For Sale Rohde & Schwarz UPL B4 B29 B22 B23 Audio Analyzer

Hello.

I have for sell well known audio analyzer Rohde & Schwarz UPL 1078.2008K06

It has installed options: B4 B29 B22 B23

Analyzer have some scratches on the case, but front panel is in very good condition. No feet, it was working in rack. no other accessories, only EU power cord.
Fan's in good conditions, they not very loud.

Price: SOLD + shipping
Shipping almost worldwide.

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MacAudio z4100 not working

Hi there!
I'm new here so I hope I'm posting this in the right place. I have a MacAudio Car audio amplifier z4100 which I'm trying to fix.

It seams I have high voltage coming from Protect signal to TL494 IC controller , turning the overload red led ON. There isn't audio at any of the outputs.

There are some set of transistors (C5198 & A1941 pairs) getting extremelly hot together with their 5W ceramic resistance. (mainly Channel 3 and 4)

I uploaded some Schematics thet I found of z4200 model which is quite similar. The marks in red were not done by me. So, it doesn't refer to my problem.

Any help will be appreciated!

Thanks!

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Can i build Phonostage with AD1 DHT like this?

I'm planning to make a Phonostage with a Triode tube with an existing Hashimoto Transformer. This schematic is just a draft, with a Tamura TKS22 input with an Indirect Heather triode REN904 ( 20 - 30Mu) - Hashimoto Hl 20k (OTL) and Hashimoto EQL ( RIAA) amplifier and an AD1 DHT as preamp.
Can it run well? any suggestion? Thank You.

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Current Drive for Headphones & The Super Linear Transconductance Amplifier

As probably the last circuit we shall build for headphone amplifiers, we want to find out how they sound under current drive.
This is not only known for loudspeakers, but also for headphones, especially for planar magnetics.

The circuit is an evolution from our earlier Pioneer Super Linear Headphone Amplifier.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/313163-pioneer-super-linear-circuit.html
Only now it has been modified to output current instead of voltage.
Many of the aspects of the SL Voltage such as device matching, etc. still applies.

You can read about the article here :
http://xen-audio.com/documents/cdha/Current Drive for Headphones Public 181006.pdf


Happy reading,
Patrick

.

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ADCOM GFA-5802 Thermal LED

Was listening to my amp and suddenly heard a hum and my left channel thermal LED is on and no sound from that channel. Right channel is functional. When powering off the system or unplug the AC connector, the LED goes off.
Already checked T40 (85-degree Thermal Breaker) and it is ok (compared left and right channel and they both are short in normal room temperature).
Any idea what else could cause the thermal LED to stay on (Thermal protection always activated)?

Sony TA-4650 Oscillating

Hi, I've been refreshing this amplifier over the past year in stages. First the PS then on to the amplifier board. I replace all the the electrolytic caps first and it was so far so good. Listened to it for a few months then decided replace the non-electrolytic caps. The outputs transistors are good but the amp is now oscillating. Being somewhat frustrated now I decided to bring into an audio service center in Chicago that is an authorized repair some very high-end gear and is very familiar with V-fets. Anyway, they believe the problem is with the ceramic caps that I replaced with poly-caps in the feedback circuit that is causing the oscillation. Everything else checked out fine on the amp. So my question is it possible the the makeup of the cap is critical here? Ceramic vs Poly? I don't post much here but I would appreciate some feedback on my situation. Thanks!

CCS and voltage references

I've being working with constant current sources in designing a voltage reference for valve based power supplies, and I started out using a single MOSFET(DN2540- TO-92). Im only using TO-92 packages to save board space, because this will be a plug in module for the power supply.

Below I have an example of what I have arrived at. the VR stablizer is also variable. I would welcome any opinions from those that have worked with current sources. All active BJTs are MPAS42 divices. With this CCS Im able to deliver 2X the amount of current to the zener and temp comp diode.

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Quadral Aurum 9 sad story short

Hallo to audio lovers. Past few days i decided to sell my 30years old Infinityes as im tired of watching them and buy something old/new for me.So Aurums by Quadrals caugth my eye so i went for it. The have beautyful design and good choice of speakers inside wich are 2x8"woofers, 2x5" midds and on top RIBBON TWEETER..mmm nice. Wood finish is exelent !! So i buy them and brought them home..After few minutes i notice that is not much clearance in sound and everything is muddy sounding!? W*F.. i just buy.. Im schoked. Soo after good nite rest i started testing and speakers are all ok. Woofers and bass port are in faze, midds are allso good placed and tweeters 100% okay, so only thing i could think of was FILTERS !! So i open the speakers to find out "##€"#€##"€€€."!"";+€-*:#;€.. What in gods name was Quadral thinking?? See picture as i cant talk now.. I must stop..Sorry

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Sub for Electrostats

I am currently using the Gradient SW63 with the Quad ESL. The woofers are tired and the XO unit is getting noisy. I began looking at re-driver'ing the Gradient but then started considering other possibilities. Surely in the past 30 years there are better approaches that I can put four new drivers into.

The Gradient kept up well with the Quad. I have another set of subs, the Dayton RSS315, which put out plenty, but just don't sync with the speed of the Quad. And they start to drop fast after 40Hz.

I like the concept of the dipole and have been looking at a number of H, W, Z, V etc. configurations. The Linkwitz design for his LX521 seems to have some interesting advantages but I'd really prefer to avoid the active equalization.

In the end, I'm open to whatever the best solution is- I'm not married to any particular approach.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions and guidance.

Three way horn system

Three way horn system (4 way at the moment)

Hello all. After some time of lurking, this is my first post. Recently I have heard my friends horn system. As mid-bass he uses w-bin folded horns with one 12" Isophon driver, roughly 100x100x80 cm in size, then something like "smith" radial horn with a Coral 1" driver and Coral tweeters at the top, all with active crossovers. Except for PA, my first experience with horns.

What I noticed, the bass guitar, snare, kick, voices - all almost like alive during a rehearsal (I am musician too). I could even feel the bass, although it could not be very low. The music was playing loud, but it did not feel lound until i tried to speak. Awesome. I have a few questions.

What would be the bass-mid crossover frequency for such a system?
I hope I could use compression drivers and horns from around 1kHz, but I am afraid bass horns just won't fit into my room. What bass system would you recommend? I do not need very low frequencies, I would like to have this tight sounding bass. As far as drivers concerns, I am more or less limited to Monacor, Eminence, B&C, Selenium, Beyma or RCF.

Update after 11 years🙂 (BTW, the horn system described above was identified meanwhile as the Danish Jealvox clone)

The current setup (October 17th, 2019) is (per side):
40 Hz bass horn with 15" speaker - Cerwin Vega inspired design - up to 120 Hz (one more per side is waiting to be installed)
JBL4560-like front horn with 15" Black Widow speaker - up to 600 Hz (to be replaced with John Inlow 135 Hz midbass horn in a few months)
JBL2445 + JBL2380A clone - up to 4.5 k, passive XO to HF (gorgeous Yuichi 290 horns are in production)
Beyma CP385Nd on 2380A with a custom 3D printed adapter (will be installed soon - the prototype needs some little adjustments)

The HF + MF will most probably be one day with a single 1.4" driver (maybe BMS4554) either on the Yuichi or another large horn.

Each side is using 3 channels of amplification (SE EL34 for the MF+HF) and one t.racks DSPmini for crossover, delays and EQ.

Help With Tube/Mosfet Amplifier.

Can someone Help me with this, I use EasyEda to build this. But it does not work, and I don't know why can someone tell me where is my mistake?

I can't bias the amp. The bias point jump from 0.4V to 8-12V and the Tube Become a more like a light bulb, There is no sound, The antipop relay delay circuit that is there is for DC protection, it works fine, it is switching as it should.


12AU7-IRF510-Headphone-Amp-Schematic.png


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I've been shopping NOS Peerless drivers

I'm a sucker for a bargain
These are both NOS and selling on eBay locally
The KA20 DMR and an interesting oval mid-range driver with a separate sealed can back.
Has anybody here done any work with the 50mm dome mid?
Running the test on the unit is seems to measure similarly to the old model Jaycar/Dayton dome.
I didn't expect much for my $10- so I am not really disappointed in the oval driver. Party box mids if I double up for power handling. Sealed box Fb is 300 and not much different to the domes really Louder tho and evident breakup although I was driving them full range

Subwoofer Enclosure

I’m going a different route on my sub woofer enclosure and building a new one .

I know they say use wood glue and clamps and there is no need for screws .

Personally I feel better using screws along with wood glue or staples brad nails . Since there is gonna be high pressure levels inside the vehicle.

Wondering will brad nails or staples works just as good as screws would ?

What’s everyone’s thoughts on this since this box is going into a SPL vehicle.

Hantek 6022BE Digital Oscilloscope

Hello all, I went into my local electronics shop to look for a scope for working with audio analog circuits

I was recommended this with the advice that this unit can do frequency response
https://www.jaycar.com.au/20mhz-usb-oscilloscope/p/QC1929
https://www.jaycar.com.au/medias/sys_master/images/images/9704167899166/QC1929-manualMain.pdf

Then I came across this
http://hantek.com/products/detail/31

Are they the same unit?
Can I use the Hantek 6022BE for analog audio circuits?

Also
What are the crowd favourites when it comes to speaker parameters? Can unknown speakers be worked on to generate the parameters somehow? What's needed for measuring built speaker response and such?

Is there one device that I can use for both circuits and speakers?

Thanks and regards
Randy

For Sale Clone Note LDR volume control

Hello,
I've converted all my system to digital, so I've for sale a Clone Note volume control from the original kit in perfect working order. All the RCA connecotors are Neutrik
150 euro + shipping and Paypal fees.
Shipping from Italy.
Best regards
Guglielmo

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Replacing Driver/output transitor combo with single darlington?

I have laying some nice schematics where power section is triple darlington style output stage (which is formed using 2SC3221>2SC4883>2SC2922 , but I have a bunch of 2SD2561 Sankens with I like to use for the last two stages. picture explains it all.

apart ability to acess inner base to add 10ohm (together with no ability to disconect that internal 70ohm resistor) what are drawbacks of this circuits? any bias issues and sonic penalties?
thanks a million

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Could solar-powered headphones be the next must-have?

https://www.bbc.com/news/business-63211086
Could solar-powered headphones be the next must-have?
By Nick Dauk and Will Smale
If you are the type of person who is forever forgetting to charge your wireless headphones, help may finally be on hand.
It comes as the first commercially available solar-powered headphones are now on sale. The models, by Swedish firm Urbanista and German sports giant Adidas, both have solar panels built into their headbands.
In each case the flexible panels are made by another Swedish company, Exeger, which has spent the past decade working to make them light, thin and powerful enough to do the job.
  • Like
Reactions: dreamth

Floating Tangential Tonearm

Hi! Greetings to all from a new member.

Some links related to my DIY turntable - TTT - utilizing a floating tangential tonearm after the idea/license of Nikolay Ivanov.

The TTT Vernissage clip:
YouTube

The first TTT development report:
YouTube

The "TTT Vernissage" series, all recordings made with TTT:
YouTube

I will be very glad to discuss with you on any issue related to my construction.

Tripath TA0103A repair attempt

Hello guys

I have had over 5 amps lately for a repair based on the Tripath TA0103A chip, Impulse SD-1200, Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1, Phase Linear Opus 1, US Amps and etc.

Same board same stuff, pictures in the link:
https://amp-performance.de/en/1222-Phase-Linear-Opus-1.html

All of them with a defective output section, some had output mosfets blow up, others only the chip was defective.
I've tried to order TA0103A from 2 different sources from China the chip, but sadly no avail, they were either fakes or blown up

Decided to open up one of the chip....i've found a few blown up transistors. Will try to read the markings and replace them. I know if the ics, big black blobs, are gone it's game over.
But as I have 5 of them just laying around with no other options, i don't have much to loose.

The only issue is that i don't know the values of the capacitors... I highly doubt there is a schematic for the Tripath TA0103A. I've read all of the threads over here about Tripath TA0103A.

Has anyone ever tried to repair one of those ? Any advice ?

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Up Squared I2S Audio

Hi! This is Jose Miguel.
I want to build my new hqplayer naa endpoint v3 based on Up Squared (Pentium N4200 - UP Squared specifications – UP Bridge the Gap). It is a very interesting device not only because its small size and quite powerful features, but also because of its I2S audio output directly from SoC (Apollo Lake) via de 40-pin GPIO, similar to RPI.
My idea is to take this I2S output into a top quality I2S reclocker (Andrea Mori, etc.) using the best clocks available (new Driscolls Andrea Mori as well) and then route the output to my DAC. This setup would make the USB conversion unnecessary. The ugly side is that everything above is still at development and support is not the best.
Currently it should be possible to connect via I2S the Hifiberry DAC+ Std. to UP2 adding the SOF driver support to PCM512x ( Set up SOF on Up Squared board with Hifiberry DAC+ (STD) — SOF Project 0.1 documentation ).
If this works, it would be possible to connect to the I2S pins at the hiffiberry to any othe I2S input device (the reclocker in my case). I assume that some audio device should appear in the ALSA aplay -l (Ubuntu 18.04.5).
In the same SOF project there is also support for WM8804 (same link above) so some digital interface (Hifiberry DIGI+, Twisted Pear,Audio??) based on this Wolfson IC should be compatible.
It would be great to know what do you guys think about this setup, and get some feeback in case someone has already tested.

Integrated power amplifier build

I'm building an integrated power amplifier. This will be based on the Trimodal power amplifier and the Precision pre-amplifier by Douglas Self. I really liked the books Douglas wrote and I decided to build this integrated amplifier. It will use to power amplifier modules based on the trimodal amplifier with four output transistors (2xNPN + 2xPNP), the updated Precision pre-amplifier with 5K linear pots and LM4562 or LME49720 opamps. I will also build the phono pre-amp with teh same opamps. The power supply will be a combination of unregulated (for the power modules) and regulated with LM317/337 for the pre-amp. So far I managed to solder the power amplifiers and I performed some measurements in class A and class B (D. Self class B 🙂 ). The results can be seen in the images below. The THD at 1kHz and 8OHM load looks very good. This is close to the limit of the Quant Asylum QA401 analyzer. Due to the size of teh heatsinks, the power amplifier will have a quiscent current of 1A. The original design by D. Self has a quiescent current of 1.6A. With 1A it can deliver around 12.5W in 8OHM. This is quite enough for my needs. In class B the quiescent current is around 50mA and the THD is also very good in my opinion. It does have a significant 2nd order distortion that I will have to look into. But for now this will have to do. I'm focusing on the other boards. I will add updates regarding the build as I go.

Power_AMP_Class_A_1A_bias_8OHM.png


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Newby question: What's this capacitor for on a DC mA meter?

I picked up some nice analog Simpson mA panel meters from a swap meet so I can direct-wire them into breadboarding circuits without using a sense resistor and get the immediate response of an analog meter. Some of these meters had a .01 uF capacitor across the pins as seen in the photo. Now it's my understanding that the ideal voltmeter has infinite impedance and hooked up in parallel. And that the ideal ammeter has zero impedance and is hooked up in series. If an analog DC ammeter is to be hooked up in series why would someone have installed this capacitor? The meter is pretty accurate, I tested it against my Fluke, I want to use these to make things more visible while breadboarding and trying stuff out. Should I install a .01 capacitor across all of them? He sold me 1mA with centered needle. and full scale 5ma, 25ma, 50ma, 100ma and 150ma meters. See photo below. Just confused why the capacitor is installed.

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FOR SALE: EML 50 tube (pair) (satisfaction guaranteed) Less than 25 hours

Asking $500, New $750
LIKE NEW (< 25 hours)
EML 50
Only owner
5 day money back guarantee (less shipping)
Just want to find a happy home for these MINT condition tubes

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Transconductance Amp on Electrostatic Speakers...

Hello all!
Just converted a LM3886 amp to a Current Drive - Transconductance amp...Seems to be fine on my B&W DM220 (test speakers), and thinking of trying them on a set of Quads... anyone with any advice? I read that transconductance amps are better geared to Full Range speakers with some amount of Equalization... and maybe not so happy driving high Capacitance - reactive loads

Measuring Class D BTL/PBTL Amps

I have a number of Class D amps with BTL and PBTL configurations and want to use my Digital scope to do measurement. A connects balanced probe is very expensive so I was thinking of using a transformer to isolate the amp from the ‘scope.

Has anyone else done this and if not, can anyone see a reason why this would not work?

The transformer is taken from a high quality 100V line amp, designed to offer a 4 ohm load to the amp and feed either a 100 or 70v line system. It is rated at 240 watts although Judging by the size, that seems conservative.

What can I do with a one way 2,5" Ciare driver? High QTS/low xmax

Hello! While I was cleaning my garage I found a pair of Ciare PA065 which I bought a long time ago. I never used those drivers and I would like to make a pair of good speakers for my room. So far I've had some ideas, I have some doubts about the pros and cons of each solution.

Idea 1)
These seem like the perfect kind of drivers to use for a FAST, but I don't have any other driver to complement it. I could get a pair of TB W46-1316SM (yes they're 4"x6") woofers which are cheap here, small and with plenty of Xmax. Really the only downside should be the cost, which would consist in a pair of woofers and a passive crossover network.
Would be fun to design a waveguide for it, but I've never done such thing and I don't know if there is any commercial waveguide that fits that size of speaker.
Or, I could experiment and use the Ciare as a dipole tweeter.
Could also still try to add the magnet on the back in order to gain a bit of SPL.

Idea 2)
A quick glance at the parameters shows a very high Qts mated with a high Fs (154Hz) and low Xmax (1mm). This makes the speaker not very good in a sealed box because of a very reduced bass extension and power handling, and terrible in bass reflex because of a crazy high Qts. I could glue a magnet on the back of the speaker but I doubt I could get the Qts under ~0,8. But what if I purposedly built a strongly resonant BR enclosure and then EQd it down using a first order high pass? I would get both the high efficency of the BR and I could really limit the excursion thanks to the HP filter. The box would be quite big especially for such a small speaker, but how could it sound?
I won't be able to use a passive HP, so I would probably have to make the speakers active and make an active HP using opamps. I could use a TDA7292 board which are really cheap. I don't think I will be able to use a PLLXO unless I stick to a known source, like a bluetooth receiver. I could adjust BSC by playing with the HP frequency.

This is in a 10 liters enclosure, tuned to 100Hz and highpassed with a 1st order @ 300Hz
Schermata del 2022-09-16 00-37-53.png
This is with without any filters whatsover. There are over 10dB of ripple at Fb.
Schermata del 2022-09-16 00-37-42.png

Idea 3)
Just make a 2.1 with it. Satellites could be either OB or sealed. That would be a very boring approach which I've seen too many times.

Dual mono BrianGT LM3886 problem.

Hi I had this amp working for years but recently one of the channels is substantially subdued.
I tried Servisol 10, twisting volume control and selector switch repeatedly but to no avail.
I can't even find out where to test for voltages to see where the problem lies-the channel isn't completely dead, just substantially muted.
Any help will be very welcome.

+/- power supply for power amp

Hi
I'm building a power amp using the carcass/PS of one that died. I'm using Symasym5-3 kits that want +/- 20-45 DC power (schematic attached).
The PS of the carcass has DC 75 x 2 and I'm planning to use one for each channel.
However, the 75 DCV supplies are not referenced to ground - there is one cap between +/- from the rectifiers (and not two that are grounded at the connection between the two caps).
The DC voltage is within the acceptable range for the amp modules (ie +/- 37V if the voltage is notionally halved) but the +/- would effectively be referenced to ground through the amp circuit.
Is someone able to tell me whether this would be a problem? Or do I need to get new PS caps so I can incorporate a ground reference between two for each supply?
Thanks, Jon

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WinISD, Reliable subs?

Hello all
Running into something that I don't understand

Driver A - 600wrms 8" 18.8mm xmax
Driver B - 200wrms 8" 13.5mm xmax

Test box 18L 34Hz external port

graph.JPG


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500w signal. Upper trace is driver A and lower is driver B. I don't know how to read this excursion plot. I was expecting driver B to be flapping like crazy with that much power, but it seems comfortable

Is WinISD nuts?

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Linn Kremlin rebuild

I've got one of these where the not so "Brilliant" power supply has crapped its pants and from what I have read they're none too reliable at the best of times.
I have discovered that from the factory, they either came with a Brilliant supply (SMPS) or a toroidal transformer.
In a quest to get this unit back up and running I have decided to fit a toroidal as it will be more reliable than the not so Brilliant supply.
Linn have helpfully added instructions on the screenprinting to show which parts should be fitted when the transformer is used, which tracks should be cut etc.
However, there are some parts which are supposed to be fitted but they don't have any type numbers - just the generic 'U507' (a regulator, which I suspect is likely to be an LM317), D514, C526, Z515 etc.
I did contact Linn to see if they could supply me with the relevant info, the specific part numbers and values etc and they said as the unit was made end of line some 12 years ago they have no information.
What would be really helpful is if someone who has one of these tuners could take the top off and determine the values/type numbers of various components, these being:
D514, D516 (probably just 1N4001)
C524, C525
C526
C527
R528
Z515
U507

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How to wire Alps pot to Alpha 3 position rotary switch

Newbie here, hope this is the right place to post my question. How do I wire a Alps RK27 10K potentiometer to a Alpha 4 pole 12 throw 3 position rotary switch. I want to wire two stereo input sources with one stereo output. Typical unbalanced RCA plugs to make passive preamp. Diagrams, schematics and pictures are very helpful and appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hello from Pennsylvania

Hello all,

From Western Pennsylvania and just found this site / forum today.

Looking to gain knowledge on many audio setups / modifications you can do.

Particularly looking to find out ways to (if possible) use the laser setup on older CD-ROMs to repair some CD Changers I have. Also looking to find out how to identify DACs and how to replace them in a CD Player.

Looking forward to learning. Thanks!

Nakamichi oms-2 laser pickup head

Hi, i have a nakamichi oms-2 with a possible bad laser pickup head (kss-123a). Does anyone know if a kss-152a will work on an oms-2? I don't have a service manual for a oms-2 and from what I read on the internet that the oms-20 is almost identical to the oms-2. But the specs for the laser pickup head are different models and the kss-123a is hard to come by. So has anyone had any experience/success replacing the kss-123a on a oms-2 with a kss-152a laser pickup? Or will it not work at all?

DIY SONY VFET chassis - statement of interest

A few of us were extremely fortunate to obtain Sony VFET output stage kits at BAF2022. I understand the ones auctioned or raffled were originally held back by Papa in case some of the ones in the original lottery needed replacing. Since none have so far, he generously released these remaining ones into the wild.

I spoke with Gianluca of Modushop at BAF2022. He would consider a new build run of the custom VFET chassis for us, provided it's handled as a single production run. For that, I am gathering statements of interest. If you are interested in one of these chassis, please put your name below. Cost was not discussed and I have no further information at this time The goal of this thread is just to see how many people would potentially be interested in one. I'll then pass that on to Gianluca and to the good people at the diyAudio store.

FS: Empirical Audio Off-ramp 5 USB-Audio Interface

Arguably one of the best USB Audio Converters on the market. You'll need to pair it with a DAC (not supplied). I highly recommend pairing it with a dedicated PSU.
Excellent condition and has spent most of it's life sitting in storage (<50 hours use). Includes S/PDIF Hynes Regulator upgrade and a BNC-BNC cable.

I have a 2-channel Keces PSU for sale as well, if you're interested (AUD $250).

Product page: http://www.empiricalaudio.com/products/off-ramp-converter

Price: AUD $1300
Item Condition: Excellent
Shipping Options: Pickup available but audition is not available. Shipping to Australian locations is included. Buyers located outside of Australia will have to pay cost of shipping.
Location: Sydney, NSW
Payment Method: Paypal

Further information:

Photos:
See attached

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For Sale Genuine Toshiba J74/K170 Matched Sets BL/GR Grade IRFP240/9240 Matched Sets NOS

Genuine Toshiba and Vishay purchased from DIYaudio member alweit in 2015 for a project. See photos for a list of the matched sets. All transistors are NOS and have never been installed.

I would rather sell this as 1 complete lot, and I can ship worldwide from Canada.

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Full range sealed box design

When designing a sealed enclosure I understand that a properly sized box (volume) influences frequency response of the speaker. Are there other aspects of the design that can influence how it sounds? Do taller boxes have a taller sound stage? Does baffle width matter? Square edges vs rounded? Symmetrically placed speaker in the baffle vs maybe something like a golden ratio?

Thinking about an moap 7 build that will be crossed over in the 150-250hz range to a sub that can handle that and I’m curious if there’s any conventional wisdom regarding the shape of it. Thanks in advance.

Bassbox 6 Pro, TermPro.. anything better/modern for Windows 10/11?

Hey all,

Long long time ago (20+ years ago).. used TermPro a couple times to design some car sub boxes. Worked great back then. I see that it is still somewhat updated.. looks like they even have a download install now, and updated drivers/etc. But the GUI looks dated for sure. Then there is BassBox 6 Pro. Which only comes on CD.. I can add an external one.. but that's crazy to me that in 2022, it's not updated to support download options.

Both have me a bit worried in terms of how good they are today to design speaker enclosures. While I mainly want to focus on subs.. I also want to build some LCR/rear speaker setups with smaller drivers. I still have my eyes on the DIYSound 1099 (or similar) for home theater of my own.

Can either of these software products be used to build smaller home theater cabinets.. using different drivers? Or are they pretty much only for sub boxes?

More so.. are they accurate.. in terms of sub driver T/S params, ports, etc?

I had one person recently tell me Bassbox Pro is awful for port design, and uses WinISD for that. I don't mind using that along side one of these products.. but ideally I want the sub of my design with wood cut sheet details, possibly cross over details (if that is an option), etc.

As this is purely a hobby.. the $250 for term pro is a bit hefty.. but I'd chalk it up IF it is viable today on a Windows 10/11 system, and provides accurate box design based on modern day drivers, and could possibly be used for home theater cabinets for speakers other than subs. The $150 for Bass Box Pro is a bit friendlier.. but being CD only.. I'd literally rather spend $100 more on Term Pro (which seems to have a recent update in 2022) and download/install than deal with last update in 2013 (though supposedly minor update in 2016). Seems like BassBox Pro is not actively developed. unless they are working on a 7.0 version with updated Windows 10/11 GUI support, etc. Granted.. a more modern GUI is not necessary.. but would be a bit more ideal.

I am not really looking to use sketchup or other tools to build my box cut sheet. I'd rather be able to choose a box design, set up the driver, any cross over (in the case of multiple drivers like mids/highs), etc.. and then have the cut sheet listed so I can more easily cut correctly and build. I believe TermPro and BassBox 6 Pro do that.

If either/both of these are too old/not very good.. and there is another better option that maybe has more box designs, DOES support smaller speaker designs for LCR/rears/etc, I'd be interested in knowing about that as well.

Thank you.

Anyone like DONUTS? :)

Hey all,

I've got some extra donuts I likely won't end up using... Local pickup in Seattle, WA area. Prefer to ship within USA.

  • Pair of new, unused Triad Magnetics VPM48-5200 (medical grade) $100 for the pair (SOLD)
    • Primary: 100, 120, 220 or 240 VAC, 50/60 Hz
    • Secondary: Dual for parallel or series connection
    • Series: 48 V CT at 5.20 A
    • Parallel: 24 V at 10.4 A
    • Electrical Rating: 250 V·A
  • Pair of lightly used Antek AS-3218 (SOLD)
    • 300VA
    • 115V or 230V at 50Hz or 60Hz
    • 2x18VAC
Includes original mounting hardware.

I don't have picture of the Anteks handy (will update later), but I do have a couple for the Triads:
PXL_20220925_024908682.MP.jpgPXL_20220925_025020158.MP.jpg

Edit: and the Antek (already has faston connectors)
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TermPro software.. can it design 4th order with speaker placement, ports, and cut sheets?

So.. looks like Term Pro is probably the best "all around" software for designing a sub. Looks pretty solid.

The enclosure design tab shows the ability to place speakers, ports, etc (a new version as of June 2022).. but what's not clear is if it works with all types of subs. If I choose a 4th order or 6th order band pass box.. and a port of wood (trap? not the tube/flange ones).. can it allow me to place the port per the length needed in the wood design so that the cut sheet generates all the parts I need including the wood cuts for the internal port?

All the demos show only a simple bass reflex with cylinder port. Doesn't show what it would look like for a port that is the size of the box made of wood and folded inside a bit.

Can it do those?

FS: First Watt F3 pcb and Power supply

For sale a pair of F3 pcb left and right and power supply PCB.
Boms schematic and how to tune up can be found here:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1PmSCqq1a3VlRCOnBx9_4yEjgHExdjnG4ctMAcdAyk7w/editThe power supply is designed for dual mono operation, a bridge and capacitor bank separate for each channel.
Price $15USD for a pair of F3 pcb and $10 for the power supply PCB, plus shipping.

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Porting a room possible?

I was thinking recently, and thought of a maybe thought experiment i'd like to learn more about if it makes any sense,

A ported subwoofer is (simplified-ly) a speaker driver in a container/box with a precisely sized port (helmholtz resonator) according to our design parameters (Fb), right?
But then we put this subwoofer in a room (another box), what if we crack open a window or a door a precise amount? Are we then tuning the whole room's Fb?
If the tradeoff for porting a speaker is you might get a lower -3db point, but at the expense of a far steeper rolloff, what if we consider the speaker system as a black box, and tune the room so that it's Fb gets us even lower -3dB (although at a yet steeper rolloff)?
What if this room was then in a building, which has long narrow corridors (say a hotel) which could perhaps be seen as transmission lines. And then we crack open a window in this lobby, we increase the tuning order yet again (because i guess all we are doing is creating a higher order speaker enclosure, in the most ridiculous way possible, and with way too much air volume for the speaker).
I guess you would not get far with this, because which each new order there is less output for the "port" to work with.
Sorry if i misused any terminology, i'm not really a sub guy but i try.. but you get the gist..
Of course for the thought experiment just assume there's no air leaks which are not of our doing, which would be inevitable in the real world.
But if you were some extreme audioguy, you could then put your sub a couple of rooms away, provided you do the maths for this tuning, ideal house dimensions, and also that we live in fairytale land 🙂

I just release my first album

My first ever album was released recently (220923 to be precise) on the record label drift deeper recordings based in London.

Going by the artist name Costallic, the album Perception State is now available on all (as far as I know) streaming sites globally, some of which are listed on the link below:

Costallic - Perception State

The Artwork was self made and the photo used was taken by my brother.



This has been a very interesting, fun and chaotic journey that started only this this year, on the way to this album release I have had the opportunity to meet and connect with a lot of interesting people, amongst which band Carbon Based Lifeforms stands out, their support, helpfulness and encouragement is what made this happen.

The genre of choice for this album is ambient, it is a calm form of electronic music with lots of melodic atmosphere and sonic landscapes mostly devoid of rhythm, in short, its more of meditation music than party music, enjoy.
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For Sale FSUK - Monacor SPH-200TC Woofer (Single)

Clearing some odds and ends before the baby splashdown.

Monacor STH-200TC woofer, mounted and tested in a project that was never used or finished so it hasn't had minimal use. Dual voice coii.

Cheapest I can find these is £77.

£25 POSTED TO UK.


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https://www.monacor.com/products/components/speaker-technology/hi-fi-speakers-/sph-200tc/

Impedance (Z)2 x 8 Ω
Frequency rangef3-4,000 Hz
Resonant frequency (fs)28 Hz
Power rating (RMS)2 x 60 W
Peak music power output (MAX)2 x 100 W
SPL88 dB/W/m
Suspension compl. (Cms)1.01 mm/N
Moving mass (Mms)32 g
Mech. Q factor (Qms)6.19
Electr. Q factor (Qes)0.25
Total Q factor (Qts)0.24
Equivalent volume (Vas)65 l
DC resistance (Re)2 x 6.8 Ω/ 3.4 Ω
Force factor (BxL)8.90 Tm
Voice coil induct. (Le)2 x 1.0 mH/ 1.0 mH
Voice coil diameterØ 50 mm
Voice coil formerKapton
Linear excursion (XMAX)± 3.75 mm
Eff. cone area (Sd)210 cm2
Magnet weight840 g
Magnet diameterØ 120 mm
Mounting cutoutØ 185 mm
Mounting depth93 mm
DimensionsØ 210 mm x 102 mm
Outside diameterØ 210 mm
WidthØ 210 mm
Depth102 mm
Colourblack
Admiss. ambient temp.0-40 °C
Weight2.6 kg
Packing unit1
Type of speaker8"
Packing dimensions (W x H x L)0.22 x 0.125 x 0.225 m
Gross weight2.855 kg
Net weight2.595 kg

Advice on choosing the best 8 inch fullrange drivers?

Hello everyone. I am looking at getting a new pair of 8 inch fullrange driver's. Here are the list of drivers I am looking at?

1. Audax AM21LB25ALBC driver's.
2. Visaton B-200 driver's.
3. Dayton Audio's PS-220-08 driver's.
4. Hemptone HT8FR-04 driver's.
5. Tang Band W8-1808 driver's.
6. Fostex F-200 A Driver's.
7. Mark Audio alpair 12p driver's.
8. Lowther driver's ( if they can be shipped to me )?

That's all of the 8 inch driver's I have my eyes on? If someone could give me advice on these driver's that would be great? Sound, set up and is it worth it to spend more money on certain driver's then other's? Thanks Jm

Update. I want to use them as a 2 channel set up. I will be using them for music and to go low as possible. If I need to add a sub I will after I build my speakers first. Jm

Recommendations for converting record player amp for guitar usage

Hi All - I'm looking for some suggestions for modifications to make to the amplifier from a Voice of Music record player (model 556a) to use it as a guitar amp - see attached schematic for details. It is a 6V6 push-pull amp with a 12AX7 being used as a preamp and a phase inverter if I'm understanding the schematic correctly.

I know enough about tube amps to keep myself alive while working on them, and the basics of how they work. I don't know enough to understand what changing values of resistors and capacitors is likely to do. I was thinking it would be nice to add gain to the preamp section to get some distortion with out cranking up the amp, and perhaps add another pot to vary the input signal level to control how much distortion is being produced. I think I could probably figure out how to adjust the input signal level, but I don't know what to do to bump up the preamp gain.

Other suggestions would be welcome!

Thanks,
Clark

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An Improved Transmission Alignment II

Nine years ago, I made this thread about how to make transmission lines that are well behaved: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/an-improved-transmission-line-alignment.243483/

There was nothing in that thread that was particularly ground breaking, it was mostly stuff I'd absorbed from looking at patents and other audio threads. I still look to it all the time, I think the information in there is useful.

For the past couple of years I've been obsessed with trying to come up with a speaker with wide horizontal directivity and narrow vertical directivity that doesn't break the bank. My musings are here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-nightmare-before-labor-day.374570/

After months/years pondering this stuff, I think that cardioids or dipoles are probably the best solution to this problem.

oAH5B2e.png


If your amplifier power is limited, you can control directivity on the "Y" axis using a very tall loudspeaker. Dunlavy, Snell and Dynaudio do this. I'm not saying that you MUST use a small amp with a Dunlavy or Dynaudio speaker; what I'm getting at is that the cardioid solution proposed in this thread eats up a lot of power.

KXCfuYN.jpg


Modern cardioids are far from efficient, but they use destructive interference to control directivity on THREE dimensions: front to back, left to right, and top to bottom.

If you want to make one of these systems, here's a way that's worked for me:

i77at4Q.png


The first step is to make on offset transmission line. This method is no different than what I wrote here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/an-improved-transmission-line-alignment.243483/

TGmbTi7.png


Once you've typed in the values for your tline, click on "Calculate"

Under the "Acoustical Power" window, click on the "tools" menu and select the "Combined" option under the "Output" menu option. (Picture is worth a thousand words, see above.)

To be continued...

Mods to Improve Andrew Jones Pioneer Speakers?

As many of you are aware, the Andrew Jones designed Pioneer speaker line is considered a giant killer for the price. Mr. Jones is an outstanding designer, very well regarded. However, these were obviously constrained by the very low final selling price.

I'm referring to the models SP-BS41-LR (reviewed by Stereophile with good results), SP-FS51-LR, SP-BS21-LR and the newer versions, SP-BS22-LR and SP-FS52.

Home Theater Speakers | Pioneer Electronics USA

These all have microwave formed curved wall cabinets of decent quality, making them a promising starting point for those who like to mod rather than starting from scratch.

Has anyone had a chance to look into modifying these with better parts/dampening to bring them into a yet higher realm of sonic quality?

The only mod I've seen so far is exchanging the tweeter for a Vifa BC25TG15-04. The fellow that did it (over on the PE forum) was very happy with the results and it looked like a very easy mod. Just swapping the original faceplate onto the Vifa.

Other ideas would be to line the cabinet walls with fiberglass or UltraTouch, or even some Acry-Tech Acoust-X or maybe a homebrew mix of latex based tile adhesive and playground sand (supposedly very good). The trick would be reaching in there! Small woofer hole.

Of course, there's always replacing the crossover components with something more 'audiophile approved.'

As far as appearance, I wonder how hard it would be to add some real wood veneer to the vinyl veneer that's on there.... might test the limits of a good contact adhesive to make that work.....

Any experimenters been playing around with these?

I'm sure Mr. Jones could give us some good pointers in terms of where he cut corners to meet the price point and thus the best places to focus on for improvements.... but he's not talking. 🙂

LME49810 sourcing

Hello
I am trying to fix a classe amp which uses a LME49810, to my dismay, the only sources I find are chinese sellers on e-pay, I bought two of them(different sellers), which don't work, sink and source outputs goes to V-, I found no shorts, I am sure that the amp is not workig due this chip.

if this chip is so marvelous, why has it been discontinued ? and where can I buy one that has no doubts of being genuine ?

thank you
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