There are several models on the marked with passive high pass crossover network for the bass transducer. Consequence is an enhancement of the bass transmission (only a small area around 40-50Hz so as acoustical low pass character of 24db/octave instead 12db/octave)
Additional the impedance goes in this area down below 1 ohms at several models. This means danger for destroy amplifier stages.
Therefore I want to have a line up of all associate impedance plots and crossover network circuits to older Infinity multi way speakers.
On the web there are only any few plots - go to the attachments.

Many thanks for the progress of the completion.

in post #43+44 under
Infinity 8 Kappa Rescue Project
there is to find an approach from me as general solution for models with minimum impedance below 3 ohms.

Except the Kappa (Reference Standard) series there are several other series, e.g. IRS-Sigma/Epsilon - go to
INFINITY IRS SIGMA TECHNICAL SHEET Service Manual download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics experts
An overall view of all models is here:
Infinity Modelle

I have this board with several frequency filters.
The one I am wanting to modify is this one.
What my intention is to bring the trigger (center) frequency down to about 50 to 75Hz, from the current 300Hz.


I don't have Spice or any of those apps, but could someone look at this circuit, perhaps suggest what part values to change for the modification.
Thanks in advance.

A friend have purchased the model "SL" and sonic quality is very good, but a bit to crispy.
Here several URL's concerning the company and short form data:
HANA | Youtek.com
Osage Audio Products, LLC
Hana S-Serie
from this cartridges I have never heard before and seems to be released at spring 2018 - go to
https://web.archive.org/web/20191105000114/http://www.youtek.jp/pdf/manual/manual_hana_2017s.pdf
according the review from Germans magazine "Stereoplay" - go to the attached PDF - I note an enhancing in the frequency response of around 6db/octave between 10KHz and 20KHz.
What values are necessary for the load (resistor, maybe even an actually unusual capacitor) for getting a flat response.
Thank you very much.

P.S.: under
Happy Birthday to Me - A New Hana Cartridge
(compare to the AT-OC9) there isn't to find the wanted information.

I modeled the Boozhound Labs moving coil head amp using the LSK170 model that comes with the latest distribution of LTSpice (add njf, place > pick new JFET, choose LSK170). I didn't define anything past that.

With 0.3mV in, I get no signal past the drain. There are no open lines.
18VDC voltage supply.
Do you see any errors?
Any possible missed steps?

This is my first solid state circuit simulation. I usually work with tubes.

Thank you for your input.

Adam

I picked up a Teisco Checkmate 20 amp and promptly ruined it.... The reverb was not working, so I decided to feed a signal to the output of the spring tank to see if the recovery circuit was working. It worked fine,(roughly have the original signal strength) so I figured that the tank was bad.
With the signal feeding into the tank output, i had the bright idea to feed the audio signal from the tank input,(output from preamp) back into the main instrument input, to see if the reverb input circuit was working.
The amp promptly oscillated, and blew a fuse. It will blow a fuse immediately if the output transistors are connected. Without them, the tremolo light flashes normally, and voltages seem sane.
I don't have any experience with germanium parts, and the datasheets I find online are vague on pinout, or else I just missed the boat. Usually the case....
Any guidance would be fantastic.
Transistors are 2SB407 Sanyo

Thanks in advance!





Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Greetings,



I am new to this site and DIY electronics in general so please be gentle.


I need to split the input from an electric instrument into 2 outputs to effectively send down 2 effects channels and finally to 2 separate amplifiers. I found a schematic (attached) which I think does what I want to do. However, I only have 5v to play with and the TL074 seems to require 6 minimum and I suspect that is +/-6.


All I have to work with is +5v, Ground, and the instrument input. I think I know how to create +/-2.5 from the 5v.


So my questions are:

1. Is there a good op amp that will operate at +/- 2.5?
2. If I remove the "Loop Through" from the schematic, replace the TC074 with something that runs +/-2.5v will this work?
3. Am I correct in assuming that if I put +5 on the v+ and ground on the v- I am effectively getting +/-2.5?

I feel like the 'nowhere man': "Ad hoc, ad hoc, quid pro quo, so little time, so much to know"


Thank you for any assistance.

Pulled out a dead wirewound radial hole-mount resistor from a tube amp I'm restoring. I cannot find this damn thing anywhere online. Specs are 160R 20W. Anyone know where I can get something similar? Thanks.

Link to photos

Sale 6P3S = 6L6, 6L6GT - 250 pcs. for $3 ea.

Asymmetric speaker system.

Satellite subwoofer systems are an effective solution to the problem of reproducing the bass frequencies in a speaker system without using the space that the more common two speaker system uses.

Having built a satellite subwoofer system in the past, I was able to appreciate the decent performance afforded by even a rudimentary system, however the placement of the subwoofer on the floor proved problematic.

One solution I have been looking at is the placement of the subwoofer adjacent to or inside the enclosure of the satellite speaker, either in a forward firing position as shown in the 3D graphic here or as a sideways firing driver, since directionality is less important for the lower frequencies.



What are the possible problems that could occur in such a system, and also what sort of dummy load is to be used if only one subwoofer driver is to be used - for example attached to the left speaker which will have an impedance of 8 Ohms for example?

Some info here, but I have not found answers yet to my questions.

All You Wanted To Know About Subwoofers

Overview of 2.1 (Satellite/Subwoofer) Spe - Maxim Integrated

Hello

Anybody would have few 2N4856, 2N4857 or 2N4858, and few 1 G ohm resistors ?

Thank you

Bye

Gaetan

I'm taking my first journey into single driver full range sound using a Wavecor FR090WA02 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range 8 Ohm driver and I had the thought of putting it in a Nautilus like TL tube. I guess technically my system will be full range and sub as I will be using a subwoofer below 150hz or so but I am really wanting to use the Wavecor FR as I have them on hand and they sound very good in a traditional closed box. I'm using a MiniDSP 2X4 for crossover and EQ purposes with circa 45 watts to the FR.

Has anyone tried to copy the B&W tube and if so how did it go? Also, can I use a standard TL calculator to design the TL tubes or is this type of enclosure actually a compression line of some kind?

Thanks for any replies.

I’ve been enjoying my homebrew WAW speakers for a couple of years. When I built them I knew absolutely nothing about speaker design so I looked around for a design I could copy. Omega speakers had a good reputation, so I made a version of one of his Outlaw speakers using a Fostex F120a and a Dayton 8” sub. It sounded good enough that I was satisfied for a while but, reliable as the sunrise, the itch for something better soon reared its expensive head so I started a thread:

Am I getting the most from my Fostex F120a WAW?

The short answer to my question was yes.

And no.

Lots of reading and advice later, I realized that I still didn’t know a thing about speaker design so I decided to try one of the Planet 10 designs using Mark Audio drivers. Dave was incredibly patient and generous with his knowledge, both on the thread and in 50-odd emails during the build process. This weekend I finished gluing up the cabinets, installed the drivers and…..wow.

The cabinets aren’t veneered yet, and the drivers still have some breaking in to do, but these are already in an entirely different league from my previous speakers. So much more dynamic, with absolutely no shout. The bass I was so concerned about is there in profusion. I really didn’t think the 12pw would compare to the Dayton sub and I was right, but in the wrong way. There is so much bass that I may have to plug up a vent or two to settle it down. I’ll play with positioning and give them more time to break in first, but this driver/enclosure combination defies imagination. They are also MUCH faster than the Daytons. I had the 7.3 enclosures done a week or so ago and, paired with them, the Dayton sounded geologically slow. The speed and extended range of the 12pw, on the other hand, matches beautifully with the 7.3. Almost like they were meant to work together…..hmm.

The woodwork is far from perfect, but I don’t think my mistakes have any effect on the sound. They were time consuming but not especially difficult to make, though I will admit that my newly-acquired track saw made it infinitely easier than it would have been using my contractor-grade table saw. Safer too.

I also made some PLLXOs as part of this project. They were done a few weeks ago and made a HUGE difference from the start, even with the old speakers. With the new drivers I can really hear the extended range of the 12pw. The midrange is filled out more completely, without a discernable gap in the handoff from one driver to the other.


Now to select the veneer, and decide whether I’m going to do the sides in black (think Devore O/96) or veneer them the same as the front baffle.

Has anybody ever tried this?

For the life of me I can't seem to find on the schematic where the center channel output is coming from. I am assuming it will have a high output impedance so I might need a buffer?

I don't know the specs of the subwoofer that will be given to me but I am sure the input impedance is around 10k.

Hi All,


I have a Cyrus 2 (rev 7), I'm looking for a good quality power supply capacitors to replace the 2 Elna 10,000uF 50V capacitors (there is a small dent on one of them).
I'm not looking for a very expensive replacement, just a good one that can be found in the UK for around 10-15GBP/cap.


Does anyone have any experience with DNM "guided current" capacitors?


Thanks

Hello

A friend of mine have a Linar 10 amp, it's a five channel amp.

One channel are burn, the output mosfet and the driver transistors need to be replace, but the numbers on the transistors are erased.

Anybody do know wich output mosfet and driver transistors are used in the Linar 10 amp ?

Thank you

Bye

Gaetan

To fix a Marantz amp I needed high voltage low noise transistors. I could use the standard 2N5401/5551 transistors but they're not exactly appreciated for their noise performance. To put this to the test I built a simple test jig. It emulates a noise figure meter, only it's not calibrated so I can only do comparisons. But that's OK. The jig (schematic on its way) has an input for a reference signal (10 kHz), an attenuator, the socket for the DUT (Device Under Test) and an opamp. The output goes to a spectrum analyzer, although a scope should be possible too.

With the analyzer I can look down to almost DC. A transistor has 1/f noise, which on my analyzer (0-10 MHz) peaks at around 2 kHz. Hence the 10 kHz reference frequency. After all, I must compensate for the amplification of the DUT. So, with my Chinese loot having arrived, I did the tests with six types, 2SA970, BC560C, 2N5401 (PNP) and 2SC2240, BC550C and 2N5551 (NPN). The results are the difference betwen the arbitrary reference signal level and the noise level for my analyzer's bandwidth:
DUT Noise [dBm] Ref [dBm] diff [dB]
2SA970#1 -41 -30 11
2SA970#2 -41 -30 11
BC560C -38 -29 9
2N5401 -39 -35 4
2SC2240 -38 -27 11
BC550C -38 -24 14
2N5551 -38 -29 9

Apologies for the crap formatting but I can't seem to be able to use HTML code... Anyway, the difference means the higher the better. These results are consistent with my expectations and the Chinese transistors are indeed low noise. Now I have to test whether they're also high voltage...

Oh, the amp (PM80 Mkii) just suffered from dry joints.

I am working on an Orion xtr5004 and I have run into a wall and need a little help. I have rebuilt the power supply and with the rectifiers out it powered up just fine. I have removed all the output fets which are irl540n's. When I put rectifiers in the amp cycles in and out of protection. If I remove the voltage regulator ics it powers up and works great, Even with the rectifiers in. I replaced the lm337 and the lm317 but with them in the amp goes into protection. I replaced both 100ohm resistors that feed the v regs as well. Does anyone have any thoughts about what could be my problem?

In case anybody feels like parting with such a unit - for a reasonable price I'd be quite interested.
Thx for looking.

Good day to all. Please help me decide on the design for the speakers SONIDO 200 SFR. Choose the Dallas II or RCA-Fan's K-slot. Thank you in advance for your help.

Amp will not power up

Here is what I get on the 494

Pin 1:0.00
Pin 2:0.00
Pin 3:0.00
Pin 4:0.00
Pin 5:0.00
Pin 6:0.00
Pin 7:0.00
Pin 8:13.94
Pin 9:0.00
Pin 10:0.00
Pin 11:13.94
Pin 12:0.00
Pin 13:0.00
Pin 14:0.00
Pin 15:0.00
Pin 16:0.00

Any ideas ?

In the past I had a very positive experience substituting a 6SN7 for the 12AU7 in a Bottlehead Crack headphone amp. You need an adaptor. I used the one available from Garage. I suspect you could try the same substitution in the TU-8600. Any thoughts?

I just bought a rockford bd1500.1 for next to nothing and it is in protect mode with no rac input or speakers attached. I am new to the diy but I am a life long audio lover and want to learn amp repair I know some basics but not enough to diagnose it any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

Hello,

I cannot find much data on this driver

does anyone have any measurements?

Its very cheap here:
JBL 5048239X 2279H Low Frequency Driver for SRX828S - Speaker Exchange

I can get the distortion data at 115db/1m for the 2268 driver (possibly similar?)
https://jblpro.com/en-US/site_elements/tech-note-jbl-s-differential-drive-transducers

Which gives a peak of about -38db for the 2nd harmonic, but its at 115db/1m, so I cannot compare it easily to my data of the AE TD12m at 100db at -55db for 3rd harmonic

AE Speakers TD12M - drivervault

Any suggestions on comparable distortion?

Use case is:
Cabinet volume unlimited.
max SPL about 110db ish?


td10/td12m would be used between 200hz and 620hz, with a 2242 (or the 2279) below that,

or

run a 2242 or 2279 from 25hz-620.

Alternatively, another driver entirely of your suggestion, but it must be good value, so either available second hand or just well priced.

Thanks.

The Voltage Amplification tubes (1st stage - 12AX7 + parallel drive 12AU7) in my amp jump really bright when first turning on the amp. A second later they are dim and appear normal.

Is this a Normal operation of this amp?

It also is much quieter out of the left channel. Obviously this part is not normal. I have a spare set of tubes to install here but before possibly damaging them, I want to see if there is something else wrong.

Thanks!

irs2092s hand made
vdo irs2092s test power1 - YouTube

Looking for a schematic for the Acoustic Research P315HO speaker system. The amp is marked Recoton Home Audio subwoofer amp. Audiovox, AR and Recoton haven't been any help.
I found two transistors shorted in the subwoofer amp, a 2SC3281 and an IRF640. I replaced them but there is still a large dc offset in the output, about 10.5 volts. Without a schematic I'm kind of just fishing.

Good day folks,
I got this Lazar EV1804D, came in in protect.

It seems to have previous work done on it. I repaired the PS and got that up, (114vdc rails, +/-15v, and +5V). I don't have any oscillation on the output FETs, all output FETs (IRFB4227) are out of the circuit.

The class D card is a 13 pin version and is fully encapsulated in a black epoxy. I haven't come across this 13pin variant of the class D card.

Below are some pin voltages, and what I traced for the 13 pin card (left to right ref to center tap sec transformer)

1: +15v
2: 1.59 vdc (spk out)
3: 1.51v
4: audio in
5: +5v
6: 6 mv (gnd/center tap of transformer sec.)
7: -15v
8: -58v
9: 1.58v (gate drive)
10: -44v
11: +58v
12: 1.58v (gate drive)
13: -58v

Anyone worked with this amplifier/driver card before and willing to assist?

Hello to you all. May this year be a happy and productive musical year.
I tried on another forum but no luck.
So I come back to DIY and have a try here.

A Dearmond Pilot V5 came in for repair.
The electronics have been removed, connectors snapped and an attempt is made to change it to a passive bass.
Finally it landed on my bench.

I attached a file of the pcb with the burned part.
The wiring diagram is available but it's the electronic schematic I need.
If unavailable, a picture of the pcb, front and rear, would help me a lot to repair that part.
If anyone could provide me with a close up picture of the burned pcb part, I will be very happy.

Thank you very much.
Cheers,

Looking for a few people interested in the Icepower 1200 AS2. We have a couple of confirmations now but need just a few more. The price would be 425+ shipping from MN each. They come in lots of 7 so if anyone interested come on board. I have found fully fleshed out enclosures to complete from Ghent audio. I'll try to link. Also try to attach the datasheet for the 1200.

https://icepower.dk/support/#download-expand

ghentaudio --- DIY Stereo Case for ICEpower 1200AS/700AS

Supplied links, datasheets were too big

Has anyone treated a FE108S or other Fostex driver?
What difference in sound can I expect from this?

Hi, I'm building a dac with AD1865 (a clone of the note audio), with the cs8414 receiver, both chips have both analog and digital power, and I was wondering: how useful would it be to separate the power supplies of the two chips? Making an analog and digital power supply for the dac, and one also for the receiver, so as to have a total of 4 power supplies, 2 each chip. All power supplies are further filtered with the tl431. Like this scheme.

Tiziano

Used NHT M60 2-way professional monitors. These were intended to be used with NHT's XdA preamp/dsp/amp and require a subwoofer for full range bass. They have no cross-overs. Despite what the box says, they are not powered monitors. You'll need to use a digital cross-over and external amplification. There have been discussions on forums about building traditional cross-overs for these with example schematics. They contain a 6" Seas woofer and 1" dome tweeter. I have 4 pairs for sale. 3 pair all original and 1 pair with similar Dayton Audio dome tweeters. At one time I used these in a 7.1 HT setup. Been sitting in their boxes for about 18 months. Time to clean out my storage. $150/pair OBO plus shipping from CA. Each box weighs 22lbs. Local pickup possible.

I've got 2 toroid transformers (Noratel model TA160/30) that humm significantly when I use a 40ah SSR to switch the 230v on.

Anyone know why this happens and if there is anything can do to fix it?

For sale the Legato 2 I/V stage for Buffalo DAC. It was used with Buffalo 9028 DAC with great results (big polystyrene caps, now sold, deserves good ones ).

SOLD

I would like to know what is the designation of these types of cores as seen in the picture (the two square shaped big ones next to the 4 el-lytes) and who manufactures these, does anyone know?

Hi,

I would like to test the MOSFET amplifier designed by M. Renardson, from
http://www.angelfire.com/ab3/mjramp/amp7.html.
http://www.angelfire.com/ab3/mjramp/construct.html
http://www.angelfire.com/ab3/mjramp/simple5.html

Did anybody experiment with it? How does it sound?

I would like to ask some advice regarding the implications of increasing the voltage from 60V to 90V and eventually adding a second pair of MOSFETS for extra output power.

Besides choosing capacitors of higher voltage for the power supply and for the 4700uF output (100V instead of 63V), do we also need to increase the output capacitor from 4700uF to 6800uf or higher in order to accomodate the extra power?

If we increase the value of the output capacitor, since it is part of the feedback loop, do we also need to adjust the values of any other components ?

Do we need to increase the value of the power supply capacitors from 12000uf to let say 20000uf?

To add a second pair of MOSFETS, I assume that I would need to add another pair of resistors (330R) and 12V zener diodes to drive these MOSFETS. Is this correct?

Any other advice is welcome 🙂

Thanks!

I have a pair of WTW towers I built some 20+ years ago, a girlfriend at the time got "us" a cat...it didn't take long for the cat to destroy the pair. The woodwork of those towers has since morphed into a reimagined Infinity Qb, tall & sleek.
Fast forward to today, the towers are in another room, now I have an "industrial" pair of vintage 12" FR...with a stout mesh grille...Not stout enough for a cat!!! Its a so stout, the cat thinks it a challenge! Damage is minimal fortunately..
But now, I have just completed one of a pair of Aesthetically "good" small FR units...fully fragile...no grille cover...
It's almost as if I should squirrel away the new small FR units...not to see the light of day??







-----------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.....

I mentioned the "Blue Glow" from the 6P3S-E tubes in my SSE in another thread. What I didn't really notice before is that they sort of act like a VU meter, but different areas of the blue glow seem to be associated with different audio frequencies.

Pretty cool, I think:

Tubelab SSE + 6P3S-E Tubes = Blow Glow Light Show - YouTube

Sorry for the bad camera work and sub-standard audio. Try to watch it before the copyright Nazis shut it down.

Reckhorn A409 - Power Amplifier & Active Low Pass for Subwoofer - Schematic wanted

I am looking for the schematic diagram for this device:
https://reckhorn.com/media/pdf/38/c1/38/A-409-Bedienungsanleitung_EN_DE.pdf
Thank you for upload.

Hello everyone, I've not been posting much on here (Normally I'm on PFM).

I have a Bedini amp that I'd like to bring back into service. Previously it had high DC offset so I have repalced the Lytic caps and the small 0.1uF cap in the feedback circuit.

The problem is that the DC offset is still too high on the left channel. The right measures 0.5mv when warm, but the left is up at 7 to 800mv.

I have checked everything and I can't find anything obviously wrong with it.

the PFM thread is here:

Testing Power transistors in circuit? - pink fish media

A similar circuit diagram is a Bedini 25/25, which is here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55167127/25_25.JPG

It has a high voltage across R21& R22 on the faulty side, but everything else is normal. I've measured these resistors and they are fine. All the transistors appear fine too. My thinking is that the transistor pairs are not balanced, or something else is amiss and I haven't spotted it

Please help 🙂

Hello to all Acoustat fans. Happy New Year!
I recently joined the Acoustat site on Facebook and was looking thru the various posts. I saw where a gentleman was asking if anyone was interested in a pair of 1+1's with Red Medallion interfaces. I responded asking if he might sell the interfaces separately. I own 4 pair of Acoustats and thought it would be nice to have a spare pair. He pondered it for a few days then replied that he would sell the MK-121C's to me. His reply said the interfaces had some upgrades: new capacitors, new speaker terminals, the high frequency capacitor was bypassed which limits the highs and degrades the sound. I was lucky he didn't live too far away from me. We made the deal and I drove yesterday to meet him and pick them up. They were in pristine condition.
I was surprised that I was the only person to reply to his post. I know how rare the Red Medallions are. I feel fortunate to acquire them.

Hello,

Hope this allowed here...

Does anyone know how I can sell the following unused modules (as new and never used)?

Tent-labs DIY Cd player modules:

Philips VAU1255/21LF (CDproM LF) drive clock modified
XO-3 reclocker with SPDIF
Display / controller
IR remote - solid aluminium anodised
All connecting cables
black anodised aluminium puck for CDPRO

This cost me quite a lot and I concerned that buyers on the normal internet auction sites will not bid accordingly. I am in the UK. Is there any better place to sell?

Cheers

Anyone have a service manual or a schematic for this unit? I've been searching for close to 3years now with no success.
Attached is a small pic of this unit.

A theoretical question for someone WAY smarter than myself...


1) We know that the output of a typical transistor power amplifier is low impedance (able to drive a low impedance device such as an 8 Ohm voice coil loudspeaker without the need for any impedance matching transformers).


2) We also know that the input of a typical electrostatic loudspeaker is very high (~10K Ohms), therefore a separate impedance-matching transformer is required to couple the low impedance output of the typical amplifier to the high impedance electrostatic.



3) Finally, we also know that the anode plate of a vacuum tube (the output point prior to the output transformer) is very high, around 8-10K ohms or thereabouts- a seemingly good impedance match to drive an electrostatic speaker.



So my question is, "Why can't we simply drive the electrostatic directly from the plate of the electron tube (through a decoupling capacitor) as the impedance at that point is already very high (7-10K Ohms) and bypass all the impedance matching transfomers downstream in the signal line?

Hi.


I'm refurbishing a pair of 2 way Interdyn Loudspeakers.


Internally these use 3.7µF Caps for the tweeters.


I have a pair of 3.3 µF Caps, and a pair of 0.47µF Caps which = 3.77 µF.


If I fit these in series will this get me over the line or is a 0.07 µF variation too much?


The poly caps are + - 5%, and the electrolytic Caps I'm removing are = - 10%.




Thanks


Cliff

Hi,
I have a pair of SPH-170 drivers and planning to use them for low frequency support of these bookshelf speakers with A7.3 probably up to 150hz.

I prefer to make a sealed enclosure because of the faster transient response and some other considerations. Vented enclosure is also an option if it turns out that the sealed will cover similar low frequency spectrum as the single Alpair drivers.

According to the opinion of a person with a great experience in speaker design and the my following simulations in the WinISD Pro Alpha, the optimal sealed volume according to the linear x-mas of the drivers is 10L.

For the simulations I used a T/S params, measured from K+T, provided by the same person who has designed TL loudspeakers with these drivers and did measuments of several drivers, probably with similar results as the provided. (slightly different from those announced by the manufacturer).

Somwhere in the internet I saw that required sealed volume is 14L, but the linear x-mas looks exceeded at relatively low power according used T/S params for my simulations.

The system will be used mainly for background music and my goal is to achieve optimal balance between sound quallity and bass reproduction.


I'll be happy if someone share personal experience in similar use of these drivers.
Also I'm open for suggestions about the speaker enclosure.

I'm not sure if this the right section. If is not, please accept my apologies and move the topic in the right one.

I will be building a pair of the mono LM1875 kits from China, how long should the heatsink be for both amps? I will be running it at 24 volts.

Hi,

if you play a driver without a baffle or on an open baffle the sound is 'open', as soon as you put the driver in a box there is this 'box sound' (sorry for my English). Is there a way to get the 'open' sound from a boxed driver ?

hi all,

how necessary is giving each chanel (right and left) its own final RC filter on B+supply if using cascode CCS (dn2540) as anode loads.

any views?

Cheers

WTD: B&C DCX 464 compression drivers

Let me know if you have a pair for sale

I am building a 3-way box for a continuum ll kit, I have figured out most details but the box volume for a trapezoid shape.

In the photo below I have exact values I would not like to change. The value I can change is the height, BUT..... I would like the height to be 38”. So, If that means the box is too big then GREAT!! I will just add 2x4’s until the box volume is reduced to the size needed. Designed for 3/4” ply



Please help me figure cuft of this box.

Thank you, Chad

“””IF””” there is plenty of room then I would concider leaning the face in slightly while keeping the back square (vertical).

Continuum II Loudspeaker Kit - Meniscus Audio

Continuum Woofer Module, Full Kit (Pair) - Meniscus Audio

I've just used my Covid economic stimulus payment to buy a new cheap home theatre amplifier. It's a 7.2 amp. I need two extra speakers for the ambience channels. I have two spare centre channels [ WTW] I want to use.
Same brand, similar drivers and crossovers as the other 5 speakers I am using, perhaps a little brighter.
For the ambience channels does it matter in what orientation they are placed?
front firing, up-firing to bounce off the ceiling or what?
I've tried searching but very little pertinent info and the manual for the amplifier has no advice I can find

Hello,
i am new here and come from germany, so my english isn't good.😡


i have planned to build a F6 and would buy the parts at diy audio store. If i buy the F6 Parts Kit what must i still buy?
and where can i find a building plan?
thanks for your help.🙂

I'm going to build a small sound room soon, and when that happens, my main system (which is a big stereo system) will move to the sound room, where I will listen to most of my music. When that happens, I want to set up a new system, but I want it 5.1 capable for movies because I've got a nice projector setup. The room is about 7.5 x 4 meters.


I initially wanted to use Visaton W130S because I've always liked the idea of a 5" bookshelf based on these, but I had to pull too many tricks in the crossover to get them to behave. I thought I'll try a Dayton Audio DC130B-8 speaker, and it looks a lot better.


I thought I'll go with a Dayton Audio TD20F-4 tweeter - it looks perfect for my purpose. I don't want to spend too much, but I want to maximize quality for the price.


I've got a nice 8" woofer to fill the bass.


The DC130B-8 has a peak at about 4k Hz, and the TD20F-4 has a bump at about 1.6k Hz. These peaks I sorted with notches integrated into the crossover.


1. Are these Dayton Audio drivers as good as they look?
2. Am I being silly with my crossover design?


Dayton Audio is telling me I'll get 88 dB for 2.83 V. Can this be trusted of this small driver?


Phase response looks ok, and I can play around with driver positioning (forward and backward) if need be.

I recently bought an used pair of Sonus Faber Amatti Homage speakers. I found the sound is diffused. Phase tester result shows that one of the midrange speakers is out of phase. The original owner had replaced one of the midrange speakers by himself but can't tell which side of the speakers he did. My question is do I just reverse the wires on the midrange speaker that is out of phase?

Hey there,


If anyone has some Pass Sony VFET Version 2 PCB'S left, please contact me 🙂




Thanks in advance,


Brzzl

Only just now after I took a a further in-depth look at the Hawk amplifier series and building a number of his designs, i realized how brilliant and innovative his designs are.

The A15 (high bias FET without feedback) opened up the image and unveiled my speaker system.

The lack of power lurked me back to the drawing board and I was lucky to be able to speak and work with John how to best increase power.

His last design was the A19 and I've adopted that design to optimize the power requirement for my system beefing the supply voltage to 50V and increasing the drive current and the number of output devices. Also switched from the Hitachi FET's to the Exicon fets.

Thanks John!

assuming passive filters and no active EQ.

Where would you place the lower crossover points? There's very little xmax.

Karlson cabinets work well fullrange and w. coaxial, but I'd like to try a mid-K to hear if there's some advantage at high spl and complex music. It could help fill in the area between a one inch format K-tube and woofer.

I have both drivers.

Aperture bracing might be needed to limit modulation.

maybe they could use aperiodic venting - most likely would run a passive
crossover at first.

Below is a CAD rendering of an RH807 amp I am constructing. Is the spacing between the OT and PT OK or should there be more?

Hi dude, I need a piece of advice:

I would like to create an audio channel strip (preamp-equalizer-compressor) all made by me and I would like to be able to reverse the order of the components (eq and comp, the preamp must always be at the beginning of the chain) can I do it with a switch? (pos1=EQ —> COMP pos2=COMP —> EQ) and if it’s not possible with a switch how can I do it?
I was thinking about relays but i don’t know how to connect them, do you may have any schematic?
Instead I would like to avoid digital switches or mosfets.

I remind you that the signals are balanced so in addition to the ground there is a positive and a negative signal in input and output from eq and comp.

Thanks a lot in advance!🙂

Massimiliano

I've got a pair of rola 12px speakers.

All I know is they are full range and rated at about 20W.
Seller claims that they require a 12 cubic foot capacity cabinet, but that feels awfully huge!

Also wanting to know if they require vented or sealed cabinets?

I'm assuming that I can get the cabinet size right down if I stuff them full of dacron?

Either way they are a nice 12 inch speaker that should go well with a tube amp as they are 5 ohms impedeance.

Hello everyone,
I was wondering if anyone had ever done a clone of the Energy 22 Reference Connoisseur speakers. I have a pair of the Reference Pro and still like the sound that comes from them. I am recently retired carpenter and looking for a project to keep myself busy so thought this might be something to try.
Any thoughts would be welcome pro or con.
Thanks and happy tunes.

what would you do with this 1000w beast? calling power amp experts

I bought this over the Christmas period. I could not find any info, so bought blind! It was not a lot of money. I liked the size of the transformer! and that is was passively cooled. It uses 3x2 Motorola MJ15003/4 and a pair of MJ15001/2 per channel. It is rated at 250w into 8 x 4 channels. Made by a Swedish company called Amtech. The only thing I could find was they had made what seemed to be a high quality mixing desk, so I sort of hoped this may be a high quality amp for studio use.

I have since tracked down a schematic and circuit diagram, attached.

My intended use is to drive via a dsp active crossover (dbx venu360) a pair of 8" bass units on my hybrid Innersound Isis ELS, and a pair of Linkwitz open baffle subs, in a domestic hifi environment.

Any thoughts if this is with bothering with, I am worried by its PA spec, maybe someone could suggest swapping out parts or boards to make a better unit? ideas?

World’s Best Speakers! - YouTube

This guy employs engineering and scientific methods in creating what he says are the world's best speakers. These might make good PA speakers for permanent installation. I think these speakers have the potential to provide accurate sound and superb coverage in most spaces and they are cheap to build.

:eek:Trigger Warning: Some of the content in the video may trigger cognitive dissonance and hostility in sensitive individuals. Most of you will enjoy it. 🙂

Give me your thoughts on the video.

Thank you.\

Dear people,

Because a picture is worth a thousand words I have attached a visual representation of my questions below.

In a mock up amp I have made mini star grounds per stage which connects directly to a buss bar as in option 1 on the picture. Amp is very quiet hum wise.

Now for layout reasons I am considering connecting the mini star grounds to the buss bar through a short wire, as in option 2 on the picture.
Would this be detrimental because the local grounds now share a single wire before connecting to the bus bar? Would the connecting wire need to be thick?

For saving chassis space I am also considering option 3. Yes, in this option chassis is used as a ground connector, but the grounds are ordered in mini stars before connecting to chassis and the chassis grounds are ordered in a straight line. Chassis is used as the buss bar.
What would be the downside of this option?
Could a possible problem be that the fields of the power transformer interfere with the chassis ground reference?

Now I finally see I was doing it completely wrong! All my cables are passive.
Check this out:
Tube powered active cable interconnect 1m | eBay

Radical Tweeter Capacitor...

This thread was split off from here: The "Elsinore Project" Thread - Page 46 - diyAudio

LET'S GET RADICAL - THE RADICAL TWEETER CAPACITOR

This is the beauty of DIY, please read the following as it is an optional add-on to the Elsinore design.

I have stated previously that I reckon the series capacitor to the Tweeter, the so-called High-Pass filter capacitor, is the single most critical crossover component (not that the others remain unimportant). There are some fairly unknown (generally speaking) reasons behind this and here is the first time I have actually stated more precisely the reasons for it.

Research has shown that THIS capacitor is prone to nonlinear distortions and particularly of the IMD (intermodulation distortion) kind. When capacitors directly in the signal path sees an AC signal that traverses zero Volt DC - and that is really what AC does - the distortion is primarily odd order (bad kind), but if the same capacitor is biased DC wise, then it becomes more even order (sweet kind). We know that if we have to choose between those we'd take the latter any day.

What this means is that capacitors directly in the signal path will sound better in most amplifer circuits where it is used to block DC, such as in tube amplifiers, BUT... when it comes to speakers, there is no DC and hence in speakers the very same capacitor will potentially sound worse.

Since we don't want DC in our speakers, we really are stuck with a bad situation.

Or are we?

Take a look at this:



BEFORE: Shows the current crossover.

AFTER: Shows the same crossover in-so-far that the series capacitor has the same 4.7uF value when the series-parallel configuration is taken into account. Then the crossover function is exactly as before.

So what is going on here. Simply the 9V battery (should be new alkaline and about 9.5V) available at just about any corner shop, biases the coupling from the centre outwards. Without any signal to the Tweeter, both sets of caps see the same 9.5V across it. This is because it is 0 Volt DC on the other side of both caps.

When an actual AC signal (music) comes along, when positive, the voltage will swing upwards above the 9.5V and there will be no celing and when it goes negative, it will eat into the 9.5V of the battery. So the available voltage swing where DC remains across both side (caps) is +infinite/-9.5V - or put is another way, it is able to swing 6.7V RMS before the bias (not the signal) clips on the negative side.

Now can you guys understand why I like and recommend external crossovers (easier access)?

PARTS: You will need to quadruple the number of your 4.7uF caps, although you could also use 10uF - but the result will be 5uF instead of 4.7uF, so you might perceive a little more energy in the presence region. The 100K resistor should be a good quality 1 Watt type. The battery should be a long life alkaline type. The resistor limits current to 100uA pretty much all the type. A couple of battery snaps/wires that clips onto the batttery.

BTW, you could double up on the battery and get an effective 19V DC Bias. Whether that would be audible probably depends how loud you like music? Haven't tried, only 9.5V.

How long will the battery last? Almost certainly for years and close to its shelf life. Just check its voltage from time to time.

I am not going to tell you in advance about any sonic gains. I don't want to telegraph your reactions and I want them to be fresh and in your own words.

SO WHO WILL BE THE FIRST CAB OFF THE RANK?

Joe R.

so i haven't built anything in a long while last thing i built was a slightly modded pair of zaph zrt 2.5's several years back, life got busy and hobbies went on hold.

Anyway sob story over. I have had several drivers kicking around that i picked up on various sales that i intended using for projects that i never got round to. I'm thinking rather than just sell them i could probably knock out a half decent pair of garage/party speakers. I'm thinking largish cabinets somewhat vintage jbl, vega looks 3 way.

i started working on a crossover but i cant get it to play nice across the whole range.

not sure if anyone would mind having a crack at helping me find a half decent starting point, i have built several successful 2 way designs but this 3 way is kicking my butt.


I'm not aiming for perfection here just a good all rounder for knocking the tunes out in the garage and getting the wife off my back by freeing up some closet space.

I have a feeling the xt25bg60's wont be ideal in an off axis listening environment like a garage but i don't really want to throw a bunch of money into different drivers.

drivers i have

2x Peerless NE265W-08 10inch

2x Peerless TPY05W08O0088 5-1/4inch

2x Peerless XT25BG60-04 1" Dual Ring Radiator Tweeter


i also have a pair of focal/jmlab t98ti tweeters that may work but i can't find any data on them.



i have been using Jeff Bagby's passive crossover designer but i cant seem to get it to save the data out properly to share but i have attached the spec sheets, zma and frd files i made from the spec sheets. i dropped it all in my google drive including the xls it just wont load up properly on another computer for some reason or other.


classic 3 way - Google Drive

Can anyone tell me how the anti-vibration circuit is configured on Rega's 24V motors. My understanding is that it is mostly a typical arrangement with a phasing capacitor, but there is also a trimmer to adjust the phase angle. Is this a variable resistor to adjust the voltage, or a variable capacitor to adjust the capacitance value and how is it supposed to be wired in respect to the coils?

I'm resurrecting an RP3 that fell victim to a PSU failure and the PCB sustained some damage, including a couple of missing traces and damaged markings on components. Any help greatly appreciated.

Hello!
Anyone has successfully built this amplifier? Would you share your thoughts and experience?

monobloc-se-32-cfb-2012version

How it sounds??

Thanks in advance!!

just wanted to share my experience with the 1629 magic eye tube. Many years ago I fell upon Steve Bench's site -now can be found here- where he mentions his experience and measurements of the 1629.
Out of curiosity I ordered then a couple of tubes but after that I got busy with other projects and obligations and forgot about it.
Last week as was browsing my archive I remembered about it and decided to give it a try. I made a quick and dirty assembly on a small piece of plywood and went on to take some measurements. In this grounded cathode configuration the output impedance is very high, at about 13.4k, and so it it is unsuitable for driving any power amp with low input impedance. So I went on and added an ECC82 cathode follower, DC coupled. HV is at 305V regulated with LR83N, one per channel. Heater supply is DC elevated by 45V. Maximum output is a healthy 44Vrms before clipping.
The circuit is free of hum despite being so close to power xformer, however the 1629 has somewhat high thermal noise so I put the volume control at the output and now is totally silent even at high listening levels.
Listening experience was a very pleasant surprise and hence this post 🙂 Steve measured a predominant 2nd harmonic and this shows indeed in practice. The preamp is really sweet sounding but not to the expense of detail, I could say the exact opposite. It plays so nice that I am really tempted to built a proper chassis for it, despite the fact that I already have another three 🙄
And by the way an added advantage with this is that you have a pair of beautiful eyes to look at while enjoying your music 😀

Hi Friends,

Is there any physical requirement forcing makers to make the tubes so huge? Can they be miniaturized? Now adays there are mechanical parts inside microchips (gyros, accelerometers....) so why not tubes at the size of a 2000uF capacitor for example?

Does anyone knows?

ADAM S5VAmk2 Crossover Board Repair

Hi - I'm looking for any advice, or possibly a schematic diagram for a 4-channel filter board (crossover) from one of my ADAM-S5VAmk2 Studio monitors. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone, i started this thread because i never heard a lm1875 amp and want to know more about it. I have plenty of lm3886 and i'm very impressed by its sonic qualities. Very nice sounding and super low end reproduction but i don't know about 1875. As you know this one is the ultimate warrior of 5 pin chipamps (UTC 2030/50 hard to find here and globally) and that's why i want to store couple of them for future diy projects. It's not about power or vanishing THD figures, just think about a good 20watt amplifier. How it sounds? 🙂 Btw i have made 2030 and 2050 in past and liked both.
Tda2030A was good at low end and i found 2050 little bit bright but strong

Hello, me again...

I‘m in the pre-final stage 😇 of my F4 build, connscting stuff.

There will be 1 connection through a ICL to the chassis from the PSU (and the amp-boards connected to the PSU), the connection of the IEC safery earth, and there‘s a last one, the toroidy transformer...

I‘m not sure wether I should connect them all to 1 point only, or wether it is ok to have the star-ground on one end of the chassis, and iec-safety-earth & toroid at the other end?

Or even something else?

Thank you for advices!

hello all,
here is my problem with my old hcca 250r.


The 2 rectifiers on the under side of board where pulling lot s of juice, once they where off voltage was ok. I am wondering the guy who fixed or tried to fix it maybe he did not put them back at the right place. I see they are 2 different rectefiers, here are some pics.


I would love to know wich one goes where.

Thanks guys and sorry for not posting in right place before 😉

Shared album - Bud Man - Google Photos


Shared album - Bud Man - Google Photos


Shared album - Bud Man - Google Photos

Having a garage clear out and found a Turtle Beach Audiotron unit.

Free to anyone that wants it - you just pay for postage at cost.

I think I still have the remote control for it - i'll go looking for it...

UPDATE 1/10/21 BOTH KITS SOLD!


UPDATE 1/9/21: Kit 1 SOLD! Kit 2 AVAILABLE!

Please read carefully.

I have 2 New In Box Spud Kits. Link: The Spud Kit – …hearing is believing

Kit 1: New in Box with an extra set of NOS RCA tubes.

Kit 2: New in Box but does not have have the metal chassis plate. Does have a punch sheet for you to drill you own chassis OR contact Jerry to purchase a steel base.

I am local to NYC and can meet for pick-up. Current cost of kit is $390.

Kit 1: Asking $200 and you pay actual shipping; I'll email weights and dimensions No S&H charges.

Kit 2: Asking $175.


Nick



EDIT ADDED: Shipping is $21.10 USPS Flat Rate. I prefer USPS Money Order (I have excellent feedback on eBay, Audiogon, US Audio Mart and Audio Circle) but I'll take PayPal plus 3%.

Hello, I am building MX50 amp. Already ordered amp modules. Transformer will be 150VA 22-0-22 as recommended and calculated on some forums and it will provide sufficient power for my needs.



Now - it is highly recommended that speaker protection board has independent power supply . Does it mean I need power transformer with more secondary windings or totally separate PS?



Are those protecting board affect sound quality? Is it better to but or make a DIY one?


thank you