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Troubleshoot noise in tube-amp, volume pot dependent
- By itsikhefez
- Tubes / Valves
- 80 Replies
Attachments
FAST/WAW speaker with ScanSpeak 22W/8857T-00 and HiVi B3S or RS100 or something else?
- By Jimmy154
- Full Range
- 21 Replies
Been following this thread:
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
I agree with a lot of the theory surrounding this speaker and setup, that's kind of rare for me. Mainly that a speaker should be centered around the largest woofer.
Is there a SS 22w thread?
I like this enclosure for the 22w:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Ellam-3W/ellam-flex-3w-cabinet-large.png
I might have to change the height, but I figure if I keep the length the same it should be okay. Or I might build a ported enclose that is tuned low. But I think I would like a TL.
Which full-range should I use? I like the look of the Seas 3-4 inch or at least a cast basket.
Some things took me way to long to realize:
I don't like highs, especially dome tweeters.
Most speakers have too much midrange and way too much treble, for my taste.
I usually EQ the treble down by 8 db and mids down by 6 db and raise the bass up by 12 db on a 2-way.
I have a "flat FR response" Dayton C-note kit I listen to now and I even have to turn the treble way down and bass way up on the receiver.
Audiophiles "trash" Bose speakers (and I do to 😀), but who is listening to these C-notes? They are PAINFUL 😱 to listen to un-EQed.
I had some Usher 2-ways in the same location.
Bought them from Joe D., the usher consultant. Put every usher woofer and tweeter in them, similar issues to the C-note.
I like Bose 301's better than any domed tweeter speakers I had in that location.
I do okay with ribbons and AMT's and Vifa/SS ring radiator, but I think I can do without.
Maybe a FAST with ring radiator or AMT?
Also I don't know what the acronym FAST stands for
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
I agree with a lot of the theory surrounding this speaker and setup, that's kind of rare for me. Mainly that a speaker should be centered around the largest woofer.
Is there a SS 22w thread?
I like this enclosure for the 22w:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Ellam-3W/ellam-flex-3w-cabinet-large.png
I might have to change the height, but I figure if I keep the length the same it should be okay. Or I might build a ported enclose that is tuned low. But I think I would like a TL.
Which full-range should I use? I like the look of the Seas 3-4 inch or at least a cast basket.
Some things took me way to long to realize:
I don't like highs, especially dome tweeters.
Most speakers have too much midrange and way too much treble, for my taste.
I usually EQ the treble down by 8 db and mids down by 6 db and raise the bass up by 12 db on a 2-way.
I have a "flat FR response" Dayton C-note kit I listen to now and I even have to turn the treble way down and bass way up on the receiver.
Audiophiles "trash" Bose speakers (and I do to 😀), but who is listening to these C-notes? They are PAINFUL 😱 to listen to un-EQed.
I had some Usher 2-ways in the same location.
Bought them from Joe D., the usher consultant. Put every usher woofer and tweeter in them, similar issues to the C-note.
I like Bose 301's better than any domed tweeter speakers I had in that location.
I do okay with ribbons and AMT's and Vifa/SS ring radiator, but I think I can do without.
Maybe a FAST with ring radiator or AMT?
Also I don't know what the acronym FAST stands for
Nice to be here ;)
- By Aurel23
- Introductions
- 3 Replies
Hello everyone, very happy to add the community.
I am Aurelien, from France, live in Spain, speaker design lover, I do some DIY designs like BT speakers or PA systems, I can bring my help on some threads I guess and sometimes I will need yours mostly when I am locked an eletronic problems
Cheers
Aurel
I am Aurelien, from France, live in Spain, speaker design lover, I do some DIY designs like BT speakers or PA systems, I can bring my help on some threads I guess and sometimes I will need yours mostly when I am locked an eletronic problems
Cheers
Aurel
FS JLester TPA3255 48v passive post filter feedback amps and power supplies £99 each
- By stretchneck
- Swap Meet
- 5 Replies
Up for sale, a total of five pairs of unfinished TPA3255 amp boards and power supplies. All brand new.
Each pair includes
Asking £99 per pair (power supply and amp) plus shipping. Discounts if you want to buy more than one.
To complete each amp board all you needs is:
Plus other ancillaries and chassis etc... which are not included.
You will need to make the following easy amend to the boards as TICore260BTL Version "V1A" has a small fault that when right channel exceeds certain power output, the module goes into protection mode. This is overcome by lifting C17, then connect the ground of C17 to ground plane on C16. (Picture attached)
Good performance from these. Any questions please ask.
Gavin
Oxford, UK
Each pair includes
- One TICORE260BTL TPA3255 STEREO PFFB 48V (PARTIAL KIT) AMPLIFIER MODULE with the four premium coilcraft VER2923-103KL inductors installed.
- One AliExpress 800w 48v low noise power supply (KAYPW Switching Power Supply Light Transformer, as used by XRK on his builds)
Asking £99 per pair (power supply and amp) plus shipping. Discounts if you want to buy more than one.
To complete each amp board all you needs is:
- One ATS-TI1OP-519-C1-R3 heatsink (available on mouser, costs just over £5)
- 2 pcs OPA1656 or LME49860 on SOIC-8 to DIP-8 adapter ENIG PCB - readily available on the internet
- 4pc tank caps: 1800uF 63V low impedance (e.g. panasonic EEU-FC1J182, about £2 each)
Plus other ancillaries and chassis etc... which are not included.
You will need to make the following easy amend to the boards as TICore260BTL Version "V1A" has a small fault that when right channel exceeds certain power output, the module goes into protection mode. This is overcome by lifting C17, then connect the ground of C17 to ground plane on C16. (Picture attached)
Good performance from these. Any questions please ask.
Gavin
Oxford, UK
Attachments
DCB1 Hypnotize with Naked Foil Rs
Selling my DCB1 Hypnotize with all premium naked foil resistors mounted in a test chassis.
$150 plus shipping. I will ship this international, however, be advised that shipping times are very slow right now....
It's currently setup without a pot, I can put a Dact style 10k pot in for you.
Cheers,
Greg
$150 plus shipping. I will ship this international, however, be advised that shipping times are very slow right now....
It's currently setup without a pot, I can put a Dact style 10k pot in for you.
Cheers,
Greg
FAST or STAFT (WAW or STAW) Which is Better?
- By xrk971
- Full Range
- 163 Replies
I recently made a 2-way bookshelf as an homage to the venerable LS3/5A. However, I implemented a crossover well above the usual 2.5kHz to 3.5kHz frequency normally used for 2 way speakers. I put the crossover at about 5.5kHz and used a modified inverted passive Harsch XO to achieve semi-transient perfect behavior and the resulting sound is so natural and great sounding. As the so-called “telephone” band that is so important is often described as frequencies from about 500Hz to 5kHz where most vocals, instruments, and soundstage spatial cues are contained in this frequency range. It would seem that the speaker I made might be called a Super Tweeter Assisted Fullrange Texhnology (STAFT) - the long lost brother of the FAST speaker. Some people like the WAW acronym vs FAST and mods have been going through all the threads and renaming them or adding WAW wherever they see FAST. So in that case, the acronym would be STAW or Super Tweeter Assisted Wideband (STAW). Whatever you like to call it, what I am noticing is that it produces a very natural lifelike sound with superb imaging and soundstage. So much so, I am building very special wooden cabinets for what was a foam core prototype.
Here is the measured frequency response showing the contributions from the woofer and the tweeter:
Here is the measured step response exhibiting a near right triangle shape indicative is a transient perfect speaker:
In this case, the woofer is really a wide bandwidth woofer capable of producing bass and mid range up to 5kHz and the tweeter is a conventional soft dome capable of crossing as low as 1.5kHz but I chose to do it at 5.5kHz. So the STAFT has the advantage of very nice highs and shimmer that many of us miss from a single cone fullrange driver. Even the some of the best and most highly regarded fullrange drivers like the Scanspeak 10F really only go up to about 16kHz. Whereas a true dome tweeter goes well above 20kHz. And the bass from a “midbass woofer”‘ is generally a lot better than the bass from a fullrange driver. So I suspect that this combo may just be the best of both worlds.
One other thing to note is that most natural sound sources like voice and instruments tend to lie either below or above the 5kHz to 7kHz range. Thus, the crossover doesn’t have to split the critical human voice or piano right in its most important (and audible) 1kHz to 3kHz region.
Here is the simple crossover:
And this is the speaker implemented in foamcore:
And a wooden version that will look something like this is being built:
I have been listening to this as a nearfield monitor for several weeks now and really enjoying the sound. I love the precision soundstage and imaging. I like how natural it sounds. I like the dynamics and the presence of high hats and cymbals. The upper end response of the RST28F-4 tweeter is remarkably clean for a $37 tweeter. I think what also contributes to how clean the tweeter sounds is the very high crossover so that the cone doesn’t move much and this doesn’t distort. The midbass is a low cost DC130A-8 treated paper cone. It was chosen for its deeper bass reach in a small sealed cabinet vs the more expensive RS150 or RS150P variants from Dayton.
This speaker also has a very benign electrical impedance curve:
Definitely never drops below 7ohms and averages closer to nominal 10 to 12ohms and so is perfect for most amplifiers to easily drive.
So the question is, would a STAFT generally play most music better than a FAST? Maybe it depends on if you really like the sizzle of a true tweeter.
We have of course see large 8in or bigger fullrange drivers with a super tweeter assist
But what I am calling for here is to pick a good wide band midbass or woofer rather than a fullrange driver. Perhaps the RS225-8 and an RST28F-4 in a waveguide with a high XO would be a similar type of thing? A modification of this system
Might produce another STAFT type speaker:
Passive XO for Time-Aligned RS225-8 and RS28F in Waveguide
Here is the measured frequency response showing the contributions from the woofer and the tweeter:
Here is the measured step response exhibiting a near right triangle shape indicative is a transient perfect speaker:
In this case, the woofer is really a wide bandwidth woofer capable of producing bass and mid range up to 5kHz and the tweeter is a conventional soft dome capable of crossing as low as 1.5kHz but I chose to do it at 5.5kHz. So the STAFT has the advantage of very nice highs and shimmer that many of us miss from a single cone fullrange driver. Even the some of the best and most highly regarded fullrange drivers like the Scanspeak 10F really only go up to about 16kHz. Whereas a true dome tweeter goes well above 20kHz. And the bass from a “midbass woofer”‘ is generally a lot better than the bass from a fullrange driver. So I suspect that this combo may just be the best of both worlds.
One other thing to note is that most natural sound sources like voice and instruments tend to lie either below or above the 5kHz to 7kHz range. Thus, the crossover doesn’t have to split the critical human voice or piano right in its most important (and audible) 1kHz to 3kHz region.
Here is the simple crossover:
And this is the speaker implemented in foamcore:
And a wooden version that will look something like this is being built:
I have been listening to this as a nearfield monitor for several weeks now and really enjoying the sound. I love the precision soundstage and imaging. I like how natural it sounds. I like the dynamics and the presence of high hats and cymbals. The upper end response of the RST28F-4 tweeter is remarkably clean for a $37 tweeter. I think what also contributes to how clean the tweeter sounds is the very high crossover so that the cone doesn’t move much and this doesn’t distort. The midbass is a low cost DC130A-8 treated paper cone. It was chosen for its deeper bass reach in a small sealed cabinet vs the more expensive RS150 or RS150P variants from Dayton.
This speaker also has a very benign electrical impedance curve:
Definitely never drops below 7ohms and averages closer to nominal 10 to 12ohms and so is perfect for most amplifiers to easily drive.
So the question is, would a STAFT generally play most music better than a FAST? Maybe it depends on if you really like the sizzle of a true tweeter.
We have of course see large 8in or bigger fullrange drivers with a super tweeter assist
But what I am calling for here is to pick a good wide band midbass or woofer rather than a fullrange driver. Perhaps the RS225-8 and an RST28F-4 in a waveguide with a high XO would be a similar type of thing? A modification of this system
Might produce another STAFT type speaker:
Passive XO for Time-Aligned RS225-8 and RS28F in Waveguide
Mucking about with damping and stuff.
- By rex_johnston
- Multi-Way
- 4 Replies
Hi All,
I thought i'd document my current project, a hybrid centre speaker for my home theatre system. I'm currently building the above to compliment better my current left & right fronts, which are a no-baffle fullrange complimented with a TL sub and a horn loaded ribbon tweeter. The current centre is an old wharfdale devondale 3 lying on it's side. The wharfdale is great, but i think i can do better.
I'd decided on an open baffle mid (pioneer DSS9 midrange i'd had sitting about for years) and horn loaded ribbon (another pioneer unit), vertical layout, with a 12" bass on each side. I'm not yet convinced about sealed/open benefits of the bass drivers, though with a Qt of about 0.5, i could go either way, i'll cross that bridge later. Anyway, onto the mid and tweeter. Flush mounted onto a piece of hardwood, 1:1.61 offset, fired up REW and pulled out a linkwitz style mic and measured the midrange.
Oh dear. Listening, there was a distinctly gritty sound. Something was rattling around in the magnet gap. Undeterred, i unscrewed the 3 magnet fixing screws with polygrips, the old glue presented no issue and pop, off came the huge magnet.
Yep, crap in the gap. After a blow out with the compressor a good scrape with a bit of blunt stainless (from a windscreen wiper) then a final tweezering out, the gap was empty. The voice coil appeared to be edge wound, silver coloured (plated?) and wound on paper. The cone, vapour deposited coated titanium. Quite a bit of effort gone into this driver, worth saving.
Back together, re-aligned and re-measured and voila!
Now to deal with those nasty breakup modes...
I thought i'd document my current project, a hybrid centre speaker for my home theatre system. I'm currently building the above to compliment better my current left & right fronts, which are a no-baffle fullrange complimented with a TL sub and a horn loaded ribbon tweeter. The current centre is an old wharfdale devondale 3 lying on it's side. The wharfdale is great, but i think i can do better.
I'd decided on an open baffle mid (pioneer DSS9 midrange i'd had sitting about for years) and horn loaded ribbon (another pioneer unit), vertical layout, with a 12" bass on each side. I'm not yet convinced about sealed/open benefits of the bass drivers, though with a Qt of about 0.5, i could go either way, i'll cross that bridge later. Anyway, onto the mid and tweeter. Flush mounted onto a piece of hardwood, 1:1.61 offset, fired up REW and pulled out a linkwitz style mic and measured the midrange.
Oh dear. Listening, there was a distinctly gritty sound. Something was rattling around in the magnet gap. Undeterred, i unscrewed the 3 magnet fixing screws with polygrips, the old glue presented no issue and pop, off came the huge magnet.
Yep, crap in the gap. After a blow out with the compressor a good scrape with a bit of blunt stainless (from a windscreen wiper) then a final tweezering out, the gap was empty. The voice coil appeared to be edge wound, silver coloured (plated?) and wound on paper. The cone, vapour deposited coated titanium. Quite a bit of effort gone into this driver, worth saving.
Back together, re-aligned and re-measured and voila!
Now to deal with those nasty breakup modes...
Anyone heard a Grundig Fine Arts M-100 CD Player?
- By Sonusthree
- Digital Source
- 4 Replies
Hi,
I have the chance to buy one of these players quite cheaply. I have a strong recollection form somewhere that the 'Fine Arts' range was very highly regarded but I can't find find any specifics.
The one I'm referring to is the MT-100 and is a kind of gold/champagne colour. It looks about 3/4 width as if it came from a mini stack system.
Anybody heard one of these? Is the fine arts range similar to the Sony 'ES' range. i.e. is it a special flagship range?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Regards,
Martin 🙂
Edit: Just worked out it is actually an M-100 😀
Oops! My research may be more effective now.
Back to Google ..............................
I have the chance to buy one of these players quite cheaply. I have a strong recollection form somewhere that the 'Fine Arts' range was very highly regarded but I can't find find any specifics.
The one I'm referring to is the MT-100 and is a kind of gold/champagne colour. It looks about 3/4 width as if it came from a mini stack system.
Anybody heard one of these? Is the fine arts range similar to the Sony 'ES' range. i.e. is it a special flagship range?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Regards,
Martin 🙂
Edit: Just worked out it is actually an M-100 😀
Oops! My research may be more effective now.
Back to Google ..............................
Attachments
Marantz SM6100sa digi-resto-mod phase I
- By kwadrofonik
- Solid State
- 2 Replies
Hey everyone. I haven't posted here in years. I know just enough to be dangerous. I just completed the first phase of restoring my Marantz 2CH (circa 2000-ish). This was one of my favourite amps because of it's simplicity, but lately I noticed the sound falling flat. It was never a Bryston but it was getting outright boring.
I upgraded components based on the Ver.2 upgrade parts manifest (attached) as well as some things that stood out to me:
- Replaced all electrolytics with Nichicon audio
- Instead of the Ver.2 spec 15000uF main caps, I used 10000uF caps like before, but placed a pair of 47uF Nichicon Muse caps closer to the transistors
- Replaced the secondary rectifier bridges with schottky 1A diodes
- Replaced the film caps with WIMA polypropylene 2.5%
- Replaced the main power traces with symmetrical 18GA copper
- Replaced the input/output wires with shielded copper
- Shielded the AC
- Removed the variable input
I can say now that I am a believer in basic stuff that some have called snake oil remedies. The difference is night and day! This amp sounds better than anything else I've heard out of Japan. Premium audio caps, schottky rectifiers, wire shielding, and trace fortifying make a huge difference when combined.
Phase II will be installing my USB 24/196 DAC directly into the case, eliminating the interconnects and yet more solder joints.
Out of this project many questions arose that I wonder if you could help me with. Don't bother writing a novel when a sentence will do:
1) If I put my ear against the left speaker with no inputs, I do hear a VERY faint 60hz hum. The right speaker is dead silent. When I play music it sounds crystal clear. Any ideas where to start looking? The Sanken transistors are original and have never been abused. The JRC2068DD op-amps are original as well. Those are the things that are great about this amp so I didn't touch them. Here is a top-down view and I've attached the PM8200 service man pages which have the same output stage.
2) I haven't tied the shielding down yet because the amp is ungrounded. Should I a) Tie them to the floating case? b) Install a grounded power cable just for the case/shielding or c) tie them to 0V?
3) Why do they put the rectifiers on the audio board? I understand that the caps need to be close to the transistors, but why not rectify the power and smooth it with one set of caps then send it over to the audio board and smooth the ripple with a second set of caps, thereby removing the AC current from the audio side? Two smaller caps are the same price or less than one cap of the same size anyway. I would have removed the bridges from the board already if the hum was coming from both speakers.
Thanks in advance and also thanks for all your inspiration!
I upgraded components based on the Ver.2 upgrade parts manifest (attached) as well as some things that stood out to me:
- Replaced all electrolytics with Nichicon audio
- Instead of the Ver.2 spec 15000uF main caps, I used 10000uF caps like before, but placed a pair of 47uF Nichicon Muse caps closer to the transistors
- Replaced the secondary rectifier bridges with schottky 1A diodes
- Replaced the film caps with WIMA polypropylene 2.5%
- Replaced the main power traces with symmetrical 18GA copper
- Replaced the input/output wires with shielded copper
- Shielded the AC
- Removed the variable input
I can say now that I am a believer in basic stuff that some have called snake oil remedies. The difference is night and day! This amp sounds better than anything else I've heard out of Japan. Premium audio caps, schottky rectifiers, wire shielding, and trace fortifying make a huge difference when combined.
Phase II will be installing my USB 24/196 DAC directly into the case, eliminating the interconnects and yet more solder joints.
Out of this project many questions arose that I wonder if you could help me with. Don't bother writing a novel when a sentence will do:
1) If I put my ear against the left speaker with no inputs, I do hear a VERY faint 60hz hum. The right speaker is dead silent. When I play music it sounds crystal clear. Any ideas where to start looking? The Sanken transistors are original and have never been abused. The JRC2068DD op-amps are original as well. Those are the things that are great about this amp so I didn't touch them. Here is a top-down view and I've attached the PM8200 service man pages which have the same output stage.
2) I haven't tied the shielding down yet because the amp is ungrounded. Should I a) Tie them to the floating case? b) Install a grounded power cable just for the case/shielding or c) tie them to 0V?
3) Why do they put the rectifiers on the audio board? I understand that the caps need to be close to the transistors, but why not rectify the power and smooth it with one set of caps then send it over to the audio board and smooth the ripple with a second set of caps, thereby removing the AC current from the audio side? Two smaller caps are the same price or less than one cap of the same size anyway. I would have removed the bridges from the board already if the hum was coming from both speakers.
Thanks in advance and also thanks for all your inspiration!
Need some advice for my car audio project
Hello,
I own an honda civic VIII from 2007 (EU model), and i have the project to increase the sound system for years. I know basically nothing about car radio, and i don't care of what's on the radio, i want a good quality audio system for good music 🙂
I bought some good speakers and amp (xrk971's TPA3255) some times ago, but never took the time to finish the project. Basically i have the speakers / psu / amp, and i was thinking of a dac - player.
Thing is, i am also working on a project i called "Mini-Soekris". It's a portable music player that i feed with a 5v psu, with this stuff :
Soeris dam1141, nanopi neo3, silent switcher psu, amb α24 as buffer / SE to Bal converter, and a opa1656 headphone amp. All that in a tiny Takashi MXB4-7-11 (yes it will fit, but there won't me much space left believe me
)
The music and linux system will be on sd card, i will use a very simple linux with basically only mpd. I will configure a dummy alsa mixer to communicate with the soekris, so i should use the dam hardware mixer. There is a very practical api for soekris somewhere in the internet.
The goal is to connect to the NEO3 in wifi and pilot all that with a mpd client, and eventually some termux command to change a few parameters of the dac if i need, like the filters.
As i am building this mini-soekris, it looks like the perfect player for my car system. It will have a balanced and buffered output (with mini-xlr), so i will directly connect it to the TPA3255 amp. Also there is a small storage just under the car radio where it would fit nicely, and i have direct access to the amp.
The only missing thing is that it is a little dangerous to use my cell phone to command all that when i am driving. It would be practical if i could use the steering wheel of my honda for basic command (pause, vol +- and track +-).
Thing is, with my honda, there is a lcd screen on the dashboard, for climate control and date etc. The car radio command all this, so if you remove the original car radio you loose the climate control and time. You need to use a small box, in my case the Connects2 CTSHO002, to interface to some aftermarket car radio. I saw on the the CTSHO002 schematic that there is two output cable, speed pulse and amp remote.
This amp remote is surely the steering wheel. Thing is, i don't know anything about how it is working. I really hoped somewhere here would have some information, if there is some standard involve. If it's digital, and it's surely is, i guess my only chance is some kind of micro-controller to interface it with the gpio of my NEO3.
The other solution would be to add these basic command directly to the mini-soekris front panel. I am not sure at all if there is the space for it, even if i use some very low profile encoder or buttons.
Regards
I own an honda civic VIII from 2007 (EU model), and i have the project to increase the sound system for years. I know basically nothing about car radio, and i don't care of what's on the radio, i want a good quality audio system for good music 🙂
I bought some good speakers and amp (xrk971's TPA3255) some times ago, but never took the time to finish the project. Basically i have the speakers / psu / amp, and i was thinking of a dac - player.
Thing is, i am also working on a project i called "Mini-Soekris". It's a portable music player that i feed with a 5v psu, with this stuff :
Soeris dam1141, nanopi neo3, silent switcher psu, amb α24 as buffer / SE to Bal converter, and a opa1656 headphone amp. All that in a tiny Takashi MXB4-7-11 (yes it will fit, but there won't me much space left believe me
)The music and linux system will be on sd card, i will use a very simple linux with basically only mpd. I will configure a dummy alsa mixer to communicate with the soekris, so i should use the dam hardware mixer. There is a very practical api for soekris somewhere in the internet.
The goal is to connect to the NEO3 in wifi and pilot all that with a mpd client, and eventually some termux command to change a few parameters of the dac if i need, like the filters.
As i am building this mini-soekris, it looks like the perfect player for my car system. It will have a balanced and buffered output (with mini-xlr), so i will directly connect it to the TPA3255 amp. Also there is a small storage just under the car radio where it would fit nicely, and i have direct access to the amp.
The only missing thing is that it is a little dangerous to use my cell phone to command all that when i am driving. It would be practical if i could use the steering wheel of my honda for basic command (pause, vol +- and track +-).
Thing is, with my honda, there is a lcd screen on the dashboard, for climate control and date etc. The car radio command all this, so if you remove the original car radio you loose the climate control and time. You need to use a small box, in my case the Connects2 CTSHO002, to interface to some aftermarket car radio. I saw on the the CTSHO002 schematic that there is two output cable, speed pulse and amp remote.
This amp remote is surely the steering wheel. Thing is, i don't know anything about how it is working. I really hoped somewhere here would have some information, if there is some standard involve. If it's digital, and it's surely is, i guess my only chance is some kind of micro-controller to interface it with the gpio of my NEO3.
The other solution would be to add these basic command directly to the mini-soekris front panel. I am not sure at all if there is the space for it, even if i use some very low profile encoder or buttons.
Regards
