sockets
*Fuse clips are beryllium copper (good for 30A)
*120/230v operation (parts & pcb)
*Mounting holes are sized to work nicely with M3 screws and standoff kits
*Size: 2.25x4.25in

Click to expand...

The Weco 983ZD are preferred terminals, but not always available as individual sale. For this reason I'm going to include them in the price of PCB, so that I can meet min order requirements for them and save everyone the shipping.

Price: $13ea ($9 per filter board same as original, $2 per Weco, 2 needed per board)

Shipping: $8 US, priority USPS box
$15 CAD
$16 General international padded envelope
If ordering over 4x boards there may be an additional $10, depending on destination.

Need 32 filter board commitments to order.

C 5x
wealas 6x
Danny23 12x
wmchugh 6x
tommylck 8x
astromo 6x
Dadbeh 4x
mirek84 6x
ravid 2x

Click to expand...

Hello. I was investigating on the possibility of using of a tracking preregulator, also for fixed load:

Using 3-pin regulators off-piste: part 4

if I well understood, this has benefits on line regulation (and noise) by separating line and load regulation for optimal perfomance. What's not much clear to me is at the end of page, when he says about the LM7805, how it comes to be linked to the 2nd regulator...more, the common pin of the LM7805 couldn't generate stability issues by connecting it "bare" to Vo?

During corona virus lockdown I build pair of 3-way speakers from cheap drivers laying around for years. It was one of these projects with not so much expectations but at the end I am listening those gems for weeks and they are fantastic. I decided to write something about it because maybe there are more people with these speakers and don't know haw to implement it. I finaly find some use fot them 🙂

Drivers are:
Woofers - AuraSound NS8
FR (or mid) - Peerless TC9FD18-08 3-1/2" Full Range
Tweeters - Cheep ebay chinese tweeters from ebay (MK Audio) costing 6.5 USD

Box for Auras are around 17 liter, port 4.7cm x 18 cm.
Separate box for TC9 and tweeter.

All is maded from 18mm MDF and double front baflle 36mm for woofer.

Crossover: 12/12db, 6/6db
Woofer: 9mh + 100Mfd
Mid: 68Mfd + 4.7 mh/0.1mh
Tweeter: reverse polarity 2.2 Mfd + 2.5Ohm

I didn't had any data for tweeter and capacitor value and resistor are choosen simply by listening and huntch 😀

I don't have any equipment for measurement so it is not pro work but it sounds great for me.

Here are what VituixCAD shows for woofer/mid with crossover, also some pictures of completed speakers.

Cheers for all friends here, stay safe 😀

Pictures of a 6829 to 7377 converters with chokes. Like oh my God! Like totally.

Tell me if I can run two wires from positive on this variac thing to the dual positive power inputs on this type of amp? Also, this transformer has ground and negative wall socket plug. Which do I wire to amp negative? I was planning on turning the transformer up to amps full 30VAC and adding thermal switch-controlled 5-12VDC fans to amp for cooling. Powering some 400 Watt speakers.

I am not real good at this, just a guy with too much fighting history having damaged my hearing looking for loud and clear audio.

Some has a CS4398 or WM8741 DAC for sale?

Only looking for offers from EU, don't want to have the hazzle with bloody customs ...

Apologies if this isn't the correct location, but since I'm building an F6..... Someone mentioned using a (from memory) a cl30 thermistor it seemed in place of a soft start to prevent blowing a fuse at power up. Acceptable? Thoughts?

There are three types that I would consider "audio grade" resistors:

1. Mundorf MOX resistor
Mundorf MOX Resistors 10 Watt: Madisound Speaker Components

2. Mundorf M-Resist Resistors 20 Watt
Mundorf M-Resist Resistors 20 Watt: Madisound Speaker Components

3. Mills
Mills 4 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor

I personally have used Mundorf MOX and Mundorf M-resist. The MOX didn't seem improve the sound but I think the M-resist did smooth out the treble at least that's what my memories told me.

I haven't used Mills so I am not sure how it compares to Mundorf resistor.

By the way, which is the better cap or at least what would be your preference: Mundorf M-Cap Supreme or Jantzen Audio Superior Z Cap? They are about the same price.

Hello
I have a few crossovers and and I meters for testing ESR and many other things. And I have a scope
Here’s my question
How can I use my scope to find the crossovers points of crossover for say a 2 or 3 way, I’d like to find where the woofer, mids and tweeters are crossed over at
I also have a diy electronic crossover. It’s prime build was as a 3 way, the former owner did some tweaking to make it a 2 way
I can’t find any info on it. It was made for
A boom buy and so on. Here’s a few pics of it
Thanks guys for any and all help

Hey folks. I have an M2Tech Palmer power supply that has stopped working! It turns on, but somewhere along its path I guess it's decided not to send power. The battery still works, but it's not doing its job. I guess my question is has anyone else had this problem? And if so, how did you fix it?

If anyone has a schematic.. that would be lovely.

Thank you!

Looking at ALEPH 5, I ran the LTSpice. Initially thought the quiescent current should be around 3A per channel, and total dissipation around 200W per channel. But the sim results show only about half of that, see attached.

Any ideas?

Thanks

FS: Satori WO24P-4, 1 pair - Available

I have WO24P-4 1 pair for sale. Visually and electrically 100% condition. Drivers were just measured, and played for ~20 hours. Not soldered. Drivers were tested in this project:
en-EV :: Pkaudio

Original packing available.

Shipment to the most of EU countries.

Price: 260Euro/1pair + shipping cost.

Hi guys, I'm Brad, first post here, been lurking and learning for a while now.
I wanted to share my build of the Forewatt preamp. This one came from the scrap box, and is my first scratch amp build, tube or otherwise. Prior to this I've just repaired equipment, or followed kits to modify it.
The preamp is built in two chassis, one for the audio circuitry, and the other for the power supply. Here's the preamp.
I did check all the old caps before deciding to use them...

Looking to upgrade the ortofon 2M silver with blue stylus to what? The arm mass is 8g , any recommendations on what to go for, Nag300, orto2m black or other?
Thanks.

I have attached a picture of a device on a small booster amplifier. Does anyone know what it is. It in a SOT-23-5 package. I would like to know the specification of it and if there is a through hole equivalent.

Thanks
Tony

Hello All

I have been repairing Klipsch subwoofer amps for about 15 years as a hobby. I have decided to start blogging my repairs and eventually do videos of each one. This thread is intended to be a blog and a resource for information. I will try to answer repair questions as best I can. Comments and tips are also welcome, If you do not have the experience or the tools, PLEASE do not attempt any of these repairs. You will only end up damaging the board and it will end up costing more for a tech to repair the damage. If you do not have a high quality vacuum desoldering station (Hakko or Weller) and a current limited mains supply, you should not be working on these amps. These subwoofers do not have any user serviceable parts inside. If you open up the sub or attempt any repair you see in this thread, you are doing so at your own risk!!!

Silly me.

Due to poor eyesight and difficult to read IC labels I plugged some OP275 (dual op-amps) into a +/-20V circuit that should have used OP27 (single op-amps).

The OP275s did run a little bit warm but not excessively so.

Have I destroyed them ?

Hello all,

I've got a bit of a head scratcher regarding a dead lm3886. Just wanting to find out what caused it.

Many years ago I built the first version of Russ White's monobloc PCB of Mauro Penasa's My_ref Rev C amp (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/54571-audiophile-lm3886-approach-38.html#post697610). The amp worked fine, but I had to put it away in storage for a couple of years whilst I was living abroad.

Recovered it recently and plugged it in again. The amp was working fine, but, the light dependant volume control in the amp was having a problem with balance (right channel was louder). As I didn't want to adjust it (annoying little thing to work with), I just removed it and did volume control through a standard 10k log pot. Rewired that, turned on the amp, measured a low DC offset at output (3mv) on the work bench.

Put the amp in the desired place, plugged an input (just an old mp3), and again measured DC offset voltage. 31V. 😕

At this point i suspect the LM3886 failed somehow. But I honestly can't find the reason for this (e.g., don't see any shortings, pcb not touching on chassi, fuses aren't blowing, ...). Now, I would imagine these things don't just fail out of the blue. Or do they? Anyone have any insight into whats going on here?

If ppl want, I can send some pics.

Thanks in advance!

just to recommend a wifi multiroom DIY module for those who love audio DIY stuff.
Up2Stream is a small WiFi multiroom preamp DIY module, it supports
-AirPlay,
-DLNA
-MULTIROOM
-Spotify
-24bit/192kHz
-lossless audio files, like FLAC, APE
...

Up2Stream can be integrated into active speakers or amplifiers to upgrade the old ones to the new wifi enabled. attached two pictures for my active speaker integration work.

for more details you may check
Up2Stream WiFi Audio Receiver Module DLNA AIRPLAY analog output
– arylic

and I also found two youtube video, the guy integrate and DIYed an amplifier with Up2Stream
YouTube

YouTube

Hello all,

Got a AMR DP-777 SE and has issue with Volume control - always at max - changing attenuation does nothing on Analog Preamp in. Sounds distorted at max vol...

I have read that the SE upgrade has issues with Volume Control chip...

Have not yet checked the DAC part...

Anyone work on one of these before? Let meknow.

Be good, and safe out there.

Any of you people that use a diy server for music and movies/ are you using regular hard drives or server hard drives ?
I’m asking this because I have over 50 dell and HP and seagate server hard drives
They use the sata input for data and power
I have ones from 360gb up to 2tb
So my question is this, is there a difference between server and pc hard drives? And if so, what is it ? I will post the model numbers of the drives I have , as I know someone will ask this. Thanks for any and all help

Anybody here good at writing data sheets and documentation of your builds?
I usually end up with some coffee and beer stained hand written notes of some basics, such as low- and high end frequency -3dB points, max signal swing, a few distortion measurements perhaps.
And usually I can't find these notes, at least not the ones I want.

So any one here good at writing datasheets? I am thinking in Excel perhaps, then pasting into Word...? Using the home electronic data machine for something other than armchair designing and youtube...

I guess I can just start doing it, but I imagine having a template to fill out, or some better tips, I might push myself to a more complete set of measurements etc.

Thanks

Hi

Yesterday I fell for an impulse and ordered a pair of the mentioned drivers from hifikit.se.
Specs:

Vas 27L
Fs 30Hz
Qts 0.51
30-20000Hz
89dB/w

Picture:
http://www.hifikit.se/showpic.php?p=prod_bilder/Gamma_BBK200F.jpg

I´m already using the bass (same basic specs but without whizzer cone) version of this driver in my closed "subs" and they sound pretty good so I´m very curious about the fullrange version.
The funny thing is that I can´t find any info about them online,
the bass version seem to have been used in a few swedish speaker kits 30 years ago but there´s absolutely nothing mentioned about the fullrange version.

My idea is to use one BBK200 and one BBK200F per channel in a 1.5 way OB setup.
If anyone has any experience of these drivers (both LF and FR versions) please share!

How do you calculate current rating for a power transformer for a tube amp power supply?

Say I have std. 2-pin crystal can. (Mine is 11.289 Mhz)
I want to make the simplest osc/clock possible ... hence, fewest parts-count I assume. The performance should be acceptible, but does not have to be audiophile-grade.
Please suggest a circuit.
Thanks!

Ok, my last thread was closed, due to my asking for help to do something extremely dangerous or illegal (converting an old intercom to a guitar amplifier). I 100% want to make sure I don’t harm myself or anyone else, so is there any value or danger in disassembling the old unit, salvaging some of the components and building a simple amp using that chassis? It already has tube sockets...

Obviously I would need to acquire the proper transformers and other parts.

Today I heard from a reliable source that Jelco is closing due to difficulties related to Covid-19, aging management, staff and equipment as well as poor profitability.


Late last year I purchased a Jelco TK-850L as a desperate last bid to have something reliable, unfussy and decent sounding for general use when I wasn't feeling tweaky. What I ended up was the best sounding and least fussy 12" arm I have encountered to date.


What a shame.


Jelco was OEM for Ortofon arms, as well as a number of others, and I suspect Jelco sourced components found their way into a lot of other people's arms.

Looking for upgrade my car audio system. One of my friend recommends me to get an Subwoofer first and then replace the head unit with an XTRONS DSP head unit. Does it matter to use DSP?

Hello everyone,

I finshed a DIY AMP and came across an interesting frequency response. My AMP should have an 6dB output but when I went to make the test it started increasing at around 2kHz and hit 8dB at 8kHz.
Can someone explain what the problem could be and what the side effects will be if I keep on using it. I've tested it and it sound good till now.

Thank you for helping me

The graph was made in excel, very amateur but I hope it helps

Hi Folks - Wanted this community to be among the first to hear about our new business launch. Excited to hear what you think.

Ostinato Speakers Launches

30 April 2020, Denver, CO

Today, Ostinato Speakers announces its launch of business operations. With a direct to customer model, Ostinato Speakers offers hand built, semi-custom, high end audio speakers at very competitive pricing.

We are pleased to go live with three high-end speaker models: The beautiful two-way Desktop, an innovative three-way monitor, and a no compromise Center Channel. In addition we also supply made to order, hand built audio cables.

Ostinato Speakers are hand built in the USA from quality materials. Featuring: Beautiful cabinets finished in real wood; Ribbon tweeters; Innovations such as user switchable cross-over and open back mid-range tunnel (Monitor).

As exclusive partner with Curt Campbell, we are proud to be bringing his highly regarded designs to market at prices more approachable than the traditional audiophile market offers.

About Ostinato Speakers
Founded in 2019 by a refugee from the corporate world, Ostinato Speakers is dedicated to building high-end audio Speakers at more affordable prices.

Contact:
Ostinato Speakers
info@ostinatogroup.com