My first tuby

After lurking dozens of years here on diyaudio , I decided to build my own riaa tube preamps.
After retirement I recently picked up an old hobby, tubes and amps, combined with a renewed interest in playing vinyl , I acquired some pcb's on aliexpress. One board was based on the Mofi riaa mm/mc preamp, two dual opamps opa1652, two voltage regulators for symmetric psu ,+18V and -18V, and the split active low boost - passive high roll-off riaa network, ready in no time, and sounded quite nice, no hum, noise or other inconveniences, but not very satisfying to listen to.
After some reading on the internet, I got interested in some tube based riaa preamps, in particular the ear384 which seems a shunt feedback design, the Joe Tritschler split passive high - shunt fb active low boost design with unobtainable tubes , and the JL Hood , originally solid state but translated to tubes-mosfet hybrid by me, split series feedback low boost and shunt fb high roll-off design. To that end I acquired two pcb's from aliexpress, one designed for the ear384 design and one for the shure M65 preamp. I wasn't very impressed with the sound of the Mofi ear384, it seemed to have more than twice the voltage output at 20kHz than at 20Hz. Measured with an inverse riaa filter , modelled after the design on Rod Elliot's webpages, with the 1k gain setting resistor altered to 590R , much closer to the original 604R from this design, with all inverse riaa components selected to be within 0.1% of the target values, this fed by a GFG-8015 function generator. So I changed that to the tube-mosfet hybrid JL Hood design:
JL Hood RIAA tubes.png

A few errors , the 43R from the shunt feedback network is connected after the 3.3uF capacitor and the 590R isn't there.
This was a lot better to my ears. Allso measurements with the inverse riaa filter seemed to indicate a much better riaa conformance , with deviations <0.2dB , and a slight roll of at 20kHz, depending on the actual value of the 81.5pF capacitor. The CCS loading the ecc83 is made out of a J112 jfet and a cpc3960 depletion mode mosfet with ca 1mA current. The active low boost riaa feedback network is targeted at around 4mA current. The capacitor parallel to the source resistor can be made into a rudimentary rumble filter. The 6J52P pentode can be anything , ef184 e280f e180f e186f e810f or 6j11p. This my not very tidy test model:
IMG_20240805_095701.jpg

Two gas discharge tubes for ca. 289V stabilized HT and a LM317 for a stabilized 12.6V , the two 6J52P tubes here used run heaters in series, just like the single ecc83. Riaa componenets are selected to match between left and right channel. Because of the feedback design tube matching on gain is less relevant and left and rigt outputs match very nicely.
I allso read much regard for a completely passive design, so I used the shure M65 board to make a complete passive design:
RIAA passive with jfet.jpg

Again a hybrid design , with a 2sk117 jfet cascading into a 6BK7A triode , here cascoding the jfet and the triode would give higher gain, but I wanted to have a line level output voltage. Output is buffered by the ccs loaded mosfet source follower, whereafter the passive riaa network, the values shown gave me the best riaa conformance, though official calculations give sligtly different values. The second triode is ccs loaded with the "mu?" output used as the output. The 825R for the cathode, unbypassed, is to limit output voltage , a LM385Z-adj. would yield more gain, but I wanted to keep the output at approx. line level. This amp allso sounded very nice , though somewhat softer in tone , but absolute no listening fatigue, so much so I have to reconsider playing records because the cost of good needles is pretty inflating my household budget. This is the modified shur M65 pcb:
IMG_20240805_095715.jpg

I couldn't decide which was the better of the above two designs, or the solid state mofi design. I find the tube designs more interesting to listen to, I think mainly because of the looks, with solid state there ain't much to look at, and , despite what people might say, looks count for the listening experience.
To listen to the tube riaa preamps , I allso decided to build an integrated power tube amp, consisting of the standard PP power amp, a tube based tone control, and a builtin riaa preamp.
IMG_20240805_095734.jpg

It's based om el86/6p43p tubes , with a 6BK7A based LTP phase splitter ,ccs in the tail to the -50V ,and a shared ecc83 input tube for L and R channels. The tone control is based on the ecc832 , the AU halve is used as the CF input with the AX halve serving as the actual tone control triode, baxandall type, so no gain in mid position. Both loaded with ccs's made of a J112 and a CPC3960, 4mA for the AU and 1.2mA for the AX , wherev the "mu" output is used for connecting to the power amp input. The riaa preamp is based on the Joe Tritschler passive -active shunt fb design, but with ecc83 tubes, a 2sk208 cascading into the the ecc83 as input, that is ccs loaded with 1.2mA , with the mu output loaded with the passive riaa high roll-of. It's cathode held at fixed voltage by two LM385Z-5 vref's that need only 10 micro A to work properly, and with 1Ohm dynamic resitance no capacitor for AC is needed. The second triode halve , allso ccs loaded with 1.2mA functions as the low boost shunt feedback amp and output to the volume pot. This riaa preamp allso sounds very good, albeit not as "clean" as the other two. The whole amp is fed by a smps , supposedly 300Watt, I got cheap from aliexpress. It's advertised to deliver 300V/600mA, 12.6V/?A , 6.3V/?A and -50V/100mA . Actual output voltages weren't that good. The 6.3V has it's own switcher to make the 6.3V from the 12.6V output. It gave under load only 5.9V and I had to change the feedback resistor value to the switcher to a slightly higher value, it's now 6.23V which seems close enough. The 12.6V was only 12.18V, after allso changing the feedback resitor to the calculated necessary value I got 12.54V , close enough, which allso brought the HT output from 278V to 283V, still quite some lower than the advertised 300V , but since I was using el86 tubes in standerd UL PP design, it was more than enough. Loaded with 5k OPT's , it delivers 18Watts per channel , constant tone test.
The amplifier has no appreciable hum or noise when line level inputs are selected and volume max with ear against speaker cone, but considerable hum when one of the riaa preamps is selected. The seperate riaa preamps have transformer psu's and sound more open than the built-in riaa preamp, but all have equal loud hum with volume at max. Might the smps be the reason for the less open sounding built-in riaa preamp ? I do see a lot of HF dirt on the several supply lines, in the 100kHz till 1MHz range. After changing the power supply input capacitor from the low quality 150uF 400V type to a brand quality 390uF 450V it was less, but still. From scope readings it seems to operate around the 115kHz region and is of the LLC resonant type. The output supply lines have no inductors , like you see in computer psu's. What would be usable types for this frequency and application? The tone control and power amp don't seem to suffer that much from the smps, but I have the idea the riaa preamp has. The tone control and riaa tubes are HT fed by a voltage regulator that brings down the 283V HT to 253V. I tried shielding the smps but that didn't had much effect. Allso, a signicant 50Hz ripple is present on the supply lines , as I understood from reading several papers, caused by the capacitor between the groundplanes of the power input and the supply output. Is there a preferred way of grounding this contraption. I now have a earthed power entry with HF filter to supress HF bleeding into the powerlines and at the supply side a bus ground connected to the power earth entry. Power ground is o.c. not connected. to any of earth or supply ground , except for the capacitor between the power ground and supply ground, which is there for safety reasons as I could make up of reading of the appropriate papers.
And the hum, how could I get most of the hum removed, when I connect the record player through the mofi solid state preamp, no hum at all, when I use one of the 3 tube riaa preamps lots of hum. I have to say that at the normal listening levels of the volume knob , there is no hum noticeable in listening position, only a bit with ear against speaker.
In the end I would say that all riaa preamps, when built to standards sound the same, with the fully active a bit more snappy and the fully passive a bit more airy , and the in-betweens , well , in between. The solid state preamp has no hum or noise issues whatsover, but is uninspiring and a bit flat sounding, probably mainly it doesn't look that good. The tube based riaa preamp are hummy at max volume, couldn't figure out where that comes from, grounding is exactly the same as with the solid state preamp. Noise is allso not a preblem for the tube preamps, though the smps fed riaa preamp seems to suffer a bit in cleanliness, hard to tell. I will at one point replace the smps with a transformer based psu, see how that goes. I am not sure if I hear that right, but smps seems to compress the audio a bit, but than again, might be completely subjective, knowing what you listen to might make you hear things that aren't there. Anyways, all the riaa preamps seem to perform quite well. The mofi ear384 and the shure M65 , the original designs for two of the pcb's I had bought sounded dreadful and very fatiguing, not recommended. I think I like the fully passive design best for acoustic/classical music and the JL Hood active series - active shunt design best for the electrified classic blues, blues-rock etc. music I like to listen to. Any comments on the designs would be appreciated. I am no electronics engineer so there might be a lot to comment on, all designs are cobbled together from bits and pieces I found lurking throught diyudio and the internet in general.
Thanks for reading this travel log into tubesland.
Systux

Life after Frugel-Horn Mk3

After completing and enjoying the Frugel Horn mk3 speakers I'm looking for a new project as my son has claimed them for his new apartment. I must thank everybody involved with design of this great floor standers. First listen was away from the rear wall and sounded far too sharp in the mid range but after some moving around wow, very nice. Bass very good but not over powering even close to wall, top end detailed but not sharp. My son felt the same and now they are gone 🙄.
Looking at the Frugel Horn XL as I believe these will have a smother and richer mid range but without bass overload hopefully. The Sibelis clone looks interesting but without driver cabinet match. Any recommendations on the next build and possible performance compared against the FH mk3.

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Audio garage sale. Fane 15'' fullrange drivers in mint condition (FC152F01-TC)

Originally purchased an OEM pair of Fane FC1502F01 from Thomman music in Germany. Still ub original box and moved on with different DIY projects. The pair is in absolute mint condition!! So many projects. Too little time

Selling price is 50 USD + Shipping cost via Paypal to local 48 CONUS
Spec is here:
https://www.fane-international.com/downloads/Fane-FC152F01-DS280417.pdf
There's a whole thread from DIYaudio forum talking about this speaker build
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/308652-15-range-fane.html





I live in San Diego, CA so local pick up is more than welcome to save shipping cost.
This sale is only for US local. No international shipping.
Thanks,
IMG_9765

IMG_9766

IMG_9769 (1)

IMG_9776

IMG_9859

IMG_9860

The ultimate OTL6080

Hi All,

I've been off for a while : no time, not much money to devote to... 🙁

My last Audio Hi-Fi build I posted was The ULTIMATE 300B :

19102109190725019416472725.jpg


In the same vein (same format, same chassis) I am building the prototype of what should be (one day) The ULTIMATE OTL6080 :

General layout of what should be a mono block :

u26kJb-P1090409.jpg


Amp section prototype only, for tests and qualification purposes, same disposition as layout :

4GMpJb-U-OTL680-proto-amp-section.jpg


I have to build the PSU prototype now, in the days to come.

Wait and See ! 😉

A+!

Adding a remote control to the SPL Volume 2 preamp

Hello everybody!!

A SPL Volume 2 preamp is coming my way, and I'll be looking into adding remote controlled volume to it.

Looking around, there's this kind of motorized volume control kits: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802832503035.html

They seem relatively straight-forward, but there's not much space inside the SPL preamp for adding the control kit to it:

1723383681355.png



At any rate, would you think this approach is feasible?

TIA!! 🙂

Peavey Bandit 112 Red Stripe issues

Hi guys.
I just got a Peavey Bandit Red Sripe (1995 or later) for repair. I received only the amp without speaker encosure.
Acording to the customer, it suddenly stopped working, only a very faint sound is comming out of the speaker.
I checked the power amp and it had an open diode (SZ-13886). I replaced it with a 1N4007 and the power amp works.
The preamp section only works after messing whith all controls and switches, and then wacking it a few times...
Once it starts working, it sounds just like expected.
It has the notorious "IC" brand e-caps in it. None of them looks bulged or otherwise suspicious, though.
I suspect a cold solder joint or in the worst case a broken trace. This preamp pcb has traces on both sides. But it also could be related to an electrolytic cap.
Any ideas what might be going on?

Class A SE amplifier

Here is my diy amp, front and inside 🙂

Just resently replaced bad mosfet, and installed copper heat spreader.

Now mosfet run about 70-80° celsius.

Maybe future i change thermal paste with thermal grizzly carbonaut pads.

Under the copper plate is 3* sot 247 ceramis insulators.

Copper plate is 30*70mm and 5mm, originally used power bar for transformer or something similar electric usage.

Classical point to point wiring and crimping vs soldering here and there.

Parts are someone else made, i only but them in practical use, but i think it always be like that, when you talk about diy setup more or less 😀

What do you think of the setup?

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NE2H Neon indicator resistors

Hi all,

I hope this is the right forum.

I'm repairing our oven which has neon lamps for indicating oven on and thermostat on/off.

The power indicator which comes on with the oven popped (literally) so as I have new neons in my stuff I thought I'd just replace the broken one. However, when I pulled the lamp and extracted it from its housing, it had what appears to be a 1/8w resistor in parallel with the neon pigtails. There was no resistor in series UNLESS it completely vapourised (the unit is very blackened and this actually could have happened as it tripped the RCD).

The resistor measures 47-ish K but is pretty burned so may be out of spec.

Power for this lamp comes straight from an open mechanical switch for the oven so there is nothing hidden.

Can anyone shed light on why there's a resistor across the neon? I did search and could only find reference to this being a thing for inductive loads to stop the neon glowing when switched off.

What do you reckon?

Cheers

Stuey

(BTW the original part is very difficult to source, hence the DIY).

Low-Noise 5V-1A Wall Wart Recommendations?

My use case is a 3 meter looped lighting strip behind my audio rack, and a second use would be an HDMI audio converter. I have an analog setup on the rack and I’d like to avoid it picking up the switching frequency and sidebands.

I have been looking at the Motorola R410510, a rather bigger linear supply, but welcome other suggestions too. I’m uncertain how much noise those little iPhone USB/type C wall warts produce.

Wire and connectors embedded in resin - how to remove? Martin Logan Prodigy

One of the connectors that connect the panel to the electronics of my Martin Logan Prodigy has failed. This is a known issue at ML but they no longer have the connector available.

Does anyone have any ideas how I can remove that resin-like substance that the wires are embedded in? I would like to remove that to access the bare wires/connectors to fix the bad connection.

1717387069272.png
1717387086666.png


Or better yet, if anyone knows where I can get a new one that would be amazing. The connector is called Pulse-lok from Alden. Unfortunately ML says it is no longer available.

1717387183615.png

Amp volume issues

Greetings,

I have a weird one I wouldnt mind a few pointers on. This is a class D sub plate amp. It works, except the output volume is extremely, extremely low. This came out of a higher end deathtech tower speaker, no schematics or SM to be found anywhere.

The plate amp is split into 2 boards. One is the pre-amp (Filter, PWM generator), and the 2nd is the amp.

The fault occurs on high level speaker or LFE inputs. In order to get any volume, the pre-amp level has to be cranked to full. I definitely have an adequete source level going in and going higher makes no difference. The PWM signal leaving the pre amp looks nice at 38khz and there is clearly modulation ocurring.

Looking to rule out bad capacitors, I completely recapped both boards (and we definitely had some bad caps failing ESR tests). Unfortunately, no change in behavior. Maybe a bit more stable PWM signal out of the pre-amp.

Pre Amp: The voltages seem stable, but the OP amp + - rails aren't balanced; positive 13.4V and negative 15V or so. I checked around and the consensus seemed to be that having perfectly balanced rails isn't a huge deal. OK. Is that right?

Amp: I discovered a large patch of highly conductive circuit glue underneath the input connector. This encompassed several opto isolators and transistors. I carefully removed the glue and cleaned the board. No change. I'm considering the possibility of foobared optos, so will be changing those out in the coming days.

I'll see about posting the 38khz PWM signal for y'all to review.

In the mean time, what else could be going on here? Open to all ideas and suggestions. Thanks in advance!

Why OB driver decoupling?

I've seen a number of open baffle builds that hang drivers, or attach them to flexible mounts to decouple them from the vibrations of other drivers. The LX521 uses a stand to decouple the subwoofer frame from the rest.

I have not found any measurements to show how useful this is. Does anyone have some measurements to show the difference this decoupling creates?
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Mute Circuit Class 4 clone

I have a CT Sounds 2000.1 class 4 clone. I Need some help with the mute circuit. This one is staying high on Pin 3 of the driver board.

I have working driverboard I swapped in with the same results.

Driverboard has a njm4560, lm219, and mmhc74m which all have been replaced.

Inductor has been replaced. Original was cooked.

Power section and audio section had failed in this originally.

Drivers and mosfets replaced in both sections.

Optocouplers were replaced.

all 3 of the 5v regulators are within tolerance.

driving an 80hz square to the driveboard i can see on pin 1.

I was able to verify the drive in the output section before I put the rectifiers in.


Driverboard voltages:
1. -.848v
2. .07v
3. 10.22v
4. -11.40v
5. 11.40v
6. .154v
7. .154v
8. .06v
9. 5.04
10. .300v
11. .300v

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TPA31xx custom design questions

Hello everyone,

This is my first audio project. Last few days I have been putting together a schematic as well as a BOM for a TPA3128D2 based class D amplifier. Most of the design is taken from the TPA3128D2 datasheet "Typical Application" at page 23 and TPA3116D2 EVM User's Guide (Rev. B) "TPS3116D2EVM Schematic" at page 5 as it is the same as TPA3128D2 Evaluation Module, but includes the schematic and the PCB layers are more readable. I have also included the anti-pop from 360customs and volume control that follows wiring shown in the attached image. The materials of different capacitors are determined by what I gathered from reading through different forum posts.

I am attaching my unfinished schematic. I have multiple questions regarding the design, but I am going to address them one by one in different posts in this thread. What I want to open this discussion with is whether the EMI C-RC snubber (see attached image) is necessary and what is the advantage of including one. Is the advantage audible?

To give you more insight the power supply used is 24V 6.5A, gain is set to 26dB and the speakers are a pair of older 35W 4ohm Pioneer S-P170's.

For the initial post this I believe should suffice, I would like to keep it concise so that it does not deter one from reading the post. Thank you to everyone for reading and responding.

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DIY spherical ESL

Moving this from the thread on DIY spherical speakers...

For those who haven't seen the previous posts, I am looking at using a 3D printer to produce a "spherical" ESL with 12 drivers about 200 mm in diameter each arranged on the surface of a truncated dodecahedron. The printed parts will serve as structural elements as well as the stator supports for wire screen stators unless I can find a cheap source of perforated sheet metal discs. Diaphragms will be 6 um polyester with Licron coating.

The diaphragm side of the printed parts will print on the printer's bed so they will be smooth and flat. My printer has a 300x300 mm cast aluminum tooling plate bed with a layer of PEI. I am planning to use ABS to print the actual speaker parts and will solvent weld them together using acetone. I have printed some 100 mm stator pieces and a gluing jig to test the accuracy of the printer.

Today I redesigned and printed the gluing jig for the smaller test build before I commit to the full size speaker build, and welded one hemisphere together. I used ethyl acetate (sold as MEK substitute) to solvent weld the 3D printed PETG parts together. As I was gluing it occurred to me that the jig may not be necessary- strategically placed binder clips might do the job just fine. It takes just a tiny drop of the solvent and the joint is secure in a less than a minute.

When I set the glued up assembly down on a flat table all the surfaces on the bottom of the assembly touch the table so I think the printer is producing the prints with accurate angles. The surfaces that are welded looked like they were parallel to each other. I will print the other 6 individual stator pieces and glue them together and see how the two assemblies line up. Then it will be on to more of the design work for the actual drivers.

Note- the print quality is less than ideal- I have a 1mm nozzle on the machine so retraction doesn't work worth a damn resulting in blobby defects. I'll probably switch to a smaller nozzle where I can use retraction effectively for the final prints.

This is a truncated dodecahedron:

Screenshot 2024-07-24 204142.jpg



Three of the outer stators pieces (red) in the gluing jig (blue). The orange piece is one of the inner stator pieces:

Screenshot 2024-07-24 202943.jpg



Here is a hemisphere made from the small, test-sized outer stator pieces:

hemisphere.jpg


It will be interesting to see if the diaphragm tension causes the stator pieces to flex out of shape. I'll probably add some supports for the wire screen to the inner and outer stator pieces, as well as some means to add dust covers to each driver using the same 6um film as the diaphragms. I still have to work out details of the electrical connections.

aleph 0 biasing

Hi Folks,

Got Aleph 0 from a friend to overlook. Figured out it needs dc re-adjusting and rebiasing. For DC offset it is quite clear, the right pot does the thing. But I am feeling a bit lost with biasing. I understand the left pot is setting the bias, but what is the best way to measure? Points and values, if you don't hesitate.

Thanks in advance.


IMG-3560.jpg


IMG-3561.jpg

NAD C 525BEE strange skipping...possibly solved

Hi!

Another NAD-issue here but hopefully solved by now. I guess skipping is more or less strange (and annoying) when it happens.

However, this one didn't make any sense due to the following:
- The C 525BEE quickly handled all my (troublesome) CD/CD-R/CD-RW's without any issues plus is remarkable resistent to movement during playback...not
at all like a player that struggles to read due to a weak laser...

And now the issue, many longer CD's (>=40min) started to skip towards the end.

Well, I opened the little bugger and while everything looked very nice:
PXL_20240818_175216065.MP.jpg

However, after using it for a while I noticed the following little "collision" between the white flat ribbon and the black AC wires from the transformer. (Fixed in these photos).
The "collision" took place at the red markup below:
PXL_20240818_173358686.MP~2.jpg

After moving the AC wires away they are never close to each other anymore and haven't heard a skip since then.

Could this really have been the root cause for the skipping - I hope so anyway and I'm a happy NAD CD listener now 🙂

/Per
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Musical Fidelity F16 problem/Schematic

HI All
Little problem with a Musical Fidelity F16 power amp.Keeps coming through distorted on one side and occasionally completely cuts out.Takes a while to happen suggesting temp related but if you raise the input level it cures it possibly suggesting a dodgy capacitor somewhere.Have checked for dry joints.Also does anyone have a schematic for the above.Musical Fidelity will not sell me one.Thanks for any help.Smiffy

Low Budget 2 way speaker

Hi everyone, it's good to be here!

I'm planning to start my next speaker-building project. After building two pairs of full-range speakers (Dayton and Fostex), I would like to move on to a two-way bookshelf speaker.

I'm looking for recommendations on parts combinations for a two-way speaker with a budget of 650-800 euros for all parts (drivers and crossover).

It would be great if the recommendations are based on your experience and if you could suggest a ready-made or kit crossover.

I'll try to specify my requirements to help get accurate recommendations:

1. Room Size: I plan to build these speakers for a small room, around 25 m², so I guess they're near-field speakers.

2. Enclosure Size: I would like to limit the size of the speakers to 40x60 cm.

3. Materials: I think it will be easier with plywood, though I would like to try solid wood such as oak, ash, or walnut, and possibly 3D-printed parts if a horn or port is needed.

Thank you, and have a nice day!

Avi

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Whammy Amp builder with quick question

Hi everyone,

I'm an absolute beginner that is nearly done my first build of any kind and I'm realizing that I'm missing a 2.2k resistor, no doubt I lost it myself. Can I replace it with any 2.2k resistor? Does it need to be 'audio grade', or also Dale to match all the others? If I can use a different brand, should I de-solder the one that's already in so that they match?

Thanks so much, this has been so much fun. I'm also very nervous(excited) to see the end result.

Appreciate getting a peek into your community and your expertise.

Project Ryu - DIY Field Coil Loudspeaker

Hello,

***First i want to say I'm not sure if i should post this under Fullrange or Multiway. Since at this point, there is a high posibility of the need for a supertweeter i chose Multiway forums. I won't mind tho if moderators think it's more suited for Fullrange forums.

About 6 months ago, i started thinking about a DIY fieldcoil speaker. I know opinions vary quite a lot on this matter and so i will do my best to offer as much data as possible for things to be judged objectively. Since that time I have been talking with some fellow countrymen and audio enthusiasts about this project and these conversations helped me in making some of the design decisions. The work is still in progress and i hope your opinions and comments can help tune it to higher performance.

To begin, here are the basic aspects about this project:

- field coil underhung motor structure
- 12" diameter
- Wide range (up to 10kHz), hopefully fullrange (up to 20kHz)
- high efficiency
- to be used in BLH

My personal taste in sound is that i like it when it comes out of large radiating surfaces. Large SD, large horn mouths etc. I think it's a necesity when one tries to reach real, live music levels and at the same time keep a good response to instruments' attack, sustain and decay. This is the reason i chose 12 inch diameter. I would've liked 15" better but it would've been too difficult to make it wide range. Perphaps a future project.

Field Coil Motor Structure:

I have spent a lot of time looking for other field coil projects, for any information on FC design or about available products and i have to say there isn't

much out there. From the pictures of opened FC units i could see a basic shape of the pole pieces. I have to say this is amongst the first design issues i encountered, there isn't much freedom to design these pole pieces, not like the case with permanent magnets anyway.
The next thing one can notice is that the new FCs are low impedance type and this is easily understandable. I have decided that my field coil will also work with 12-15V supply.
Underhung design means thick top plate. Of course this will cause a drop in flux density in the gap. The compromise here i found to be between flux density value and voice coil excursion. Since this speaker will mostly be used horn loaded i sacrificied Xmax to make a thinner top plate. I use standard 1010 steel with a maximum of 0.13% carbon, the best i could get my hands on.
I ran simmulations in FEMM for different values of top plate thickness, FC's number of turns, dimension, wire diameter etc. Here are the results i stopped at:

- magnetic gap height: 12mm
- magnetic gap width: 1-1.5mm
- 5.3 ohm FC 1400 turns of 1.25mm copper wire

Below you can find a rather crude sketch of motor structure:

FC_Structure01.jpg


Here are some results from FEMM analysis:

I ran simmulations with 1010 steel as well as 416 steel (has slightly more carbon typical 0.15%) to see the differences.

FC_Field_h_C_2_2_Amp.jpg

FC_Field_LC_2_2_Amp.jpg


1010 Steel Curve over 20mm and 12mm:

FC_B_LC_2_2_Amp_20mm.jpg

FC_B_LC_2_2_Amp_12mm.jpg


416 Steel Curve over 20mm and 12mm: (actually the curves are smoother had to lower resolution a bit because of my computer)

FC_B_h_C_2_2_Amp_20mm.jpg

FC_B_h_C_2_2_Amp_12mm.jpg


Magnetic gap:

FC_Field_gap_LC_2_2_Amp.jpg


AS it is, at 2.2 Amps we have 25W for the FC. I don't expect to have too much trouble with heat at this power. Test will tell tho, depending on how well the metal does the job of sinking the heat. The value predicted by FEMM lies around 1.6 Tesla. In reality i believe this value will be smaller 1.4-1.5 T. In tests i will drive the FC with 3 amps and see how much it heats up.

In this design the gap width is 1.5mm. Somewhat large, I'm thinking to add a 0.5mm thick copper ring right in the gap (yellow part from picture below). Now
it's true i have never seen a picture with a FC unit having a faraday ring and I'm not sure if it's necesary. I guess the FC itself has a role in that too.

Gap_faraday.jpg


I'm also making a 1mm gap variant (without copper ring) in hopes to get more flux density. The FEMM simmulation shows:

FC_1mm_gap.jpg

FC_1mm_gap_B_high_res.jpg


Here are some parts of the magnetic structure after machining:

DSC02849.jpg

DSC02854.jpg

DSC02857.jpg

DSC02858.jpg

DSC02863.jpg

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LM4766 vs LM3886 vs "textbook Class D"

after a long discussion and a few simulations i realised that going for an ic is the best idea in terms of cost and sound quality.
i realised that the lm4766 may not be that bad of an option considering its simmilar price to the 3886 and the fact that it haves two channels at good enough power out.
im geniuenly intrested in how it(lm4776) compares to class d amplifiers, discrete designs and the lm3886.

Technics SA-GX230 Receiver - Tuner not working

Hi,

I was looking for a bit of advice. I have the above receiver where everything works except for the tuner part.

It has an AM and FM section, with both sides just producing white noise. On occasion with the AM (on medium wave) selected I can hear a faint radio station.

I have attached the block diagram and schematic - the service manual is easily downloaded, with the 9MB being better quality.

My thinking is there is a problem with the circuit where both AM and FM come together, and that there is probably no issue with alignment or the oscillators as they both have different ones. I am slightly optimistic that at least the AM is picking up something as I can hear a very faint station in amongst the hiss and crackle. So I think at least one of the front ends must work.

I think both FM and AM first come together on IC201 (AN7273A) - FM/AM IF AMP, DET and AM mixer. AM comes in on pin 3 and FM on pin 1. The output is on pin 13. If I put a 1V 1KHz sinewave on pin 13, I hear the tone amongst the noise, so I assume everything after IC201 is ok. I am wondering if the IC is the problem ? Is there any way to test if that is the case ? I tried bridging pins 1 and 3 to 13 with a 0.3uF capacitor but got nothing, but then the signal would not be 'processed' or amplified. I have got an old analogue scope, which does not pick up much on pins 1 and 3, I am not sure what frequency or what voltage I would expect.

I can pick up a AN7273 (not sure if an 'A' or not) on ebay for £5, but it would be nice to prove the chip is the problem first, or investigate other things on the PCB.

The voltages coming in (15.5V and 5.5V) are there.

This is the first tuner I have attempted to repair, so have spent the last week reading round the subject, but am now looking for a bit of advice from the more experienced.

Cheers !

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Electronics work bench tips and ideas

I finally decided to rent a work space, I have a really comfortable desk to software stuff sorted.

I want to buy a bench for electronics prototyping and figure out a good method for storing a few components. I need space of a scope, spectrum analyser, cables, hot air and solder station etc.

At the moment everything is stored in boxes, depending what I am doing, I take out what I need and put it away again.

I’d rather leave things out and have it looking neat.

Any advice welcomed!

Please post photos of your bench if it’s something I can buy. I’m UK based, so that might limit my options!

Tinkerer doing down the rabbit hole

I knew I should have avoided looking at DIYPerks - Building EXCEPTIONAL speakers using MODERN TECHNIQUES

but....

Here I am a week later, after spending most of my free time digging into the DIY Audio world.

I am located in Malaysia (but originally from Europe) since a few years now. I have always like DIY (Arduino, 3D printing, Raspberry, etc...) but I have never look into audio.
After getting a good deal for an OLED TV, I want now to match the audio to the picture quality (Current audio is a pair of Edifier 1280DB) !

I am particularly interested in a wireless home-theater system and I will post my findings so far in the dedicated section just after this post.

Cheers,

JBC CD-1BQF Soldering Station T245 Handle

Excellent condition JBC CD-1BQF Soldering station with T245 handle, no issues. Just upgrade to a multitool station so no longer needed. I will include a SMD hot air rework tool as well.

$300 USD

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Weird wiring in Musical Fidelity phono preamp sections

Hi,

does anyone know what the two wires in the Musical Fidelity A1, B200, and other amps from that perdiod are supposed to be for?
If I am not completely mistaken, the cut track is just reconnected with one of them, and the other wire is just in parallel to another (uncut) track.
This is the 2nd amp I see this "in person" on now and searching the net for pics of open A1s etc. shows this is "normal".

The tracks are both coming from the MM/MC switch.

Any reasonable explanation?

Thanks,
Mo

front.jpg
back.jpg

Help with ZK-TB21

Hi, i have a problem to disable this bluetooth thing... but i don't find any kind of solution for this...
I have try to disable the BT antenna and nothing happens.... this problem is sh**** because my neighbor is always connecting to it. And i can't hear anything from my PC (Connected via AUX)

Board is a ZK-TB21 (2.1 Channel Power Amp)
Chip is a JL AS208P08912-25A4

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What are your ESL transformer requirements?

Hello everybody,

I am planning to make a wire stator full range ESL.
Planned width 198mm, height 1600mm, distance between stator and film 2mm.
I'm also thinking about segmentation using "esl_seg_ui".

I made a full-range ESL using Perforated metal in the past.
I used a 2x50VA 6V/230V power supply toroidal transformer and it didn't produce much bass.
I think the culprit is the step-up transformer.

What are the requirements for a transformer that can be used for a full range?
Required core cross-sectional area. What is the number of turns on the primary side? , what is the required turns ratio? , the gauge of the primary and secondary coils?

It was written in detail in the following URL, but there was something I didn't understand.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-bass-transformer-for-esls.186011/

What value is "E" in the following formula?
Bmax = E x 10^8 / (4.44 x f x N x A)

Bmax = Peak AC flux density in core (Gauss)
f = frequency
N = number of primary turns
A = core area cm^2

The following transformer specifications seem to be suitable for full range.
The cross-sectional area of the core varies in size between inches and centimeters. Is it my reading problem?
which one is correct?
Soundlab A-1 bass transformer: step-up ratio(200:1)
EI transformer with core = 4.5 in^2 = 29 cm^2
Primary winding = 120 turns
Secondary winding = 24,000 turns

thank you.
(I am using Google Translate)

laboratory audio headphones

Hi everyone .
I would like to buy new headphones, or at a good price on the used market, it depends on the price.
the characteristics must be maximum transparency and no coloring, assuming it exists with these characteristics. practically a laboratory headset to be used to carry out experiments and modifications on the casings.
all this because I want to make an auditory comparison between a neutral sound transmitted by the headphones (which in my opinion are suitable for this purpose. Otherwise I wouldn't know what to use) and the one that comes out of the casing from the speaker (K12 prototype).
the aim is to understand what the defects of the K12 (cabinet) are in order to eliminate or limit them as much as possible to obtain maximum sound quality.
if the headphones also work as a soundproofer to protect my ears I get another important function, so I can use it when I sweep with REW.
I don't know if headphones with these characteristics can also be used to listen to music.
I use a laptop connected to the E-MU 0404 USB sound card.
The card has a headphone output, is it possible to use that directly?
the one below is a link inserted by me and is related to the same topic:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...strengths-and-weaknesses.412726/#post-7694471
I will also follow the other advice received but the first and simplest step is the headphones.
bye thank you .

  • Article Article
Reducing the noise out of my IEMs

I have an aged pair of IEMs from around 18 years ago - Shure e5s. I've barely used them as I found the coupling to my ears to be insanely sensitive to getting a tight seal - even a slight gap results in almost no bass response. They also have cables that wrap over the tops of the ears which make them more than averagely fiddly to fit. The rather unusual characteristic they have is that their sensitivity is extreme at 122dBSPL/mW - at their impedance of 110ohms this puts the 0dB point (threshold of hearing) at 0.26uV. From browsing Amir's reviews of headphone amps over on ASR I found precisely none to be low enough in noise so that its residual hiss is certain to be inaudible through the e5s. Which would mean a noise at output of below 260nV. The nearest seems to be the Topping A90 for which Amir records a 50mV referenced SNR of 93dB. Meaning its output noise is 1.1uV. That is at least 12dB too noisy.

Looking into more modern IEM designs I see the trend is towards lower impedances which make the HPs even more sensitive in voltage terms. I don't know if any reach over 130dB/V (the math gives me nearly 132dB for the e5s) but there are some mentioned here that go over 120dB/V so they too are too sensitive for the lowest noise recorded in ASR for a HP amp. What's a sensitive IEM user to do when no extant amps are going to deliver him/her a noise-free listening experience?

Clearly an output attenuator is called for, in order though to avoid adding more noise a resistive one would be less preferable than a transformer. With a big enough step-down ratio in hand I could drive the Shures directly from my Dark LED I/V, bypassing the need of an amp altogether. 10:1 step down would mean the output noise could be up to 2.6uV and as far as I recall, the Dark LED's output noise is lower than this when fed current from PCM58s. The PCM58 being about the lowest noise R2R DAC chip going. The Dark's maximum output level is 2VRMS which, through the trafo would send the e5s 200mV hence a peak SPL of 118dB. Should be sufficient.
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Sony knobs

Hi guys So I gèet this sony str 7025 fixed it up to original glory
I took front off to clean display dial and knobs and switches
Any road put them knobs back on but there not as tight as before what do you good folk do don't wans be sprizing them 2 prongs apart don't wana snap um what's your thought on this problem yeh and I wana be able to take um off again at somepoint int future
Cheers
Mike

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VSSA Lateral Mosfet Amplifier (lazycat) with EXICON

VSSA AMPLIFIER WITH EXICON LATERAL MOSFET


PCB is available

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Safety Practices, General and Ultra-High Voltage

I want to live. :hbeat:

In the interest of safety, I would like to collect whatever safety tips and practices this forum kindly and experienced members will share, so that all may benefit. :grouphug:

First, some warnings and disclaimers:
  • Any voltage can be deadly. :hot: :RIP:
  • Amplifiers are dangerous--each person (me included) is responsible for deciding if they are willing to risk their life, and for ensuring that whatever information they receive is correct
  • This forum and its members accept no responsibility for any death, injury or property damage that result from any of these suggestions--your safety is your own responsibility.

And please note that I have *no* amplifier hardware on hand, and will not for a while. This is a discussion only, and I will only be talking about doing stupid things, not actually doing them.

Okay, with that out of the way, I would like any tube equipment electrical safety advice you care to share, both in general, and for what I will classify (for the purposes of this discussion) as UltraHighVoltage--1000V to 1500V.

I'll start with what I think I know, and you can add more or correct me if I am wrong.

I can think of two basic rules of thumb--
  • Make sure any charge-storing devices remain discharged while working on the equipment
  • Avoid creating a circuit which would pass current through the heart.

From those rules of thumb, I can think of these specific practices:

  1. Put a drain load across all significant charge-storage devices (e.g. B+), and leave them there for the duration of your work--some devices can redevelop voltage if left unloaded.
  2. Verify that all charge-storing devices are discharged before starting work.
  3. Always work with only one hand--keep the other hand in your pocket.
  4. Use hook probe for secure connections and to avoid shorts.
  5. Wear rubber gloves and rubber soled shoes--no bare feet or socks.
  6. Make sure your design has the chassis safety grounded--connected to the ground wire of the power plug.
    [/list=1]

    Okay, what do you think about these practices, and what can you add?

    One member spoke of a "bench isolating transformer". What is that, what does it do, and how is it installed/used?

    Also, what extra design and usage practices apply to UltraHighVoltage (1000V to 1500V) electronics? I'm thinking about things like component choices, test procedures (standard DMMs are only rated to 600V), design practices (danger of arcing), etc.

    Thanks for your attention and advice. Although I hope for courtesy, I'd rather be flamed figuratively than literally. :hot: 😉

    Best,

    George Ferguson

B&C 15NDL88 Woofers, new in box, 2 available

The 15NDL88 is B&C's best wideband 15" woofer. Smooth response all the way up to 3 kHz(!), shorting ring in the motor, high motor strength relative to moving mass, 98 dB efficiency, 700 watts RMS, 8mm xmax. And arguably a perfect balance of parameters for a high-end, high-output two-way system. Purchased for a project that will have to wait for another day. Two woofers available, both new-in-the-box. Asking 300 each.
51ync3mkB5L.jpg

IMG_20240723_215024.jpg

Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide

I think I may have stumbled upon the first practical all passive crossover for the Harsch XO topology, which provides a quasi-transient perfect response for a 2-way speaker. Normally the Harsch XO is only implemented in DSP because the delays required are too large to be practical.

I received my Purifi PTT6.5 woofers a few days ago as part of the GB organized by Norman Tracy. I have been thinking about what kind of speaker to make with this special driver. I was going to use either a ribbon tweeter, or fullrange and make it into a FAST with a low crossover around 1kHz. However, I have a speaker box that has been languishing for a few years since I could never finish it. I happened to have a 0.57 cu ft cabinet that I made for an RS180P and a WG300 waveguide fitted with an RS28F dome tweeter. The cabinet also was fitted with dual 6.5in passive radiators from Dayton. As a lazy person's first test, I pulled the RS180P and dropped the PTT6.5 in and it was nearly a perfect drop-in fit. The PTT6.5 OD on the bezel was just a couple of mm smaller than the RS180P. Continuing on the lazy trend, I connected the existing XO for the RS180P and an RS28F.
845056d1589770673-exploring-purifi-woofer-speaker-builds-6100bdd6-aaf4-4470-889e-622292257e6b-jpeg


845057d1589770675-exploring-purifi-woofer-speaker-builds-d47f0fc1-3f3b-4a65-9ae1-0287c33765c7-jpeg


Surprisingly, it sounded very very good considering it's a totally different driver and 4ohms vs 8ohms. This got me motivated to really crank out a new speaker crossover to hear what this driver can do. So I setup my microphone (UMIK-1 calibrated by Cross Spectrum Labs), REW, and my new TPA3255 reference Class D amp with PFFB. Probably the only amp I have at present that can drive 4ohms (good for up to 300w+). Here is a photo of the test setup:
845667d1589957776-purifi-ptt6-5w04-01a-woofer-buy-01-ptt6-5-rs28f-harsch-xo-setup-measurement-jpg


I began by measuring their T/S parameters with a DATS. Everything looked great and the values were within factory specs for Qts, fs, and SPL. Here is the DATS measurement:
845034d1589763913-purifi-ptt6-5w04-01a-woofer-buy-purifi-ptt6-5-ts-params-xrk971-jpg


The drivers were almost perfectly matched too - very unusual to have two drivers with an impedance curve that is near identical.

I took some frequency response FRD data with just the woofer, the tweeter, and both combined in order to figure out the acoustic center offset via acoustic interferometry to be done in Xsim. Here is a plot showing the predicted combined raw driver response with the simulated one for a 19mm offset of the tweeter relative to the woofer:
845668d1589957776-purifi-ptt6-5w04-01a-woofer-buy-03-ptt6-5-rs28f-driver-acoustic-offset-jpg


This was measured with the mic along the woofer axis (I plan to put the woofer on top and tweeter on the bottom to get a little extra time of flight delay for the tweeter while still keeping the front baffle flat), I get a 19mm offset of the tweeter and waveguide based on the interferogram match of the simulated and actual combined measurement. This is the same technique that I used on the 10F/RS225 FAST speaker in order to get time alignment. It works here even though the crossover curves are not anywhere near 1st order, but closer to what is seen on a Harsch XO with a steep 4th order low pass on the woofer and less steep 2rd order high pass on the tweeter. Furthermore, since the Purifi PTT6.5 driver has such a nice flat response out to nearly 4khz, I was able to run a high XO point of about 3.6kHz, which corresponds to a time of flight delay distance of 47.5mm (1.87in). By using the woofer as the main acoustic axis, we are able to approximately delay the tweeter by a little extra due to triangulation.

In Xsim, I modeled the following very simple crossover using only 2 inductors, 2 capacitors, and four resistors (the prototype uses multiple values from my XO development kit to build up the desired values), was able to achieve a very Harsch-like textbook XO profile. Here is the crossover schematic, as-built:
845669d1589958585-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-04-ptt6-5-rs28f-harsch-xo-simulation-schematic-v01ab-jpg


Here is a photo of the prototype crossover as implemented using my XO development kit:
845670d1589958585-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-05-ptt6-5-rs28f-harsch-xo-prototype-v01ab-jpg


Here is the predicted frequency response plot for this crossover:
845671d1589958585-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-06-ptt6-5-rs28f-harsch-xo-simulation-freq-jpg


Here is the predicted impedance plot for this crossover:
845672d1589958585-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-07-ptt6-5-rs28f-harsch-xo-simulation-impedance-jpg


Here is the measured frequency response for 1/24th octave smoothing. Note the tell-tale dip in the system response relative to the woofer only response just to left of the crossover frequency. This is a classic sign that the Harsch XO was set up correctly.
845673d1589958585-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-08-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg-harsch-xo-freq-24th-octave-jpg


The other tell-tale sign that it is a Harsch is that there is about a 55 deg phase shift bump from the nominal, and here we see a fairly flat phase response from 100Hz to 10KHz with an approximate 55 deg rise.
845674d1589958585-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-09-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg-harsch-xo-phase-jpg


And finally, the clearest indication that this crossover is quasi transient perfect is the fact that the step response looks like a right triangle. Without this feature, the advantages of a transient perfect crossover are lost.
845675d1589958585-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-10-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg-harsch-xo-impulse-jpg


Here is the distortion associated with these measurements and although I am not using the suggested Purifi passive radiators, there is still a fairly low level of harmonic distortion.
845676d1589958582-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-11-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg-harsch-xo-distortion-jpg


From the measurements, we can also see that the measured group delay (GD) is excellent – under 5 milliseconds down to about 45Hz.
845677d1589958585-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-12-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg-harsch-xo-groupdelay-jpg


Edit May 21, 2020: New Polar Data (approx angles but distance of 0.5m is correct, mic on woofer axis as designed):
845955d1590034502-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-rs28f-woofer-axis-polar-data-0-5m-2vrms-jpg


So what we have here is sort of like the elusive missing Chalice of XO’s: a simple quasi-transient perfect higher order XO capable of rendering clean, crisp attack notes while remaining easy to implement in a flat baffle speaker with commercially available drivers and woofers. The PTT6.5 is what makes this speaker possible.
844715d1589662361-purifi-ptt6-5w04-01a-woofer-buy-d5f786c3-b586-431e-a059-0b87ca25e89e-jpeg

844716d1589662361-purifi-ptt6-5w04-01a-woofer-buy-261bdbe9-9843-413f-b76b-3639b1595645-jpeg


How does it sound? I only have it in mono, but it sounds Excellent: great balance and clarity, nice midrange weight and slam, super highs and a wide sweetspot and excellent imaging provided by the waveguide! I really am impressed by how clean it sounds, and the tweeter is working where it is mostly designed for. This leaves the woofer to handle the midbass, where it loves to operate. The bass with the dual Dayton PR’s still needs work, but this is where I think a TL is going to really do a nice job.

Here is a video of this speaker playing a song that really exercises the passive radiators. I will need to make a proper TL speaker to keep the high efficiency and low distortion bass output as these passive radiators I had were running out of xmax already.

Edit May 26, 2020: Plans for TL here
847691d159051982832-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-tl-render-blique-v01-jpg


Waveguide adapter plate STL file here:
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide

Here is response of TL predicted by Akabak, max SPL is 101dB at 21Vrms (exceeds thermal limit), and SPL at Xdamage is 104dB:
847088d1590350218-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-tl-design-freq-1-5in-vent-2-83v-jpg


847739d1590528822-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-tl-assembly-v01-plans-jpg


Here are the plans for just the front baffle to make a version with a removable baffle. Remember to removed the 0.75in from the front on the side view of the main plans if going this route.
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide

Here are CAD files of the TL speaker (STL and STEP):
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide

Final XO board with flat copper foil inductor and Jantzen and Mills resistors:
847366d1590432418-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-pcb-xo-speaker-02-jpg


BOM for XO here:
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide

Here is measured response with new permanent XO PCB vs temporary developmental XO:
847368d1590432418-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-rs28f-woofer-axis-pcb-xo-comapre-jpg


Edit May 29, 2020: The new RST28F-4 tweeter has been tested and verified to work with the WG300 waveguide and this speaker. Requires additional felt spaceer between the WG300 and the RST28F faceplate due to a larger grille diameter.
848429d1590773117-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-rst28f-vs-rs28f-wg300-compare-jpg


Edit June 14, 2020: Revised plans for the TL with corrected cutout dimensions for the drivers. This plan utilizes a removable front baffle which will simplify installation of the XO board, padding and stuffing. Moreover, it allows you to change the tweeter at a later time. The box can be flipped with the tweeter on top for a conventional LR2/LR4 crossover if desired.
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide

852879d1592159336-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-tl-v02-sheet-3-jpg


852878d1592159336-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-tl-v02-sheet-2-jpg


EditJune 28, 2020: The completed TL speaker in BB ply for some casual listening in the kitchen:
856179d1593297126-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-cf790e3c-21c3-4918-bb37-81eac893bc89-jpeg


Edit June 29, 2020: Here is the schematic showing the final parts used as shown in the photo of the XO and measurements above:
856668d1593469641-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg300-xo-v02-schematic-final-jpg


Edit Aug. 15, 2020: New revised XO for better tonal balance - more info here:
868139d1597513796-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg300-xo-schematic-jpg


F3 of 39Hz and slight downward tilt in the response:
868142d1597513796-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg300-tl-xo-freq-2vrms-0-5m-jpg


Final XO using Dayton Precision 1% 10W resistors, Jantzen 2.5mH 18ga coil, Dayton 0.5mH 20ga coil, Audyn Q2 22uF MKP for woofer and Dayton Precision 2.2uF MKP 250v 1% for the tweeter. I have a bypass of 0.1uF MKP Dayton as a place holder for a Miflex 0.1uF 600v bypass on the other channel.
869222d1597958531-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg300-xo-build-ch2-jpg


Here is the channel with the Miflex, I will see if I can do an AB in mono one of these days:
869067d1597875523-simple-passive-harsch-xo-using-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-ptt6-5-rs28f-wg300-xo-miflex-dayton-resistors-jpg


Edit Mar 23, 2021: I have developed a floorstanding TL. More info here.
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Repurpose bricked Marantz SA-14?

So, I picked this unit up for next to nothing years ago. Unfortunately, the SACD module is effectively bricked due to it being a first generation version; it will no longer read discs, unless the firmware is updated. In a vain attempt, I did swap laser modules, but it behaves the same way. Spins up, tries to read a disc, the servos sound like mix master mike, then gives up after a few attempts.

Unless someone here has reverse engineered the flashing jig and happens to have the proper ROM file laying around, I want to see what else I can do with this piece. It's a real shame otherwise. Nicely built unit!

I was thinking maybe it could be turned into a USB or optical DAC? Has this already been done? Other ideas...

TIE Brute: open-baffle / horn speakers

Hi, guys. I have been reading DIYaudio for many years and received a lot of useful information and inspiration. For the first time, I decided to write. Sorry for the possible mistakes, my English is not always good.

I want to present my system. It's still in progress, but it's already bringing me a lot of fun and music.
aaf90e3b29da9a714e519d8ea771ab7521330572_2_1380x766.jpeg


Speakes inspired by Reflector audio. I call them TIE Brute, they look like heavy starfighter from Starwars 🙂 All information about the drivers is shown in the picture. As you might guess, an open-baffle + driver in CD horn.

cdc51716c3127e510a52a07f0e36cf2bfbb853f0.jpeg

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After a long period of experiments, I came up with an extremely simple crossover. In short: the Faitals are filtered acoustically by turning out, the compression driver with a 4.7 capacitor gives a shelf response, and then I use digital or analog equalization to the desired frequency response.

This may look not-so-smart and too funky-punky, but it works surprisingly well!

(I didn't save any good measurements, only such shitty ones with all sorts of reflections, in reality, there is no failure at 500 Hz, mic position. But hope, the idea will be clear, and if it is necessary, I can make normal measurements. Funky-punky as I say))).

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At low end 2x 10-inch subwoofers with the added servo (piezo sensor on the driver and feedback board in front of the amplifier). They can not be heard until you turn them off 🙂

And a small video presentation on the phone, of course, the live sound is better, it's just for fun:

Demo - YouTube
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Need help with Giesberts HEXFET AMP

Hi everyone! 😎

I have a project with this amp, i was nearly done with it, but then this problem came out! :bawling:

So i made everything ready and started to test the amp... Everything was fine until i put FETs fuses to the holders and bang.. every IRF9540N and IRF540N shorted and every fuse blew. Then I thought that the problem was gate voltage so I removed the wrecked fets and put multimeter over R24 and R27. I adjusted voltage as low as it´s possible, 2,8V in my amp.

I soldered a new fets in their places and put only 400mA source fuses in holders. Then I turned the amp on. Everything seemed to be under control, so I adjusted gate to source current to 200mA. It was very steady and thought that everything worked fine.

So i shut it down and put the normal 2.5A fuses back to their holders and turned the amp on again. BANG! every fuse blew and the fets were gone.

So I came here to look if someone else have samekind of problems with that amp. I found that someone here have the amp which is working and some have the same problem with their IGBT version.

I don´t have every value of the components just right because couldn´t find those and thought that those would work fine. Powersupply is 100% same as in original. Here is the values that I have used to countervail some components on the apmlifier PCB.

T12 IRF9540N (original IRF9540)
T13 IRF540N (original IRF540)

R6 82.0 ohm 2% (original 84.5 ohm 1%)

C3, C4 2.2nF 63V (original 2.7nF)
C5 470pF styroflex (original 330pF styroflex)
C9 1uF MKS4 100V (original 1uF polypropylene)

Ok I know that C5 should be really close that 330pF but can´t get a right component yet. And isn´t it just affect to maximum frequency of the amp. (so 470pF should decrease the maximum frequency?)

🙄

So if you guys could help me out of this situation i would appreciate that very much! 🙂

I put links to the schematics here:

http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/tom/files/120MOS.gif

http://www.arky.ru/audio/shem/igbt/Sch_delay.gif

http://www.arky.ru/audio/shem/igbt/wiring.gif

http://www.arky.ru/audio/shem/igbt/Sch_supply.gif

Direct drive ribbon amp power requirement?

I'm looking to build a current source amp to direct drive ribbons. I have scanned all of the previous threads from over the years on the topic and haven't found the info I'm looking for.

I want the amp to be powerful enough to drive theoretical "Full range" ribbon speakers. I.E. very big ribbons.
I am pulling my hair out trying to find out how much power I need, I have no clue how power translates into SPL for ribbons and I can't seem to find the answer anywhere.
I can't begin to design such an amp without knowing the required power output.
I have a few design thoughts in my head but I first need the answer to my above question.

Can anyone help me out?

Elektor's "Ulti Amp"

Has anybody tried what at least in the German issue was called the "Ulti Amp"? It was published in 5/95. Measured specs were more than excellent, but I'm interested if anyone can comment on the sound.

The dual transistors used in the two gain stages (2N2914, BFX36) have long been obsolete anyway. I've always wanted to build one (some parts are still in my junkbox), but never proceded as I came across other concepts (current feedback, class A) I found more interesting.

The protection circuit is somewhat special (it shorts the PSU rails via Triacs instead of opening a speaker relay) and can easily be adopted for use in any amplifier.

About circuit design optimization _ a general question

Good morning to Everyone
I immediately apologize for a reasoning that probably will sound inconclusive
I recently discovered the LTSpice program but I couldn't get decent THD vsHz graphs
With the very kind and precious help of Mr Mooly who provided me with the most appropriate settings I began to see some THD graphs and I fell in love with them
I started playing with voltages and values and types of transistors in the most banal circuits in order to reach a lower THD and I saw that the result changes considerably from total non-functioning to rather interesting results.
Now the question that's on my mind.
Looking at the most popular discussions here in the forum I think I'm quite isolated in my curiosity to see the limits of simpler circuits (i.e. low parts count)
I guess that simpler topologies must have intrinsic limits and this makes them not interesting for who wants to reach the very best measurements.
But what are their real limits?
I mean there are a lot of variables already in a simple circuit from the type of parts and values and supply voltages etc.
If optimizing a simple circuit already appears so challenging and demanding what would be optimizing a very complex one (i.e. with many many parts)?
I have seen a discrete opamp with 80 passive and active parts 😵
The number of variables increases dramatically at a level that is pratically impossible to manage.
I have the feeling that people are more challenged about doing something complex than getting the most out of something simple.
like those chefs who don't care about the quality of the raw materials but add tons of different sauces to their recipes that only confuse the sense of taste
Maybe it's my impression
On another hand I was also struck by a review of a preamp some time ago
The reviewer, clearly an electronics expert, believed the circuit quite a bit. In fact, he saw some even trivial flaws in it
Yet that circuit tested on the bench still gave truly remarkable measurements in terms of THD+noise
His explanation was that the results were achieved with an optimization of a circuit that on the paper looks quite simple.
What is your approach on the subject ?
And moreover how do you optimize your designs ?
  • Thank You
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Miro AD1865 DAC

Sold

Spare set of Miro AD1865 DAC for sale. i2s inputs on board.
Circuit design and board info available here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...2s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/page-72#post-6525201
You need a PSU to supply +/-5V and +5V and I2s source for this DAC to function.
A pair of OPA1655 will be supplied for the IV stage. Many members feel that this op amp gives very good and satisfying sound as a simple onboard op amp IV.
However, I recommend that you supply separate +/-12V for the op amps. This can be done easily by breaking jumpers J10, J11, J12 and J13 and feed your psu to the jumper pads.

Price is $100USD, and it covers the registered shipping worldwide from Singapore.

My preferred transaction would be PAYPAL FF.
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WTB Chinese Dual AKM DAC Board

Hello there, i'm wondering if anyone on here has a chinese dual chip AKM dac board with the LCD and controller (either buttons or rotary) from a past or abandoned project. My board is a dual AKM 4490 board (as pictured), but I think the controller is bad. I'd be happy to buy a complete second hand board or just the parts depending on what people have. I understand from reading the forums here that the controllers work across multiple boards with AK4399/4490/4495 and 4497 chips. I know a lot of people were experimenting with these boards a few years ago, so maybe someone has one lying around they might be willing to sell. Thanks in advance!

Multiple I2S sources

Hello

I was designing my first amp and ran in some issues.
My intended block diagram - ADC->Raspberry Pi->amp module with its own DAC
I want to supply the amp module with I2S signal so it doesn't get converted multiple time and lose some quality so RPi in this case must be I2S master.
I also want to add AUX in with ADC so that creates another I2S master source.
Problem with this is that RPi only has one I2S codec so it can communicate with one line (2 channel) I2S.

My question is how to make this thing work.
So far from what I have read I believe that using some kind of analog switch IC or multiplexer would be the way to go with one slight drawback of having a click on switch.
What could be other solutions that I missed out on or how to eliminate the click (syncing master clock of two masters??).

Some other things I came up with: HDMI-I2S converter for extra output, WM8960 I2S codec (but it wouldn't output I2S OR it wouldn't take it as an input so only one way also like RPi itself)
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