To notch or not to notch

When measuring low levels of THD or THD+N the recommendation is often to use a notch and LNA.

Here is a measurement at -2dBFS of a AK4493 dac with ES9822PRO. Without notch.

ak4493d-L_ES9822PRO-L_1k@48k_-2dBFS.PNG


I get similar results with another ES9822PRO ADC so this is not device dependent. And just to show that this is not some heavy distortion cancellation here is the same setup but with at 2567Hz -3dBFS.

ak4493d-L_ES9822PRO-L_2k567@48k_-3dBFS.PNG


So very similar result.

Now let's use a -30dB notch + LNA (CosmosAPU). But before that here is a measurement without notch but at -32dBFS level.

ak4493d-L_ES9822PRO-L_1k@48k_-32dBFS.PNG


Third harmonic is now clearly dominating over 2nd. Hard to tell if this is due to DAC or ADC.

And finally a measurement at -2dBFS using Cosmos APU +6dB with compensation.

ak4493d-L_CosmosAPU-notch_ES9822PRO-L_1k@48k_-2dBFS.PNG


The harmonic profile is very similar to previous measurement at -32dBFS.

Now the question: compared to the first measurement without notch why would this notch measurement be considered more accurate?

SMPS powered JLH 69 - quick and dirty results

I just wanted to share some things I found today while playing around. I recently bought a connexelectronics 48V SMPS500R-single to power a Pass Zen v1 amp that I have. Unfortunately when i tried the SMPS on the amp my outputs shorted internally(I am still not sure what happened) so no more Zen V1 until I figgure out the issue.

Today I decided to try my SMPS on a JLH 69 amplifier I assembled using MJ15003 outputs and an unregulated linear supply. With the linear supply the amp sounded good but it never sounded like something special. It was easily bested by my Decware Zen select when A/Bed on multiple occasions. It also always had a slight hum on my parker audio 98s (96db/watt/m) but you couldn't hear it from the listening position.

With the SMPS I had no hum and no noise from the speakers and it sounded better in every way. The soundstage was bigger, the sound was clearer (less veiled) and the bass was improved. The amp now sounds like a real high end amp to me. I have not A/Bed it with the Decware Zen select but if I were to make a guess I would bet they are now close to the same level but just different "flavors". I think I may order another smps with the proper voltage for my JLH and make this a permanent addition.

BTW i tried adding a 1mh coil between the smps and the JLH to clean up any noise from the smps. I previously tested this unloaded and the coil did lower the noise output on the smps. I found however that this had a negative impact on the sound of the amp. The bass seemed to be reduced and it gave the amp an overly forward sound. If I were to play with this again it would be with an inductor made of a much higher gauge wire. Honestly I really don't think it is needed.

I put this up so that any of you who still think SMPS is not for hifi. I think the technology is here and could be used to push some current amplifier designs even further. If you haven't played around with SMPS I suggest you give it a try.

Learning by dissecting circuits

Hello,

My usual warning: I am learning. I have much to learn. I will often ask stupid questions and reach incorrect conclusions. Thank you for any education you may give me.

I am trying to learn more about tube amplifier circuits by reading and dissecting examples.

Case in point:

circuit.jpeg


I already peppered this one with questions (A, B, C).

I also assume that only capacitors at 1 and 2 would affect frequency response. Am I correct?

I still have much to learn about picking proper operating points for the tubes themselves. I am not sure if the values shown on this drawing are anywhere near correct. But I suspect they may be odd or wrong. (but it's probably just me and my ignorance)
But in that regards, how can this design be compatible with all of 12AT7, 12AX7 and 12AU7?

Finally, do you know of any reference that would inventory circuit patterns found in tube amplifier designs? I have not been doing this for very long, but I think there are quite a few pieces that appear in many designs and it would be O so wonderful if they were catalogued and explained somewhere.

Again, thank you for any help and sorry for the stupid questions.
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Small sub

Hi everyone,

I recently looked at the small powered sub from Fostex that uses a 200mm driver and was wondering if there were any designs using even smaller drivers?

I know the (sorry to use the 'B' word) Bose Acoustimass literature says it uses 3 smallish 5.25" drivers in a seventh-order band-pass config (3 chambers + x-over?)

Are there any known designs that use a 4 or 5 inch driver(s) in a small cabinet to give sub-woofery-type noises?

I have access to a CNC router, so cutting fiddly bits isn't an issue.

For all I know, small drivers and subwoofer may be competely incompatible,

but I thought I would ask.

Any help will be appreciated.

Sidegig Guitar EVM from Texas Instruments thoughts?

Not sure if this is the right place to post but has anyone actually tried the SIDEGIG-GUITAREVM from Texas Instruments?

Here is the evaluation board
http://www.ti.com/tool/SIDEGIG-GUITAREVM

And it plugs into the TPA3255 Class-D amlifer
http://www.ti.com/tool/tpa3255evm

I am wanting to build a Bass amplifier and want to base my whole design around the TPA3255 amp and use the SIDEGIG design as my preamp and overdrive circuit but I am worried it might not sound as good as I want it to.

Has anyone tried it out yet?
If I posted in the wrong section please let me know where I should post...

ATI Amplifier Schematic

If anyone's ever been curious what ATI is putting into their amplifiers, here is a schematic I found. Generally speaking, their schematics do not seem to have been published. For those who aren't familiar with ATI, ATI is a fairly large US-based amplifier manufacturer that has not outsourced everything to China. They have OEMed products for a number of companies, although for the most part they don't admit whose products they make. Their calling card, though, is individual amplifier modules and you can usually tell their products from the back panel.

To be fair, this schematic is actually for the Earthquake Cinenova Grande circa 2014. They were kind enough to post it on their European website (by accident?). The amp is clearly an ATI. The original versions had the same goofy parallel port connector ATI introduced (and which went nowhere), the modules use the same heatsink as the ATI AT2505, the topology is a complementary diff which ATI is known to use, and so forth. Whether ATI still uses this exact circuit in their house branded products, I don't know. I suspect in lower priced OEM gear like the Monoprice Monolith they do (less a few output devices). Their new high end stuff is a fully balanced design, so is different.

This is a fairly simple design complementary differential input design, without a whole lot of tricks up its sleeve. It is what it is and perhaps someone will find it useful if they're trying to fix one. Or are curious how a particular design performs. (Bench tests at Product Review). I suppose they had to keep the parts count down to fit it all on the module? Who knows. There is a lot that could have been done here that was not. My guess is that this is close to the same thing (or even less sophisticated) than what Jim Bongiorno designed for SAE more than 40 years ago (which was owned by the same people as ATI).

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Getting 60W from 6C33C push-pull

Hi guys, is it possible to get 60W of power output from a pair of 6C33C? I see some designs getting 40W out from pushpull Class A. How about Class AB 6C33C with more of power output? Can anyone recommend bias point?

I'm also looking at EL509 triode mode which has Rp of 200 ohm. It may be a good alternative to 6C33C class AB because of its high peak current?

Thanks in advance for your suggestion. 🙂

TPA3255 repeated fault when cold

Hi all,

I custom built an 8 channel amplifier made from 4 separate TPA3255 dual channel amplifiers with a microcontroller coordinating their reset based on time and the input voltage levels. They all exhibit the same issue.

The issue is, when I first turn the amplifier on and it's at room temperature, the TPA3255 will be brought out of reset after the the microcontroller has seen the power supplies have settled (12V and PVDD) then the microcontroller will connect the speakers through the output relay. Now, everything will be fine for approximately 3-5 seconds when the TPA will go into fault mode (FAULT -> 0 and CLIP_OTW -> 1). The microcontroller then disconnects the amplifier by turning off the relays, puts the TPA3255 into reset, waits 1s, brings the TPA3255 out of reset then connects the speakers via the relay once again. Now the cycle repeats for about 10mins until the heatsinks are a little warm to the touch.

Could anyone suggest why the TPA3255s might be behaving this way? Attached is my schematic.

Many thanks,
Boscoe

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Pair Scanspeak tweeter and Royd midbass

For sale pair of tweeter and midbass,used but good condition,taken out from Royd audio Apex speakers.Price for all 4 units 60 euro plus 15-20eu shipping inside europe.If interest plese contact me.Paying thru paypal.

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Why not Cirrus or TI or something other than ESS and AKM?

There’s the ESS hump
then AKM is trying to get back on its feet and is considered soft sounding.…..


why don’t DAC manufacturers use other chipsets like Cirrus or TI or something else?

i don’t get it.


out of a bunch of DACs I tried. The Topping D30pro which uses the newest Cirrus chip sounded most natural. Lacked weight and punch, but I think that was just toppings fault at a sh$$ty implementation.


so why all the fuss around ESS and AKM when nothing new in DACs which use these sounds so good?


cheers

Remote control kits

As some people here may know, I have designed some remote control boards.

So far I have a small board for controlling a motorized pot, and two different boards for "passive preamps". A lot more will be added, when I have to time to get it finished 😉

You can read about them here: http://electronics.dantimax.dk/

And you can read some of the background info on my personal website.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

LF driver help

I have a FR 8" Diatone alnico driver in a 1cu ft enclosure which is ported. I like it, but bass is lacking. I was thinking of installing a 8" woofer to the rear of the cabinet and running it so I get a push-pull effect. I would have to attach it to the outside on the back, and face it towards the front speaker ( not enough depth to put it inside). Anyone ever try this? Diatone is 4 ohm...so how to connect...in series?

Why are there almost no JBL 2235H equivalents?

JBL 2235H.

The only equivalent (possibly superior) driver I have come across is the AE TD15H.

This driver seems to be super versatile. High sensitivity, low Fs. Good for subwoofer, two way (crossed over to a CD-Waveguide), three way, Hi-Fi, HT, SET amps... what have you...

I wonder why nobody is making such a driver now, other than Acoustic Elegance. Or am I missing something?

For Sale 2015 Sony VFETs part 2 FE pcbs

Hello,

I have for sale 2 stereo pcbs done after the article in the title.

https://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_sony_vfet_pt2.pdf
Schematic on page 5, only what regards the front end.

I used them as a balanced preamp with very good performance.

I attached a photo of the part that is included on the pcbs.

The pcbs come with all the parts populated except the active parts in the signal path(jfets, bipolars, mosfets).

I have also the low noise power supplies that I used with them.

Sold


EDIT: attached also a thd measurement done with the same power supplies I sell here and the semis I removed.

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FS new Lundahl Chokes , 2x LL1673 200mA/10Hy, 2x LL2742 90mA/46Hy

FS:

hi all, selling for a friend:

2x new choke LL1673, 200mA/10Hy - both 200€ shipping included in EU​

2x new choke LL2742, 90mA/46Hy - both 200€ shipping included in EU​

unused and never mounted, parts got from Jacmusic.com

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ADAGIO from Dr. Bora Jagodics

New year, new build,in progress, tone correction preamplifier with 12AX7EH schematic ADAGIO from Dr.Bora Jagodics (R.I.P.) . Second build this year .....
Regards,
Alex

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For Sale Bose 901 (pair), with stands, No EQ box

For sale is a pair of used Bose 901 speakers, untested and sold as is. I acquired these as a project that I longer have time for. The veneer is rough but not unrehabilitable. One loudspeaker is in tougher shape than the other. You can find these for sale, often missing either the EQ box or stands. This pair has the stands but no EQ box, which is less an issue as modern DSP has made the issue mute. I haven’t checked on the drivers but I’m sure the original foam surrounds requires that some of them be replaced; in this instance, one would replace them all regardless. See pictures.

Local pickup only, Oakland (Bay Area, CA). $30

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Filament voltage and tube hum

I am working on a Magnecord 1048 Tube Reel to Reel. It has a tube preamp stage which include a 7025 and a 12AT7. The issue is that no sound coming out of 12AT7 pin 3 (the output). If I manually feed audio to the input of 12AT7 (Pin 7), it is all good. But if I feed audio to the input of 7025 (pin 7), then I get nothing even if I turn the volume to the max.

After some test, I noticed that the Filament voltage of the 7025 (between Pin 4 and pin 5) is only around 4v. So I adjusted the variable resistor to increase the 7025 filament voltage to around 6v. Now, there is hum coming out of the 12AT7 output and it is increaseing/decreasing with the turning of volume control. So I think the 7025 still has some issue. Any suggestions?

2.jpg


1.JPG

6550 SED "Winged C" matched set 16 tubes

SOLD



Selling quads. One set remaining
$375 plus shipping

NOS Never used other than testing and burn in by vendor. I bought 5 years ago and sold my amps.
If you are looking you know these are rare and some say the best 6550 tubes ever made and will never be made again in all likelihood. They are Russian Svetlana not those TAD or any relabeled newer production.
Most are dated around 0144 so later 2001

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Anyone tryed cleaning records with wood glue?

Sounds just like a thing not to do, but internet is full of people that had done that, with evidence and it sure does remove alot of noise.

On the other hand internet is full of people suggesting not to use anything other than records cleaner or some cleaning kits.

I have some old 7" records that I'm willing to use for testing and if I will get good results repeatedly I'm willing to use it on some records that I had bought recently. I believe that there are particles of paper degrading... Albums smell like mold. There is alot of surface noise, but visualy records look ok, soap and distiled water helped a bit, but not much.

Before trying I want to hear your opinions?

FOR SALE or TRADE: Black Gate VK 22µF 350V caps - will trade for tubes

I have 4 unused Rubycon Black Gate NK capacitors (22µF 350V) and one used 150.µF 350V.

These are now unobtainium.

Brand new, never used. They were bought from PartsConnexion in 2005 for a project that was eventually abandoned. I'd forgotten I even had them until I moved and had to clean up my "projects" bins.

I rate them as a 10/10 (Mint) as they are technically NOS (the four 22µF 350V).

$300 for all five caps or will trade a pair of tubes. I'm looking for:

  • Sophia Electric EL34 ST
  • Blackburn Mullard EL34
  • Genalex Golden Lion KT77

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Dynaudio Esotec D-260 replacement diaphragm

Has anyone successfully used the diaphragms available on Ebay from China to replace faulty units on the D-260?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/155073132755?hash=item241b1438d3

While the Ebay item does have a 28mm, 8 Ohm voice coil there are some slight differences to the original diaphragm. Firstly, the Ebay item is only 42mm overall diameter compared to the original at 45mm. On the D-260 diaphragm terminal plate there is a raised plenum area with a diameter of exactly 45mm so it is easy to ensure a genuine diaphragm is correctly centred. With the Ebay item you would need to accurately inscribe a circle onto the plenum surface to match the outer diameter of the new 42mm diaphragm. Get the centre point a fraction of a mm off centre and the voice coil will scrape down the side of the magnetic gap.

On the original diaphragm the lead wires from the voice coil are brought out to the front side of the diaphragm but on the Ebay item they are left on the underside. This means that small holes must be made adjacent to the voice coil so that the lead wires can be poked through the diaphragm to get to the top side.

Now if one can overcome these problems it should be possible to fit replacement diaphragms from Ebay to the venerated Esotec D-260 and restore them to near new performance.

I welcome any input and advice from those who may have tried this operation.

Dilema on what route to take double 18s reflex or TH

Guys,
i wanna share a story and ask for some advice
last friday i did a gig on a small bar around 100 people max ( tecno cumbia band . aka selena quintanilla , elida reyna )
i own 4 LX18's (b52) that i did not used that gig cause i did not had help to move the boxes

anyway a friend have their kids ( on their mid 20's ) who help him with his speakers
so he offered to put the set the speakers for me,

i played that place before with the LX18's (i have 4 but used just 2 ) and 2 tops ( jbl MR925's)
i drive the 2 LX18's with a bridged crown XLS2500 and the jbls with a bridged XLS2000
with an old drive rack PA

so this was the thing, he lent me and move for me 2 yamahas CW218V's (dual 18 bass reflex ) and one carvin TRX215 as top
i adjusted the LP filter to 24db LR 30 HZ for the yammies and HP to 24db LR 100HZ
the yammies are rated at 30hz freq response and i can go lower on the LP setting but i wanted to play safe as those was not my speakers
( i tweaked the attenuation knobs on the amps so to have a balanced subs to tops balanced )
as i never played with that speaker setup before

anyway, after putting some reference tracks on the sound check i EQ'd the master bus on the board ( behringer X18 ) some BELL -6db on the 125 HZ range with a Q of 1
that taked off the boomines of the system/room sound and let the subs sound more punchy , i also attenuated BELL around 3-4k with -4db with a Q of 1 to take away the
harshines of the carvin top and boosted around 10k high shelf +4db
that made the tops to play more to my taste

ok so, the system was playing around 30-40 percent on the power amps lights
and i was impressed with the sub info coming out from the yammies, it felt more visceral, ( subs was next to me around 2 feet )
but people on the dance floor were more ecstatic if you can call it, as i can tell how they were dancing and compare to other times, indeed the smile on my face for how the sound was performing cant deny how i was enjoying the gig.

The workers and managers at the bars told me, hey we never heard that much bass coming from any system here ( i mean other bands own PA ) and not even my system
in fact the other guys do not have a sound guy and locally the knowledge in audio from local bands are close to none, there is a guy who plays with 4 QSC KS118's and 2 KLA12's
and not even sound half as good as the yammie system. ( told by one of the bartenders who also plays in other bands )

anyway, my point is that i was able to squezze the most i can get from the system even i was not playing to their limits but i mean that not with my own speakers i liked how it sound.

So do i switch to dual18's bass reflex that are easier to build as DIY or do i try the keystone or TH18 ( i know those cant compare to my rubish LX18's that i know not even were good designed like CV L36 )

If i go to double 18's what designs you recommend ( 18sound and b&c have recommended plans on their website also )
is there any bandpass design you guys recommend
and from from the horns and tapped horns what you guys recommend

I was truly impressed how i can feel the bass with 2 double 18's cabinets and i knows those yammies are not the best design

i want to start with 2 cabinets, 4 being ideal but will scale to 8 in the future

I just love the compliments if people that says that the band sound awesome and other that says
" your system rocks"
"never heard a system like it"
"this thing punch you in the chest"
" this make me to dance"

Phun intended !

thanks for making DIY one of the best places for advice and help
you guys ROCK!!!
Best.
Max.

Question on QUAD 303 current limitations

Has anyone tested, or have an idea, of the output current bottleneck in the 303?
The usual suspects are:
1- transformer voltage collapse
2- power supply regulator circuit collapse/limiter
3- amp output stage (or drive) limiter.

I figure the recommended 67V supply voltage is a function of how much the pre-regulator 80V collapses under high current demand.
So may be a higher capacity transformer would also allow a little higher regulator voltagee.

I would like my 303 to breathe better with my sub-6Ohms low-impedance speakers.

Boxing in transformers?

Hello, starting my first build with OPTs today, along with a power transformer I wound myself just yesterday but as all of the transformers are unshielded and I have some mumetal around I was wondering if it would be worth the time to construct some boxes around them to keep any interference away?

Maybe just wasted time and definitely something I could add later but thought I'd ask 🙂
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Digital IIR Inverse RIAA filter 1kHz @ 0 dB Audacity Nyquist

Any Nyquist mathematicians out there able to help me out in creating an inverse RIAA IIR command that can be plugged into Audacity's Nyquist prompt? The sampling frequency is 96 kHz, and it needs to have 1 kHz with 0 dB gain.

I've been playing around with the Wayne Stegall program, but either it doesn't work the way I think it should or I've critically misinterpreted something. I'm pretty sure that the program is misleading at first glance to newbies like me because the "zero frequency" is actually a pole around 50 kHz and not where you tell it that that frequency should have zero gain (?). I've tried a bunch of things only to get errors or very mangled/destroyed waveforms. I know a pretty good deal about a lot of 78 RPM restoration but not so much about Nyquist. Hopefully this is possible. Thanks!

Now that I think about it, maybe it would work if I told it to implement a gain of around -20 dB? I want to be sure to make as few gain changes as possible and have it be the exact same thing as if i transferred the record with no RIAA emphasis/deemphasis in the first place. Expert opinions needed.

http://waynestegall.com/audio/riaaiir.htm

Beginner REW / Volumio advice please

I think I might be being a little dim here.
Or i have missed an obvious point.

I think that maybe I have confused myself reading bits and bobs.
I think this might be more of a Volumio question.

I have been dabbling with my source and PSUs.

I am using a USBridge Sig and Volumio.
Just bodged together a 'Fast, fun inexpensive OB project'.
Pretty pleased.

My next thought wandered to my room and picked up a Umik-1 and downloaded REW to my laptop.

I have loads of questions, but am kind of stuck on step 1.
'Connect to your system'.

I can play an audible sweep by just plumbing the 3.5mm output of the laptop through my amp.
I can record and see the graphs produced and am looking forward to learning what it shows.

Am I right in thinking that this is good enough for room treatment?
I am not looking to do anything major, I am just curious to see if I have any major issues.

However, am I right in thinking that i can use this now to listen to my speaker output and/or my system output to see where I am at?
In which case, I am thinking that i need to put digital signal into the USBridge sig so it gets the whole system, using the DACs and PSUs etc.
In other words, I am thinking that i want to make my laptop and REW a digital source for Volumio?
Probably via USB?

I generally stream over the internet or access a separate source via LAN or use a USB stick as a source.
But I can't find how to use a laptop (or, out of interest, a phone?) as a USB source.
I have tried fiddling with Volumio, but I haven't done the right thing yet.

Am I thinking right or have I got this wrong?

After the above, my next bit is that I can't access all of the settings like any walkthroughs show, but am wondering if they might show after i manage to connect properly.
Currently, step 3 is 'set output on laptop to 48kHz' I am using a Linux OS on it and it doesn't seem to have that option that I can find.

Thanks.

DIY Soundsystem Build Suggestions

I am looking to build out a complete soundsystem. Right now I built 2 tapped horns as subs and plan to build a second pair. They run from 27Hz to 200Hz but would like to crossover around 150Hz or so.

I am going for the "wall of speakers" aesthetic and am hoping for some suggestions on what to build for the midbass/tops. Here are the current constraints: Total sub depth is 30" but they have angles corners, depth at the top is roughly 25.75". A pair of the subs side by side, rubber feet to rubber feet is 46.5" wide. The subs are 45" tall. The pair of the subs will hit 130dB on the lower passbad continuously, 135/140 dB on the upper passbad. It is also worth mentioning that the pair of subwoofers have a rough maximum continuous power of 1000W per pair. It would be nice if the midbass bins to have a similar power rating.

What I kinda had in mind was to have some sort of W-bin type enclosure for the midbass and have a constant directivity horn with a horn driver crossed over at roughly 400Hz from the midbass horn. That is just a rough idea and I'm not sure if a W-bin would be the right type of enclosure.

Any suggestions/thoughts? In order of priority the characteristics of the system go: Efficiency/Sensitivity, Aesthetics, Fidelity, Size (somewhat portable). Rough budget would be 3-4k USD.

Has anyone bought TO-3 transistors lately?

I see the MJ15003/4 are back in stock at Digi-Key, albeit at ridiculous prices ($10). These were once my favorite audio transistors, and they are still capable of excellent audio today. The MJ15024/5 are slightly less expensive ($8), probably because they have slightly lower current ratings.

However, I don't see TO-3 transistors in any equipment from the past two decades. I expect that old designs are the only things keeping these transistors in production.

Given the comments about fakes, would you trust TO-3 transistors today?
Ed
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Marantz TT42 tracking force...

Hy,
I own the mentioned TT and people online are stating that you cannot upgrade the cartridge because the tonearm had fixed tracking force...

Now this might sound as a complete nonsence as I'm new to TTs,
but there is a screw at the base of the tonearm that clearly changes the tilt of the tonearm.
I had to adjust that screw when I received the TT, because tonearm was clearly too low. It will adjust the tilt for about 1cm end to end.

Isn't tracking force dependable on the tilt?
I understand that there is no VTA adjustment and that the tilt should be in parallel with the record.

Even if this is not the solution why couldn't I remove / cut the counterweight of the tonearm and install adjustable one?
Am I missing something?

A blast from the past …Wharfedale 1cu ft cabinets

I have a pair of 60’s? Pioneer PAX 20g 15ohm Alnico drivers that have been safely packed away for years. I recently tested them and they work fine. It’s winter and Its been a while since I made anything. After a long diversion into solid state I want to build something that will work near field with flea power tubes, a darling I’m thinking of building and a 71A amp I built years ago. Room space is very tight as you can see (bedroom/office) 12x12ft and music is mostly 60’s & 70’s at moderate volumes (neighbours with kids). This will be only my second speaker build, the first being a pair of small back loaded/spiral horns using Tang Band drivers…..very happy with those, currently driven by a quad 303 ….but my 71A amp has 15 ohm outputs. I randomly thought I’d have a go at “classic” Wharfedale 1cu foot cabinets, as they will fit on my stands in the limited space available and it got me using a router to cut holes for the first time. From what I can see the original Pioneer cabinet plans for the PAX-30 a size up from mine are pretty big….I couldn’t find the plans for the 20g. In the cabinet handbook for the 1cu ft Briggs mentions building these either with a “distributed port” (slotted back) or as a straight BR with a tuned 9x1” slot port. This isn’t a vital project, just a bit of fun, but wood isn’t as cheap as it used to be And I can’t decide on…..one or many slots? Anyone got any thoughts between the straight BR or the DP?
Mike

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[DAC REVIEW] Weilang Audio DC-100 Dual AK4497 + Dual Talema PSU

Hi amigos,

Let me share my test of the Weilang Audio DC-100 DAC.
This is an awesome dual AK4497EQ Dac with a dual Talema linear PSU.

This is the top version of WA DC-100, with Nichicon caps and hi ends audiophile components. The DAC allows you to use 4 digital filters via the OLED control panel.

Setup test :

- TPA3255 Amplifier with updated OPA 1622 + Linear PSU (handmade see pictures)
- Weilang Audio DC-100 DAC
- HTC 10 Audiophile phone APTX
- Hi end floor speakers 2.5 way, 93DB @ 120W RMS handmade in France

Out of the Box :

Test with the Slow Roll digital filter + TPA3255 OPA1622 Amplifier : sounds amazing ! Via the Bluetooth APTX + HD Audio files 24 Bit (Hi res. streaming) : great dynamic, sharp and very articulated sound. Soundstage is fantastic (AK4497 help). The combo TPA3255 + AK4497 works really nice. From Jazz to Classical music files, we can ear all the details, fingers sliding on guitars, cymbals articulation, accurate voices etc...
Seems to be a great DAC but need to burn it and test with other digital filters.

I did not test via the Amanero USB port... next step )


Spec :

- Dual AK4497EQ audio Chip
- Dual Talama linear PSU
- Updates OPA 2X MUSE 02 + 2X MUSE 03
- Amanero USB Chipset
- Bluetooth APTX 5.0 CSR8675 LL HD
- DSD256/PCM384K
-Coax fiber 192 K 24BIT.
- USB 384 K 32BIT + DSD
- 2.8 MHz, 5.6 MHz, 11.2 MHz, 22.4 MHz DSD


Pictures :

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surveillance system camera was working and all of a sudden will not connect.

DIDSeth H.265 4CH 5MP POE Security Camera System Kit 4pcs AI IP Camera Outdoor​


is the kit that i bought, all cameras were working fine for a month then one camera took a crap, and it was a camera that was inside, never seen outisde.

i imagine some circuit might have overloaded?

i can post detailed pics but i do not have a scope or big electrical equipment, all i have is a multimeter

Tubelab SE Odd Bias Behavior

Hi All,

I have a Tubelab SE with 300B tubes that I have been happily running for a few years, but recently have been having an odd issue with holding bias. It all started when I was getting squawks in one channel which I traced down to a noisy 5842, so I replaced the two 5842s.

Since then, it's very tricky to hold the 300B bias steady at any values higher than 60ma. Once the amp has warmed up, if I set both tubes to 65ma, and check an hour later, the right one will have shot up to 85ma, the left staying around 65ma. If I turn the right down to 65ma, the left will start creeping up and the right will float down to 60ma. It seems to hold bias around 60ma in each tube, but any attempt to bring it higher then that results in the slow floating around. Even just now I set each tube to 62ma, and 5 min later the right tube is down to 61ma and the left is up to 64ms. It's not that I need the values always perfect, but my worry is that in 2 hours that left tube will have crept up to un unsafe value. Even as I have been writing this the right is down to 60ma now and the left at 65ma.

All measurements are in mV across R18 & R29, with the amp warmed up but without music playing. I have the Edcor XPWR-008 transformer, with B+ around 360-370VDC.

Anyway, I'm not sure what parts I should be checking, or any advice in troubleshooting would be much appreciated!

Preamp solid state GK 2000CPL hiss problem

hello everyone, I start by saying that I'm not an electronics expert but I really like it and I would like to give it a try to try and find a solution to the problem, practically the GK and a preamp that I connect to the marshall 9200 power amp and you hear a strong hiss that increases as the volume increases, both clean channel A and distorted channel B, both with guitar connected and not connected, I am attaching a video for now I have limited myself to trying to replace the components of the power supply stage because I thought they were the cause of the problem, the replaced components are circled in red, but the problem evidently persists not in the power supply stage. Thanks

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modifying Cyrus DACMaster

Hi

I've heard, that it's possible to improove some old dacs with a new clock section and/or an new dac section. A "hifi mechanic" told me so.
Is it possible for a cyrus dacmaster too?

the world wild wildlife says its using 2 x AD1862N - SM5813APT (dac parts)

Has somebody experiences?
Can somebody give me more information about the "AD1862N - SM5813APT"

thanks michael

GOLD NOTE STIBBERT Black Pearl CD-Player - Repair - Wiring Diagram

Hello,
after long time, i need again some help...

Has anybody the schematic or any experience of Gold Note Stibbert Black Pearl CD-Player?

This is a quite old CD-Player from Gold Note, using tubes in output.

The specific unit has a serious problem with the power supply as it seems that one trafo has been exploded!!
I also see that this device has been repaired again in the past, as well as heavily 'modified' (without actual reason), obviously from someone not that expertized...

Anyway, the power supply looks standard (not something special), but my problem is that due to previous repairs / modifications, i am not sure what is original and what not...

As i want to bring the player to its original condition, i would appreciate if someone could send me the wiring diagram, at least of the power supply.

Thank you in advance.

thebet

Analog Crossover Network for LX Mini complete

Hey all!

This is my first post in this forum and also my very first competed DIY audio project 🙂

I’ve been wanting to build a pair of LX Minis for years and finally pulled the trigger on everything

Looking into the crossovers for them, most people go for a Mini DSP or Mini DSP HD. After some more research, I saw that Mr Pass had designed a DIY kit for an analog version of the LX Mini crossover and not only did people say it sounds better than the Mini DSP HD, but it’s also cheaper and honestly sounded like more fun than just buying that!

While waiting for some 3D printed parts I decided to order the kit and go to town 🙂

Since the chassis and extras set has been OOS on the DIYAudio store, I had to source those on my own which honestly was enjoyable!

For this project I needed to learn how to solder, being a member at a local makerspace I was able to attend a soldering class which was great to learn the basics. So not only is this my first completed DIY audio project, it’s also my first actual soldering project and overall I had a blast putting it together!

The kit was very straightforward and very doable for a beginner in my opinion

I can’t lie the JFETs were a bit of a pain though since they need to be decently high off the board, the wires going into the centre of the RCA jacks were also a pain to actually attach with solder for some reason….

If I could change anything, I probably would have measured and lined up my rear panel better… I used a drill press to get the holes in there for the power and RCA jacks and they aren’t straight at all 😂 First time for everything! Could have also been me not lining up the drill press properly, all in all not much of an issue though as it still works and it’s just for my own personal use (and you’ll never see that side on my stand)

Sadly I can’t test it as I still haven’t actually finished the LX Minis… so I’m hoping it works right off the bat. I did test it out on my current Kef speakers and they do output audio properly (one set of RCAs being the lows and one being the highs) and the LED lights up so here’s hoping it works properly when i

Ive attached a bunch of pics of the final product + of my progress along the way below! Thanks for reading 🙂

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AudioTek Q10 Mini Integrated Amp

For better and worse, I bought some bits from AudioTek in Taiwan, a vendor that had been pushing lots of stuff on eBay, and through some other channels, too. Lots of issues document with this vendor.

I bought mostly misc. components and some tubes, some of which I received, some I haven't (noted issues with this vendor and I have a couple of pending PayPal claims), but I did buy a Q10 mini stereo integrated amplifier kit (also, very inexpensive; heck, far less than I could ever buy the quality components for, which I could use, if I had to, on other projects).

The intent was to try it for 2-channel TV audio use. AudioTek seems to have disappeared - no longer listed on eBay - and I have no instruction for assembly, setup, and use of this little integrated amp. Much of it I can puzzle together, but some bits I just can't (at least not easily).

Anyone have one of these? A schematic, instructions, etc.?

TIA.

- SJ

Programming QCC3034 BT AMP circuit (first post in wrong spot)

Hi guys, its been a while since i've posted on DIY Audio and it looks different. I'm almost certain i posted in the wrong section, so below is the post i did earlier today under digital line level. Also any Admins could you please delete my original post in this original post

Hi guys, i put this question in here because of this good thread CSR8675 programming guide w. software and tons of CSR info and have in the past edited a few CSR chips, but prefer the QCC3003/3005 boards. Normally ill use my CSR\USB programmer and connect to the board with a Pogo Pin clamp and then change the name of the BT and edit the DSP\EQ settings. Recently i grabbed the QCC3034 board shown in the Aliexpress link
Screenshot 2022-12-18 190847.png


but cannot figure out what the N, P, P, V and G relates to the programmer and if i can use the Unviersal front end and APK tools like you do with the others?

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I would really like some assistance if available as this amp seems to have 8watts per 4 ohm driver where my other QCC3003/5 boards only have 5 (onced boosted to 6.5v)

Crossover instead of Kube on KEF?

Hi.
A crossover instead of the Kube? Hmm.
I have a pair of KEF 107 - driven by the danish LA Audio mono tube amps. I am not quite happy with the Kube though, muds up the perspective and sound, so I mostly play without it. If you want superb clarity, pure 3d sound (but 'lack' of deep mid/bass) leave the Kube! A sofisticated bit of electronics, but it is filled with lots of ICs etc. A pitty as the 107s are very capable in the lower area.
I know very well the KEF 107 should not run without the Kube but in the long run I prefer the extreme fine sound and perspective from the pure 107s.

Has anyone tried to build or rebuild a crossover to replace the Kube? There has been a lot of discussions about these Kubes through the years. Maybe AndrewJ, former ingeneer of the Kubes, can answer whether it is adviceable or not. Lennart Andersen, former owner and guru from LA Audio, intend to build a pair of crossovers - or change the existing ones, but before that any info here would be appreciated.

By the way - look up Lennart Andersens new site: www.triodes.dk, with some exciting, new tube amps - named 'Audio Design by Lennart Andersen'. Still the champ...

IR range/wide area extender

Hi guys,

I have a setup with separate monoblocks with an IR receiver. The issue I have is that sometimes the IR command is picked up by one monobloc but not by the other, because they are not in the same space (10 ft apart). So I am looking for an IR 'blaster', something that receives my IR command and re-broadcasts it over a wider area and/or with more power.
These things are surprisingly hard to find; most 'range extenders' have small wired up re-transmitters you can place inside a cupboard to control hidden equipment, but that's NOT what Ineed.

I did find this: BestCon RM4C PRO, which seems to do what I need (plus a lot of other stuff I don't need) but I am not sure.
If you look at the right-most icon below the 1st picture here: https://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/374227163614?hash=item5721ad59de:g:zckAAOSwqUljBvWB&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4KJPmsWn7z4g4+0iSQEWoZLZpP21wDN1uIY7lR/foNARd/oa//tO6QXHqV6FfNDikbtzgu2BDIWQukTk7MB/nx1P2d9OnyO6rfzqiwwtwjkfiOu5U3oUwSaUIyETQHkynMAEKkNyhsPJY42/PR0LF5JGzaq9zupd32UjPpk4/WwJ0daHwl+2FsfupIN7J1Te1Z6FswL4gyUYpmWk4RjLjQEjXLWhBTlK8Yad8Vp9aPbSOIHEWu+uX1wFo9/y59iZ0i00Rk+5Nh1fVeGZym7eU7bo3Z0OnGFw1alo/cIlv9d5|tkp:BFBM6JCS7-tg
it looks like it also accepts IR commands and re-transmit it. The user guide is, as usual, not helpful at all.

Does any of you have this unit, or used it, and can educate me?

Jan

Ultimate spud amp - any ideas ?

Hi all,
I have built some nice fairly specialist amps over the last few years and I have some designs which I am really happy with and will be keeping. However they are in the 6-20W range and I recently concluded that my main speakers are only using a tiny amount of that power. I am thinking I could probably get by with between 1-3W and be more than happy.

So I am searching for a really special design for a nice Spud amp.
I have worked with the ECL82 before and have found it to be a really nice sounding tube - so its an option.
Of all the designs out there the Mighty Midget by Peter Millet strikes me as in best conformity with my design philosophy. However all my amps are now direct coupled and I would like to keep to that practice. However compactrons are a bit of a drag since they have to come from America.
I have seen a few single stage PP designs which i like the concept of, but they are not really spuds since they don't use dual triodes or pentodes.
Single stage designs are appealing.
Maybe an experiment in DHT ?

If I do this - Iwould like it to have the potential to better the amps I already have so this is something of a no holds barred though experiment.

Any ideas.

Shoog

BTM334/QCC3034 Programming

Hi All,

I'm playing with BTM334/QCC3034 module widely available on AliExpress
Particularly with this implementation but quite different BTM334 PCBA revision
The board has audio amplifier and BTM334 configured in DAC mode.
Everything works fine as expected, but I need BTM334 configured with I2S interface not DAC.
Finally the module supposed to be connected to ADAU1787 DSP codec.

I ordered BTM334 programmed with I2S interface and while waiting another 3 week for this order
started to play with existing module to see if I can configure it myself over USB.

I found a few topics on this forum explaining some steps how to do that. Many thanks to @German1212 providing valuable directions and links to tools.
Here is where I'm:
I got USB connection to the module, install the drivers, BlueSuite, unlocked access to the chip, able to dump SPI and internal Flash using NvsApp tool and following
QCC30xx USB debugging setup.pdf document from this package Thanks @ErikDIY !
I have Win11 installed on my PC and those document about driver installation listed above do not match 100% with my Qualcomm devices listed.
But NvsApp finally works and I was able to unlock chip.

I'm quite confusing about next steps.
So far, I need to reconfigure the module from DAC to I2S interface. Is it possible to do that by relatively simple ways and which tool I can use for that - QACT?
Or I need to have full ADK installed and deal with software development? What means MDE?

Can anyone have this module BTM334 PCBA revision used with I2S interface and can share *.xuv dump file "as is" to program my module?

Appreciated for the help!

TPA3118 PBTL board producing ticking sound

I've got a tpa3118 pbtl board that I want to use with MH-M18 Bluetooth module (picture in the last) and 3.5mm audio jack input both in mono mode. So I came up with this circuit.
I mixed L/R from both bluetooth and audio jack through 330E resistors and gave them to IN+ of amp selectable through a DPDT switch. (ignore the volume pot RP1 and resistor R5 since I did not connect them).
I planned on using the second pole of dpdt switch to connect audio grounds of bluetooth and audio jack separately to IN- of amp but since my bluetooth module has common ground for audio and power, and my buck convertor (for powering bluetooth) also has common ground for i/p and o/p, so I connected all grounds together and used that second pole of dpdt switch to turn the bluetooth on and off. I suspected that it connecting all grounds can cause come issue but I went on. On the output there is a woofer 4ohm/15W for testing and main power supply is 24v 2A dc smps.

schematic.PNG


On firing everything up, things went normal, music played in both BT and aux mode for sometime. After about a minute or so, music playback stopped and I got constant rhythmic ticks from speaker 1seconds apart.
Disconnected everything and just connected power and speaker to the amp (nothing on input) and got the same ticking sound.
Going through various forums, I suspect that the 3118 is going in some protection mode for some reason. Also, the board seems to follow the layout mentioned in the datasheet of tpa3118 shown below.
sch.PNG


On checking this board with a continuity tester after this accident, I found that IN-, OUT- and PWR- are all shorted which shouldn't be as per the layout above. Maybe that is why the amp is going in protection mode.

I am hoping that since it is going in protection mode, there should be a way of fixing this issue. Need help on that.
Also need a guidance on how should I connect Bluetooth having common gnd to amp and power supply keeping gnds separate.

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Audioquest RCA Interconnects - Sydney / Diamondback / Coral

I have 6 pairs of Audioquest RCA Interconnects:

1 Meter Pair of Sydney - $89 USD
0.6 Meter Pair of Sydney $79 USD


Sydney Features:
  • Direct-Silver Plated Pure "Purple-Copper" Plugs
  • Polyethylene Air-Tube Insulation
  • Carbon-Based 3-Layer Noise-Dissipation System (NDS)
  • Perfect Surface Copper +
  • Solid Core Conductors


1 Meter Pair of Diamondback (Original Version) - $69 USD
0.5 Meter Pair of Diamondback (2nd Version - Deeper Blue & Contoured RCA Plug) - $59 USD
0.5 Meter Pair of Diamondback (Original Version) - $49 USD


Diamondback Features:
Perfect Surface Copper
Double Balanced
Solid Core Conductors
Foam Polyethylene Insulation


1 Meter Pair of Coral - $49 USD

Coral Features:
Perfect Surface Copper
Solid Core Conductors
Foam Polyethylene Insulation

Take them all with FREE Insured Shipping for 349.00 USD to US / Canada

Otherwise individual purchases at asking price will include Free shipping

Will TRADE for a pair of Tang Band W8-1772 Fullrange Drivers straight-up

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Emotiva Opinions

Hello, just looking For opinions on Emotiva amplifiers. I’m looking at a BasX A2 and a BasX A2M to power some active bookshelf speakers. My luck hasn’t been so great with Emotiva, a few years ago I bought an XPA-5 and it died within a month, they sent me a new one at no cost but that one kept going into protection at least once or twice every time I used it. I am still using that it now but it’s annoying having to get up to power cycle it, and I didn’t want to pay more than $100 to have it shipped back to them. So my question is is it just a coincidence that I had two bad units in a row, or is this a known issue? The only reason I am considering Emotiva again is because they have mostly favorable reviews and good power to price performance.

I need at least 150 watts rms at 8 or 2 ohms since the woofers are dual 4 ohms. Is there anything else in the price range that has good sound quality and is reliable? I was also looking at Schiit Vidar 2 but the price will add up quick since I will need one for the woofers and one for the tweeters, and the power will be cut in half to 100 watts since the speakers are 8 ohm

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Modern Cartridge and Stylus for Rheem Califone turntables.

I have here a mid 60's Rheem Califone Director -ll Model 15V tube turntable/PA amplifier. It's a hardy piece in excellent working order. The needle needs to be replaced. Instead, I was thinking of an upgrade to maybe an Ortofon, Audio Technica, Sumiko etc. If anyone knows about this stuff, please help me. I'd be very grateful.20220811_194838.jpg

Dirac Live 2.0 on a miniDSP. First thoughts.

I have been on a recent mission to improve the sound of a living room hifi.

I'd previously had a set of home built KEF Calinda type speakers that I'd been running via a behringer ultradrive xover and a the power amps from a NAD home cinema set up. It was loud, lively, musical but unsubtle. Terrible soundstaging and uneven bass.

Several iterations of kit later I have a pair of ATC SCM11s, an home bulit Avondale power amp and an Audiolab 8200q preamp. Still htough, the kit sounded brash on some recordings and muffled on others. Despite the huge changes to my amps and speakers, these chararteristics have been common to all setups. So, I figure, it's the room?

Fair bet it is since the setup is textbook bad. The speakers sit against the end wall but with one in a corner and the other in the middle of the wall. Both are 'too close' to the wall even for sealed cabs. However, we have the space we have and that is where they need to sit.

So, preamble over, I bought a DRC24, UMIK1 and Dirac license from miniDSP (incredible shipping BTW, 3 days from HongKong!). It's installed in the tapeloop of the preamp so can be easily switched in/out.

I've run a single set of 13 room measurementswith fairly rough/ready mic placement and tried out four target curves. The results?

Really intersting. All recordings now sound really good. Or, at least as good as you can expect a given recording to sound (rubbish in, rubbish out and all that). Certainly, all the 'cliche' test tracks sound tremendous.

No boominess in the bass, totally consistent with no nasty resonances. A bizare 'scoop' in the bass responce from 80Hz to 150Hz is gone (I've measured this on all speakers I've tried in this room/loaction). More interesting (to me at least) is that a fatiguing 'harshness' in the upper mid band is just gone. No apparent loss of clarrity, just less tiring to listen to (especially when turned up).

The surprise was the sound staging. The speakers have vanished and, for good recordings, there is far more space around the lead instruments. It feels a bit like a surround sound feature has been added but this is absolutely not a feature of DIRAC. Apparently it simply comes from improve time allignment in all the drivers.

So, I'm a fan? I think so. There are some downsides though:

1. The miniDSP itself is not really HiFi. Stick it in bypass and you switch it in/out of the signal path in your amp and you will clearly hear it's presence. Using my turntabhle as a signal source, the tone is significantly changed. It almost allmost feels a bit 'smoothed out' (bearing in mind this is bypass so straight through the ADC - DAC and out). It's not unpleasant but there is info being lost. Basically, it has a sonic signature of its own.

2. On some true golden recordings (you know, the ones you can somehow play on any system and sound good) the DIRAC Live is too much. It can somehow suck a bit of the life out of the recording. I guess this is the case where the recording is so good that it can tolerate or maybe even 'enjoy' a bit of 'room interaction' without becoming unpleasant. Miles davis 'a kind o blue' would be a good example of this.

On balance though, I'd have to say that the gains out weight the losses. Sure, it is not a purist setup, info is definitely lost. But, unless you have perfect listenting room, the sonic impact of these losses pail into insignificance compared to the sonic imperfections imparted by the room.

In short, it's a keeper for me. For the rare recording that doesn't get on with it, I can always switch the miniDSP back out. Only thing I would change is that I wish i'd known about it earlier so I could have bough a preamp with DIRAC built in (NAD C658 for example) instead of having a preamp, riaa_preamp, streamer and miniDSP.

Hope that review is useful to someone.

Cheers,

iep

Shunt Cascode Driver meets UNSET for Push-Pull

Hi,

I would like to propose you this design for a KT88 push pull amp.
The phase inverter is two Rod Coleman's Shunt Cascode Driver with a CCS on the cathodes of the two triodes, whilst the power amp is the Pmosfet cathode-driven 22% anode-grid local feedback configuration already used by TubeLab_com for his UNSET, plus 23% UL.

I attach here the schematic in jpg and LTSpice format.
I already have the output transformers, and that would be the only limit.

attachment.php


Any comment is really appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Roberto

Attachments

I miscalculated the driver hole diameter, will it hold (photo)?

I'm making TL cabinets for Alpair 10.3. I routed holes according to the spec which says 139mm. When I tried to test fit the driver and pre drill mounting holes I realised that there is too little of meat left and I could've safely make driver holes smaller in diameter. And It's too late to redo it. I'm using 18mm MDF with 10mm cutout to fit drivers flush. Any ideas how to strengthen this area? My first idea is to put blobs of thick Poxipol epoxy under screws and redrill. Or glue pieces of 6mm MDF with the same compound.

IMG_20221216_230717.jpeg

TPS7A4700 low noise LDO regulator PCB

Hi folks,

I have busy lately and I have built some PCBs with TPS7A4700 regulator. This is a low noise regulator with output capable of 1A.

Specs
Input voltage range: 2.2V to 25V AC, 3V to 36V DC
Output voltage range: 1.4V to 20.5V DC
Output voltage noise: 4uVrms (10Hz, 100kHz)
Dropout voltage: 350mV at 1A
Output current: 1A (with sifficent heatsink)

More details
-Output voltage is configurable via solder jumpers
-Sensing pins for better performance, DUAL PCB has sensing for positive voltage only, SINGLE PCB has sensing for positive and negative voltage, if not used they can be bridged to output via solder jumpers
-DUAL PCB can be easily configured to operate in symmetrical or single voltage output (solder jumper), transformer with dual secondary windings is a must when you use symmetrical output
-SINGLE PCB can have better capacitor in sensing circuit, there is space for 5mm lead spacing capacitor (for example: Wima 1uF/63V PET)
-DUAL PCB uses bridge rectifier, SINGLE PCB uses rectifying diodes to convert AC voltage to DC voltage.
-user can fit 0805 LED diode and dedicated resistor to indicate working state of regulator

PCB size & colour
-DUAL PCB: 77mm x 37mm
-SINGLE PCB: 75mm x 26mm
-all PCBs are in black colour

What is in the offer?
TPS7A4700 single voltage output 21€

What do you get for the price
Single PCB with smt components soldered on 1pcs
SBYV27 rectifying diode 4pcs
Epcos 1uF/63V PET capacitor 1pcs
Screw PCB connector 2pcs
attached aluminum block 1pcs (works as heatsink or heatbridge)
M3 nuts 4pcs
standoffs 4pcs
Panasonic FR capacitor 1pcs

Shipping & fees, payment
Priority shipping worldwide for one PCB is 3€,for each additional PCB you'll have to add 1€. I accept only PAYPAL, fees are included in the price. You'll receive invoice for what you are buying.

Price calculation examples:
1PCS single PCB + shipping = 24€
2PCS single PCB + shipping = 46€
3PCS single PCB + shipping = 68€
...etc
Best Regards,
Ales

UPDATE: 27.2.2015 Added more components to the offer,updated price and shipping.

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Info on TAD 2402 clone needed

Dear TAD enthusiasts,
sorry in advance for the long and highly specialized post. I am in the process of building the TAD 2402 clones and I am putting together info on the xover. A couple of points that are confusing to me when looking at the french melaudia site, the hand drawn schematic by jeanphilippe and the posts by Marco Gea. I want to make sure I get the details right and I would appreciate any help.
I am afraid to post schematics here but these are readily available on the aforementioned site under the 'Filtres TAD/Kinoshita pour TSM et TSM like' thread. Of course I could post my questions there as well but I am trying to keep all my eggs in the diyaudio basket. 🙂

1) Marco Gea revises the schematic saying that L1 = 2.7mH but the hand drawn by jeanphilippe says L1 = 3.4mH.
What do you guys think?

2)I have seen people mention different kinds of HF attenuators. There are even two different schematics, one printed and the other by jeanphilippe one showing a 2 pin connection the hand drawn showing a 3 pin connection. I see mention of constant impedance attenuators and I was recommended the fostex attenuator. That's a transformer based one with primary and secondary so 4 pins. That seems different from the printed schematic that has only 1input and 1output. The transformer R100T2 based should be connected as shown here:

https://www.fostex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/FOSTEX_R80B_R82B_R100T2_OM_OL_A4.pdf

Does it mean that the following RLC section should be connected on the secondary downstream of the attenuator?

To keep it all in the Matsumoto family, I bought a pair of Pioneer AT 8S attenuators hopefully they are fine for the application.
Kind Regards,

Amplifying and digitalizing dynamic microphone signal using cheap boards from China.

Hi,
I want to buy boards from china for cheap, to not spend at least $50 on interface for dynamic microphone which is XM8500.
I know I need to buy AMP and ADC, but IDK what output power should the AMP have.
Here's few things I've found (I was looking for headphone and microphone AMPs, so they don't have a lot of power, but IDK how much is required for ADC, I thought is should be something around this)
AMP:

LM386 2x NE5532 NE5532 or AD828 MAX4410

ADC:

PCM1808 ADS1015 or ADS1115 ADS1115

Can any of those be reasonably paired?​

Thank you for answers in advance.

Replacing Old Signal Relays

Quick question regarding low voltage signal relays, do they degrade just sitting around new and unused? I have several NEC MR62 24V which in my case are the exact replacement model (nice for aesthetic reasons) there is a stamp on them 47/7 that makes me think 47th week of 2007 (or maybe 1997 or 1987) if that's what the numbers mean then they're at least 15ys/o.

It’s for an Onix OA21 hifi amplifier, input channel switching not speaker protection, I’ve read it’s a good idea to replace relays after about 20 years as the contacts weaken and corrode, the builder actually posted on DIYA that they should be replaced when doing a full service. Specs state contacts are gold over silver alloy and it's potted and sealed so I don't really see how they would corrode just sitting around even after many years, on the other hand the springs and coils inside might just be seized up or corroded. It's a very hard PCB to pull out IOW this is something I only want to do once while I'm recapping it.

A new set of equivalent Omrons would cost me $10 so not a big deal but I really hate to not use stuff I have on hand plus aesthetically it would look right, the NEC's are pink 🙂

DIY tonearm project going commercial

A decade ago I rescued a couple of Garrard 301s heading towards a skip. I didn't think the SME 3009 arms on them competed with my Ekos 2, and the decks sat fallow for many years. When lockdown came I decided to solve this problem.

It was my intention to try to make an arm better than my Ekos 2, and I targeted the bearing as the weakest part of that arm's design (as I suspect it may be in all gimble/ball-bearing arms), and also the most difficult to diy, so I designed an arm with a very low tech but nearly ideal new kind of bearing.

Prototype 1 sounded so much better than my Ekos that I spent many months refining the design and I applied for a patent on the novel bearing.

It has been a steady learning curve going from this...

prototype1.jpg


...to this...
4arms.jpg


...and this:
blackbird.rear.profile.jpg


Serial number 2 is now in use by an audio blogger in Canada, and this is what he has said about it:
Of the former, similarly excellent results. On my first pressing of Pentangle’s debut — a disc I have listened to a million times — I have NEVER heard Jacqui's vocals sound so clean and present. A truly moving, spine-tingling experience.
Dave Holland’s Conference of Birds is brilliant, wide, clear, with superb textures on bowed instruments, an absolute audio thrill. Low’s C’mon sounds bigger and more dramatic than ever.
I’ve noticed that my system is also sounding better at all volume levels — I don’t feel like I need to get it as loud to get into the “thrill zone.” But this is probably just another way of saying “it sounds better".
Even with much experimentation to come, I can say with total confidence that my system has clearly never sounded better. This is a stunning arm!
His deck is a Sondek and he normally uses a Tiger Paw Javelin.

Please ask if you have any questions about this project.

Web site: supatrac
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