Pcb layout doubt
- By madhukannan
- Solid State
- 7 Replies
While making a PCB layout should we keep signal, Zobel, and decoupling caps grounds completely isolated? and run separate wires to the power supply ground T ? or is it required to have a connection between them in the PCB?
To which ground the constant current source ground can be combined?
To which ground the constant current source ground can be combined?
6П15П-ЕВ / 6P15P-EV = EL803S / SV83 NOS, NIB (lot of 100pcs)
- By OAA7
- Vendor's Bazaar
- 6 Replies
FS: 6П15П-ЕВ / 6P15P-EV = EL803S / SV83 NOS, NIB (lot of 100pcs)
Hi,
I have in stock excellent special quality electron tubes 6П15П-ЕВ / 6P15P-EV
= EL803S / EL83 / SV83
Index -EB means:
B = tubes of increased mechanical strength and reliability
E = tubes of increased durability (5000 hours or more)
Saratov factory "Reflector"
all the same date codes = Dec. 1976
minimum order = 100 pcs (one box)
price = $200 (i.e. $2 for 1piece)
shipping cost (2500 g)= $30 by airmail
Best regards!
-------------------
Olexandr
Kharkiv, UKRAINE
skype: OAA-1974
Hi,
I have in stock excellent special quality electron tubes 6П15П-ЕВ / 6P15P-EV
= EL803S / EL83 / SV83
Index -EB means:
B = tubes of increased mechanical strength and reliability
E = tubes of increased durability (5000 hours or more)
Saratov factory "Reflector"
all the same date codes = Dec. 1976
minimum order = 100 pcs (one box)
price = $200 (i.e. $2 for 1piece)
shipping cost (2500 g)= $30 by airmail
Best regards!
-------------------
Olexandr
Kharkiv, UKRAINE
skype: OAA-1974
Lowest safe loadline: what is the limit?
- By zintolo
- Tubes / Valves
- 135 Replies
I'm designing a amp to see the limits of a new feedback system, and I would like to know what is the limit you consider on the lowest side for the loadline.
Please consider that the DF has not to be considered here.
The amp is a PP based on a pair of EL34 at 450V B+.
Initial OPT was 6k6 with UL 23%, now I would like to test a 4k with UL 23% I have, but I would avoid to blow a pair of EL34.
The point is that the loadline is on the edge of 2x the max plate dissipation on some points (as highlighted on the image) and this considering a load of 8 Ohm, so it's even worst at mid frequencies where load is usually lower.
What is the limit you consider when you design an amp?
Is that loadline the lowest you'd use, not considering the DF in the equation?
Thank you in advance,
Roberto
Please consider that the DF has not to be considered here.
The amp is a PP based on a pair of EL34 at 450V B+.
Initial OPT was 6k6 with UL 23%, now I would like to test a 4k with UL 23% I have, but I would avoid to blow a pair of EL34.
The point is that the loadline is on the edge of 2x the max plate dissipation on some points (as highlighted on the image) and this considering a load of 8 Ohm, so it's even worst at mid frequencies where load is usually lower.
What is the limit you consider when you design an amp?
Is that loadline the lowest you'd use, not considering the DF in the equation?
Thank you in advance,
Roberto
Attachments
Microphone Isolation Panel instead of Rear Absorbtion Pads
- By Bradstone
- Room Acoustics & Mods
- 0 Replies
Attachments
Harmony H205/Silvertone 1342 OT
- By eetechTom
- Instruments and Amps
- 17 Replies
Starting my first classic amp restoration and have an output transformer question.The Harmony H205 amp I bought, had the OT replaced with a 16 ohm output sub. It’s a 6V6 pp circuit, rated at 12W I believe?. Haven’t gotten to the point of powering it up yet, but will obviously need a better OT. That orange cap needs to go too
This amp has the original Rola 12”, 3.2 ohm speaker. Any suggestions on a quality OT would be greatly appreciated. Want to do justice to this classic.
This amp has the original Rola 12”, 3.2 ohm speaker. Any suggestions on a quality OT would be greatly appreciated. Want to do justice to this classic.
Attachments
Guesstimating transformer power ratings
- By Kay Pirinha
- Power Supplies
- 12 Replies
Hi,
in the past two years I've harvested a bunch of power transformers from some cheesiy sounding and crappy Hammond transistor organs. Sadly, I didn't have a close look at their badges and the power consumption that might have been written there, but anyway, all these organs featured Leslie or Rotosonic units whose motors are of unknown power consumption as well.
The 1st pic shows a pair of identical trannies, Hammond part # 003-054471, coming from a Collonnade and a - smaller - Aurora Classic. Their lamination stacks measure 105 x 87 x 55 mm (4 1/8 x 3½ x 2 1/4 "):
Next one is the tranny of a notably bigger Concorde. Part # 003-046819. Lamination outline is the same, but stack height is a bit lower: 105 x 87 x 50 mm (4 1/8 x 3½ x 2 "):
Next one came form a Model 8022 organ. Part # 003-048011. Laminations measure 95 x 80 x 50 mm (3 3/4 x 3 1/8 x 2 "):
The next pair also was in the Colonnade and Aurora organs. Their primaries are 115 Vac, secondary is 14 Vac. Perhaps they might serve in a BTL pair (2 x 2) of amplifiers. Part # 003-054853, laminations are 76 x 63 x 41 mm (3 x 2 1/2 x 1 5/8 "):
The smallest one. Part # 003-046374, laminations are 66 x 56 x 26 mm (2 5/8 x 2 3/16 x 1 "):
Finally a 117 Vac power tranny that came from a Leslie 121 multi channel amplifier. It powered four almost identical amplifiers, consisting of a 12AU7 and a pair of fix biased 7189's each. This is the one I was referring to in my proper winding technique thread. I'm planning to rewind it as an OT of about 40 W power. Laminations are 114 x 95 x 33 mm (4½ x 3 3/4 x 1 1/4 "):
Which power capabilities can I expect from these transformers?
Best regards!
in the past two years I've harvested a bunch of power transformers from some cheesiy sounding and crappy Hammond transistor organs. Sadly, I didn't have a close look at their badges and the power consumption that might have been written there, but anyway, all these organs featured Leslie or Rotosonic units whose motors are of unknown power consumption as well.
The 1st pic shows a pair of identical trannies, Hammond part # 003-054471, coming from a Collonnade and a - smaller - Aurora Classic. Their lamination stacks measure 105 x 87 x 55 mm (4 1/8 x 3½ x 2 1/4 "):
Next one is the tranny of a notably bigger Concorde. Part # 003-046819. Lamination outline is the same, but stack height is a bit lower: 105 x 87 x 50 mm (4 1/8 x 3½ x 2 "):
Next one came form a Model 8022 organ. Part # 003-048011. Laminations measure 95 x 80 x 50 mm (3 3/4 x 3 1/8 x 2 "):
The next pair also was in the Colonnade and Aurora organs. Their primaries are 115 Vac, secondary is 14 Vac. Perhaps they might serve in a BTL pair (2 x 2) of amplifiers. Part # 003-054853, laminations are 76 x 63 x 41 mm (3 x 2 1/2 x 1 5/8 "):
The smallest one. Part # 003-046374, laminations are 66 x 56 x 26 mm (2 5/8 x 2 3/16 x 1 "):
Finally a 117 Vac power tranny that came from a Leslie 121 multi channel amplifier. It powered four almost identical amplifiers, consisting of a 12AU7 and a pair of fix biased 7189's each. This is the one I was referring to in my proper winding technique thread. I'm planning to rewind it as an OT of about 40 W power. Laminations are 114 x 95 x 33 mm (4½ x 3 3/4 x 1 1/4 "):
Which power capabilities can I expect from these transformers?
Best regards!
Goldentone single valve guitar amp troubleshoot
- By Yellow Cab
- Instruments and Amps
- 40 Replies
Attachments
-
Locked
High End pseudoscience. Electronics and enclosure marketing vs speaker efficiency
- By afk
- Everything Else
- 34 Replies
High end, High fidelity or Audiophile terms are just product of misinformation wars, that were created in the WW2 to manipulate reality and build national sentiment and morale to recruit soldiers and win wars, and this has expanded from politics to create an eternal voting ping-pong and to advertising creating an eternal consumer toddler. An the audio consumer segment is probably one of the most filled with pseudoscience and misleading, without showing real data of the products.
We watch attractive adverts with speaker cabinets and electronics with good picture presentation and supposed great technology, we want to own them like retards, me included today as I can fall for it so easily.
So let's talk about real facts about sound science and the most critical factor in sound transmission is efficiency and this is a problem with speakers because no matter how good the audio format, bitrate, bit depth, DAC, amplifier, speaker cone, enclosure is, we burn 99% of the sound and the speaker transforms only 1% from energy to sound, lets say with a 8ohm speaker at 92db sensibility, and this is what matters most.
So with a 3db increase at 95db we have a 2% efficient speaker and if we increase the sensibility to 131db that speaker is 13% and we can play the sound low and hear most of the sound details with an mp3, flac, DVD-A or DTS-MA.
The ways to accomplish speaker efficiency is with speaker sensibility and area, Xmax, horns and enclosure type and volume while electronic efficiency is made with gain structure and also by removing passive crossovers and using class D,T, etc amps with 90-100% efficiency. However the most noticeable methods for speaker db increase are horns and gain structure.
In my case i use gain structure with Foobar at minimum while windows preamp and amp at maximum, reducing amp volume and raising foobar to reduce noise at low volume, however i can use any small speaker very loud without cone excursion or play loud a big subwoofer with a 25w class-D amp board
By reducing the source volume I am supposed to eat bit rate and bit depth, but the music gains richness so when i use a common setup with amp+speaker with amp at low volume it sounds poor whatever the "quality" of the components.
The main drawback of this gain structure is that i can blow the speaker if i raise the foobar volume or windows play any sound suddenly. There's a notable difference by using DVD-A instead flac in Foobar and i can raise the volume and the richness of the sound and low distortion its quite noticeable, the same with dts-ma.
We watch attractive adverts with speaker cabinets and electronics with good picture presentation and supposed great technology, we want to own them like retards, me included today as I can fall for it so easily.
So let's talk about real facts about sound science and the most critical factor in sound transmission is efficiency and this is a problem with speakers because no matter how good the audio format, bitrate, bit depth, DAC, amplifier, speaker cone, enclosure is, we burn 99% of the sound and the speaker transforms only 1% from energy to sound, lets say with a 8ohm speaker at 92db sensibility, and this is what matters most.
So with a 3db increase at 95db we have a 2% efficient speaker and if we increase the sensibility to 131db that speaker is 13% and we can play the sound low and hear most of the sound details with an mp3, flac, DVD-A or DTS-MA.
The ways to accomplish speaker efficiency is with speaker sensibility and area, Xmax, horns and enclosure type and volume while electronic efficiency is made with gain structure and also by removing passive crossovers and using class D,T, etc amps with 90-100% efficiency. However the most noticeable methods for speaker db increase are horns and gain structure.
In my case i use gain structure with Foobar at minimum while windows preamp and amp at maximum, reducing amp volume and raising foobar to reduce noise at low volume, however i can use any small speaker very loud without cone excursion or play loud a big subwoofer with a 25w class-D amp board
By reducing the source volume I am supposed to eat bit rate and bit depth, but the music gains richness so when i use a common setup with amp+speaker with amp at low volume it sounds poor whatever the "quality" of the components.
The main drawback of this gain structure is that i can blow the speaker if i raise the foobar volume or windows play any sound suddenly. There's a notable difference by using DVD-A instead flac in Foobar and i can raise the volume and the richness of the sound and low distortion its quite noticeable, the same with dts-ma.
Simple DIYable Waveguide testing (dome tweeters)
Hi All,
I have been doing some testing with shallow waveguides for my BaSSlines project that I thought you all might be interested in. I posted this in my BaSSlines thread, but realized many of you who might be interested could miss it there. I created an insert into the baffle that would allow me to make multiple WG's and insert them into the same baffle (see photo below), with same tweeter, same mic setup, position, etc. The tweeter is the Peerless HDS with the face plate removed. The tweeter is mounted by pressing it to the back of he WG cutout, held by a woof fixture. The measurements were all taken at 1 meter, with the mic 80" high, in the center of a room with vaulted ceilings probably 15' high at that point and with a 4ms gated window.
All the WG's were created from mdf by boring a hole with a forstner bit, then rounding over the appropraite amount and then routing from the back for the palnned depth of either 1/2" deep or 3/4" deep in these cases. These are something just about any DIYer can build petty easily, which was the idea. There are a few tricks to doing this, most notably, when using a 3/4" rounvoer bit, you have to have a backer piece to you mdf baffle that you also bore a hole through. This backer piece is needed for the bearing of the deeper 3/4" roundover bit to ride on. All the bore through holes on these were adjusted so the final throat sizes are about 1-1/4" +- 1/32" at the final size.
Most of the plots show the waveguide perfomance at 0-15-30-45 and 60º of axis horizontally, so you can see the effect on axis and the directivity off axis. The first plot is the HDS with a standard flush mount. My goal with the waveguide is to get some boost at the low end so that when qualized out in the crossover you get the possible benefits of lowered distortion, slighly higher sensitivity, better off axis directivity and a counter to the typical rising responce of the HDS tweeter on axis, which might be fatiguing to some over time. Also included are some comparisons of the favorite WG results on axis with each other.
I'll include some photos of the waveguide testing insert setup in this post and in the next one I'll post the results.
I have been doing some testing with shallow waveguides for my BaSSlines project that I thought you all might be interested in. I posted this in my BaSSlines thread, but realized many of you who might be interested could miss it there. I created an insert into the baffle that would allow me to make multiple WG's and insert them into the same baffle (see photo below), with same tweeter, same mic setup, position, etc. The tweeter is the Peerless HDS with the face plate removed. The tweeter is mounted by pressing it to the back of he WG cutout, held by a woof fixture. The measurements were all taken at 1 meter, with the mic 80" high, in the center of a room with vaulted ceilings probably 15' high at that point and with a 4ms gated window.
All the WG's were created from mdf by boring a hole with a forstner bit, then rounding over the appropraite amount and then routing from the back for the palnned depth of either 1/2" deep or 3/4" deep in these cases. These are something just about any DIYer can build petty easily, which was the idea. There are a few tricks to doing this, most notably, when using a 3/4" rounvoer bit, you have to have a backer piece to you mdf baffle that you also bore a hole through. This backer piece is needed for the bearing of the deeper 3/4" roundover bit to ride on. All the bore through holes on these were adjusted so the final throat sizes are about 1-1/4" +- 1/32" at the final size.
Most of the plots show the waveguide perfomance at 0-15-30-45 and 60º of axis horizontally, so you can see the effect on axis and the directivity off axis. The first plot is the HDS with a standard flush mount. My goal with the waveguide is to get some boost at the low end so that when qualized out in the crossover you get the possible benefits of lowered distortion, slighly higher sensitivity, better off axis directivity and a counter to the typical rising responce of the HDS tweeter on axis, which might be fatiguing to some over time. Also included are some comparisons of the favorite WG results on axis with each other.
I'll include some photos of the waveguide testing insert setup in this post and in the next one I'll post the results.
Cheap eBay subwoofer amps
- By drumcircle
- Subwoofers
- 1 Replies
There are some cheap, cheap $40 car subwoofer amps suggesting around 1,000w or more. I bought one (PA-80D) to pair with a decades old but very capable DELL 1,100w PSU from a server -- something you can find for $20 from one of many server liquidators. I received the amp and found 8 switching devices, emailed the seller, and was told that it uses the Toshiba 5198 1941 chipset and does around 300w RMS. It seems like a well-built unit and for $60 all-in, decent value for 300w RMS. I'm still looking for a budget 1-2kw solution...
Attachments
Interesting "archeological" find
- By Elvee
- Solid State
- 18 Replies
I am in the process of sorting out my "hardware archives".
In doing so, I stumbled upon a very unimpressive prototype, dating back from the pre-2000, pre-sim years:
One shouldn't judge it based on its shaggy looks though: I tested it, and it performs surprising well.
Like most of my amplifiers, it has some kind of auto-bias circuit.
Very often, the auto-bias introduces unwanted artifacts, especially in the crossover region.
To evaluate the quality, I tested it under low voltage amplitude, high current, high frequency conditions with a 50kHz triangle wave and a 2 ohm load:
The result is pretty immaculate!
The quiescent current for the total amplifier is ~200mA.
The circuit is stable, clean and tolerant and could serve as a starting base for a real amplifier.
Even better, I managed to reconcile the physical circuit with my paper archives (an outstanding feat!):
The circuit is not ultra-simple, but it isn't ultra complicated either.
In doing so, I stumbled upon a very unimpressive prototype, dating back from the pre-2000, pre-sim years:
One shouldn't judge it based on its shaggy looks though: I tested it, and it performs surprising well.
Like most of my amplifiers, it has some kind of auto-bias circuit.
Very often, the auto-bias introduces unwanted artifacts, especially in the crossover region.
To evaluate the quality, I tested it under low voltage amplitude, high current, high frequency conditions with a 50kHz triangle wave and a 2 ohm load:
The result is pretty immaculate!
The quiescent current for the total amplifier is ~200mA.
The circuit is stable, clean and tolerant and could serve as a starting base for a real amplifier.
Even better, I managed to reconcile the physical circuit with my paper archives (an outstanding feat!):
The circuit is not ultra-simple, but it isn't ultra complicated either.
Replace Tascam 122MK2 deck's VFD by LED
- By eaglebear
- Analogue Source
- 1 Replies
My display unit is already aging but the CPU is OK,so I decided to replace it with LED.The segments of this VFD are drived in DC -12V to +12V,I use some transistor to amplify current and convert Polarity for 4 byte Common cathode LED module，here are some pics.
SCH and PCB
The final DIY
SCH and PCB
The final DIY
Power supply theory?
- By stagekraft
- Power Supplies
- 14 Replies
Hey All,
Put on your "Double E" thinking cap and give me your opinion on this.
Now I was weened on audio electronics in the late 70's, and for the past 40 years or so I've designed, built and repaired a lot of stuff, but I just ran upon something that baffles me.
A guy brought me a powered sub-woofer to fix, and there's something about the power supply that I don't get.
Look at this schematic, the transformer has two secondary's, the top one is a single ended higher voltage that feeds the power amp, (which is also a strange design).
But look at the bottom secondary, a lower voltage "center tapped" winding that feeds two typical bipolar zener supplies off the same bridge rectifier, each one supplies a few opamps (I guess the designer thought it was more cost effective to double the parts count rather than using bigger parts, like a 1N4744 which has twice the current of the 1N5245, and 1/4W 330 ohm resisters instead if 1/8W).
But look at the center tap, it is fused to the chassis ground (what?).....
So if some over-current event happens and blows the fuse,
IF all the components are still good, but the supply's no longer reference to the center tap,
THEN in theory, does this become a "dual voltage" supply instead of "bipolar"?
That is, does the negative rail become 0V, and the chassis ground become +15V, and the positive rail become +30V?
OR IF a zener on the negative rail is shorted, THEN the negative rail become 0V, the chassis ground becomes 0V (due to the shorted zener), and the positive rail becomes +15V?
OR IF a zener on the positive rail is shorted, THEN the negative rail becomes 0V, the chassis ground becomes +15V, and the positive rail is also +15V (due to the shorted zener)?
Am I missing some obvious "good design practice" here, or does this look as goofy to ya'll as it does to me?
JohnR
Put on your "Double E" thinking cap and give me your opinion on this.
Now I was weened on audio electronics in the late 70's, and for the past 40 years or so I've designed, built and repaired a lot of stuff, but I just ran upon something that baffles me.
A guy brought me a powered sub-woofer to fix, and there's something about the power supply that I don't get.
Look at this schematic, the transformer has two secondary's, the top one is a single ended higher voltage that feeds the power amp, (which is also a strange design).
But look at the bottom secondary, a lower voltage "center tapped" winding that feeds two typical bipolar zener supplies off the same bridge rectifier, each one supplies a few opamps (I guess the designer thought it was more cost effective to double the parts count rather than using bigger parts, like a 1N4744 which has twice the current of the 1N5245, and 1/4W 330 ohm resisters instead if 1/8W).
But look at the center tap, it is fused to the chassis ground (what?).....
So if some over-current event happens and blows the fuse,
IF all the components are still good, but the supply's no longer reference to the center tap,
THEN in theory, does this become a "dual voltage" supply instead of "bipolar"?
That is, does the negative rail become 0V, and the chassis ground become +15V, and the positive rail become +30V?
OR IF a zener on the negative rail is shorted, THEN the negative rail become 0V, the chassis ground becomes 0V (due to the shorted zener), and the positive rail becomes +15V?
OR IF a zener on the positive rail is shorted, THEN the negative rail becomes 0V, the chassis ground becomes +15V, and the positive rail is also +15V (due to the shorted zener)?
Am I missing some obvious "good design practice" here, or does this look as goofy to ya'll as it does to me?
JohnR
My best upgrade ever!
It's a fact that few of us can make cabinets to the cosmetic standards of the major manufacturers. And back in the day when Sony wanted to be 'high-end' they made some high-end speaker cabinets. But the designs of these cabinets made them very retro very quick.
Over the years I have tried many alternatives but the bookshelf speakers that come with the Sony SS-CPX1 are my preferred fronts, the deep cabinets and Kevlar drivers representing the sound I like. The problem is that in 2022 they so effing butt ugly that divorce lawyers salivate at the thought of me keeping them in house.
I bought a pair of Wharfedale Diamonds but they weren't 'it'.
The solution cost $3 and 2 hours.
Seriously I didn't think $2 of spray paint and dab of sugar soap would change my life. Trust me, at home, I now get lucky - a lot.
Over the years I have tried many alternatives but the bookshelf speakers that come with the Sony SS-CPX1 are my preferred fronts, the deep cabinets and Kevlar drivers representing the sound I like. The problem is that in 2022 they so effing butt ugly that divorce lawyers salivate at the thought of me keeping them in house.
I bought a pair of Wharfedale Diamonds but they weren't 'it'.
The solution cost $3 and 2 hours.
Seriously I didn't think $2 of spray paint and dab of sugar soap would change my life. Trust me, at home, I now get lucky - a lot.
Attachments
RTA Question using REW
In the spectrum, which indicates positive or negative phase for say, H2? Does the polarity of the harmonics change sign?
Thank you!
Thank you!
FH9VX pcbs
Available 6 (stereo) pcbs of the Prasi/XRK FH9VX amplifier board.
£3 each posted UK
£6 Europe and most of ROW
£3 each posted UK
£6 Europe and most of ROW
For Sale Transformers for tube projects, Hammond, Edcor
- By itsikhefez
- Swap Meet
- 1 Replies
Attachments
What kind of VAS is this
- Solid State
- 11 Replies
Greetings!
About a year ago a fellow here helped me to make this crapy amplifier, which works suprisingly well.
I dug up the schematic the other day and i keep on wondering what kind of VAS is this?
I do not understang this configuration, or how it functions so i will kindly ask if someone has some spare time,
to explain to me what the hell is this config. I read Bob Cordel s book but its not in there.
About a year ago a fellow here helped me to make this crapy amplifier, which works suprisingly well.
I dug up the schematic the other day and i keep on wondering what kind of VAS is this?
I do not understang this configuration, or how it functions so i will kindly ask if someone has some spare time,
to explain to me what the hell is this config. I read Bob Cordel s book but its not in there.
Help me decide on room treaments.
- By StabMe
- Room Acoustics & Mods
- 32 Replies
Hey guys!
So i finished making my K-402 MEH in wood and brought them in a large room.
There is only A TV desk, speakers, a sofa and that's it.
This is how the room currently look like:
The RT60 times a very huge:
Since this a huge horn with directivity control down to 100Hz, i figured i don't really need much of 'first reflection' treatments. What i need is to treat walls near the edges of the horn and somehow reduce the reverberation time of the room.
I will be placing QRD diffusers on the ceiling covering 3 meters between listening position. To cover half of the space i will need about 13 of them.
This will be made out of high density XPS, painted and look like this:
Will place a rug on the floor between the sofa and listening position.
And on the side walls near the sofa i am thinking of placing Leanfractal diffusers. 3 pieces on each side wall.
Leanfractals on the front and side walls will look like this:
Oh, and 5 diffusers on the back wall with some furniture:
Will it be enough to deal with excessive reverberation? Or do i need more absorption rather then diffusion?
So i finished making my K-402 MEH in wood and brought them in a large room.
There is only A TV desk, speakers, a sofa and that's it.
This is how the room currently look like:
The RT60 times a very huge:
Since this a huge horn with directivity control down to 100Hz, i figured i don't really need much of 'first reflection' treatments. What i need is to treat walls near the edges of the horn and somehow reduce the reverberation time of the room.
I will be placing QRD diffusers on the ceiling covering 3 meters between listening position. To cover half of the space i will need about 13 of them.
This will be made out of high density XPS, painted and look like this:
Will place a rug on the floor between the sofa and listening position.
And on the side walls near the sofa i am thinking of placing Leanfractal diffusers. 3 pieces on each side wall.
Leanfractals on the front and side walls will look like this:
Oh, and 5 diffusers on the back wall with some furniture:
Will it be enough to deal with excessive reverberation? Or do i need more absorption rather then diffusion?
Attachments
New Years fail
No fault of my own incompetence of amp building here. I have a huge amp. And it’s ******* New Year’s Eve!!!! It’s time for 7 year old disco party. I uncorked the amp (flat amp x3??? =louder) and bang, 1700 (time of day) dead big amp.
quick headlamp amp swamp to stand by class D (?) Akitika GT-102 and we’re back to New Years karaoke.
ya know how James Webb Space Telescope has a few “single point failures” well, my Pass F5T has about 16 single point failures, and one of them cooked. Heh heh
more stories from the trenches!!!
happy new year.
quick headlamp amp swamp to stand by class D (?) Akitika GT-102 and we’re back to New Years karaoke.
ya know how James Webb Space Telescope has a few “single point failures” well, my Pass F5T has about 16 single point failures, and one of them cooked. Heh heh
more stories from the trenches!!!
happy new year.
Sunvalley P1616D 18W per Channel
https://flic.kr/p/2mesNsZ 
https://flic.kr/p/2mesN5E vkmusicTUBE SET 1 : Mullard CV4024, Mullard CV4003 + WE300B
TUBE SET 2 : Mullard CV4024, MUllard CV4003 + COSSOR/LINLAI WE300B
18W X 2 ---> P1616D is powerful enough to drive a lot of speakers
For the Output Transfomer options, you can pick stock Japanses OPT or HASHIMOTO OPT...
Please stay tuned for coming project..
