Never used and includes side wiring plate.

120V Primary
2x45V Secondary

$375 USD includes shipping within North America.

Good afternoon,

Like the title says, list one channel on my SSE after about 6 years of steady use. It would get quiet and fuzzy on occasion once in awhile, but barely puts out any sound now(have to put ear to speaker to hear anything).

For fun I opened it up and swapped all the wiring on to the output transformers to see if that was the issue, but after switching the wiring to OT’s same channel was still out. Are there any specific areas I should be looking at when I open it up and start testing with the multimeter? Thanks in advance!

Alex

Hi, new member from Sweden, been reading and learning a lot from here during the years, but time to post now 🙂

I am an old cable and satellite service and repair guy, been collecting and restoring vintage hifi for a while now and have for the moment quite a lot of gear in the house. In my main system there are Yamaha C2 preamp and T2 tuner, which feed an M4 power amp, the turntable it's a rebuilt Thorens TD-150, speakers are JBL L166.
Secondary system is Yamaha A1 amp, T1 tuner and Technics SL7 tangential turntable feeding a pair of NS-1000.

Have built some stuff to, a Pearl2 phono amp and a JLH 69 power amp.

So see you around in the forums 🙂

Cheers,
Hans

Hi,

I'm French but live in Italy. I'm in my 40s, always been around HiFi due to my father's obsession with it. Being an electronician by trade, he loved buying broken gear and repairing it, as well as hoarding all the tubes he could find. I never could understand that desire to keep buying with the intention of repairing but never finding the time to do it. This did nonetheless have a lasting influence.

I use a couple of Hiraga Class A Amps along with a Yamaha CA 800 II. One built by my father(8W), the other one built by me (20W). I have 3 pairs of Supravox speakers: 2 TQWT that I built and a Jensen (bought from another DIYer in Italy). I stream my music through a couple of RPI feeding a Cyan2 and a Protodac. I have some knowledge in electronics to be able to follow a schema and solder pretty well but nowhere near being able to understand the fundamentals behind design choices.

I bought Cambridge audio topaz AM5
Power button Light blowed i checked there voltage it shows dc 70v.
It was a small led for power up light why is that much voltage there??? Amplifier works fine but small sound balance only works right side when I increase volume sound comes back to normal both sides what causes this ????

Hello,

I have for sale the pcbs for an improved version of the Mofo and the pcbs for the power supply for it.
This one has better bias control, better high frequency performance, doesn’t need a low output impedance preamp to drive it so you can easily use valve preamps too.
There is another interesting part, the power supply which generates a negative rail through an isolated dcdc converter which gives the posibility to use SITS without worrying about the inductor’s resistance when biasing the transistor.
Both the positive rail and negative rails are filtered giving very low noise.

2x amp pcbs + 2x ps pcbs sold

https://audioxpress.com/article/focus-computation-of-bass-reflex-alignments

And coincidentally i was at AES 1999 in NYNY when they first showed their product and i spent some time talking with the founders. I didthis little web page bit, https://www.t-linespeakers.org/oddsends/ICEPower/index.html on what i saw.

Later they asked me to take it down, they said it was OK when i said it was soley for historical purposes.

dave

Hello

I got a Sonic Frontiers SFD2 MK2. Presently, I'm listening music by Qobuz in my Melco N1z 6T connected to an Aufio gd DI-20 interface with the USB yo SPDIF of an Aqua LaVoce Dac.
I simply love the old SFD2 which was refurbished but I can only listen 16/ 44-48 kHz files
I can't select the sampling rate with the interface,
Question:
If I use a chip like the WM8805 to replace the Ultraanalog SPDIF receiver in the SFD2, will I hear high resolution files with this dac truncated to 44 -48 kHz or the Ultraanalog chips which goes to 48 kHz will not let files over 44-48 kHz play ?

Any other solutions ?

Thanks

Hello dear DIY Audio community,

which fullrange speaker drivers between 5 and 8 inches are your preferred speaker drivers for TQWT applications? And which TQWT variations make the most sense?

Regards Stefan

My MartinLogan Descent amp developed a problem. Everything still "works" but it produces very little volume with minimal excursion of all 3 woofers.

ML says that the amp is dead and they no longer have the part (the entire back plate). Anyone know how to repair this or have suggestions? Here are some pics of the back plate which includes all the electronics and amp, and I've attached the service manual and schematics provided by ML.

This was a really nice sub despite its age, would be a shame to dispose it.

Mint condition, perfect working order. Susumu thin film resistors 0.5%

SOLD


SOLD

Hei
Need little help not sure is my wiring is in righth way, because speakers sound like whistling sound.

I wonder, has anyone tried the Leak 20 to amplify your musical instrument?
Is it good or what?

6V6 power tubes, PP and 6J9P drivers was designed by Doug DeYoung at Bugamps, he was kind enough to give me circuit boards, which saved me from a total point to point build. I designed the layout and grounding. I make my own enclosures. I have a YouTube channel (not monetized) and uploaded a build video.
https://youtube.com/@cytowing3353?si=nd-S5qGDchk2NhHR

Hello from a senior living in Canada. Have plenty of free time so am thinking about building my first ever amp project... the ACA.

I'm studying the active bass equalizer system to be applied for my speaker system. I wonder whether the "B&W Bass Alignment Filter" and "Linkwitz Transform" are the same thing?

From my research, the B&W's, when installed, would alter the order of the bass loading system to a higher order, i.e., when used with the ported speakers, it will shift the original fourth order to sixth order system as explained in its brochure and many reviews. For the Linkwitz Transform circuit, it would delete the original alignment and create a new alignment instead, whilst retain the original number of order, i.e., a closed box with Qtc of 1.0 and Fb of 50Hz could be shifted to Qtc of 0.5 and Fb of 35Hz, STILL, the number of order will remain second order HPF. And for the ported system, it would not shift the order from fourth to sixth but remain the forth order HPF.

Is my understanding correct? In all, should I build the LT circuit myself from the online resources or buy the B&W's module (luckily, it allows user to change settings to suit various speakers as it's claimed itself to be universal use)?

The objective is to extend deep bass response of the closed enclosure speakers.

Dear all
I am running a pair of KH420 in a heavily treated room of 23sqm. They are linearised by a Minidsp shd preamp. IN 2022, I built two vented subs with 60l and used the BMS 12S330 powered with a Crown XLS 2502. The sound is very clean and the bass goes low. However, it's not enough for HT or bass intensive music. Therefore, I am eyeing with 2 BMS 18n862 in a sealed box (>100l) positioned in the two back corners of the room. I could go up in diameter size up to 24" and 300l. Any other suggestions?

Cheers
Dave

Can someone point me towards a write up that can explain how I can measure the SEO of a driver?

I would like to try to physically time align the drivers in my next build.

Thanks.

So Patrick, you say to bias at 2.88 watt, watt is the point. The amp is less than 25% efficient. Wasn't it designed to be 10 watt into the load. You are looking at +40 watt dissipation (per channel), will that not make them run a little hot. You obviously not built or tested one. Here is mine you can see that it was getting very hot to run at specified power. Power supply is external.

Wiill any of these drive Infinity Kappa 8 or Kappa 9 that dip down to 1.2 ohm (K8) and 0.8 (K9) ohm? I see on Youtube those who run Kappa 9. I will run Kappa 8 and I think it does gallantly ... I just can not get together that 2200 on paper only gives 385W in 2 ohms, and 3500 gives 500W, 4 ohms, when they weigh massively, both give 90/120 Ampere, damping factor 1000. Comments are gratefully received! 😀 John Curl ?

(Even my ROTEL RB1080 gives 1000W@1ohm whuch is a lightweight constructions, +200 Ampere, damping factoring 1000)

Hi All,

Hoping you can help me out. Have done a quick search on this but to no avail so here goes.

I have recently been given a pair of Eltax Century 200 floor standing speakers. 3-way ported config. 80w RMS @ 8Ohm.

When i plugged them in i found that both tweeters have blown. 🙁 .... no wonder they were being given away!

Also, one has significantly less bottom end, hmmm. The woofers seem to be okay, as does the capacitor between the top woofer and the tweeter - tested with a multimeter

I'd love your opinion on the following please?

1. Is it worth me sourcing replacement tweeters or would i be better off scavenging them for working parts? No idea if these units are any good or not.

2. Why would i be getting less bass from one of the units?

3. Having pulled the drivers out to inspect, the exiting blown tweeters don't have + or - on the terminals - does it matter which way they are connected (other than potential phase issues - although led to believe this would be nominal for tweeters)

Below is a wiring diagram I've put together (apologies for my poor drawing skills - hope it makes some kind of sense!) - hopefully that will help make some sense of the config / wiring.

S1 & S3 = Woofers
S2 =Tweeter

If any other info would be useful then please let me know - newb to speaker electronics / wiring here 🙂

Look forward to hearing from you, and thanks in advance.

Tim

P.s. Looks like someone had been in there before me so can't vouch for whether the wiring is how it should be
P.p.s I'm usually on the mixing desk, not poking about in stereo speakers so please be gentle and excuse my ignorance 🙂

The idea here is to limit the list to products currently in production and readily available to DIYers.

These are dome tweeters that are sold with a waveguide already attached. (price approximately ascending)

Dayton ND25FW-4

Peerless BC25SC06-04 (for now)

Peerless BC25SC08-04 (for now)

Goldwood GT-520 (according to Matt Grant/MTG Designs this tweeter is terrible)

Sica LP 98.25/245 TW

Wavecor TW013WA01

Scan-speak Discovery H2606/9200

Wavecor TW022WA06

Sica LP 110.28/380 TW

Morel CAT 378

Wavecor TW030WA12/TW030WA11

SB Acoustics SB26STWGC-4

Wavecor TW030WA21/TW030WA22

SEAS Prestige 27TBCD/GB-DXT

Sica LP 90.28/N92 TW

Wavecor TW022WA09/TW022WA10

CSS LD25X-WG https://www.css-audio.com/online-st...-XBL^2-Dome-Tweeter-in-7-Waveguide-p651759238

Satori TW29TXNWG-4

Seas Excel T29X001-04 TPCD

Satori TW29BNWG-4/TW29BNWG-8

Waveguide tweeters with some modification

augerpro/somasonus

Waveguide WG104-XX/25 for the BlieSMa T25B-6, T25D-6, T25S-6 tweeters

Waveguide WG104-XX/34 for BlieSMa T34B-4 (T34D-4) tweeter

TQWT/DTQWT-10/DTQWT-12 mkII T35 option

ReShape Tweeter Waveguide, Acoustic Directivity Adapted to Psychoacoustic Tweeter Waveguide

ATH-DOME T34B waveguide

Heissmann Acoustics

Standalone waveguides which can be bought

Visaton WG 148 R, Visaton WG 220x150

Kartesian Horn_30 (for Kartesian Twt30_vMS)

Kartesian Horn_28 (for Kartesian Twt28_vMS & Kartesian Twt28_vHP)

Please mention any omissions and I'll add them to the list!

Choosing which capacitor value is needed to X out vocal frequencies. Currently I’m using 100V2.2uf and vocals are still coming through 🥺. My amplifiers have full range signals going to my tweeters and I have HP going to the from the head unit. I’d like to change the value of these to take out all vocal frequencies completely, which capacitors should I get? Thank you for reading.

Looking to refurbish a set of newly acquired set of Bose 401 speakers. They are in pretty good shape except for one of the tweeters. Mine are part number 131011. I have seen reference to 146056 as well. I have been searching the web for replacements with not much luck. I'm someone here might be able to help.

Choosing which capacitor value is needed to X out vocal frequencies. Currently I’m using 100V2.2uf and vocals are still coming through 🥺. My amplifiers have full range signals going to my tweeters and I have HP going to the from the head unit. I’d like to change the value of these to take out all vocal frequencies completely, which capacitors should I get? Thank you for reading

I'm building a Tubelab Simple SE and was hoping to get some feedback on the layout. I'm a bit cramped for space (13x13" aluminum chassis, with 1/2" border for fixing to the bottom). Mostly I'm wondering about the placement and orientation of the OTs, PT, and choke. From what I can tell, both the Edcor OT and Hammond PT are vertical wound, so I have them 90 deg to one another. But I'm not totally sure about the choke -- it looks to be horizontally wound, so I'm not sure if it's fine as is, or if it still needs to be rotated 90 deg with respect to the PT.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated. E.g., Should I swap the choke/motor run/PT? Are the OTs too close to each other or to the speaker outs or PCB? Any other drastic changes I should consider? (Note that the choke will be mounted underneath, and the volume and switches will be affixed to the front panel.)

Thanks!

Hello again.

I am designing a breakout board to replace IC205 on my DG-1000 preamp, in order to add a balanced output jack. I am planning on using it add a THAT 1646 balanced line driver in addition to an OP275 (replacing the NE553) driving it. I just wanted people's thoughts on the implementation - I plan on following the suggested circuit schematics on the datasheet for the 1646/1606.

Is this a good implementation of a balanced output for audio equipment?

Thanks in advance for any input.

A long shot I know .
I’m in the uk btw .


Andy

Hi all. I am into making DIY bluetooth seakers, so naturally have been getting various bluetooth or bluetooth enabled boards from aliexpress. I recently found the board that satisfies my every need, BT-201 (and BT-301). It has bluetooth audio channel, data channel, USB and TF card playback. BT-301 has line in and even FM radio. Both have huge AT command set to be used via serial port.

The boards could be flushed with newer firmware easily, that comes in updata.bfu file. The latest virsion I have intalled on the board when purchased is VER2.3-20200927 but I dont know where I can find the download.

Would anyone know where can I get latest documentation .zip (usually contains firmware file in it as well)? I have VER2.3-20191115 file, but it is quite a bit older.

Hello all, do you know where to buy, if exists, a low DCR and high current variable inductor to help in crossover fine tuning? I hate unwind and rewind normal coils, also because they can easily be damaged from this practice, so I'm wondering if exists an inductor where I can simply move the inside core in & out to change the mH value, or at least what can be the best suitable in commerce inductor in which this tweak can be easily done.
Obviously I talk about both low DCR & high mH inductors for low-pass section both medium DCR and low mH value for the high-pass one.
Thank you very much.

I am losing my ability to reason as I approach my 7th decade. Can someone help me to think please? I dug out my room heater project to clean it up a bit for the winter. I built a pair of monoblock 6C33C Push Pull Parallel OTL amps a couple decades ago, and they sound excellent. I originally built it with what I had laying around, the transformer count is high and very heavy. I would like to replace the 6 pound bias supply transformer with a small 25VA-ish toroid. Bias is -60 in relation to 0V, and -60 in relation to -150V. Can I just run 2 bridges off one transformer winding without exceeding some unknown limite? Current schematic (- a pair of output tubes) below..

I bought these on ebay to convert a soic ad797 to dip for a phono stage but the more I look at it the less sense it makes.
These things are double sided to convert soic8 or sop8 to dip.
Am l missing something?
Can someone recommend me adapters that would work?

Searching for some #41 globe tubes. The single I have is labeled Philco but I don't care about the manufacturer. Looking for up to half a dozen or so.

My name is Michael and I have a deep passion for listening to music, and I’ve invested in a PA system to elevate my listening experience. I'm particularly drawn to the bass, as it adds a powerful and immersive element to the music. I love experimenting with my setup to fine-tune the bass, seeking that perfect balance where it’s punchy, clear, and resonant without overpowering the rest of the sound. I'm always exploring new ways to enhance and refine this aspect, whether it's through adjusting the settings, upgrading equipment, or tweaking the acoustics in my space. My goal is to achieve a sound that truly resonates and elevates the overall listening experience

Hopefully in the correct forum.....

I'm going a bit mad trying to trace a problem with what I think is false triggering of the protection circuit on a Pioneer A-400X amp.

There seem to be no apparent problems with DC offset (about 2mV on each channel). After being left switched off for a while the amp will happily work for maybe 40 minutes (with a signal) then the protection kicks in. With no signal the protection kicks in after about 10 minutes from cold but when warm the amp might never come out of protection or will almost immediately go back in to protection after the startup delay. (Is the no signal thing a clue?). There seems to be either a temperature or residual charge element to this perhaps?

However, when the protection kicks in there's no indication why that I can see - no DC offset, overloading didn't happen.

I'm thinking its the protection circuit false triggering and so I removed transistors Q303 and Q304 which I think detect DC offset and also the resistor R308 which connects to each channel's overload detection. That changed nothing and I can't see how!

Am I right in thinking that protection is triggered by either the DC offset detection or overload circuits pulling the base of Q305 low so that it turns on and discharges C305 - that in turn results in the relay being deactivated. Once Q305's base has been pulled low it latches itself on by virtue of its base current through R309?

I've replaced C304 incase that was leaky, Q305 itself and C305 but no effect. With the components named above removed I can't see what is able to switch Q305 on. Once triggered the voltage at C305 cycles varying between about 4 and 18 volts.

The supply voltages on the B+ and B- are both 42.9v of the specified 43.3v and the protection circuit has its own supply bang on at 41.9v (albeit with about 1v of ripple despite having changed its filter cap too).

I can't see how this fault might be caused although D306 and D305 are a bit mysterious to me - some kind of over-voltage protection?

Any ideas? - I can no longer see which components might be responsible!

Notes on the attached circuit diagram - the power for the protection circuit comes via D308. The "bottom" of R311, R316 et al go to ground.

Hi Bob,

i know that J Curl and Leach favor bipolar output transistors as opposed to you favoring mosfets, care to elaborate on this?

again, your circuits seem to be single ended at input and VAS stages, am i correct or do you have any design that is fully complimetary from input to output?

thanks..

This is the high pass filter on my tweeters.

220mH inductor in parallel, and 3.3uF capacitor in series. My research suggests this is a 6000Hz high pass filter.

Is this bobbin type inductor okay for audio applications?

I was looking at some phono stage designs and didn't like the typical asymmetrical stack of paralleled transistors, put in the feedback loop of an op amp.
It seems super unbalanced and would be impractical to get good THD performance at low frequencies since it's all AC coupled.
So to make a simpler circuit I sketched up this overkill one.
It's a symmetrical set of szlyskai pairs; Bases tied together, which is the input.
The supplies of which are fed from a pair of op amps that give negative feedback to the circuit (all DC coupled), and also bias the circuit.
The idea being that the 2 symmetrical pairs balance the bias current. Would the noise from these being in parallel cut down on the noise?

Then there's a synthetic load, which I included in the circuit so I could ask about the noise.
In Self's book he mentioned that he had concerns about the noise from the synthetic load input going back into the signal chain. But wouldn't that cut down on the noise?
If you connect 2 op amp inputs together wouldn't the noise be the result of the sqrt of the 2 noises combined?

Selling one Mean Well DRP-480-24. Price euro 50 + shipping cost.

Hi, wanted a pair of Lundahl opt for my Elekit, new ones are a bit over my budget. Shipping will be to CA-USA/ India.

I thought you guys might enjoy these. I made them as a gift for a friend who always wants to know how stuff works. 😏
Offset driver TL design done in Hornresp, physical design done in Fusion360. The layers were cut on our 80w laser. Alternating layers of 6mm ply and MDF. After gluing, I quickly ran the belt sander over them to end up with a bit of a steampunk look. Drivers are SB12PFCR-4 and Dayton TD20F-4. I used the foam for stuffing since it has very little weight for its volume. It looks a bit funky- one bit on one side and one bit on the other, but it is as calculated in Hornresp. Any more kills the LF and when I tried less, they sounded boxy.

The acrylic sides do vibrate very slightly at high volume, so I’ll readily admit that they are not perfect - but they do sound very very nice. By far the most expensive cabinets I have ever built!

#translam #tl #transmissionline









Ve

Can someone draw a draft of how this can be done? The Power Supply is intended for use with a Texas TPA 3255

Hey guys ! I was hoping for some help trying to pin down some datasheet with any Inductance equations for the a lamination I purchased. I got it from a pretty shady shop with no data on manufacturer , composition or even part number. I have determined the dimensions do line up with the EI-114 type.

It seems to be some form of silicon steel to the eye , although Si% is hard to determine. I would assume somewhere around 4% as that is the most common for purchasable domestic transformers in our country. They have a thickness of ~0.5mm (calculations show somewhere around 0.496mm).

Ultimately what I'm looking for is an equation that will show what N primary turns is needed to get some L Inductance value in the core. For example, from Robert G. Wolpert's book he found a catalog for his lamination with the equation L = .9283 * 10^-8 * K * U ; where K is the stacking factor and U is permeability of core material.

Thank you for the help !

ok here is a few facts and a few questions around the audiolab 8000 a

---First to notice that units in production till 1992 are equipped with 220V trafos so many of these units with now days 230-240 voltage in Europe will produce almost 43 +43 volts after the capacitors and these few 3-5 volts more per rail will eventually stress the amp and coloration of burned pcb will be there

---Also noticed that either after year 1992 trafos are different so with 230Ac produce almost 40 Volt ( or they simply realized that they are stressing the wrong circuit with the wrong ways.)

---the audio lab 8000S is an sziklai or CFP if you like that means that the double VBE multiplier lays on the drivers .

---Let us forget for a minute the weird bias procedure where a tech is requested to remove covers install probes re install covers and adjust the bias 😱😱😱

---Real problem is that the ventilation designed works only for the outputs and the rest of the amp is tight sealed where in the driver area temperature will increase then the Vbe multiplier will drop the bias according to the temperature ....probably over compensate and reduce the bias more than needed .

so Solution 1 will be to almost over bias the amplifier and expect the VBE multiplier to finally adjust something more reasonable when the pcb are will reach the ""operating'' temperature

Drawbacks will be
--that you still going to stress the pcb and parts around the amp
--will take quite a lot of time for the amp to stabilize a temperature
--And don't know why but i still think that there is still going to be some thermal run away

or Solution 2 drill fins or long ventilation halls above the driver area
---Bias the amp to the manual stated bias
---Defuse all the concentrated heat from inside the box
---Allow the Vbe multiplier to adjust the bias only when amp is stressed

i dont see any drawback here ....



opinions please

kind regards
sakis

Hi Guys
Has anyone tried polar & non polar kaisei caps ?
Curious how they sound, not cheap so wondering if they’re worth trying.

Thanks

Test seas h87 1969, disassembled and centered with Arta/Limp and dats v3, for their age they are very good, we are looking for these mid/tweeters for something fullrange alnico, about the same age, I want to build something omnidirectional only with old speakers, for amplifier on lamps.

motosapien said:

I like the looks of the Schiit Urd transport. It is a bit pricey but uses a rare these days high quality all metal cd drive. Cannot find much discussion here about it though. Does it have glaring flaws or something?

Click to expand...

I just discovered the Urd, with its USB Audio output that can feed a USB DAC. Having designed a number of USB devices and hosts, I am familiar with the USB Audio mode where the destination can control the rate of data from the source, and I wonder if there is any combination of Urd + USB DAC that uses this feature.

With USB Audio, if the source happens to be running a little faster or slower than the destination, a low-bandwidth communications channel on the bus allows the USB Host to reduce or increase the number of audio samples in future buffers to keep the source in sync with the destination. This avoids real-time sample rate conversion, and also avoid complicated PLL systems to match the rate of the DAC to the media. Ideally, the USB DAC would run from a high-quality local sample clock, without any PLL circuits to slave to an external clock.

For this USB Audio feature to work, a USB DAC Device would need to implement this mode. There are three audio modes, I recall, so there's no guarantee that a USB Audio Device DAC would necessarily use the best mode. In addition, the Schiit Urd as USB Host would also need to implement this mode, and in particular would need to slow down the CD transport motor, or speed it up, in order to adjust the rate of audio data flow to match the DAC clock.

Does anyone have any idea whether all of the pieces are place for this to work?

Brian

I have a Sonodyne Uranus FM3000 model. Which is the last Sonodyne model before they stop their business initially from India. This machine was unused for several years and now I want to make it back to working condition. Can any one help me by providing Service manual or Schematics?

Thanks in advance.

Not: I may have posted this message to wrong section. If I have done wrong, Admin please put it in right place.

Hi everyone!

I have this amp (Hertz HCP 1D) burned badly under mainboard....few parts missing/melted - also lost copper tracks.

Does anyone have pictures of this amp under board, good guality so maybe I could re-do those tracks 🙂 Or schematic could be even better!

Thank you!

Also coil at speaker output is burned/melted :/

Great amps I just finished, very clear neutral sound. Optimized for 60hz up but sound great full range too.

Pretty dang quiet, I measure .6mvac at speaker terminals

A nice feature is the inclusion of an XLR input. So if you have a balanced out DAC with 4vrms output you can use it still

Изготовлен мной с минимальным количеством конденсаторов. Я считаю, что именно они негативно влияют на звучание. Устройство состоит из 2 блоков - блока питания и самого корректора.

Hi. Hope to tap on the collective experience of all! Tuts

Hi
I am Sankar from India
I owned a second hand Cyrus 3 after 3 and 4 hours the amplifier stops working and the lights on volume control LED glowing randomly and the input selected buttons also all they Lights leds Are glowing I have to disconnect the power and wait for a day and then after waiting for one day period next day it works by luck if not i have to swich on and off repeatedly by luck it works, what is the problem and how to resolve this, i have some electronic basic knowledge, not mucj as microcontroller coding, i am very much love to hear music in cyrus 3, please reply waiting for your valuable reply
Thank you
Sankar

so I want to replace the polypro cap (250V rated) with a one that's rated 160V. I've seen other caps (electrolytic) in the crossover and those are rated 100V so I guess that's ok. right?

thanks

Found these drivers stashed away for years. Does anyone have data sheets for these? Yes I've tried searching (as much as I am able) but to no avail.

MB Quart MCD 19 Tweeter. 19 mm Titanium dome. Sticker on tweeter say: 95-6464, Made in W. Germany 8 ohm.

Peerless 5 inch, 8 ohm mid-woofer, Made in Denmark. Cast basket, paper cone, rubber surround. Cat. no. 831667.

Any info greatly appreciated.


Regards, Steve

The recent discussions in the threads "Return to Vinyl" and "Contactless Vinyl Playback" has answered many questions, yet some things still remain somewhat of a mystery.
To get to know how something works, sometimes it is useful to try to create a model, a model airplane, or a 3D model or drawing. Suggestions to 'add your own tone arm' and members projects have been encouraging.

Images below are taken from screenshots of a 3D model I created for the listening area discussion. The layout is close to what I would like to have in a turntable, simple, block shaped plinth, with a single speed belt drive. There are other discussions, which I will link here, however, few of them have any 3D illustrations and discussions of design.



Significantly, today, June 7, is the birth anniversary of

1843—Susan Elizabeth Blow, American educator who invented kindergarten

https://www.thoughtco.com/today-in-history-june-calendar-1992503

Click to expand...

I have been using TraxMaker (part of Circuit Maker 2000) for over 20 yrs. I recently moved across to KiCAD and am getting to grips with that for all new boards moving forward

However, I still have a lot of boards on TraxMaker but have a problem that has recently emerged. Everything works ok except the DRL files are corrupted and are complete garbage. Has anyone else found this problem? I am unable to import the Gerber files into KiCAD PCB because although the tracks and board outlines are all ok, it can’t read the DRL file because it’s corrupted.

(I won’t be designing new boards on TraxMaker).

New poster here though I've been a lurker for years. So I apologize in advance for being a bit of a nitwit on some of this. I know enough to know I dont' know enough.

I ran into a very good deal on both KEF Q800DS and R800DS. I've incorporated a pair of them in my surround system as rear surrounds but I'd like to use the other drivers to make non-dipole speakers, similar to the KEF R8 speakers, and just use these as directional speakers vs the diffuse dipoles. I'd use these R8 style speakers as wall mounted not to set on top of speakers. I currently have KEF R300s, R200C, R800DS being used and trying to acquire/build proper "height" speakers for an Auro 3D setup.

However, after some research and testing I've come to find out that the drivers used in these units vary a bit from the LS50 and Q150s in that the MF/LF driver is 8ohm while the tweeter is 4ohm (nominally.) I read a post by the KEF guy (Jack something/ hyphenated name) where he talks about how they wired these dipoles. I can find it if someone is interested.

My question is, before I get to far, will I be able to build a crossover to make these work properly? I was hoping it'd be as simple as building a replica of the xover but it seems after some initial testing that I'm getting some volume reduction on the tweeter (due to the xover expecting 8ohm vs 4ohm?)

I'm very skilled with woodworking/manufacturing and have the proper tools to make quiet nice and sophisticated DIY speakers and crossovers but I very admittedly don't have the necessary knowledge. This project is meant to be an introductory course on my way to build a very nice/expensive pair of DIY towers.

As I'm looking around, and as with many DIY things, I understand it may be easier/cheaper to just buy a pair of on wall surround speakers, (as the required fidelity is very low as well,) but I'd like to give this a try, to a point. I guess I need to know if that point is going to be worth it?

Thanks in advance for the replies. Here's the pics of the drivers from the R800DS and Q800DS.

Im finally doing surgery on my BOSOZ preamp. I have a BOZ preamp that Ive been using for the last two decades that I totally love. I never had much motivation or time to finish my BOSOZ. For the last 6 months Ive got too much time on my hands

I probably built the BOSOZ in 2005 or so and i had some power supply magic smoke when i attempted to bias the circuit. Did some sketchy things back then with the seperate power supply. I finally fixed the power supply last week, so figured Id starting fixing the preamp section. I have a 4 deck 10k DACT attenuator on the output of the circuit which I dont want to change. My question is on P1 and P2 ....which I blue wired a couple of 10k pots....I want to get rid of them and repace the two with fixed resistors
Would 10kohms be the ideal value or?

Also would it be possible to change the bias pot with a fixed resistor? Without biasing this specific circuit? I was hoping that there may be some known value that would work. I want to get rid of this pot as its almost impossible to tweak easily
Thanks (ignore the white wire as this poor BOSOZ has been a storage bin for far toooo long)

Hello everyone, it's a pleasure to be here, a little story 1st then, and then onto my question, which surely will be one of a few over the next few weeks

My listening story is way over 40 years on and off, but my restoration story is really under a year.

So, back in the day, I had a pair of Heybrook HB1's, my mate had Mission 700's, and boy did I love the sound of my HB's...Life came along, work, kids and all that, until 3 years back when I thought I would "relight the fire", and bought a pair of HB1's , cheap amp, turntable etc.... On and off listening, bits of cheaper kit, until I found Tidal and it all came back to me... and thats when the HB1's driver cone surround disintegrated on boxing day 23 ( funnily enough with the Jacksons blame it on the boogie, I sure did blame it on that)..

Oops, new speakers then, what turned out to be nasty ones from Cambridge Audio, went straight back, so...fix the HB's??? And yes I did, well, one of them, the other hasn't as yet given up...nice, very enjoyable, sort of relaxing, I like this hobby.

I was in a Vinyl shop in Inverness, chatting away as you do, guy said to me, you know there is a man close to you who fixes older kit (and sells it also), I made contact with him, saying I was looking for some Ditton 66's, good luck says he, why not try some KEF 104 AB's???

So, I found some, sublime (even on a cheap amp) so, much better amp (Evo 150), Qobuz.... fashioned some stands, lots of reading, suggestion was always update the caps etc...gulp, bought them, delivered, heart in my hands I did the first one, took me an hour, very careful.... reinstalled ..... incredible, did the other (20 minutes).... I love them, and this hobby.

Last weekend, I took a trip to Edinburgh to pick up a pair of Wharfedale W3's, once home I played them very carefully with the old Amp, they sounded OK, they looked dreadful...perfect project.

Ive stripped them down, and both the tweeters and woofers are excellent , but both of the mid range (Super 5's?) have some degradation around the cone surrounds, roughly about 1cm holes in both, so how do I go about fixing these, I cant find anything as easily as I did on the HB's, I don't want to just swap them out....thats my question then, how do I repair these??

I can see Galu makes some reference here to this issue ( https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/dont-know-what-to-do.385233/#post-6996826 ), but cant find much else, nor can I see a way to direct contact Galu either (New boy error likely here)... I would appreciate any advice, thanks in advance.

I’m sure there’s a potential to design speakers according to the marketing department’s request. But can we reverse engineering down to the T/S parameter selection of the drive units? For example, assume they request for the closed enclosure bass loading with F3 at 30Hz and Fb (box resonance) at 35Hz. Is it too complicated to find the woofers that could meet that requirement? If not, could anyone advise for the above example, what should the T/S parameters of these woofers look like? Or what information will be additionally required?

This has probably come up before, but a quick search didn't help. When wiring up a kit are there "Best Practices" regarding solid core vs. stranded. Is it advantageous to use 1 type for low level signal vs speaker level vs power?

perrymarshall, I am just now rediscovering your design in this forum. I recall seeing it online a few years ago. Difference for me then to now is that I am dangerously close to retirement and “need” a project. Haven’t built a pair of speakers since my early twenties, and am an electrical engineer and a woodworking enthusiast. You mentioned if you were building again, you would not do the half-circle cutouts on the triangular stands, and that you would go with a greater width for the baffle. What do you think the optimum would be for baffle height and width? And are there any other “tweaks” that you would recommend for someone starting a build of the basic design now based on any newly available speaker components, active electronics, etc. ? Thanks in advance.

I've come across Sonarworks SoundID Reference for Speakers recently, but had to find out that this Speaker/Room adaptation software does not provide filter settings for miniDSP. This is unfortunate as the User Interface and wizzard steering looks very promising and ease of use well beyond other powerful tools.

Sonarworks responded with a "no support planned for miniDSP platforms" kind of message:

... it actually takes a partnership and a joint development effort to implement and proper export/import solution, support it long-term, and have a business model associated with it ...

Click to expand...

So, I also asked miniDSP tech support and their answer is:

... last we know, it was indeed possible to load Sonarworks inside all OpenDRC series ...

Click to expand...

I'm actually using openDRC DI, so my question goes to openDRC users:

How can I or how do you load Sonarworks filter settings into an openDRC DI?

Thanks and Regards,
Winfried

FOUND A SELLER>> I'm looking for an ACA Mini with power supply in working condition in the USA.

Looking for someone that can design parts for me from time to time PAID in EagleCAD 7, I often need a part made, or adjusted and I have not had time to sit down and figure it out for myself, Willing to pay someone that can do it for me. either by the hour or by the part.

Please message me if you can help


ZC

Hi there im new to this forum. Glad to know here is much information for my music hobby's. Im interested to electronics hobby. I hope I can learn from all of you. Thanks!
Alda

Hi All,

Just saying hello from deepest Northants, UK

Looking for some assistance with 3 way (full range) wiring, but i'll get into that later 🙂

Looking forward to being part of the community.

Tim

Step by step: full recap + upgrade with Audio Note Kaisei
caps and Vishay polypropylene capacitors.
P.S. The resistors R88 and R89 -IRC 1 Ohms 1W, generate too much heat , the new resistors are CPF21R0000FKE14 Vishay DALE Metal Film Resistors -1 Ohms 2 W.

​

Living in Denmark working as independent IT consultant. I have a high interest in technic incl. audio.
I especially find it interesting to build audio solution with cheap class-d amplifiers.

. I am a (non practicing) Electronics Engineer .I am here to discuss my interest in audio electronics. I am interested in analog audio systems.

Hi I have a KICKER ZX1000.1 on the bench,
The amp was cycling in protect mode, the red led would illuminate every second.

I found one of the output transistors had zero resistance on all legs so I pulled it and tested it off the board and same result.

The amp now powers up without going into protection.

The transistor is an IRFP264N, there are 4 in total, should I replace all 4?

Thanks in advance

This is a great Sony four-channel reel-to-reel. It needs repair. What I can tell is that many functions are functional, and the motor drives are working, but it definitely needs to be repaired. Otherwise, cosmetically, it is in great shape. Asking $ 250. Only local pick up in Los Angeles, Calabasas area.

I recently acquired a Sony 227ESD CDP from Germany via eBay.

Although the player initially worked it now refuses to track discs most of the time.

I've been pulling my hair out over the last couple of weeks trying to diagnose the problem and tonight after removing and examining the transport carefully I finally found the problem.....and it's not good news. 🙁

The KSS-151A uses a linear motor for the tracking and I've found that the plastic guide rails are cracked/fractured in several places. As the optical pick-up unit tries to slide of this rails it catches on the cracks and and prevents the laser from tracking properly.

In the photos below you can just see the fracture lines.





I wonder what has caused this? Ageing of the plastic? Mechanical damage in transit? The wrong lubricant? Has anyone seen this problem before?

If anyone has a KSS-151A with a dead laser they would let me have/buy for parts I'd be very grateful.

Any experiences here with this tube? Looks like decent triode curves. I am thinking of trying it on a build. As input gain and driver. Any opinions?

I'm listing a TDA1541A S1 Crown that I purchased five years ago from Europe. The chip was NOS from a tube. I have three of these chips and this is just sitting on a shelf as I probably will never use it. Tested in my D3 distinction dac project.

I will ship the chip anywhere in the world, insured for $250 USD. It will be shipped in a hard plastic case inside of a static bag. Also, I will test the chip again before shipment.

There is no warranty nor is there a return (just as their were non for me when I purchased it), however, my standing on this forum for 20 years and my word is what you have.

Thank you for looking,

Regards,

Greg

I’m working on a 6sl7 front end, and with the extremely low current i can’t use the normal 10 M 45 that I would in most cases. B+is around 360 V, with 100k plate resistor. I have a bunch of the 2sk2700 fets that were used in the first tubelab se, can I just use the follower section without the CCS? Any problems I should be aware of?

PCBs and modules for high quality AD797 MC phonostage

I have few more PCbs for this phonostage.This is one of the best DIY phonostage for LOMC designed by Ak member Hypnotoad, also very cheap to build. Here is the thread AD797 Phono Stage Build and Help Desk Thread | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums



Phonostage and power supply modules



Phonostage PCB $12
Power supply PCB $8
Shipping $6 by Registered post

Phonostage module including all 4 opamps $100
Power supply module $20
Express shipping $25 by UPS/DHL

Regards
Sachin

Hello!

I am simply here to get involved with speaker design, mainly in headphone work but later loudspeakers for myself.
I am from Ireland have have a good amount of experience in headphone design and acoustic structures, so I think now is the time to make my own from scratch.

Hope all is well for you fellows!